Peter Gillman

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Peter Gillman (born 1942) is a British writer and journalist specializing (but not exclusively) in mountaineering topics. His book, Direttissima; the Eiger Assault (1967), also published under the title, Eiger Direct, co-authored with Dougal Haston, told the story of the ascent of the Eiger North Face in which John Harlin II lost his life.

Early life and education[edit]

Gillman attended Hawes Down school, Dulwich College (1953–61), and University College Oxford (1961–64). He was editor of Isis magazine at Oxford.[1]



He became a journalist on leaving Oxford and was soon writing for the Sunday Times, first as a freelancer, and then as a staff member, where he spent five years on the newspaper's Insight team. He became a freelance journalist in 1983 and has written for most British newspapers.[2] He specializes in mountain writing and has won six annual awards from the Outdoor Writers Guild.

Peter Gillman is currently writing for the Sunday Times Magazine and theMail on Sunday, as well as specialist outdoor magazines. Has written for most national UK newspapers and numerous magazines, and authored a number of books, some co-authored with his wife Leni.

Additional activities[edit]

Along with writing, he works as journalism and writing trainer and consultant at a range of magazine publishers in the UK and overseas. He had trained numerous journalists on the award-winning magazine Building. Additionally, he chaired the judging panel for consumer writer of the year at the Periodical Publishers Association awards.[citation needed]

Additionally, he works as researcher and assistant producer in television projects and cinema.[citation needed]

He is a keen amateur choral singer, being a member of both the Croydon Male Voice Choir and the Croydon Philharmonic Choir.


Gillman has won the following OWG Awards for Excellence:

In 2000, he and wife Leni won the Boardman Tasker Award for Mountain Writing with their book The Wildest Dream, the biography of Everest mountaineer George Mallory.[citation needed]



  • Gillman, Peter (1978). Fitness on Foot: Climbing and Walking for Pleasure. Tadworth : World's Work : The Sunday Times. 
  • Elaine Davenport, Paul Eddy & Peter Gillman (1978). The Plumbat Affair. Futura Publications. ISBN 0233970169. 
  • Gillman, Peter & Gillman, Leni (1987). Alias David Bowie: A Biography. New York: H. Holt. 
  • Gillman, Peter & Gillman, Leni (1980). Collar the lot!: How Britain Interned and Expelled Its Wartime Refugees. London ; New York: Quartet Books. 
  • Gillman, Peter & Gillman, Leni (2001). Everest: Eighty Years of Triumph and Tragedy. Boston ; London: Little, Brown. 
  • Gillman, Peter & Gillman, Leni (2000). The Wildest Dream: The Biography of George Mallory. Seattle, WA: The Mountaineers.  Winner National Outdoor Book Award[citation needed]
  • Gillman, Peter & Hamann, Paul (1987). The Duty Men: The Inside Story of the Customs. London: BBC Books. 
  • Gillman, Peter (1989). In balance : Twenty years of mountaineering journalism. London: Hodder and Stoughton. 
  • Gillman, Peter & Salkeld, Audrey (1993). Everest: The Best Writing and Pictures from Seventy Years of Human Endeavour. Boston: Little, Brown. 

Selected articles[edit]