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Pinkham Notch

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For other uses, see Pinkham (disambiguation).

Pinkham Notch is a mountain pass located in the White Mountains of north-central New Hampshire. The notch rises to 2,032 ft (619 m)[1], and is a center for outdoor recreation due to its location at the base of Mount Washington. Pinkham Notch is an excellent example of a glacial "U-shaped" valley, and holds several geological remnants of the ice age that created it.

Geography

Mount Washington, which forms the western wall of Pinkham Notch, holds several glacial cirques. From left to right are Tuckerman Ravine, the Ravine of Raymond Cataract, and Huntington Ravine.

The notch separates the Presidential Range, which forms the western wall, from the Wildcat Range, which forms the eastern wall. Two rivers drain the notch; the Ellis River drains the south end and is a tributary of the Saco, and the Peabody River drains the north end and is a tributary of the Androscoggin[2].

The bulk of the western slope of the notch is formed by Mount Washington. Mount Washington, at 6,288 ft (1917 m) above sea level[3], rises almost 4,000 feet from the floor of the notch[4]. A number of glacial cirques are found on this side of the notch. The Great Gulf and its tributary cirques form the largest cirque in the White Mountains[5]. South of the Great Gulf is Huntington Ravine, with a rocky, precipitous headwall renowned for its rock and ice climbing[6]. The slope then dips into the Ravine of Raymond Cataract, a non-glacial "V-shaped" valley with a notable waterfall[7]. After this comes Tuckerman Ravine, with a uniform, smoother headwall that is known for its high-quality skiing[8]. After passing the Gulf of Slides, a smaller and lesser-known cirque[9], the notch opens up and continues until Jackson.

The eastern slope of the notch consists of the Wildcat and Carter-Moriah Ranges, slightly lower than the Presidential Range to the west. The Wildcat Ridge consists of five peaks, named A, B, C, D, and E from northeast to southwest in order of height[10]. Wildcat A is the highest, at 4,422 feet (1,348 m)[11]. From the main ridge, the slopes drop very steeply, but not precipitously, to the floor of the notch. The Wildcat Mountain Ski Resort occupies the western slopes of Wildcat up to the col between "D" and "E" peaks[12]. As the notch rounds E peak, the slope becomes extremely steep, and Wildcat Ridge begins to drop to the end of the notch.

The Carter-Moriah Range lies to the north of Wildcat Ridge, forming the eastern side of Pinkham Notch all the way to the Androscoggin River[13]. From south to north, the peaks overlooking the notch are Carter Dome (4,832 ft / 1,473 m), Mount Hight (4,675 ft / 1,425 m), South Carter Mountain (4,420 ft / 1,347 m), Middle Carter Mountain (4,600 ft / 1,402 m), North Carter Mountain (4,530 ft / 1,381 m), Imp Mountain (3,720 ft / 1,134 m), and Mount Moriah (4,049 ft / 1,234 m)[14].

History

Pinkham Notch was originally a riverine, "V-shaped" valley until the Laurentide Ice Sheet shaped it into its current form, a "U-shaped" valley[15]. This shaping occurred during the Wisconsinian Ice Age, 25 - 50,000 years ago[16]. The geology of the region became greatly altered by this event; Much of the weaker rock was stripped from the region, leaving only highly-resistant mica schist[17]. As the glaciers retreated, a layer of glacial till was deposited, including several glacial erratics[18]. The most notable glacial erratic in the area is Mount Washington's Glen Boulder[19].

Recorded history began in the notch in 1827, when Hayes Copp built a homestead in the then-uninhabited area, near where the Dolly Copp campground stands today[20]. Daniel Pinkham cut the first road through the notch between 1824 and 1836, providing a link between the Copp homestead and civilization[21]. In 1851, a railroad was built through Pinkham Notch to Gorham, and a hotel, the Glen House, was constructed to accomodate passengers[22]. A bridle path was constructed from the Glen House to the summit, which was later improved into what would become the Mount Washington Auto Road. The road was completed in 1861, and tourism exploded[23].

Meanwhile, logging began in the Pinkham area. After almost total deforestation of the White Mountain region, the White Mountain National Forest was created in 1911, and the Mount Washington area was added to the national forest in 1914[24]. With the preservation of the area, emphasis shifted from logging to recreation. The Appalachian Mountain Club converted a logging camp near the height-of-land into what is now the Pinkham Notch Visitor Center in 1921[25]. The Appalachian Trail was built through the visitor center, making it an important trailhead for ascents of Mount Washington. Meanwhile, ski trails began to be constructed by the Civilian Conservation Corps on Wildcat Mountain, and the ski resort was opened in 1958[26].

Recreation

Pinkham Notch is easily accessible by New Hampshire Route 16. Numerous opportunities for recreation exist in the area.

