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Jerry Moffatt

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Jerry Moffatt
Personal information
Born18 March 1963
Leicester, England
EducationSt. David's College
OccupationProfessional climber
Height5 ft 11 in (180 cm)
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
Known for
  • First to climb 8a+, 8c+ (sport)
  • First to on-sight 7b+, 7c, 7c+ (sport)
  • First to climb 8B (bouldering)
Retired2004
Updated on 13 May 2013

Jerry Moffatt (born 1963) is a British former professional rock climber from Leicestershire, England.

In 2009, Moffatt's autobiography, Jerry Moffatt: Revelations, won the grand prize at the Banff Mountain Book Festival.[1] His second book, Mastermind, was published in 2017. In 2018, he won the first lifetime achievement award for climbing.[2]

Biography

In 1981, at age 18, Moffatt completed the first ascent of Little Plumb (E6 6c) in the Peak District, in England. Four years later, his ascent of the Lost Arrow Spire in Yosemite Valley with Ron Kaulk was filmed live for ABC Wide World of Sports. Injuries to Moffatt's elbows stopped his climbing for almost two years, but after successful surgery he returned in 1987.

Moffatt built a training area for himself which contained a 45° board with wooden holds and a small kick board for feet, which has since been widely adopted by climbing gyms. Along with Paul Reeve, he opened the Foundry Climbing Centre in Sheffield in 1991

In 1996, with Johnny Dawes and Simon Nadine, Moffatt climbed Nelson's column in London to protest the Royal Canadian Air Forces's flyovers of the Innu people's hunting grounds.

Moffatt's first child was born in 2002 and he retired then from professional climbing.

Moffatt focused on surfing and writing, completing an autobiography (Jerry Moffatt: Revelations) which was followed by a book on sports psychology (Mastermind).[3]

Notable climbs

  • Super Crack, Shawangunk, USA (1982) - first on-sight of this grade [4]
  • Oyster, Pen Trwyn, Wales (1983) - first ascent of world's first sport 8a[5]
  • The Face, Altmühltal (1983) – first ascent, considered the first 8a+ (5.13c) in history[6][7]
  • Heisse Finger, Germany (1983) - world's first 7c to be on-sighted [8]
  • Pol Pot, Verdon (1984) - world's first 7c+ to be on-sighted [9]
  • Liquid Ambar, lower Pen Trwyn, Wales (1990) - first ascent of the world's first 8c+[5][6]
  • Evolution, Raven Tor (1995) - first ascent[6][10]

References

  1. ^ "Banff Mountain Book Festival". Archived from the original on 2 November 2009. Retrieved 3 August 2011.
  2. ^ "Jerry Moffatt interview". planetmountain.com. 16 February 2009. Archived from the original on 4 March 2016. Retrieved 15 May 2013.
  3. ^ Jerry Moffatt: Revelations, (with Niall Grimes), 2009, Vertebrate Publishing. ISBN 978-1-906148-11-9
  4. ^ https://www.mountainproject.com/route/111251312/super-crack
  5. ^ a b "UKC Logbook - 'Oyster'". www.ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 23 April 2020.
  6. ^ a b c "Une biographie pour Jerry Moffatt !" (in French). grimper.com. 18 February 2009. Retrieved 14 May 2013.
  7. ^ Maurizio Oviglia (23 December 2012). "The evolution of free climbing". planetmountain.com. Archived from the original on 4 March 2016. Retrieved 14 May 2013.
  8. ^ "Rock Climb Ekel, Frankenjura". Mountain Project. Retrieved 23 April 2020.
  9. ^ "UKC Logbook - 'Polpot'". www.ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 23 April 2020.
  10. ^ "Evolution". ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 14 May 2013.
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