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Daniel Mazur

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Daniel Mazur

Dan Mazur is most widely known for his discovery and assistance in the rescue of Lincoln Hall, an Australian climber on Mount Everest on 25 May 2006. Lincoln Hall had been 'left for dead' by another expedition team the previous day at around 8700m on Everest after collapsing and failing to respond to treatment on the descent from the summit. Mazur and his fellow climbers - Andrew Brash (Canada), Myles Osborne (UK) and Jangbu Sherpa (Nepal) - in abandoning their own attempt on the summit in order to save Hall's life epitomised the noblest traditions of mountaineering. Their sacrifice was underscored by the death of a British climber; David Sharp, who passed away a few days before Hall, lower down on the same route. Approximately 40 people said they saw Mr. Sharp in distress, and walked past him, but no one rescued David Sharp, and he subsequently died. Sir Edmund Hillary, who made the first ascent of Everest in 1953 with Tenzing Norgay Sherpa, spoke out against those 40 people, and said that nothing like that would have happened in his day.

Daniel Lee Mazur was born in Illinois in October 1960. His family came from Zlotow, Poland, and Bristol, England. As a boy he spent his summers exploring the wilderness waterways of Canada by canoe with a YMCA group. He was an active Boy Scout for many years and was taught to ski by his father Robert. At age 12 his mother Mary started bringing Chinese students home to live in the house, so he learned his first words of Chinese around the dinner table and while doing chores. He first tasted the high peaks at age 17, while a student at the University of Montana, climbing Gunsight Peak and the Sperry Glacier in Glacier National Park.

When he is not climbing Everest and Himalayan Peaks, or travelling the world giving slideshows to raise money for charities such as www.MountEverestFoundation.org , he lives in Bristol, England, and Olympia, Washington. He is a member of the Alpine Club, a fellow of the Royal Geographical Society, a member of the American Alpine Club, a fellow of the Explorers Club, a member of the Mountaineers Club, holds a certification in Diesel Mechanics, and a PhD in Social Policy Analysis from the Heller School at Brandeis University. Having reached the summit of Mount Everest on an expedition together with Anatoli Boukreev in 1991, he has subsequently climbed six more of the worlds 8000m peaks and led expeditions more than 15 times to the worlds highest, including Everest, K2, Lhotse, Makalu, Kangchenjunga, Cho Oyu, Manaslu, Gasherbrum 1, Gasherbrum 2 and Shishapangma. His current employer, www.SummitClimb.com, are now in their sixteenth year of organizing expeditions to Tibet, Nepal, China, Africa, Pakistan, Tajikistan, India, and North America.

Dan has lived in England, Asia, and North America, but spends more and more of his time lecturing and raising funds for the Mount Everest Foundation for Sustainable Development in Nepal and Tibet, building hospitals, schools, and environmental projects with the low-income families who live around Mt. Everest, in both Nepal and Tibet. In 1993, ‘Climbing’ Magazine named Dan the "most successful to ever launch an expedition". As an articulate but humble Himalayan explorer and scholar, he has been active in climbing the highest peaks of the Himalaya for many years. His personal link with the region and its peoples began in 1986 when he traveled, trekked, and climbed throughout Tibet and Nepal with friends. Since then, he has been personally leading and organizing successful overland, trekking, and mountaineering expeditions for 18 years.

In a May 2003 article written by John Climaco, ‘Climbing’ magazine said: “How has Dan Mazur become one of the most successful Himalayan mountaineers?” When you meet him in person, Dan comes across as humble and unassuming. But take him to a high mountain, and Dan becomes the true and naturally gifted mountaineer that he is. His style has won him plaudits from the professional mountaineering fraternity, and it wins high praise from all who are privileged enough to climb with him on his expeditions."

Dan's written, photographic, cinematic, audio, and cyber works are featured in London Alpine Journal, American Alpine Journal, Ito-Yuki Journal of the Japanese Alpine Club, Himalayan Journal, High Magazine, Climbing Magazine, Climber Magazine, the London Independent Newspaper, the London Guardian, People Magazine, Sports Illustrated, Readers Digest, National Geographic Adventure, On the Edge Magazine, Outside Magazine, Rock and Ice Magazine, Vertical Magazine, Explore Magazine, BBC Television, NBC Television, The Discovery Channel, EverestNews Website, Mountainzone Website, BBC Radio and National Public Radio.

Climbing Record

Lincoln Hall rescue

At 7:30 AM on May 26th 2006 Dan Mazur’s team of ascending climbers, eight hours into their planned ascent to the summit up the North Ridge of Mount Everest, encountered a stricken climber at an altitude of approximately 28,000 feet. Mr. Mazur’s group consisted of Andrew Brash, Myles Osborne and Jangbu Sherpa. The team was feeling strong and healthy. They were two hours below the summit. There was no wind and no clouds. Conditions seemed perfect for climbing to the summit. When rounding a corner on the trail to the summit the team found a fallen Australian climber named Lincoln Hall. He was sitting on the trail with his jacket around his waist with no hat and no gloves, mumbling deliriously.

