Krasnaya Moskva
Krasnaya Moskva (Template:Lang-ru, literally Red Moscow, figuratively Beautiful Moscow) was the first Soviet-created perfume.
The fragrance belongs to the class of chypre fragnances (sub-class "floral chypres").[1]
Its origins are disputed to the point of creating urban legends. It may date from before the Russian Revolution of 1917 as Le Bouquet Préféré de l'Impératrice (The Empress’ Favorite Bouquet’), a fragrance created in Henri Brocard's factory in 1913 (and later given a Russian name); or it may have been created in 1925, after Brocard's factory was nationalized and renamed Novaya Zarya in 1922.[1][2] They contain more than 60 components, the official description of the perfume says: "A thin, warm, noble aroma with a tinge of orange blossom".[3] Rudolf Arkadyevich Friedman in his book "Perfumery", edition of 1955, writes: "Krasnaya Moskva is associated with elegant warmth, playful and flirtatious languor, melodious, plastic melodiousness",[4] "the perfume "Krasnaya Moskva", mainly representing the violet complex, are quite sentimental by smell, but due to the change of timbre and the introduction of a number of harmonizing substances, they received a special beauty and richness of smell",[5] "the perfume "Krasnaya Moskva", consisting of a mixture of the bases of iris, violet, carnation for perfection (rounding) of all these primary materials and for enhancing their delicate smell, requires a significant proportion of jasmine essence".[6] Renata Litvinova describes them as "sugary, concentrated... giving rise to a feeling of normal healthy nostalgia".[7] In 1958, they were awarded a prize at the World Exhibition in Brussels.
- Polina Zhemchuzhina served as the head of the factory from 1930 to 1932.,[1] the idea of KM is still associated with her.
Krasnaya Moskva became very popular and was widespread in the Soviet Union (partially due to limited competition) and, after the Second World War, in became popular throughout the Eastern Bloc. Its ubiquitousness during socialist era led many to shun it now, in post-Soviet era: due to being "ancient", the very name of "Krasnaya Moskva" is misattributed to "frags for old ladies", e.g. perfumes for older women who "got used" to the smell: Krasnaya Moskva is known to have strong sillage, compared to modern perfumes which are "tender" (less stronger smell of non-chypre perfumes and actually weaker smell of "eau de toilettes"). It is also to noye KM never came with atomiser and it is ill-advised to do so.
The fragrance and its design, however, survived the fall of the Soviet Union and is still being produced in today by Novaya Zarya factory, located in the Danilovsky District, Moscow; and it still comes in "old", "traditional" yet slightly redesigned 42ml "spalsh" bottles (e.g. bottles without atomisers);[1] As for 2020 prices, classic Krasnaya Moskva is available in Novaya Zarya's boutiques for 800 RUB. Same 42 ml bottles can be found in supermarkets (such as Russian stores of "Auchan" chain) for around 500 RUB.
- There's also "eau de cologne Krasnaya Moskva" lotion (e.g. less concentrated one KM) which is sold in hexagonal-shaped 85ml bottles with wider bottle neck, also in "splash" type. Its price (as low as 111 RUB for 85 ml bottle in 2020) and "cheap" smell (common for eau de colognes with much alcohol) is often misleading as well.
- Also, 2$/bottle colognes by Novaya Zarya in general are, despite resembling Soviet bottles of perfumes (and using names of Soviet-era perfumes like "Consul" or "Shipr"), now come as "hygiene lotions" colognes rather than full-pledged eau de toilettes or eau de parfumes.
References
- ^ a b c d Krasnaya Moskva or Red Moscow by Novaya Zarya, Fragrantica Perfume Encyclopedia
- ^ "Chanel No. 5 und der Duft der Sowjets".
{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link) - ^ Химия и жизнь, 1973, № 4. С. 78, статья «Летучий пленник».
- ^ Фридман Р. А. Парфюмерия, Пищепромиздат, 1955, с. 63—71.
- ^ Фридман Р. А. Парфюмерия, Пищепромиздат, 1955, с. 95—97.
- ^ Фридман Р. А. Парфюмерия, Пищепромиздат, 1955, с. 101—103.
- ^ "Низкопоклонство перед запахом". Ъ-Деньги. Archived from the original on 2013-04-22. Retrieved 2013-04-18.