Draft:Traditional clothing in Thailand

Traditional clothing in Thailand

Thailand is composed of four main regions: the North, Northeast (or Isaan), Central, and South. However, due to distinct geographical and climatic conditions in each region, customs, traditions, arts, and culture, such as the clothing styles of different groups of people, vary, giving each region its own unique identity.

The Northern region's Lanna at present day mean upper northern part of Thailand, which are Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, Phayao, Lamphun, Lampang, Phrae, Nan and Mae Hong Son. Lanna traditional dress therefore refers to the costumes of various ethnic groups Living in Lanna in the former Lanna Kingdom. The large group of people who created civilization in Lanna were the Tai Yuan, who now call themselves urban people. In addition, there are cultures of various peoples mixed together, including the Tai Lue, Tai Khoen, Tai Yai (Tai), Tai Yuan.

The Northeastern region's, or I-saan is quite hot due to most area that suit for agriculture such as rice. The dress is mostly hand woven, which is made from natural fibers such as cotton and silk. Isaan people regard weaving as a leisure activity after farming season or free from other routine work. The basement of each house will spread looms. Almost every household weaves by women of different ages will be inherited through memorization and practice from childhood both colorful patterns.

The Central region's, In the past, the central region, which even then was the place where the capital was located, had a culture of dressing beautifully, simply called “Thai dress.” Men in the old days used to wear a loincloth and a white shirt with five buttons, called ratchaprataen. As for the women, they wore a patterned loincloth, a chest-slit blouse with long sleeves, and a pleated silk blanket.  The sabai would be draped over another layer of clothing, and they also wore accessories.

The Southern region's, This mixing of cultures creates a unique Thai costume such as Batik, baba yaya and many unique cloths such as Pha yok Meung, Pha thor koh yor, Pha tor na mhuen si, Pha tor phum riang, and Pha hang kra rok. As a traditional Thai costume, the south will not wear tight dresses due to the influence of Chinese and Muslim dress that it is not popular to wear a tight dress.

Northern region part of Thailand

The fabrics woven in the northern region or the Lanna region, which includes provinces like Chiang Rai, Phayao, Lamphun, Lampang, Phrae, Nan, Chiang Mai, and Mae Hong Son, extend to certain parts of Myanmar, China, and Laos.

        Historically and geographically, the northern region has its own unique customs and cultures, particularly among the Thai Yuan or Lanna people, now commonly referred to as "city people." Originally, they were often called "Lao Pung Dam" due to their preference for tattoo patterns on their calves and abdomen. The Thai Yuan constitutes a major ethnic group mainly based in Chiang Mai, Lamphun, and Lampang provinces. Another significant group, the Thai Lue, resides in Chiang Rai, Phayao, and Nan provinces. Additionally, there are smaller ethnic groups such as the Lua, Karen, Tai Nyuan, Mon, as well as various hill tribes like the Lahu, Muser, Yao, Lisu, and many others scattered across the northern provinces.

           The traditional fabrics of the northern region, which stand out the most, are the Thai Yuan and Thai Lue fabrics. These fabrics are used for weaving blankets, bedding, and ceremonial items according to various rituals and beliefs. Particularly, the woven sarongs and women's garments of the Thai Yuan and Thai Lue communities share similar characteristics and are divided into three parts:

• Head of the sarong: The part adjacent to the waist is usually woven in white, red, or black colors to match the length of the sarong to the wearer's height and ensure durability since it's frequently wrapped tightly around the waist.

• Body of the sarong: The central part of the sarong, which determines the pattern that spreads across the body, is often woven with various colored threads, creating checkered or diamond-shaped patterns.

• End of the sarong: The bottom part of the sarong may be red, black, or woven with a special pattern called "Tin Chok," a narrow-patterned sarong preferred by the Thai Yuan, especially in Mae Chaem District, Chiang Mai Province. Tin Chok sarongs usually feature a diamond-shaped rice grain pattern at the center, with the lower edge typically red. Tin Chok sarongs worn by nobles or aristocrats are often adorned with silver or gold thread to enhance their beauty.[1]

These fabrics are intricately woven and hold cultural significance for the northern communities, reflecting their identity and heritage.

