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Harry's Bar (London)

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Coordinates: 51°30′33″N 0°09′05″W / 51.5093°N 0.1514°W / 51.5093; -0.1514
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Harry's Bar
Harry's Bar in January 2022
Map
Restaurant information
Established1979; 45 years ago (1979)
Owner(s)Richard Caring
Food typeItalian cuisine
Dress codeSmart
Street address26 South Audley Street
CityMayfair, London
Postal/ZIP CodeW1K 2PD
CountryUnited Kingdom
Coordinates51°30′33″N 0°09′05″W / 51.5093°N 0.1514°W / 51.5093; -0.1514
Websitewww.harrysbar.co.uk

Harry's Bar is a private members dining club at 26 South Audley Street in London's Mayfair district. It was established by Mark Birley in 1979. Birley sold the club with his four other Mayfair clubs, Annabel's, Mark's Club, George, and the Bath & Racquets Club, to Richard Caring in 2007. Harry's Bar is renowned for its Italian cuisine.

Origins

Harry's Bar is located at 26 South Audley Street in London's Mayfair district.[1] The site had been previously occupied by the wine merchants Block, Grey & Block.[2][1] The club was established by Mark Birley in 1979 and named for the famed bar of the same name in Venice founded by Giuseppe Cipriani.[3] Birley's silent partner in Harry's Bar was the American businessman James Sherwood who owned 49% to Birley's 51%.[4] Sherwood invested $575,000 to establish Harry's Bar through his Orient-Express Hotels company.[5] Birley and Sherwood's original agreement included a clause that stated that the other would have the right to buy out his partner's shares should either of them cease to act individually.[5] The clause led to a dispute between Birley and Sherwood after Birley's children, India Jane and Robin Birley, assumed the management of his clubs due to Birley's ill health.[5] Birley wrote an open letter to members stating that he "[hadn't] been well for some time and I've tried in vain for nearly a year now to persuade him [Sherwood] that Harry's Bar can only work as a family run business and not as part of a large publicly-quoted hotel group ...As a family we can't agree to his terms which involve short term performance targets that would trigger a buy-out by Orient-Express Limited in the event we fail to meet them. As you know I don't run my business like that and as my children have been brought up in the clubs they understand that we take a long term view".[5] Robin Birley said that "Harry's Bar is about spending $80,000 per annum on flowers; it's about perfectionism. We wouldn't start doing catering or opening on weekends or turning tables to make ends meet. That completely goes against the ethos of what we do".[5] In 2004 Harry's Bar made a profit of $1.8 million.[5] The Birley family bought the 51% stake of Orient-Express Hotels in Harry's Bar for £5.1 million in 2006.[6]

Ambience

The striped awnings of Harry's Bar

Birley said of Harry's Bar that he tried to create "... the essence of Harry's in Venice – a certain warmth and informality".[7] The head chef upon opening was Alberico Penati, with the menu centred around the Milan region of Italy. The decor of the club was designed by Nina Campbell in a Venetian style with furnishings and tableware imported from Italy.[8] Cartoons by The New Yorker cartoonists Peter Arno, Charles Addams and Whitney Darrow Jr. are prominently displayed among fabrics by Mariano Fortuny.[8] The restaurant has polished floorboards and a large Baccarat crystal chandelier hangs in the main room.[8] A smaller room can accommodate private diners.[8]

The club was intended to be more receptive to women diners than Birley's Mark's Club. Lawrence Goldman, wrote of the club in Birley's entry in the Oxford Dictionary of National Biography that "For thin ladies who lunched, as well as American visitors and devotees of Italian cuisine, the food and ambience were sublime. Prices were exorbitant: at one time Harry's Bar was the highest grossing restaurant per square foot in the world. Birley considered it to be his apogee".[1][9] Birley had previously opened the members club Annabel's in 1963.[4]

Membership

The membership of Harry's Bar was described shortly after opening in 1979 as consisting of a "dollop of the titled...and some of the top businessmen around town".[7] By 1990 Emma Soames felt that the " ... clientele attracted to Harry's is classy, and in some ways the place resembles the departure lounge for Concorde" and spotted Lew Grade, David Frost and Terry Wogan at lunch there on her visit and listed Lord Hanson, Alan Sugar and Gordon White as regular guests.[10] The cost of membership was £600 a year in 1990 (equivalent to £1,723 in 2023).[10] In his 1988 book The Fashion Conspiracy, Nicholas Coleridge described Harry's Bar as the perfect place to "watch designer clothes in action" with Harry's Bar being a "national park for designer labels, with Valentino's, Ungaro's, Armarni's and Saint Laurent's roaming at will in their natural habitat".[11]

