Bearded dragons as pets: Difference between revisions
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{{Taxobox |
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| name = ''Pogona'' |
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| image = Bearded dragon Ryuu.jpg |
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| image_width = 200px |
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| image_caption = [[Eastern Bearded Dragon]] (''Pogona barbata'')| regnum = [[Animal]]ia |
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| phylum = [[Chordate|Chordata]] |
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| classis = [[Reptile|Reptilia]] |
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| ordo = [[Squamata]] |
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| subordo = [[Iguania]] |
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| familia = [[Agamidae]] |
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| subfamilia = [[Agaminae]] |
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| genus = '''''Pogona''''' |
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| subdivision_ranks = Species |
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| subdivision = |
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''[[Pogona barbata]]''<br> |
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''[[Pogona henrylawsoni]]''<br> |
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''[[Pogona microlepidota]]''<br> |
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<!-- ''[[Pogona minima]]''<br> redirects to P. minor--> |
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''[[Pogona minor]]''<br> |
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''[[Pogona mitchelli]]''<br> |
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''[[Pogona nullarbor]]''<br> |
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''[[Pogona vitticeps]]'' |
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}} |
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'''Bearded Dragon''' is the common name for any [[agamid]] [[lizard]] in the genus '''''Pogona'''''. They are native to [[Australia]]. Bearded Dragons are popular exotic [[pets]] in many places, notably the species ''[[Pogona vitticeps]]'', the Inland or Central Bearded Dragon. These pets are also affectionately called "Beardies" by those who breed or raise them. |
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They are a popular breed among children, because of their friendly and calm nature. |
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== Characteristics == |
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{{Copied howto}} |
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Bearded Dragons have broad triangular heads and flattened bodies, with adults reaching approximately 18 to 24 inches head-to-tail. They were first discovered by Philip Martinez in 1854 <ref>{{cite web |title=Caring for an |
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Australian Bearded Dragon |author= K. W. Tosney |year= 2004 |month= 01 |accessdate= 2008-02-06 |url=http://www.bio.miami.edu/ktosney/file/BDcare.html#Anchor-General-14210}}</ref>. When threatened, they will expand a spiny pouch under their jaw and turn it black, as well as inhale air and puff up to make them appear larger. The pouch resembles a [[beard]], lending the animal their name. Males are often slightly larger than females, with a broader head in proportion to their bodies, but females are often slightly more heavily set. Bearded Dragons have a distinctive series of lateral spines (specialized [[Scale (zoology)|scales]]) radiating horizontally from the head to the base of the tail. Their color ranges from light tan to dark brown, depending on their native soil, often with highlights of black, brilliant red, or gold, and can change somewhat depending upon their internal condition. Some captive populations have been [[Selective breeding|selectively bred]] for more brilliant colorations. As juveniles, they are semi-[[arboreal]]. As adults, they are more terrestrial, but will climb to bask and search for prey. Bearded Dragons can occupy a large range of habitats from the [[desert]] to dry [[forests]] and [[scrubland]]s <ref name=AnapsidBD>{{cite web |title=Dragons Down Under: The Inland Bearded Dragon |author= Melissa Kaplan |date= 2007-04-19 |accessdate= 2008-02-06 |url=http://www.anapsid.org/bearded.html}}</ref> |
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[[Image:Bearded Dragon showing beard.jpg|thumbnail|An [[Eastern Bearded Dragon]] displaying its beard]] |
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All species are from [[Australia]], but they have been exported worldwide and bred successfully in captivity. In the wild, the various species are widely distributed throughout different regions of Australia. Bearded Dragons live about 10-15 years with proper care in captivity, though some can live up to 20 years old<ref>{{cite web |title=Bearded Dragons |accessdate= 2008-02-06 |url=http://www.burkesbackyard.com.au/factsheets/Others/Bearded-Dragons/364}}</ref>. |
