Michael Fish (fashion designer)
Michael Fish (1940-2016) was a British fashion designer[1] famous for designing many of the notable British looks of the 1960s and 1970s, such as the kipper tie.[2]
Career
As a fashion designer
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Michael Fish was born in Wood Green, London in 1940. His mother Joan, worked in a chemist shop in Winchmore Hill, his father, Sydney, was an on-course bookmaker. He had one sister, Lesley and a brother named Philip.
Fish was apprenticed in shirtmaking, and by the early 1960s was designing shirts at traditional men's outfitters Turnbull & Asser of Jermyn Street. His designs reflected, and to some extent brought on, the peacock revolution in men's fashion design, which was a reaction against the dull conservatism of men's dress. His shirts were floral in pattern and often included ruffles and other adornments.[1] By the middle 1960s, he had opened his own boutique in Mayfair, with Barry Sainsbury, the exclusive establishment was named Mr. Fish, and was situated at 17, Clifford Street.[3]
Peculiar to Mr Fish became a fashion icon known for designing flamboyant, attention-getting clothing for notable celebrities of the 1960s and 1970s such as Peter Sellers, Lord Snowdon and David Bowie.[4]
By the middle 1970s, the Mr Fish shop had closed, and he took a job with Sulka in New York, a label famous for its silk foulard dressing gowns. In 1978, he returned to London to work for Jeremy Norman as greeter at the fashionable Embassy Club in Bond Street, the London equivalent of Studio 54.
Mr Fish designs set fashion trends, the kipper tie being one unique example, the polo neck sweater look, which proved a major success in New York and London in the winter of 1967.[5] Perhaps the most controversial of Fish's designs was the "dress" designed to be worn by men, which was occasionally worn by such rock stars as David Bowie (including on the cover of the album The Man Who Sold the World) and Mick Jagger in the Hyde Park charity concert (including in the film Performance).[6]
In 2004, Fish suffered a ruptured aorta which led to a severe stroke. He has been in a nursing home for the last ten years.
Fish was never married and has no children. His brand has now been purchased by David Mason who is bringing out a range of Mr Fish clothing.
Film work
Fish's designs could be seen in films between the middle 1960s and the early 1970s as well, such as Performance, in which Mick Jagger wears one of Fish's dresses for men.[3] Fish was credited as a costume designer for the Peter Sellers film There's a Girl in My Soup.[7] He also designed the velvet jackets and ruffled shirts worn by Jon Pertwee for the duration of his five-year tenure as the Third Doctor on Doctor Who.[8]
Literary references
Jerry Cornelius, Michael Moorcock's fictional poster child for this era, often wore elaborate tailor-made suits by Mr. Fish.
Gallery
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Executive Director of The Seasteading Institute wearing a kipper tie in 2012 similar to those designed early in Michael Fish's career.
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Sean Connery as James Bond wearing a Michael Fish ensemble in Diamonds Are Forever.
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Fish regularly created blouses and dresses with "poet" style ruffles, most notoriously for Mick Jagger playing Hyde Park in 1969 in a men's shirtdress, which has no pictures in the public domain.
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Cass Elliot wearing a kaftan in 1967 that was most likely designed by Michael Fish.
External links
- "The Peculiar ’60s Designer Who Redefined Men’s Fashion", New York Times
- "Peacock revolution back with label that dressed Mick Jagger and David Bowie", The Guardian
- "Jewish designers to be celebrated in London exhibition" BBC News, 24 January 2023
References
- ^ a b "Mr Fish - Victoria and Albert Museum". Archived from the original on 10 October 2012. Retrieved 18 May 2011.
- ^ Taylor, Angela (1 June 1968). "Men in Dark Suits, Beware: Mr. Fish Is Coming to Town". The New York Times. Retrieved 13 May 2008.
- ^ a b ibid
- ^ Rafanelli, Stephanie (31 March 2008). "Bowie Rules NYC". New York Magazine. Retrieved 14 May 2008.
- ^ Sims, Josh. Rock Fashion. Omnibus Press, 2001. P. 81.
- ^ Rock Fashion p. 116
- ^ There's a Girl in My Soup, (1970).
- ^ BBC (1989-03-10). Interview with Jon Pertwee. Terry Wogan.