Demitoilet
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 This image from 1800 shows an early example of the demi-toilet style dress. The mixture of formal and casual dress found its current form in the work of Chanel in the 1920s. | |
| Type | Dress |
|---|---|
| Manufacturer | Coco Chanel first displayed the demi-toilet for Vogue. |
| Introduced | 1800 |
Demi-toilet refers to the style of dresses based on a small skirt that can be worn on formal occasions or in daily life. It is different from full dresses such as evening dresses, dress suits, and wedding dresses due to having a skirt length of five centimetres below the knee, unlike other full-length dresses. The demi-toilet style is suitable for a simple, casual look. For example, lace could be added to the bottom of the dress when attending banquets or decorate with flowers for an afternoon tea. This kind of dress is lightweight and comfortable, and it is suitable for many ceremonial occasions, including cocktail parties, birthday parties, business meetings, dates, vacations, weddings and so on. It used to serve as a symbol of reputation when well-designed dresses and luxurious accessories directly represented one's elevated status and authority.
Evolution process
In the 1920s, demi-toilet first appeared at wine tastings and was described as a skirt at that time. It was a fashionable daytime outfit with long, loose gem-coloured skirt straight to the knee and collocated by a small-cap, gloves and a small handbag. In 1926, Gabrielle CoCo·Chanel first displayed this skirt on VOGUE and aroused public attention on a black dress to a great extent. This dress has only a small amount of diagonal decoration. Vogue magazine called it Chanel's "Ford T model car" and predicted the prototype of this modest dress would become essential clothing for all women.
At the end of the 1920s, the demi-toilet dress was still modelled after the daytime outfit. Yet, it had begun to enter its evolution.
During the 1930s and 1940s, all-day dresses were available, and demi-toilet appeared. Black was the most popular colour of this garment. Silk and satin were the most commonly used fabrics, and the length was generally only to the knee. The rise of black dresses was mainly due to two reasons. The first reason was that the black dress was rigorous and straightforward as an office dress, and it looked fashionable and elegant as well when attending a party at night. Furthermore, they were usually embellished with faux-diamond buttons and clothing accessories, such as brooches, sequins. And it was suitable enough to appear in evening activities like dance parties, cocktails parties, etc. Moreover, limited to the black and white photography techniques of the time, female stars usually wore black dresses in the movies to avoid the colour distortion of the dress in the film imaging. The Demi-toilet, dress quickly became a symbol of women's freedom of movement, mind, and body at that time and gave people a feeling of carefreeness.
After World War II, due to the return of soldiers from foreign countries, the clothing of other nationalities and different fabrics began to enter into Western society. The fashion scene changed considerably. The style of dress became more open, the length of the dress became shorter, the neckline became lower, the body was tighter, and the sleeves were removed. The post-war dresses had become more eye-catching and glamorous with more reflective sequins and shiny embroidery. People thought that the shinier of clothes, the better.
In the late 1940s, Christian Dior was the first to introduce the word 'Demi-toilet' to describe the trend of dress at the time. A slightly exaggerated hat, along with long elbow gloves, a small chain bag with a flash powder box, and shoes that matched the colour of the handbag, were the most popular style at the cocktail party. This tradition continued into the 1960s.
In the 1960s, the colour became relatively lighter, and pastel, silver, and gold instead of black became the main colour of the dress. The decorations on the dress were reduced. Since cocktail parties became less popular, most people stayed at home at night. So by the end of the 1960s, more and more women started to wear a simple dress in daily life. Home-made dresses started to replace demi-toilet dresses with fancy decorations. However, the design of the dresses still followed the trend of the time.
In the 1970s, the casual style was born, and loose jumpsuits and pants replaced the dresses.
In the 1980s, after the casual trend, demi-toilet once again became popular, usually with satin as the fabric and decorated with lace.
In the 1990s, demi-toilet became more and more popular. People started to wear it on formal occasions. For example, some Hollywood actresses wore it on the red carpet and leaders wore it to give speeches to the public. Since then, fashion designers of various brands had re-launched a collection of demi-toilet dresses that had been ignored for several decades.
Modern Characteristic
Today, demi-toilet dresses are a must-have for most brands of fashion collections. Significant changes in the style of dresses through history have evolved into a variety of styles that are emerging today. These kinds of dresses lead the fashion trend, let the girls have beautiful dresses, embellished with elegant temperament. Demi-toilet brings women not only noble temperament and elegant femininity, but also a symbol of taste and status, which is popular among women.
Nowadays, the style of the demi-toilet is diverse, with court retro, ethnic style, elegant sweetness, British aristocrats, garden girls, rock style, goddess style, exotic style, civilian fashion and so on. These styles are also novel and unique, including tube top skirts, suspender skirts, slanted skirts, waist skirts, tank tops, mini skirts, cake skirts, fishtail skirts, skirts, pleated skirts, tube skirts and more. In addition, materials such as chiffon, cotton, lace, silk, wool, linen, satin, denim, and leather are used.
Style Categories
Princess pattern[1]
The princess dress has many different styles, such as a tube top and a sling. These dresses are closely fitted to the waistline, which is unbroken by a seam. This type of dress carries the princess's dream in the hearts of every girl. Layers of chiffon and Pettiskirts are the main characteristics that make women look beautiful and lovely, especially young girls. The high-waist design fashionable details of the princess dress, and also better stretch the proportion of the girl's body, especially petite and thin women. Nowadays, under the influence of simplicity, the princess dress eliminates the cumbersome feeling of layered skirts and brings people with ease and romance. This style is suitable for a variety of body shapes. For example, a full-bodied bride can choose a deep neckline or V-neck to make the neck look slimmer.