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Bearded Dragons are opportunistic [[omnivore]]s. Many Bearded Dragon habitats are dry and sparsely vegetated, so food may often be difficult to find. As a result, Bearded Dragons are capable of subsisting on a wide variety of food sources. |
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Their stomachs are large enough to accommodate large quantities of food. At a young age, Bearded Dragons will not to eat as much vegetation as their adult counterparts. As a Bearded Dragon ages it will eat less animal matter and more plants, leveling off at around an 80% plant and 20% animal diet<ref name=DaichuBD>{{cite web |title=Frequently Asked Questions |author= Robert and Victoria Daichu |date=2007-05-26 |accessdate= 2008-02-06 |url=http://www.dachiu.com/care/abeard.html}}</ref>. |
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Due largely to their animated and highly social behavior, mild temperament, willingness to breed in captivity, flexible diet, and robust nature, Bearded Dragons are popular among reptile enthusiasts as [[pets]]. |
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=== Feeding === |
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Bearded Dragons are omnivorous, requiring both insects and vegetable food. A typical diet for captive Bearded Dragons includes leafy greens and vegetables, and regular meals of feeder insects. |
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Popular feeder insects include [[cricket]]s, [[roach]]es, [[locust]]s, [[silkworm]]s, [[hornworm]]s, [[butterworm]]s, and [[phoenix worm]]s<ref>{{cite web |title=Bearded Dragons Care Sheet |author= Jeremiah Jaeger |accessdate= 2008-02-06 |url=http://www.beardeddragon.org/articles/caresheet/?page=3}}</ref>. The [[mealworm]] has a fairly hard [[chitin]] (exoskeleton) and is generally low in the "chitin to meat" ratio, making it less nutritious than other feeder insects<ref>{{cite web |title=Caring for an |
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Australian Bearded Dragon |author= K. W. Tosney |year= 2004 |month= 01 |accessdate= 2008-02-06 |url=http://www.bio.miami.edu/ktosney/file/BDcare.html#Anchor-Insects-23240}}</ref>. Chitin is hard enough that large amounts of it can cause impaction in the Bearded Dragon's digestion system, and can lead to death, especially in younger animals. [[Waxworm]]s can be given as a treat, but no more than 1 or 2 a week in most cases as they are extremely fatty, and in some cases very addictive. The rule of thumb on feeder insects is that the food fed to the animal must not be larger than the space between the eyes; feeding something larger could make it hard for the animal to swallow the food and can lead to the aforementioned fatal impaction<ref>{{cite web |title=Impaction in Bearded Dragons |coauthors= Alex Sleeis and Denise Bushnell |date= 2006-07-07 |accessdate= 2008-02-06 |url=http://www.beardeddragon.org/articles/impaction/}}</ref>. |
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Before being offered to the Dragon, it is recommended that insects be fed for at least 24 hours in advance, or "[[gut loading|gut-loaded]]" to increase their nutritional value. Commercial cricket foods for gut-loading are available, but many household food items may be used instead, such as a half a slice of potato or carrot. It is essential that most of the dragon's food [esp. livefood] first be dusted with a phosphorus-free commercial calcium supplement, as Bearded Dragons are susceptible to [[Metabolic Bone Disease]], or MBD<ref name=Nutrition /> if their calcium and vitamin D3 requirements are not met .A vitamin supplement should also be applied, but no more than twice a week as overuse can also cause health problems.<ref>{{cite web |title=Caring for an |
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Australian Bearded Dragon |author= K. W. Tosney |year= 2004 |month= 01 |accessdate= 2008-02-06 |url=http://www.bio.miami.edu/ktosney/file/BDcare.html#Anchor-Supplements-35326}}</ref>. |
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A significant portion of the Bearded Dragon's diet may consist of leafy greens. Dragons enjoy many types of readily available greens, including: [[collard green]]s, spring greens, [[escarole]], [[turnip|turnip greens]], [[mustard|mustard greens]], [[romaine lettuce]], [[dandelion|dandelion greens]], [[parsley]], [[kale]], and [[carrot|carrot tops]]<ref name=Nutrition>{{cite web |title=Nutrition Content |author= Beautiful Dragons |accessdate= 2008-02-06 |url=http://www.beautifuldragons.503xtreme.com/Nutrition.html}}</ref>. It is also recommended that this portion of the Dragon's diet be supplemented with a variety of finely diced [[fruit]]s, [[vegetable]]s, and [[legume]]s. Feeding a mixture of these plants ensures a wider variety of nutrients, and variations in texture to aid digestion. |
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==Poisonous/Dangerous Foods== |