The group found he was suffering from symptoms of edema, frostbite and dehydration, generally incoherent in his responses to offers of help. He was alone and hallucinating; without any of the proper equipment for survival in such conditions. Apparently Mr. Hall had collapsed the previous day on his way down from the summit.

The North Ridge is an inhospitable place. Besides being at 28,000 feet, it is located along a severe ridge line, dropping off 10,000 feet to one side and 7,000 feet to the other. Oxygen and proper equipment are virtually essential.

The rescuers replaced the hat, jacket and gloves Mr. Hall had discarded, anchored him to the mountain, and gave him their own oxygen, food and water. They radioed Hall’s team, who had given him up for dead, and convinced them he was still alive and must be saved. (Mr. Hall’s team leader had called his wife the night before to tell her that Hall was dead) The rescuers arranged for Sherpas from Mr. Hall's team to ascend and help with the rescue. For four hours, Mazur’s team stayed to care for Mr. Hall. The rescuers gave up their summit to save Mr. Hall. Phil Crampton coordinated the rescue from the high camp at 26,000ft and Kipa Sherpa was the liaison to Lincoln Hall’s team at advance base camp at 21,000ft.

Extended stays at extreme altitude are risky even when planned in advance and when climbers have all the supplies they need. By using their own survival supplies to sustain Hall, they risked not having sufficient oxygen and food to support themselves on the way down, and going to the summit after so many hours spent helping Hall was out of the question. Staying there to care for Hall, they took a risk the weather would turn for the worse and inhibit their descent.

Non-Profit Companies

Dan is involved with several not for profit companies set up to help increase the sustainability of life, and the use of environmentally sustainable approaches to development in some of the poorest regions of Nepal. These grass-roots ventures are close to Mr. Mazur’s heart, as he feels a great debt to the different regions peoples and natural wonders that have brought him so much happiness throughout life. Please take the time to look at the organizations below and consider doing what you can.

Mount Everest Foundation

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Poverty has always been a very strong issue in Nepal. From planner to social researcher stress that poverty leads dejected problems within a society.

In this 21st Century, the poverty is one of the global burdens. The Nepalese professors, experts of development have pointed diversified factors contributing to poverty in Nepal. They are high population growth rate, inadequate social economic infrastructure, poor delivery of services, low productivity and inefficient use of resources, corruption, lack of political commitment, lack of pro-poor programs, prevalence of fatalism among the poor, poor management of programs, lack of dedication towards work, lack of effective research lack of monitoring mechanism etc.

In fact, there are some areas or sector like agriculture, Eco-village and Eco-tourism development which play the vital role in accelerating swift economic growth and alleviating poverty. For the movement, the proposed program has chosen Patale Village Development Committee area of Okhaldhunga District of Nepal to run different activities at first stage. The program will be based as a model for other programs in the area.


The program focuses on: 

   * Health Post
   * Sponsorship activities to the children of the area for Education
   * Training to the local people
   * Development of Pharmacy culture Concept
   * Eco-village development
   * Eco-Tourism development
   * Training, Workshop and Seminar
   * Support on vocational training in different sectors.

Mountain Fund

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Working everyday to bring health care, human rights, responsible tourism and environmental progress to those who need it most in mountain communities around the world.

Developing the capacity of grass-roots efforts in the world's mountainous regions.

The world's mountains cover about one-fourth of the planet's land surface and are home to 10 percent of its population. They are a sanctuary for an extraordinary web of plant and animal life and a source of water for all of the world's major rivers.

Yet mountain people, the guardians of these valuable mountain resources, are among the world's poorest, hungriest and most marginalized populations. Indeed, many of the more than 800 million chronically undernourished people in the world today live in mountain areas.

Mission

Our mission is to organize grassroots nonprofits and NGO's from a diversity of disciplines and support and coordinate these organizations' efforts to eliminate poverty, its causes and symptoms, in mountainous communities.

By becoming a member you are helping to support the work of all our Member Agencies. Please click on the "Donate Now" button and become a member today. Thank you for your support.

Testimonials

What a great organization you are forming. I’m impressed by the un-selfish motivation behind the project.

Andy Marker, Patagonia Marketing and Sales Director

This is awesome. It’s exactly the direction I intend to take my life in.

John Harlin (III) Editor, American Alpine Journal. Contributing Editor, Backpacker magazine

What a wonderful organization. I am truly blown away by your vision. Your website is beautiful. Your work is true. Rolling all the groups together under one hat is a smart, smart move.