In 1998 Jonathan Meades described the members of Harry's Bar as being " ... industrialists, diplomats, kings, American widows with an appetite for what the French euphemise as aesthetic surgery, film stars of the old school, dandiacal plutocrats, Mayfair smoothies and the gastronomically earnest" and noted that "Members and staff know each other, are mutually respectful and on amiable terms - there is no doubt a trace of feudalism in all this but it works to the benefit of both sides".[12] In 1989 Claire Frankel summed up the clientele as being "classy international yuppie".[8]

Prince Rupert Loewenstein persuaded Birley to allow the American singer Terence Trent D'Arby to lunch with him at Harry's Bar shortly after the launch of D'Arby's debut album in 1987. Birley quipped to Loewenstein that D'Arby had a "fine English aristocratic surname".[13] The painter Lucian Freud dined with the performance artist Leigh Bowery at Harry's Bar in late 1980s. Bowery arrived without the customery jacket and tie demanded by the dress code of the restaurant, so Freud lent him a grey scarf and Bowery borrowed a jacket from a waiter.[14]

In 2008 banker Bob Diamond hosted a $25,000 a head fundraising event for 60 guests at Harry's Bar organised by Frances Prenn which raised $2 million for John McCain's American presidential campaign. Guests included Cindy McCain, Henry Kissinger, Louis Bacon, and Russ Gercon.[15]

A Harry's Bar cookbook was published in 2005 by Harley Publishing with a foreword by Mark Birley and essays by Frederick Forsyth and Nicholas Lander.[16]

Reviews and opinions

Harry's Bar is renowned for its Italian cuisine. In 1990 Emma Soames described Harry's Bar in The Times as the "king of the High Urban school in London" contrasting its "High Urban" Italian cuisine with the newer "Tuscan Farmhouse" style as exemplified by the recently opened River Café.[10] Soames wrote that the food was "Unmistakably Italian and mostly classical, it is almost impossible to find fault with any of it (until you come to the bill)". The bill for "lunch with one bottle of wine and two glasses of pudding wine" for Soames and her guest came to £145 in 1990 (equivalent to £416 in 2023).[10]

Jonathan Meades reviewed Harry's Bar in 1998 in The Times and praised its "unflashy opulence, discretion, nothing overlooked, obsessive attention to detail" that served "some of the most exquisite cooking in London". Meades felt that Harry's Bar was "...somewhere which is wittingly outside time, place and fashion (in so far as that's ever possible). It certainly goes by its own rules, it's hermetically swaddling, an autonomous cocoon".[12]

Harry's Bar has attracted praise from the Italian fashion designers Georgio Armani and Valentino,[17][18] though Frankie Dettori said that the meal was the most expensive he had ever had in London at £1200 for four people.[19]

Sexual harassment allegations

The head chef of Harry's Bar, Alberico Penati, subjected a waitress to several months of aggressive sexual harassment while she worked there.[20] She was subsequently awarded £124,000 by an employment tribunal for unfair dismissal and sexual discrimination.[20] Penati remained as executive chef following the tribunal.[20] Penati would walk around the kitchen dressed in his underpants while making sexual remarks about women and would tell the waitress that he never surrendered "until I see the blood of my victim" and that she would have to be punished for rejecting him.[20] The chairman of the tribunal, Gordon Etherington, said that Penati had a "grossly inflated sense of his own importance" and had a "bullying and arrogant" approach to staff.[20] Penati later left Harry's Bar after it was bought by Richard Caring, stating that he preferred to "work for a family-run business not a corporation". He subsequently joined Aspinall's on Curzon Street, opening the restaurant Alberico at Aspinall's.[21]

Sale and recent history

In 2007 Birley sold his four Mayfair clubs, including Harry's Bar, to Richard Caring for £90 million.[22][23] The club is now part of the Birley Clubs owned by Caring, including Annabel's, Mark's Club, George, and the Bath & Racquets Club.[24]

A branch of Harry's Bar opened on James Street near Oxford Street in October 2018.[25] Another branch of Harry's Bar, Harry's Dolce Vita, opened on Basil Street in Knightsbridge in December 2017.[26]

Harry's Bar celebrated its 40th birthday with a party in October 2021.[27]

