DescriptionHakama assembly 3-panel divided modern wide loom width.svg
English: This file shows how a divided hakama (Japanese-style trousers) is assembled from modern wide bolts of cloth. Reverse of cloth is a darker shade for clarity. Shown is a symmetrically-pleated three-panel hakama, thus named for using cloth equivalent to three panels of the traditional narrow loom width (~35cm, or 40-45cm before the Edo period) for each leg. There are many variants; apart from panel number, some hakama are undivided, some have a square gusset in the groin, some have deeper or shallower side openings (matadachi), the width of the himo (waist ties) varies, the number and position of the pleats varies, there are narrow and drawstring cuffs, some have a koshi-ita, etc.. Modern hakama are often made of a permapleated polyester blend; traditional materials include linen and silk. A stiff fabric holds pleats well and allows fairly large stitches. Depending on proportions, the offcuts may be utilizable to make pockets or purses (neither offcuts nor pockets are part of the traditional cuts). This is a schematic drawing, not rigorous documentation; it does not attempt to accurately convey the detail of any garment. It is fairly similar to some hakama used for modern martial arts, but those are usually asymmetrically pleated and have a koshi-ita.
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