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Jelena Behrend

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Jelena Behrend
Born1968 (age 55–56)
Serbia
NationalityAmerican
OccupationJewelry Designer
Known forHammered chains
Websitehttps://www.jelenabehrendstudio.com

Jelena Behrend (born 1968[1]) is a Serbian-born American jewelry designer based out of the Lower East Side in New York City. Described as fashion forward by New York (magazine),[2] her hammered pieces have been seen on Hollywood celebrities and in feature films.[3]

Early life and education

Originally a writer from Serbia, Behrend transitioned to jewelry making when she emigrated to the United States in 1988.[4] Unable to pursue a career in writing, she turned to the visual arts to express herself. Having acquired some technical skills when she was younger, Behrend was able to train with a master jeweler in Los Angeles before returning to New York City to open her first studio on Catharine Street.[5] She began by making wholesale jewellery for large department stores and then decided to focus on more personal pieces in 1996. Prior to owning her current namesake studio, she co-owned the Oxygène Collectif atelier with former Wilhelmina model Maria Luisa Mosquera.[1][6][7]

Career

Her hand-forged, hand-hammered, and hand-carved jewelry is of Hollywood´s most memorable characters.[5] Behrend is known in fashion circles for her handmade gender blurring jewelry, featured in many magazine layouts[8][9] and also seen in the film The Girl With The Dragon Tattoo.[10] Her pieces have been worn by Madonna, Lenny Kravitz and Gwyneth Paltrow,[11] and are sold in high end boutiques or are custom made.[3] Relying on recycled metals, all of Behrend's work is hand forged using old tools. Her signature pieces are hammered chains that eschew mass-production and were inspired by the jewelry worn by European gypsies.[12][4]

In 2008 Behrend produced a storefront installation with the artist Lisa Kirk, designed for a special edition of the fragrance Revolution.[13][14]

Live FAST Magazine describes Behrend's pieces as being raw and edgy, stating that she "..holds true to the purest idea of an artisan".[15] Her technique also reveals a soulful approach to jewelry making. According to Behrend,"My biggest fear is that it is finished. You have to know when to stop. It has to still be alive."[5] In 2011, the Fitzroy Gallery located in Soho, Manhattan paid tribute to Behrend's methodology by exhibiting various videos, assemblages, and photographs regarding her work.[16]

References

  1. ^ a b "Risky Business". www.villagevoice.com. March 2, 1999.
  2. ^ "Jelena Behrend Studio". NYMag.com.
  3. ^ a b Abrams, Melanie (November 21, 2017). "His, Hers and Theirs: Jewelry Crosses the Gender Barrier". The New York Times. Archived from the original on November 21, 2017. Retrieved February 13, 2018.
  4. ^ a b Publishing, Here (June 10, 1997). "The Advocate". Here Publishing – via Google Books.
  5. ^ a b c Studios, Vanity Fair (December 7, 2015). "Artisan Craft: Jelena Behrend Forges Bold Directions in Jewelry". Vanity Fair.
  6. ^ Staff, WWD (May 20, 1999). "Article May 20, 1999".
  7. ^ Studios, Vanity Fair (December 7, 2015). "Artisan Craft: Jelena Behrend Forges Bold Directions in Jewelry". Vanities. Archived from the original on January 12, 2016. Retrieved February 13, 2018.
  8. ^ Staff, Hollywood Life (November 2, 2011). "Jessica Biel Looks Sexy In White For 'Elle' Magazine!".
  9. ^ "Supermodel Carolyn Murphy Redefines Her Role". April 4, 2016.
  10. ^ Maurer, Sarah (September 13, 2012). "Jelena Behrend: Made of Metal [later retitled: "Fashion Radar: Q&A With Jelena Behrend"]". livefastmag.com. Archived from the original on September 17, 2012. Retrieved February 13, 2018.
  11. ^ "Jelena Behrend Studio". NYMag.com. January 27, 2018. Archived from the original on January 27, 2018. Retrieved February 13, 2018.
  12. ^ McGinley, Alexandra (February 7, 1999). "NEW YORKERS & CO.; Custom Jewelry Designed With Help From Gypsies". The New York Times – via NYTimes.com.
  13. ^ "LISA KIRK | Revolution! (SmartSpaces)". INVISIBLE-EXPORTS. Retrieved November 27, 2019.
  14. ^ "REVOLUTION PIPE BOMB, Lisa Kirk and Jelena Behrend | Artspace.com". Artspace. Retrieved November 27, 2019.
  15. ^ Mag, Live Fast. "Live FAST Magazine – The Best of Fashion, Art, Sex and Travel » Fashion Radar: Q&A With Jelena Behrend". livefastmag.com.
  16. ^ "Fitzroy Gallery". fitzroygallery.com. July 19, 2011. Archived from the original on February 26, 2012. Retrieved February 13, 2018.