Jules Jacot-Guillarmod

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Jules Jacot Guillarmod riding a horse during expedition to K2

Jules Jacot-Guillarmod (24 December 1868 – 5 June 1925) was a Swiss doctor, mountaineer and photographer. He was born in La Chaux-de-Fonds. He participated in the 1902 expedition to the K2 [1] and the 1905 expedition to the Kanchenjunga. He related these expeditions in his book called "Six Mois dans l'Himalaya, le Karakorum et l'Hindu-Kush". He died in 1925 in the Gulf of Aden.

The K2 Expedition, which was led by Oscar Eckenstein and included besides Jacot-Guillarmod three English, two Austrians and one Swiss, was the first time Europeans had ventured so close to the treacherous mountain. The expedition reached the base of K2 in June 1902. The beauty, dangers, people, culture and lifestyles of the region were documented by Jacot-Guillarmod in many photographs.

Jacot-Guillarmod's photographs of the K2 expedition are not merely images of the mountain world but cultural records of a region that has since changed drastically. His photos, however, are popular for the landscape they show. It was Jacot-Guillarmod's photos that gave the world some of its first glimpses of K2. Jacot-Guillarmod also wrote about his experiences in his journal. It is a detailed account of the daily life of the members of the expedition. His journal entries also contain rich descriptions of the upper Indus region and its inhabitants.

K2 by Jules Jacot-Guillarmod
Members of the 1902 K2 Expedition. Jacot-Guillarmod is on the left, in the front row.

Publications

  • Journal du 1er janvier 1886 au 27 mai 1925, 74 carnets; Fonds Jacot-Guillarmod, Bibliothèque de la ville de La Chaux-de-Fonds.
  • Nouvel an à la cabane Fridolin, L'Écho des Alpes, 1895, p. 117-131
  • Au Mont-Blanc, L'Écho des Alpes, 1897, p. 249-268
  • Autour de Chanrion, Patrie suisse, n°4, 1897, p. 279-281
  • La pellotine chez les aliénés, Thèse de doctorat de Jules Jacot-Guillarmod, Lausanne, 1897
  • Album des cabanes du Club Alpin Suisse, Berne, Schmidt & Francke, 1898
  • Dans les Alpes de la Suisse primitive, L'Écho des Alpes, 1896, p. 211-217 et 335-345
  • Dans l'Himalaya, Suisse libérale, 1902, numéros 107 (9 mai), 108 (10 mai), 121 (26 mai), 122 (27 mai), 158 (8 juillet), 159 (9 juillet), 166 (17 juillet), 167 (18 juillet), 184 (7 août), 209 (5 septembre), 210 (6 septembre), 219 (17 septembre), 220 (18 septembre)
  • Un record dans l'Himalaya, Jahrbuch des Schweizer Alpen Club, n°38, 1902-1903, p. 212-227
  • Six mois dans l'Himalaya, le Karakorum et l'Hindu-Kush: voyages et explorations aux plus hautes montagnes du monde, Neuchâtel, W. Sandoz, 1904
  • Vers le Kangchinjunga (8585m), Himalaya népalais, Jahrbuch des Schweizer Alpen Club, n°41, 1905-1906, p. 190-205
  • Au Mönch (4105m) par l'arrête nord-ouest, Jahrbuch des Schweizer Alpen Club, n°43, 1907-1908, p. 364-371
  • Crampons et piolets, Jahrbuch des Schweizer Alpen Club, n°45, 1909-1910, p. 344-353
  • Au Kangchinjunga: voyages et explorations dans l'Himalaya du Sikhim et du Népal, L'Écho des Alpes, 1914, p. 389-406
  • À l'assaut des plus hauts sommets du monde, L'Écho des Alpes, 1921, p. 337-350
  • Les grottes des Dentaux, Bulletin de la Société vaudoise des sciences naturelles, n°203, 1921, p. 193-204
  • Les résultats de l'expédition de l'Everest en 1921, L'Écho des Alpes, 1922, p. 117-120
  • Esquisses topographiques du Chogori ou K2 et du Kangchinjunga (Himalaya), Bulletin de la Société neuchâteloise de Géographie, vol. XXXIV, Neuchâtel, 1925, p. 34-37.

Citations

  1. ^ Buffet, Charlie (2012). Jules Jacot Guillamot pionnier du K2. Editions Slatkine. ISBN 2832105238.

References

  • Aymon Baud, La haute Asie telle qu'ils l'ont vue. Explorateurs et scientifiques de 1820 à 1940, 2003
  • Charlie Buffet, La folie du K2, 2004
  • Charlie Buffet, Jules Jacot-Guillarmod Pionnier am K2. Entdecker und Fotograph im Himalaya, 1902-1905, 2012
  • Marcel Kurz, Fremde Berge, ferne Ziele. Das Werk schweizerischer Forscher und Bergsteiger im Ausland, 1948
  • Louis Seylaz, Jules Jacot Guillarmod, in: Les alpinistes célèbres, Henri de Segogne und Jean Couzy, 1956, p. 123-135.
  • Georges Terrier, Jules Jacot Guillarmod, médecin, alpiniste et grand voyageur (1868-1925), in: Biographies neuchâteloises tome 4 (1900-1950), Michel Schlup, 2005, p. 149-153.
  • Steve Swenson, Mountain Profile: K2, the Mountaineers' Mountain, Alpinist, 37, 2011-2012, p. 42-46.
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