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Insects caught in the wild are not recommended, due to the increased risk of [[pesticide]] exposure and parasites. [[Fireflies]] and all other animals with [[Bioluminescence|bioluminescence chemicals]]<ref>{{cite web |title=Two Cases of Firefly Toxicosis in Lizards |coauthors= Michael Knight, Richard Glor, Scott R. Smedley, Andres Gonzalez, Kraig Adler, and Thomas Eisner |accessdate= 2008-02-06 |url=http://www.nbb.cornell.edu/neurobio/eisner/pogona.html}}</ref> can be fatal to Bearded Dragons. |
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[[Avocado]] and [[Rhubarb]] are lethal to Dragons as well as birds. Some greens, such as [[iceberg lettuce]] is mostly water and can cause fatal diarrhea. [[Kale]], [[cabbage]], and [[spinach]] contain high oxilates which bind to calcium and in large amounts can lead to metabolic bone disease. |
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=== Housing === |
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A 20 gallon (75 litre) [[aquarium]] is the bare minimum for a [[juvenile]] Bearded Dragon, however they will fast outgrow this within their first year. For an adult the minimum is a 40 gallon (150 litre) breeder, though many breeders recommend a 55 gallon (200 litre) breeder instead<ref>{{cite web |title=Bearded Dragon Stats and Facts |coauthors= Drs. Foster & Smith |accessdate= 2008-02-06 |url=http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=17&cat=1796&articleid=2730}}</ref>. This allows the Dragon ample space to turn around, lie down, and run to and fro as it chooses. |
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Bearded Dragons bask most of the day, absorbing the heat they need to digest their food. It is important that there are at least one or two good basking spots in the Dragon's [[habitat]]. Rocks are preferable to logs as they hold heat better, though logs can also provide stimulation for the animal as they will climb up and down it<ref name=DaichuBD />. Any item taken from the outside must first be boiled or baked, however, to remove contaminants. Electric or battery powered heating devices such as HotRocks™ can cause stomach burns if they malfunction, so they are not widely recommended<ref>{{cite web |title=Hot Rocks and Reptiles |author= Melissa Kaplan |date= 2007-04-19 |accessdate= 2008-02-06 |url=http://www.anapsid.org/hotrock.html}}</ref>. A habitat should also include something the Dragon can hide under. |
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Bearded Dragons also need proper lighting. A [[UVB]] light is needed, with two options being available, [[Fluorescent]] strip bulbs or [[Mercury-vapor lamp|mercury vapor bulbs]]. These bulbs will need to be kept within 8 inches of the basking spot so your lizard can properly absorb the rays and need to be replaced every 6 months<ref name=LiteHeat>{{cite web |title=Lighting and Heating for Reptiles |author= Melissa Kaplan |date= 2007-04-19 |accessdate= 2008-02-06 |url=http://www.anapsid.org/liteheat.html}}</ref>. Without a good UVB the Dragon will develop MBD and not eat as much. A Dragon needs between 12 and 14 hours of daylight; much less or more causes problems with their circadian rhythms and makes them lethargic and sick<ref>{{cite web |title=Caring for an Australian Bearded Dragon |author= K. W. Tosney |year= 2004 |month= 01 |accessdate= 2008-02-06 |url=http://www.bio.miami.edu/ktosney/file/BDcare.html#Anchor-Lighting-44867}}</ref> |
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For heating, Bearded Dragons need bright white light during the day. At night a red light can be used, as it will provide heat and you will be able to see it, but it will not disturb the animal's sleep cycle. Under tank heaters are one option for keeping the tank warm at night when the heating lamp is off, while ceramic heat emitters are another<ref name=LiteHeat />. |
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Temperature is one of the most important health factors. A Dragon needs the correct temperature to digest, so a good [[thermometer]] is essential. Analog, Round, stick-on, and other non-digital thermometers do not measure basking temperature properly as they do not measure the actual basking spot, just the temperature of the air or glass. A digital thermometer with a probe or an [[Infrared thermometer]] are two recommended [[Digital thermometer#Types of thermometers|types of thermometers]]<ref>{{cite web |title=Bearded-Dragons.com Caresheet |date=2006-05-05 |accessdate= 2008-02-06 |url=http://bearded-dragons.com/boards/index.php/topic,3164.0.html}}</ref>. Temps need to be 105F-110F [basking spot] during day and 60F-80F at night (the higher end of this range for babies, the lower portion of the range for adult Dragons). If the dragons do not receive the proper heat they will become lethargic, and they will eat less. Eventually the lack of proper heating will become fatal. |