Hiking

Lost Pond in Pinkham Notch

Mount Washington, being the highest peak in the northeast United States, is a common objective, and is often climbed from Pinkham Notch. There are numerous trail approaches from the visitor's center. Although trail distances seem short, the trip to the summit should not be underestimated; most trail approaches involve at least 4,000 vertical feet of climbing as well as an ascent of the rocky summit cone, the boulder-strewn upper slopes[27]. Weather changes very quickly, and one must be prepared for extreme conditions. The Tuckerman Ravine Trail is the most popular trail in the notch, and ascends to the summit via the headwall of Tuckerman Ravine[28]. The Huntington Ravine Trail is widely considered the most difficult trail in New Hampshire, and makes its way up the precipitous headwall of neighboring Huntington Ravine, where there are several rock climbing opportunities[29] .

On the other side of the notch, the Wildcat Range is a popular objective. The 5 summits can be reached via the Wildcat Ridge Trail; the first 2 miles are extremely difficult, and require skill on short, yet exposed, rock scrambles[30]. This part of the trail is frequently bypassed by following the ski area's Polecat Trail to the summit of D Peak[31].

There are also less challenging hikes that are equally scenic, yet better suited for families with young children. Popular objectives include Glen Ellis Falls, a waterfall on the Ellis River, and Square Ledge, with an impressive view of Mount Washington for modest effort[32].

Skiing

The Wildcat Range, as seen from Tuckerman Ravine, forms the eastern slope of Pinkham Notch.

The area also has many opportunities for both alpine and nordic skiing. The bowl of Tuckerman Ravine is famous for its extremely steep backcountry skiing[33]. Long lines are common during the peak spring-skiing season of April and May. Wildcat Mountain offers groomed ski trails and lifts, and is a better choice for less-experienced skiers. The centerpiece of the ski-area is the gondola, which runs winter and summer, and offers views of the Presidentials with no expended effort[34].

For nordic skiing, Great Glen Trails offers a large, groomed trail system that also includes the lower half of the Auto Road [35]. Several warming huts are scattered around the trail system, including scenic Great Angel Cabin, with views of the Great Gulf and surrounding peaks[1]. Great Glen also permits biking on the trails during the summer, and is the only mountain bike facility in the notch. Another extensive cross-country trail system exists in the town of Jackson[2].

Fishing

The cold, fast streams that flow through Pinkham Notch are ideal for trout[36]. Popular spots include the Peabody and Ellis Rivers.

See also

References

  1. ^ USGS 7.5 Minute Topographic Map Series: Mount Washington, Stairs Mountain, Carter Dome, Jackson Quadrangles
  2. ^ USGS
  3. ^ Daniell, Gene, and Smith, Steven D. White Mountain Guide. 27th ed. AMC Books, 2003. ISBN 1-929173-22-9. p9
  4. ^ USGS
  5. ^ Daniell and Smith 11
  6. ^ Randall, Peter. Mount Washington: A Guide and Short History. University Press of New England, 1974. ISBN 0-87451-089-9. p138
  7. ^ Daniell and Smith 11
  8. ^ Randall 131
  9. ^ Daniell and Smith 11
  10. ^ Daniell and Smith 384
  11. ^ USGS
  12. ^ [History of Wildcat Mountain Ski Resort]. Wildcat Mountain. 2001. Retrieved 9 Sept 2006
  13. ^ Daniell and Smith pp 384,385
  14. ^ Daniell and Smith 385
  15. ^ Randall 115
  16. ^ Alden, Peter and Cassie, Brian National Audubon Society Field Guide to New England. Chanticlear Press, 1998. ISBN 0-679-44676-1. pp 18-19
  17. ^ Randall 115
  18. ^ Randall 115-116
  19. ^ Daniell and Smith 29
  20. ^ Randall 9
  21. ^ Randall 9
  22. ^ Randall 12
  23. ^ Randall 15
  24. ^ Randall 16
  25. ^ Randall 142
  26. ^ Wildcat Mountain
  27. ^ Daniell and Smith 3
  28. ^ Daniell and Smith 20-21
  29. ^ Daniell and Smith 24-26
  30. ^ Daniell and Smith 389-391
  31. ^ Daniell and Smith 390
  32. ^ Daniell and Smith 11 and 432
  33. ^ Randall 131
  34. ^ Wildcat Mountain
  35. ^ Daniell and Smith 6
  36. ^ Randall 129

Further Reading

  • Daniell, Gene, and Smith, Steven D. White Mountain Guide. 27th ed. AMC Books, 2003. ISBN 1-929173-22-9.
  • Randall, Peter. Mount Washington: A Guide and Short History. University Press of New England, 1974. ISBN 0-87451-089-9.
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