Crinoline pattern[2]
This type of dress is representative of decent elegance and never follows the fashion trend. Tight waist, proper upper and cotton dress lining are the main characteristics. The exquisite design of the crinoline dress reflects the feeling of the nobility, and the large skirt makes women more solemn. In the British royal family, some dresses had a history of several hundred years and were passed down from generation to generation, even can be treated as a cultural relic.
Personal pattern
It is a simple dress to use draping fabric with a narrow design tailored to the body curve. Among all the patterns, it can best reflect the body beauty of women and the modern style of cutting. The personal pattern dress may be the most similar type of skirt people wear today. It has lots of characteristics depends on different designs, such as highlighting the neckline, adding glamour femininity and elongating proportions of upper body and legs. Unique tailoring methods make women high and thin visually and enable them to show their figures more confidently.
Color
Beige[3]
It is a perfect interpretation of classical and modern, elegant and fashionable as well as aristocratic tastes. Besides, beige can give others a gentle and benignant feeling as well. This kind of dress is excellently designed, paid attention to details, unique materials selected, high-quality and high-grade. Tailoring and obsessing the pursuit of eternal perfection spirit stimulating the feelings of the heart to reflect the unique taste and cultural connotation. Its design concept incorporates neoclassicism and expresses the nobility taste with simplicity.
Black[4]
Black is probably the most suitable color for all to wear on every occasion. It uses simple and elegant style to convey the feeling of solemnity, stability, seriousness, loneliness and seniority and present the image of charming gentleman style —— noble, self-cultivating, capable and generous.
Blue
Blue is a full colour, and the majority of scenery; the sky and the sea are blue. Whether it is dark blue or light blue, it reminds us of the innocent universe or the flowing atmosphere. Therefore, blue is also an eternal symbol and shows the classic and noble taste. Blue is the coldest colour that reminds people of the blue projection on the glacier. Blue does not represent emotional indifference in the typical case. It merely represents feelings of calm, rational and pure as well as the image of gentle, mature, concise, dignified and noble. On the other side, blue never lose the spirit of the times. It has a new interpretation at any time, full of vitality, and shows the stable maturity and unique charm of women, especially successful women.
Green
Green is a unique and eye-catching colour which can be elegant, deep, and comes with a great and mysterious atmosphere. Green is a neutral color[5], and it is related to recovery, growth, change, innocence, abundance, and calm. The ones wear in green always have strong will and emphasis on reason instead of emotion. They are likely to hide their thoughts and not pay too much attention to other people's affairs. Often making them good listeners and others sometimes take it for granted that such people can usually analyse things objectively.
Pink
Pink is the most popular colour among girls and teenagers. It represents a cute, gentle, innocent, elegance and noble demeanour. Deep pink shows kindness and gratitude, while light pink shows the tender and beautiful image of the girl. Some believe that wearing pink can bring true love to them, just like young girls' sweet dreams.
Purple
After 1862, notably after Queen Victoria wore a silk gown dyed with purple to the Royal Exhibition, purple dress quickly became fashionable. However, at that time, only the aristocracy and the wealthy could afford to wear clothes in purple because of the expensive dye. Purple is a mysterious and impressive colour, sometimes gives a sense of oppression, and sometimes it is threatening and sometimes inspiring. When it tends to be a dark purple, it can be noticeably terror. Dresses in light purple can leave others with an impression of calm and modest. While dresses in dark purple make others feel stressed and oppressive. Purple is a unique colour to wear because of the vast difference between shades.
White[4]
When it is the first time to meet someone, white may not be a prefered choice because it will show an impression of indifference. On the other side, some specialists think that white has a calming effect on irritability as well. The pure white dress is different from the ordinary white ones. This bright white dress is elegant with high quality and eye-catching. It has smooth lines, simple style, and no exaggerated natural shape. This makes the overall sense of elegance, more sophisticated craftsmanship, decent cuts, and precious fabrics bring mature woman charm. And with different neckline design, it can represent a stylish, positive, transcendental, and progressive image, reflecting the image of a romantic lady.
Yellow
Yellow is the brightest and lightest colour that shows the characteristics of clear, refreshed, innocent and friendly. The ones wear a yellow dress are very optimistic about life, always look forward, like new things, and are eager to change their life frequently. Wearing in yellow is also a manifestation of spoiled psychology and a strong desire to win the favour of others. Yellow can also represent frankness, straightforwardness and enterprise. It is difficult for them to be discouraged by evaluations from outside, and they even dare to accept the challenge and overcome it.
References
- ^ Lewandowski, Elizabeth J., 1960- (2011). The complete costume dictionary. Lewandowski, Dan. Lanham, Maryland. ISBN 9780810840041. OCLC 694238143.
{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link) CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (link) CS1 maint: numeric names: authors list (link) - ^ Schwartz, Julia; Bigelow, Marybelle (1971-05-01). "Fashioned in History-Apparel in the Western World". Art Education. 24 (5): 43. doi:10.2307/3191669. ISSN 0004-3125. JSTOR 3191669.
- ^ Forsythe, Sandra; Drake, Mary F.; Cox, Charles E. (1985). "Influence of applicant's dress on interviewer's selection decisions". Journal of Applied Psychology. 70 (2): 374–378. doi:10.1037//0021-9010.70.2.374. ISSN 0021-9010.
- ^ a b Johnson, Kim; Lennon, Sharron J; Rudd, Nancy (2014-11-22). "Dress, body and self: research in the social psychology of dress". Fashion and Textiles. 1 (1). doi:10.1186/s40691-014-0020-7. ISSN 2198-0802.
- ^ Stanchev, Peter; Green Jr., David; Dimitrov, Boyan (2003). "High Level Color Similarity Retrieval". Information Theories and Applications. ISSN 1313-0463.