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[[substrate (aquarium)|Substrate]] is another very important factor in keeping a healthy Dragon. Babies and Juveniles are particularly at risk of impaction and are often kept on paper towels, as they are easy to dispose of and clean up after, and there is no risk of the baby ingesting substrate. Tile is another popular choice, as is reptile carpet. As the Dragon gets older it can be put on finely sifted play sand. Calcium sand is often used and widely reccomended, but is also reported to be a cause of impaction due to 'clumping' in the gut if ingested, while play sand will pass straight through a well fed individual. Walnut shells, wood chips, and anything else of that sort are never to be used. They are large, with sharp edges, and can be swallowed. They are not digestible, however, and will swell and clog the gut, causing a very painful and potentially fatal impaction<ref name=DaichuBD />. |
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=== Personality === |
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Bearded Dragons are known, according to many owners, to be very docile and trusting, yet at the same time, outgoing and curious lizards.They may make faint clucking noises. If you scare them they may make a loud hissing sound. Their behaviour includes body language such as head bobbing and leg waving. It is not recommended to try and arouse this behavior, however, as it is territorial in nature. |
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''[[Pogona vitticeps]]'' is one of the more docile and friendly lizard species in the lizard pet trade. Unlike many large [[Monitor lizard]]s and smaller lizards like [[Anole]]s, Bearded Dragons tend to enjoy human contact and to be handled by humans.Although they may assume a defensive position, they rarely bite, scratch, or otherwise attack a human. They are likable and get the owner lots of attention, especially if you take them out and about for a walk (providing it isn't too cold) in fact civilians have been known to stop people and take pictures. As a result, Bearded Dragons are a suitable reptile for a house with children provided hands are washed after contact. |
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Bearded Dragons are territorial and despite their like for human contact they will maim or kill a tank mate when an argument arises. Pairs of any gender combination have been known to result in severe, and in some cases death of one or both of the pair.<ref>{{cite web |title=BeardedDragon.org topic |accessdate= 2008-03-23 |url= |
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http://www.beardeddragon.org/bjive/viewtopic.php?f=45&t=74666&st=0&sk=t&sd=a}}</ref>. It is near impossible to keep a pair or group together for an undetermined amount of time, while many owners claim not to see any fighting or dominant behavior as in the above reference it only takes one fight to end in tragedy, the male in the above reference had to have his hemi-penes amputated from lack of storage room in the bitten tail. It has been said that two females could be housed together in the proper environment, but no one knows exactly what this environment is, or how long the peace will last before a fight could break out. |
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Dragons may [[brumate]], a period similar to a mammal's hibernation<ref>{{cite web |title=Brumation (hiberation) in the Australian Bearded Dragon |author= K. W. Tosney |year= 2004 |month= 10 |accessdate= 2008-02-06 |url=http://www.bio.miami.edu/ktosney/file/BDbrumate.html}}</ref>. The animal will become lethargic and not come out that often, eating less, if anything, for a period of two to three months. It's often a concern to those unfamiliar with it, as lethargy and lessened appetite usually mean illness. When brumation starts to happen, it's suggested to go to a [[veterinarian]] with a fresh fecal sample for inspection for illness and parasites. |
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=== Breeding === |
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Due to selective breeding, Dragons have begun to exhibit rather distinctive colorations. These "designer" Dragons display brilliant hues of pastel oranges, violets, and reds<ref>{{cite web |title=Bearded Dragon Gallery |author= Robert and Victoria Daichu |accessdate= 2008-02-06 |url=http://www.dachiu.com/gallery/pix.html}}</ref>. The most popular morph thus far has been the "Sand Fire" Dragon, which exhibits a bright red-orange color with black stripes. A more unusual sub-breed is the leatherback, and another of that is the silk-back. These Dragons have reduced or no scales respectively, creating a smoother appearance<ref>{{cite web |title=Upcoming Projects for 2007 |author= Robert and Victoria Daichu |accessdate= 2008-02-06 |url=http://www.dachiu.com/projects.html}}</ref>. Much like designer dogs, the price tags of these customized pets are many times the price of Dragons without a specific morph. |