References

  1. ^ a b c Goldman, Lawrence (2009). Oxford Dictionary of National Biography. Oxford University Press. p. 104. ISBN 978-0-19-967154-0. OCLC 257555548.
  2. ^ Brandreth, Gyles (2006). Charles & Camilla : portrait of a love affair. Arrow Books. ISBN 978-0-09-949087-6. OCLC 68770056.
  3. ^ "When playing the game means following the dress code". The Times. No. 63383. 2 May 1989. p. 21. Archived from the original on 24 May 2022. Retrieved 19 January 2022.
  4. ^ a b "Obituary: Mark Birley". The Times. No. 69101. 27 August 2007. p. 43. Archived from the original on 24 May 2022. Retrieved 23 April 2022.
  5. ^ a b c d e f Ward, Vicky (12 October 2005). "Wild About Harry's". Vanity Fair. Archived from the original on 29 September 2020. Retrieved 29 January 2022.
  6. ^ Bantham, Matthew (14 June 2006). "Orient-Express sells stake in Harry's Bar to Birley family". The Caterer. Archived from the original on 31 October 2020. Retrieved 1 May 2022.
  7. ^ a b Anderson, Susan Heller (12 December 1979). "The London That Comes to Life at Midnight". The New York Times. Archived from the original on 26 April 2022. Retrieved 23 April 2022.
  8. ^ a b c d e Frankel, Claire (22 January 1989). "Private Enclaves For London Epicures". The New York Times. Archived from the original on 26 April 2022. Retrieved 23 April 2022.
  9. ^ "Spears 500 NHW Essentials: Bath & Racquets Club". Spear's Wealth Management Survey. Archived from the original on 30 May 2018. Retrieved 23 April 2022.
  10. ^ a b c d Soames, Emma (13 October 1990). "Beyond the trat". The Times. No. 63836. p. 23. Archived from the original on 24 May 2022. Retrieved 23 April 2022.
  11. ^ Coleridge, Nicholas (1988). The Fashion Conspiracy : A Remarkable Journey Through the Empires of Fashion. Random House. ISBN 978-1-4481-4987-2. OCLC 964663119.
  12. ^ a b Meades, Jonathan (21 March 1998). "Jonathan Meades at Harry's Bar". The Times. No. 66155. p. 244. Archived from the original on 24 May 2022. Retrieved 23 April 2022.
  13. ^ Loewenstein, Rupert (14 February 2013). A Prince Among Stones : That business with the Rolling Stones and other adventures. Bloomsbury Publishing. p. 157. ISBN 978-1-4088-2122-0. OCLC 1100701573.
  14. ^ Feaver, William (3 September 2020). The Lives of Lucian Freud: Fame 1968-2011. Bloomsbury Publishing. ISBN 978-1-5266-0356-2. OCLC 1130669108.
  15. ^ Mostrous, Alexi (12 July 2012). "The party-giver with a gift for landing guests on the generous side". The Times. No. 70623. p. 15. Archived from the original on 24 May 2022. Retrieved 25 April 2022.
  16. ^ Harry's Bar, London. London: Harley Publishing Ltd. 2005. ISBN 0-9550109-0-X. OCLC 76819137.
  17. ^ Dove, Rachel (10 December 2019). "Georgio Armani's My London". The Evening Standard. Archived from the original on 27 April 2022. Retrieved 23 April 2022.
  18. ^ Nathanson, Hannah (27 March 2014). "Valentino's My London". The Evening Standard. Archived from the original on 27 April 2022. Retrieved 23 April 2022.
  19. ^ Williamson, Charlotte (12 April 2012). "Matt Le Blanc's My London". The Evening Standard. Archived from the original on 27 April 2022. Retrieved 23 April 2022.
  20. ^ a b c d e Duff, Oliver (30 March 2006). "Waitress awarded £124,000 in sexual harassment case". The Independent. Archived from the original on 26 April 2022. Retrieved 23 April 2022.
  21. ^ "Gamble at Aspinalls". The Evening Standard. 28 September 2012. Archived from the original on 27 April 2022. Retrieved 23 April 2022.
  22. ^ Kakar, Arun (30 August 2019). "Inside the Bath & Racquets club: How to climb the world's most exclusive squash ladder". Spear's Wealth Management Survey. Archived from the original on 18 April 2021. Retrieved 23 April 2022.
  23. ^ Armitage, Jim; Hutchinson, Clare (2 May 1989). "Old enemies Richard Caring and Robin Birley square up in glitzy battle of London's clubs". The Evening Standard. No. 63383. p. 21. Archived from the original on 12 April 2019. Retrieved 23 April 2022.
  24. ^ "The Birley Clubs". Annabel's. Archived from the original on 20 January 2022. Retrieved 19 January 2022.
  25. ^ Prynn, Jonathan (24 September 2018). "Harry's Bar to open new Oxford Street site". Evening Standard. Archived from the original on 26 April 2022. Retrieved 23 April 2022.
  26. ^ Lee, Grace (December 2017). "What's On London: Harry's Dolce Vita Restaurant Opening". Country & Townhouse. Archived from the original on 24 May 2022. Retrieved 22 April 2022.
  27. ^ Duff, Oliver (7 October 2021). "Londoner's Diary: Dowden's drinks do turns into a knock, knock joke". The Evening Standard. Archived from the original on 5 October 2021. Retrieved 23 April 2022.
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