Southern region part of Thailand

The southern region of Thailand, consisting of 14 provinces, has been inhabited since prehistoric times and has evolved into important urban centers and cultural hubs, serving as a bridge between the eastern and western hemispheres. Known as the Sri Vijaya Kingdom, this ancient land has diverse ethnic groups with distinct clothing styles reflecting their cultural heritage:

Chinese-Thai Ethnic Group (Yahyah or Yonya):[2] This group consists of Chinese immigrants who intermarried with local Malay communities. Their attire blends traditional Chinese and Malay styles beautifully. Women wear intricately patterned blouses with floral motifs around the neck, waist, and cuffs, often paired with silk sarongs. Men retain traditional Chinese attire.

• Thai-Muslim Ethnic Group: Practicing Islam and influenced by Malay culture, Thai-Muslim women wear headscarves and long-sleeved blouses, often with intricate patterns or Malay-style batik. Men wear collarless shirts, long trousers, and short sarongs called "sorong." They may also wear knitted or cloth hats.

• Local Thai Buddhists: These individuals dress similarly to central Thai people, with women favoring elegant silk or cotton skirts and blouses, while men wear loose-fitting trousers and shirts made of cotton or silk. Both genders may wear white scarves or sashes for formal occasions.

• Royal Court Officials: Known for their exquisite textiles, southern Thai fabrics are highly prized for their beauty and craftsmanship. Court officials traditionally wear garments made from southern Thai textiles, especially silk sarongs and batik fabrics. Their attire often reflects European styles.

Famous Types of Southern Thai Fabrics:

• Nakhon Si Thammarat Woven Silk: Renowned for its intricate patterns and use of gold and silver threads, this fabric has been used for royal ceremonies since the Ayutthaya period.[3]

• Pumriang Woven Fabric: Crafted by Muslim artisans from Chaiya district in Surat Thani province, this fabric is known for its intricate designs.

• Koh Yo Woven Fabric: Hailing from Songkhla province, this fabric faced challenges due to sourcing materials, but saw a resurgence post-World War II.

• Pattani Woven Fabric: Pattani, historically a cosmopolitan hub, has a rich tradition of weaving, producing various textiles like "so ka ke," "mud mi," and "yarn woven gold."

• Elephant-patterned fabric, known as "phaan chang," is used for religious ceremonies in Ban Na Mun Sri, Trang province. After ceremonies, it is cut and distributed among family members or offered to temples as a token of remembrance.

Central and West region part of Thailand

In central Thailand, everyday attire for men typically includes knee-length trousers, short-sleeved shirts, and a white cloth wrapped around the waist. Women commonly wear long sarongs and short or long-sleeved shirts, similar to those in the central region. This dressing style used to be grouped together with the central region's style before the change in governance.In the past, before changes in governance, men preferred wearing "jorng krapen" (short-sleeved shirts) in white, fastened with five buttons called "ratcha prataen," and sporting short hairstyles with a central parting.[4]

Women, during the same period, favored wearing long sarongs up to their knees, draped diagonally like those from the Ayutthaya period. Their hairstyles were often in a "mahawk" style, and they adorned themselves with traditional Thai accessories.

The modern attire for men in the southern region remains comfortable and similar to earlier times. They commonly wear soft, flower-patterned shirts with button-down sleeves, comfortable trousers, and traditional southern Thai fabric sarongs, featuring intricate Thai patterns.

For girls in the current era, they wear the same sarongs as adults, with a preference for "jorng krapen" shirts for everyday wear. However, for formal occasions, they opt for long-sleeved shirts with button-down collars, adorned with beautiful floral patterns. They also wear socks and shoes. Young boys, when dressed up, don elegant outfits with long sleeves, elaborate designs, and significant jewelry. They may also style their hair into beautiful ponytails.

