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Dorothea Nicolai

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Dorothea Nicolai (born 1962) is a German costume designer, stage designer, author and curator.[1] From 2000 to 2007 and from 2012 to 2015 she was working as the "director costumes, make-up and wigs" of the Salzburg Festival.

Bio

Nicolai made an apprenticeship as a tailor in Munich. She gained first experience in the costume department of the Bavarian State Theatre under costume director Antje Lau. In 1986 she there was engaged as a costume and set design assistant. In 1986 Dorothea Nicolai began a costume study to become a cutter and costume expert at the University of Applied Sciences in Hamburg under Dirk von Bodisco and Brigitta Stamm.

Professional stations followed as a costume assistant, cutter and costume designer in France, Italy, Belgium and Austria. Among others she was a cutter at "Atelier de Costumes" under the direction of Danièle Boutard in Paris. Beginning in 1990 she obtained free engagements as a costume designer at the Bavarian Television for the documentary films "The history of the Post" and the French language class "Bon Courage".

From 1992 to 1995 she worked as a costume assistant at the Salzburg Festival. From 1993 to 1996 she was teaching costume history at the Mozarteum Salzburg. From 1995 to 1999 she was "costume supervisor“ at the Federal State Theatres costume shop for the Vienna State Opera. In this function she was responsible for the costumes of the Vienna State Opera Ballet for the classical ballet productions; furthermore she designed costumes for modern choreographies of Christine Gaigg and Nicolas Musin.

From 1999 until 2007 Nicolai was responsible as a "head of costumes, make-up and wigs" at the Salzburg Festival. In her function as "head of costumes, make-up and wigs“ she belonged to group of the seven main managers of the festival. She designed costumes for theatre, opera and ballet. In 2006 Nicolai created two costumes according to original designs from the 18th century for the Salzburg Festival for the ballet evening of Mozart "Ideomeneo Chaconne"[2] for the Chaconne from the opera Idomeneo. The costumes were reconstructed by Nicolai following period sketches from the Derra de Moroda dance archive of the University of Salzburg. Her costumes determined the aesthetics of the production and the dialogue of dance and costume. Furthermore she developed in the Mozart's year 2006 for the Salzburg Festival the costumes for the new staging of Mozart's youth works "Apollo et Hyacinthus" and "The obligation of the first commandment" in the auditorium of the old university of Salzburg. From 2001 to 2007 she taught costume history at the Academy of Applied Arts in Munich.

In 2006 she was responsible for the creation of the costumes with the revival of the opera Les Troyens at the Paris Bastille Opera; she realised the costumes according to the original designs of Herbert Wernicke who had produced the opera in 2000 for the Salzburg Festival, for direction, set and costume design.

Dorothea Nicolai was from 2008 till 2012 the costume director at the Zurich Opera House. In 2008 she designed the costumes for the creation of the children's opera "In the shade of the Mulberry Tree" by Edward Rushton; Her "consistent costumes“ were part of a mediterranean idyll into which the director Aglaja Nicolet put the staging. Nicolai created the costumes for the Zurich Opera season's opening in 2009/2010 for the Swiss première of the opera "The philosophers Stone or The Magic Island" by Emanuel Schikaneder with music of Mozart, Johann Baptist Henneberg, Benedikt Schack and Franz Xaver Gerl. She also designed costumes for several ballet evenings of the Zurich Ballet.

From 2012 to 2015 she was "director costumes, make-up and wigs" at the Salzburg Festival; she was responsible for artistic management of 80 dressers and cutters as well as about 60 makeup artists. She designed for the Salzburg Festival 2013 the costumes for a staging of the Mozart opera "The Abduction from the Seraglio" in a version for children. And she designed the Debutants' dirndl aprons with Redouté roses for the Salzburg Festival Ball at the end of August, 2013.

Since 2005 Dorothea Nicolai has been a member (since 2013 board member) of the ICOM Costume Committee (International Council of museums; ICOM) and founding member of Gtkos, an association of people working for costumes.

Costume design (Productions)

  • 2005: one plus one, choreographer: Christine Gaigg, Tanz Theater Wien.
  • 2005/2006: Jedermann, director: Henning Bock, Salzburg Festival.
  • 2006: Ersatzbank by Albert Ostermaier, world premiere, director: Henning Bock, Salzburg Festival.
  • 2006: Idomeneo Chaconne by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, choreographer: Claudia Jeschke, Mozarteum Salzburg.
  • 2006: Les Troyens, director: Herbert Wernicke, revival at Opéra de Bastille Paris.
  • 2007: Über Tiere by Elfriede Jelinek, world premiere, director: Christine Gaigg, Theater am Neumarkt Zürich.
  • 2008: Im Schatten des Maulbeerbaums by Edward Rushton, world premiere, director: Aglaja Nicolet, Zurich Opera House.
  • 2008: Sonata by César Franck, choreographer: Filipe Portugal, Zurich Opera House.
  • 2010/2011: Der Stein der Weisen, director: Felix Breisach, Theatre Winterthur 2010 / Zurich Opera House 2011.
  • 2013: DeSacre! by Christine Gaigg, director: Christine Gaigg, Josefkapelle in Vienna.
  • 2013: The Abduction from the Seraglio (for children), director: Johannes Schmid, Salzburg Festival.
  • 2014: Maybe the way you made love twenty years ago is the answer?, director: Christine Gaigg, Steirischer Herbst / Tanzquartier Wien.
  • 2014/2015/2016: La Cenerentola (for children), director: Ulrich Peter, Salzburg Festival / Teatro alla Scala.
  • 2015: Vergiss dein Pfuschwerk, Schöpfer, director: Julian Pölsler, Internationale Schostakowitsch Tage Gohrisch.
  • 2016: Hamlet (Musical), director: Sascha von Donat, premiere: Teo Otto Theater Remscheid, on tour in Germany 2016.
  • 2016: The Barber of Seville, director: Tristan Braun, Chamber Opera Munich / Nymphenburg Palace 2016.
  • 2016: The Abduction from the Seraglio (for children), director: Johannes Schmid, Teatro alla Scala 2016.

Costume design (Occasions)

  • 2013: Prom dresses of debutantes at the Opera Ball Zurich.
  • 2016: Prom dresses of debutantes at the Opera Ball Zurich.
  • 2016: iwis 1916–2016, 100th anniversary celebration (Multipart leather costume with iwis chains for the moderator).

Stage design (Selection)

  • 2016: The Barber of Seville, director: Tristan Braun, Chamber Opera Munich / Nymphenburg Palace 2016.

Exhibitions (Selection)

  • 17.04.2015 — 01.11.2015: The Paramour’s Dresses, curators: Dr. Erika Oehring and Dorothea Nicolai. The exhibit is presented as a cooperation between the Residenzgalerie / DomQuartier and the Salzburg Festival.[3]

References

  1. ^ Dorothea Nicolai Vita (Tagung Mode und Bewegung; Zurich University of the Arts; September 2011) Template:En icon
  2. ^ Ideomeneo Chaconne THE EARLY DANCE LECTURE 2012 (Dance in eighteenth century opera: Gluck, Mozart and Idomeneo by Irene Brandenburg) Template:En icon
  3. ^ Exhibition: The Paramour’s Dresses Domquartier Salzburg Template:En icon
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