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Pumori

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Pumori
View from Pumori Base Camp, Khumbu Valley
Highest point
Elevation7,161 m (23,494 ft)
Prominence1,278 m (4,193 ft)[1]
Geography
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LocationNepal-Tibet
Parent rangeHimalayas
Climbing
First ascent1962 by Gerhard Lenser
Easiest routesnow/ice climb

Pumori (Nepali: पुमोरि)(or Pumo Ri) is a mountain on the Nepal-Tibet border in the Mahalangur section of the Himalaya. Pumori lies just eight kilometres west of Mount Everest. Pumori, which means "Unmarried Daughter" in the Sherpa language, was named by George Mallory. Climbers sometimes refer to Pumori as "Everest's Daughter".

Pumori is a popular climbing peak and the easiest route is graded class 3, although with significant avalanche danger. Pumori was first climbed in 1962 by Gerhard Lenser of a German-Swiss expedition. Two Czechs (Leopold Sulovsky and Michalec Zeduak) climbed a new route on the South face in the spring of 1996 (Joe Simpson, 1997, Dark Shadows falling).

An outlier of Pumori is Kala Patthar (5,643m/18,513'), which appears as a big brown bump below the impressive south face of Pumori. Many trekkers going to see Mt. Everest up close will attempt to climb to the top of Kala Patthar. The views from almost anywhere on Kala Patthar of Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse are quite impressive on a clear day.

Notable ascents

  • 1962 FA by Gerhard Lenser of a German-Swiss expedition.
  • 1974 West Face new route by Alpine Club Unpo, Japan, summit reached by Minoru Takagi and Nobuyaki Kaneko on Oct 13th.[2]
  • 1986 East Face new route by Hiroshi Aota and Yoshiki Sasahara (Japan) over three days, summiting on Dec 3rd.[3]
  • 1986 1985 Catalan Route on East Face, solo by Todd Bibler, summit reached Dec 5th.[3]

References

  1. ^ "Pumori, China/Nepal" The prominence value given here of 1,278 m is based on elevation of 7,138 m. Peakbagger.com. Retrieved 2012-01-22.
  2. ^ Fujita, Hiroshi (1975). "Climbs and Expeditions 1974". American Alpine Journal. 20 (49). New York, NY, USA: American Alpine Club: 198–199.
  3. ^ a b Cheney, Michael (1987). "Climbs and Expeditions 1986". American Alpine Journal. 29 (61). New York, NY, USA: American Alpine Club: 238. ISBN 0-930410-29-7.