Eyelash permanent wave, or more commonly called an eyelash perm, and may also refer to permanent relaxer that straightens the hair is a cosmetics procedure performed only by licensed Cosmetologists to flip up eyelashes using hair perming technology.
Lashes are treated with a perm solution which is then followed by the neutralizer and sometimes depending on which system you use will have a nourishing oil as the last step to recondition and strengthen the lashes. Each being left on for about ten to fifteen minutes. Traditionally when lash perming was introduced a soft like sponge in the shape of a rod would be placed at the base of the lashes where the lashes would take on its new shape. Although, in recent years people have now started using a silicone pad that is placed on your eyelid. There is small, medium, or large silicone pads depending on the natural length of your lashes or how curly you would like them to be. This new form or perming lashes compared to the original sponge rod creates more of a natural shape and curve to the lashes. The original way of perming lashes which is still done oftentimes gives less of a natural curve or shape to the lash.
Another way to perm lashes is done by using a plastic instrument that looks a lot like a lash curler. This plastic instrument is then placed at the base of your lashes and then the instrument pinches them up wards the way a lash curler works. It rests on your eye for support and the rest of the procedure is performed the same way you would with rods or silicone pads.
Once your lashes have been applied (by a special glue that does not harm the lashes) to the perm rod or silicone pad the perming solution is applied to the upturned lash, and then it is left to set for ten to fifteen minutes, followed by the neutralizer which is also left on for ten to fifteen minutes. In certain systems there will be a nourishing oil as the last step, this nourishing oil also helps to break up the glue that was used to place the lashes on the silicone pad making it easier for the removal of the silicone pad. Once the silicone pad has been removed the eyelids and lashes are cleansed of any residue left over. The over all procedure takes about 30–45 minutes to perform.
The results may lasts for two to three months. The chemical reaction breaks and reforms the bonds of the hair. This reaction, softening the lash's inner structure between the protein chains of the hair. The hair swells, stretches and softens, then is molded around the shape of the perm rod or silicone pad to form a curl.
The procedure is performed in a salon or spa by a trained, licensed and certified individual. Every state requires individuals performing the procedure to have a valid Cosmetology license.
Historically, to achieve an upturned look, lash curlers and mascara were used. The first eyelash curler was invented by the Kurlash company. An early alternative method for curling hair that was suitable for use on people was invented in 1905 by German hairdresser Charles Nessler. Eyelash perming developed as a widely available solution sometime after 2000.
Due to the chemicals involved, like any procedure, there is some risk. Side effects of the procedure have been known to include stinging around the eyes. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA), while approving of hair treatment, has not yet approved the procedure for use around the eyes.
- "Karl L. Nessler". Retrieved 2006-07-24.
- Calvete, L.G., "Permanent Waving: The Golden Years", Publish and be damned, Toronto, Canada, 2007 | ISBN 1-897312-34-2