The "chut ratcha prataen" is a traditional Thai outfit worn by men for formal occasions, such as Thai ceremonies or as wedding attire for grooms. This outfit typically includes a shirt made of soft fabric, adorned with intricate Thai patterns, and featuring button-down sleeves with Thai motifs.

Men's everyday attire still tends to be comfortable and traditional, similar to the attire worn during previous reigns. This includes wearing "loui chai" cloth, usually white or any other cloth, draped around the waist or across the shoulder, a customary Thai dressing style from ancient times. The "loui chai" cloth is draped over one shoulder, with the fabric in front of the body equal in length on both sides. It is then tucked tightly around the body and left to hang down slightly. This style is commonly worn beneath the armpit, and the men usually carry relatively large "chai" cloth to hold boxes or their preferred tobacco pouches. As for the cloth used for wrapping around the waist, whether it is white cloth or any other type, it is tied securely around the waist and left hanging in the front. This type of dressing, known as "krapeng," is not commonly used with a sash. The "loui chai" cloth, draped over one shoulder and tied around the waist, is left hanging slightly.

Eastern region part of Thailand

North-eastern or I-saan is quite hot due to most area that suit for agriculture such as rice. The dress is mostly hand woven, which is made from natural fibers such as cotton and silk. Isaan people regard weaving as a leisure activity after farming season or free from other routine work. The basement of each house will spread looms. Almost every household weaves by women of different ages will be inherited through memorization and practice from childhood both colorful patterns.

A group of Lao people with a Originated in the Mekong River Basin and there are also Tribes such as Kha, Phu Tai, So, Sek, Kraloeng Yo, which are of great importance to the Lao Thai group in tern of the production of local Isan fabrics.

• Mudmee weaving will have 7 basic motifs which are Mee Kho, Mee Khom, Mee Bak Chan, Mee Kong Noi, Mee Dok Kaew, Mee Kho, and Mee Mai Pai. These basic motifs are adapted from nature such as leaves, different types of flowers and animals, etc.

• Khit cloth refers to cloth weaved by using a stick or poked overlapping lines to stand up at the desired rhythm, leaving and inserting threads to keep walking throughout. The spacing of the warp lines is not equal, resulting in various patterns similar to the pattern of wickerwork from the process that requires collecting wood, so this is called collecting Khit rather than weaving Khit.

• Pha Tin Sin is a Khit fabric that is woven to be used to join the bottom of the sarong because the fabric. There is a limitation in the size of the canvas of weaving. Therefore, when wearing a sarong, the cloth will be shorter. So they connect the hem of the skirt and the head of the skirt to make it the right length.

• Pha Hua Sin is the same as Khit cloth that is used on the upper edge of the sarong.

• Praewa cloth has the same weaving characteristics as Jok cloth. Praewa means a piece of silk or cotton that is woven into a piece of fabric about the length of the weaver, which is about 1.5 - 2 meters.

• Praemon cloth has the same characteristics as Praewa but smaller. It's a square shape. It is commonly used as a handkerchief and cover the hair.

• Lai Nam Lai fabric is famous for the name of Sin nan (of the North). There is a pattern of weaving in large stripes. Alternate about 3 or 4 colors at each stage and may bookmark the pattern to look more beautiful.

• The Nam Lai fabric of Isaan would have been a role model from the north. The pattern is woven parallel to the body and will alternate with the Khit pattern at intervals.

• The sarong is a panung for men. The nature of the sarong is woven with silk or cotton has a checkered pattern alternating 1 pair of small lines and a large checkered line alternating approximately 1 meter wide, 2 meters long, sewn together in a piece.

South-Isaan group is a group of Thai people of Khmer descent who are scattered and settled in Surin, Sisaket and Buriram. It is a unique weaving group especially their own colors that are different from the Thai Lao group. Mudmee cloth in the South Isaan group is woven as well, preferring to use self-made colors from only a few natural colors make the color of the pattern not as pronounced as the Thai Lao