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Chris Sharma

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Chris Sharma
File:Крис Шарма Ultimate Route 8с.jpg
Chris Sharma Ultimate Route 8с
Born(1981-04-23)April 23, 1981
Santa Cruz, California
OccupationRock Climber

Chris Omprakash Sharma (born April 23, 1981 in Santa Cruz - California) is an American rock climber.

History

Chris Omprakash Sharma[1] was raised in Santa Cruz, California[1], son of Gita Jahn and Bob Sharma[1]. He started rock climbing when he was 12[1] at the Pacific Edge climbing gym. Chris went to Mount Madonna school and attended Soquel High School for one year.

At age 14, Sharma won the Bouldering Nationals[1]. A year later, he completed a 5.14c climb, which was the highest-rated climb in the American rating system at the time[1].

Sharma then moved to Bishop, California[1], where he climbed The Mandala[1]. A boulder climb rated V12.

In July 2001, Sharma completed the route Realization, in Ceüse, France. He has since established or completed a few routes thought to be 5.15, including La Rambla and Es Pontas (a deep water soloing project in Mallorca). In 2008 Sharma climbed the 250 ft line, Jumbo Love, at Clark Mountain in California, claiming 5.15b for the grade.[2]

He recently moved to Lleida, in Catalonia[3], where he opens new routes regularly.

Notable ascents

  • Necessary Evil (5.14c) [4]
  • The Mandala (V12). Several holds have broken since Chris sent the Mandala, including the crux holds. These changes have made the problem considerably easier, and it has been widely speculated that when the problem was first climbed, the grade was closer to V14. First Ascent.
  • Realization (9a+/5.15a). First Ascent 2001. Heralded as the worlds first 5.15a upon completion. [5]
  • Dreamtime (8B+/8C). Fourth ascent. At the time considered benchmark 8C, grade consensus has since dropped to 8B+. [6]
  • Witness the Fitness (V14). First ascent. A 40ft roof problem in the Ozarks. Repeated by Fred Nicole. (Broken and maybe unclimbable.)[9][7]
  • Practice of the Wild (8C) First Ascent. Only one repeat by Tyler Landman so far.
  • Dreamcatcher (5.14d). First Ascent. A granite route on the Cacodemon boulder in Squamish, British Columbia. The route starts on a technical slab that wedges the climber against the start of the overhang. Then a dyno to a sloping rail leads to a bouldery traverse across slopers and incut crimps. The crux of the route comes at the end with a deadpoint to slopers and a jug. Repeated by Sean McColl in 2009. [8]
  • Es Pontas. First ascent, September 26, 2007 A deep water soloing line in Mallorca, Spain, it features a 7ft dyno (dynamic move, or leap) that took Sharma over 50 attempts to stick. Speculated to be around 9b. Unrepeated. [9]
  • Papichulo (9a+). First ascent. 45m route starting with four-bolt 5.13d to no-hands rest followed by continuous difficult climbing on blue limestone in Oliana, Spain. [10]
  • Jumbo Love (5.15b). First Ascent, September 11, 2008. First featured in the film King Lines as an unfinished line at Clark Mountain, this route is 250 ft long, and thought to be at least 5.15b. Sharma has called it his hardest ascent to date. In climbing it, he skipped up to three clips in a row due to the difficult sequences, which resulted in falls of 70 ft or more. Unrepeated. [2] [11]
  • Golpe de Estado (9b?). First Ascent, December 17, 2008. Golpe de Estado (Siurana, Spain) is a direct version of Estado Critico (5.14c/d), linking a 5.14d start into 5.14c climbing with a poor rest in between. Repeated by Adam Ondra March 2010.
  • Demencia Senil (9a+?). First Ascent, February 20, 2009. (Margalef, Spain). Repeated by Iker Pou Jan 2010. [12], [13]
  • French Gangster (8c/5.14b). Onsight without chipped hold, possibly harder? Originally named American Gangster but renamed after the French climber who chipped the hold. Hardest Route in China at the time.
  • Pachamama (9a+/5.15a). First Ascent.
  • Neanderthal (9b/5.15b). First Ascent, December 18, 2009.
  • First Ley (9a+) in Margalef. First Ascent. [14]

Awards

  • U.S. Bouldering Nationals[1]
  • 1999 X Games - Bouldering - Gold Medal[1]
  • 2007 Mammut Bouldering Championships[15]
  • 2008 Mammut Bouldering Championships[15]

Sponsorships

References

  1. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k Metroactive - Rock Star
  2. ^ a b Climbing - Sharma Redpoints Clark Mountain Project
  3. ^ BigUP Production - Progression
  4. ^ Mountain Zone - Necessary Evil
  5. ^ [1]
  6. ^ Climb and More
  7. ^ [2]
  8. ^ [3]
  9. ^ [4]
  10. ^ [5]
  11. ^ Jumbo Love - Big Up Productions
  12. ^ [6]
  13. ^ [7]
  14. ^ [8]
  15. ^ a b Climbing - Sharma, Puccio Win SLC Comp 
13. The Players trailer
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