Cynthia M. Adams - CEO/President GrantStation.com, Inc., Your Fast Track to Funding

Keepers Of The Water

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Who We Are

Keepers of the Waters is directed by environmental artist Betsy Damon (photo on right). She has an MFA from Columbia University and has been an internationally known performance and installation artist. In 1985, while making a paper cast of a dry stone riverbed in Castle Valley, Utah, she decided to devote the rest of her artistic life to water. She founded Keepers of the Waters in 1991 in Minnesota, USA with the support of the Hubert Humphrey Institute.

The Living Water Garden, which she designed with landscape designer Margie Ruddick, the Chengdu Landscape Bureau and many Chinese artists and designers, won the 1998 Top Honor Award from the Waterfront Center in Washington, D.C., and an award from the Environmental Design and Research Association. The park was one of the reasons for the UN Habitat Best Model Cities Award that went to Chengdu.

Ms Damon has worked for the Beijing Water Bureau designing restoration and remediation systems for rivers and wetlands, and works with community groups and cities to restore and reveal the essence of water. Betsy Damon is available for lectures, consultations, grassroots development, workshops and design charrettes. Betsy Damon's resume is available here.

For further information about Keepers of the Waters, back issues of our newsletter, support materials, videos, and slide documentation about Betsy Damon's work, contact Lonnie Feather. Keepers of the Waters Online Network is administered and edited by Lonnie Feather, an artist, working in Portland, Oregon, USA. Her art can be seen at www.lonniefeather.com.


What We Do

Keepers of the Waters is a U.S.-based non profit organization that serves as an international communications network for people actively engaged in projects that transform our relationship to water. Our mission is to inspire and promote projects that restore, preserve and remediate water sources using a combination of art, science, and community involvement.

Science is the base of information that people need to understand the issue; Art is the means of communication and inspiration; Community involvement brings in all those who wish to restore and preserve water quality. Blending these disciplines helps to make the natural process of water treatment both visible and integrated into daily life and culture.

Global water quality is dependent on each community having a sustainable water source that they know about and are responsible for. Cities all over the planet can be filled with vibrant, water and art-filled community centers, parks, schoolyards businesses and backyards that help people become intimately connected to their water sources. These projects will lead the way for fully sustainable water infrastructures, visible and integrated into our everyday lives, rather than hidden under the ground.

When people join together to solve a problem they do better than if they tried to solve it alone. Through water, we are interconnected and related to all other living things. Like water, we are one giant family, always seeking to join one another.

Betsy Damon, founder and director, has developed a series of Design Principles and Process Steps to help groups get started.

Alpine Fund

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Vision

Alpine Fund's vision is for all youth of Central Asia to become responsible, independent and positive contributors to society with an awareness and appreciation of the environment.


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Mission

Our mission is to address the challenges at-risk youth in Central Asia face by providing education and mountain experiences. We seek to strengthen their capacity for self-help by:

• Encouraging personal responsibility

• Building positive social relationships

• Teaching transferable life skills

• Promoting stable and healthy youth experiences

• Helping to build hope and esteem

• Broadening future opportunities

• Supporting healthy lifestyles

• Creating opportunities for youth to have fun and celebrate

• Educating on environmental issues


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Youth mountain experiences hold the opportunity to learn lessons and values that support these causes. They provide at-risk youth an extra chance to learn about the environment, themselves and their opportunities.



Climate Action Network - UK International Jet Travel Climate Action Network - UK

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Imagine this scenario: You are relaxing in your airplane seat, while enroute to the exotic Himalaya, dreaming about some of the challenging peaks you will be climbing. BUT, meanwhile your jet is spewing out 100s of kilograms of waste into the atmosphere. YUK. During the last 10 years, the developed countries have discussed bringing industrial, manufacturing related pollution under control. However, transport related pollution (due to cars, trucks, buses, and airplanes) has continued to increase, and there seems to be no end in sight. What is the solution? Well, the best thing to do is stay home, work in the garden, and ride your bike or walk. But, we are not ready to give up air travel just yet, and we are trying to help find solutions that make air travel more efficient and less polluting. (Daniel Mazur Photo)


In that vein, we support Climate Action Network UK. They are an umbrella organization which is working diligently toward helping world governments stick to their promises and cut down on air pollution and greenhouse gases.