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To sex a Dragon, one must hold the tail up and look above the [[cloaca]], also known as the vent. Males have two [[Hemipenis|hemipenal]] bulges just above it, creating an [[hourglass]] shaped indent. Females have only a single lump. Males are also known to have large femoral pores along the inner thigh<ref>{{cite web |title=Sexing Your Bearded Dragon |accessdate= 2008-02-06 |url=http://www.beardeddragon.org/articles/sexing/}}</ref>. Dragons can lay up to 50 eggs a clutch<ref>{{cite web |title=Egg laying in the Australian Bearded Dragon |author= K. W. Tosney |year= 2004 |month= 10 |accessdate= 2008-02-06 |url=http://www.bio.miami.edu/ktosney/file/BDeggs.html}}</ref>. Females have been known to eat the eggs that were not fertilized or stillborn. |
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=== Diseases === |
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When provided with the proper habitat, temperatures, and [[UVB]] lighting, Bearded Dragons are hardy lizards. They are also pets who do their best to hide health problems when becoming ill (as do most reptiles). This is probably an instinctual behavior, since a sick Dragon in the wild would probably not live long. The most common diseases include [[Agamid adenovirus]], [[mites]], terminal ingestion, thermal burns, [[calcium deficiency]], [[impaction]], hypovitaminosis A, [[respiratory infection]]s, [[dehydration]], [[stomatitis]], internal parasites, [[coccidia]] and other parasites, [[dystocia]] (egg binding), and MBD<ref name=DaichuBD />. |
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==Gallery== |
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<gallery> |
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Image:Central Bearded Dragon.jpg|Central/Inland Bearded Dragon at the [[Henry Doorly Zoo]] |
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Image:Defensive bearded dragon.jpg|From central NSW. |
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Image:Pogona vitticeps2.jpg|Pogona vitticeps |
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Image:JuvenileBeardedDragon.jpg|Young Pogona vitticeps |
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Image:Beardie_(800_x_600).jpg|Bearded Dragon picture |
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Image:Bearded dragons indy zoo.jpg|Group of Inland Bearded Dragons basking on a rock at the [[Indianapolis Zoo]]'s desert exhibit. |
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Image:Bearded_dragon_pile.jpg|Two domestic Bearded Dragons basking on a log |
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Image:Bearded Dragon gape.jpg|Female Bearded Dragon gaping to dissipate excess heat while basking |
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Image:Beardeddragon.jpg|A male bearded dragon basking under a lamp, enjoying the heat. |
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Image:Bearded-dragons-at-Brisbane-Forest-Park.jpg|Bearded dragons at [[Brisbane Forest Park]] in [[Queensland]], [[Australia]] |
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Image:Bearded Dragon at Indianapolis Zoo.JPG|At the [[Indianapolis Zoo]] |
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</gallery> |
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==References== |
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{{Reflist}} |
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==Further reading== |
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*{{cite web | url = http://www.smuggled.com/pogona1.htm | title = Pogona - From an Australian Perspective. | accessdate = | author = Raymond Hoser | authorlink = | coauthors = | date = June 1997 | work = | publisher = Author's website | quote = paper from REPTILIAN MAGAZINE (UK), 5 (2), , pp. 27-41 (Online version) }} |
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==External links== |
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{{wikispecies-inline}} |
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{{Commons-inline}} |
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* [http://www.bio.miami.edu/ktosney/file/BDcare.html bio.miami.edu/caresheet] |
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* [http://bearded-dragons.com/boards/index.php bearded-dragons.com/forum] |
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* [http://www.beardeddragon.org beardeddragon.org] |
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[[Category:Agamidae]] |
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[[Category:Reptiles of Australia]] |
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[[Category:Pet reptiles]] |
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[[de:Bartagamen]] |
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[[es:Pogona]] |
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[[fr:Pogona]] |
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[[ja:アゴヒゲトカゲ属]] |
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[[no:Skjeggagamer]] |
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Revision as of 17:48, 30 March 2008
this sucks, mine died