For more information: 

   Climate Action Network
   49 Wellington Street
   London, WC2E 7BN
   England
   Telephone: 0171-836-1110

   web: http://www.climatenetwork.org

   email: info@climatenetwork.org


The Central Asian Institute

The Central Asian Institute, Building Schools and Hospitals for Girls and Boys in Pakistan and Afghanistan


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Pakistan Earthquake

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Please send funds to Central Asia Institute (CAI). They are very active in Pakistan on a daily basis. You can read more about CAI at http://www.ikat.org/. Thanks to some of our member's generosity, we just sent them a hefty donation, so please pitch in and help. We just read that donations to Pakistan Earthquake survivors are only three percent of the funds given to the Tsunami, so your crucial help is needed now! Thank you very much. These girls are enrolled in the village school in Pakistan. Their "school house" is a patch of dirt under an apricot tree. The teacher spends one day a week here and makes the rounds between 7 different villages. You may ask: "why do these kids need to learn to read and write?". Education, and women's education especially, has been shown to increase health rates, increase family income, reduce malnutrition and childhood mortality, and to reduce birth rates. Once educated, people are able to raise their standard of living and reduce the pressures of life being caused by lack of knowledge and over crowding. Currently, the literacy rate in this region is 15 percent for men and 5 percent for women. We continue to lend our ongoing support to the Central Asia Institute in their effort to build schools and hospitals for girls and boys and supply them with trained teachers and doctors. (Scott Darsney Photo)

Please contact the Central Asia Institute: 

   Central Asia Institute
   617 South Fifth Avenue
   Bozeman, Montana
   59715 USA
   Telephone: 406-586-8387

   email: info@ikat.org
   web: http://www.ikat.org


Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee

Finding a New or Lightly Used Computer (at least a pentium II) for Mount Everest

This year (October, 2005) we carried a new computer, by yak, to the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee (SPCC). In a recent visit to their Namche Bazaar office, we were astounded to learn that they were using an antique 486 computer to manage the extensive park data base. In addition to being ancient and creaky, the computer had become infected with a virus which had erased one of their hard drives. Files were unrecoverable, and the staff in the office was working to recreate lost data. It seems a shame that this fine agency, which is responsible for handling the environmental concerns for the region around Mt. Everest, is crippled by a lack of technology, in our modern age of high speed personal computers. We have taken it upon ourselves to keep the SPCC in new or "lightly-used" computers, which are up to the task (at least a pentium II). Here is a letter they recently faxed to us, confirming their request:

If you are unable to read the text, the above letter states: "Dear Sir, I introduce myself Ram Chandra Karki as Finance & Administrative of Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee, Namche Bazaar, Nepal. We are pleased to know Mr. Daniel Mazur, who visited us in our office, and has visited the Sagarmatha Park region and Mt Everest, Mt Lhotse, and Ama Dablam, since 1991. We acknowledge his concern about the environment and society inside the park, and efforts to maintain a clean and harmonious park for everyone. We support his quest to find us a new computer for our office. Our Current Computer is an old model 486, and cannot handle the difficult task we have of managing the park database, and internet communication. Each year we have more work to do with the same old computer. We would be deeply indebted to the generous person who through Mr. Daniel Mazur would kindly donate a new computer for our good cause. Thank you very much for your help in saving the Sagarmatha Park for future generations. We are looking forward to hear from you soon. With thanks for sincere cooperation. Yours Sincerely, Ram Chandra Karki (R.C.) Finance and Administrative Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee Namche Bazaar, Nepal"

In 2004 and 2005, our delivery of new computers has been completely successful, and we are deeply indebted to the generosity of those computer users and IT departments who kindly donated their old machines and peripherals. We are still seeking new or used machines that are at least a Pentium II. Would you know anyone who can donate a computer? Our leaders can easily bring it from Europe or America, in the luggage and yak loads to Namche Bazaar, located near Mount Everest in the Khumbu region. Please contact us with your ideas at: info@summitclimb.com


Anatoli Bukreev Foundation

A CLIMBER'S EXCHANGE PROGRAM BETWEEN KAZAKHSTAN AND THE REST OF THE WORLD


Anatoli Boukreev was a world famous climber from Kazakhstan. He climbed on Everest, K2, and Lhotse together with one of our leaders, Daniel Mazur, and was featured in the Jon Krakauer book: "Into Thin Air". He wrote his own classic book: "The Climb". A new book provides new insight into this amazing man, and is edited by Linda Wylie, and the title is: "Above the Clouds". The Anatoli Boukreev Memorial Fund operates an exchange programme for Kazakh climbers to visit Europe and the United States, and for Europeans and Americans to climb in Kazakhstan. The Memorial Fund acts to promote mutual understanding and friendship across cultures through a shared love of mountains and mountaineering, and to support the styles of high-altitude training, ascent, and environmental sensitivity that Anatoli exemplified.


To contact the Memorial Fund: web: www.boukreev.org email: info@boukreev.org Postal: POB 1170, Sandia Park, New Mexico, 87047

Sources


Press

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