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Seco (food)

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Seco
Alternative nameschicken stew, meat stew, goat stew, kid stew, chavelo stew, glove stew
TypeStew
Place of originEcuador Peru
Main ingredientsMeat (chicken, beef or goat) and various seasonings.

The seco is a stew typical of Ecuadorian and Peruvian cuisine. It can be made with any type of meat. According to an Ecuadorian popular etymology, the name of seco comes from the Península de Santa Elena in Ecuador, where at the beginning of the 20th century a camp English did oil work in Ancón, when referring to the second course of food, in English "second", the Ecuadorians repeated deforming the word until they reached the current "seco",[1][2] which has been widely disseminated, despite being a myth, since records of this dish have been found since 1820, almost a century before the English presence in the Santa Elena Peninsula. At that time, deer and Creole goats abounded (in fact, the dry goat is native to the province of Guayas). According to the Dictionary of Peruvianisms of the Peruvian Wings University, seco is a «stew of beef, kid or another animal, macerated in vinegar, which is served accompanied by rice and a sauce of ají, huacatay and cilantro".[3] Thus, its main characteristic is to marinate and cook the chosen meat with some type of sauce acid, such as chicha, beer, naranjilla or vinegar.

Origins

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The place where it was created for the first time is not known exactly. According to culinary researcher Gloria Hinostroza, the origin of this stew lies in the seco tajine, North African dish made from lamb.[4][5][6] His brother, the journalist and gourmet Rodolfo Hinostroza, agrees that the origin would be in the tajine carried by slaves from North Africa who traveled to the Pacific coast of South America during the early years of the Viceroyalty. [7]

There are references that indicate that it could be a stew known in Peru and Ecuador as early as the 19th century,[8] during his visit to Peru, the anthropologist German Ernst Wilhelm Middendorf stated that:

They are called dry dishes in which chicken or kid meat is sautéed in a thin, spicy broth together with yellow potatoes. There are many stews that are prepared in a similar way [...] Some nuns are very expert in their preparation [...] All these stews have to be sautéed or stewed over a high heat over low heat, to be fully penetrated by the spices, which taste much better than they appear [...] Actually, the external appearance is sometimes inapparent, but this is a fault that could be easily corrected, if tried.[9]

A recipe for seco de cabrito, a typical dish of the gastronomy of the north coast of Peru, already appears in the New Peruvian Cooking Manual of 1926.[10] In the 1930 book Chronicles of Old Guayaquil, Modesto Chávez Franco reports that the dry chicken was already prepared in Ecuador since the beginning of the 19th century.[11]

Origin of name

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There is no consensus on the origin of the name of this dish. It is popularly thought that when cooking the stew the water must evaporate until it reaches a degree of dryness, hence it must be "seco", although in reality all the variants of "seco" are usually quite juicy, and that the name "seco" is an ironic way of calling a soupy dish.[12][13]

One of the most widely accepted references is that the name seco comes from the Santa Elena Peninsula, where at the beginning of the 20th century oil works were carried out in the Ecuadorian town of Ancón. At that time, Creole deer and goats abounded (in fact, the dried goat is native to the Guayas Province) and a stew was prepared with them very simple that was accompanied by red rice, as in Ecuador it is customary to serve lunch with a soup of starter and a main course called the "second course" to which the English workers would say "second", which, by derivation, led to "seco".[1]

However, this is a myth, since, according to Modesto Chávez Franco in his Chronicles of Guayaquil, there are records of this dish from 1820, almost a century before the English presence in the Santa Elena Peninsula.[14]

Varieties

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The different ways of cooking "seco" depend on the main meat that is added to it.

In Ecuador

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In general, the "seco" one in the highlands of Ecuador is accompanied by white rice or rice cooked with achiote,[11] ripe plantains, potatoes and avocado, while on the coast (for example, the manabita stew) it is accompanied by yucas cooked or fried and a salad. According to the main meat that is added we have:

  • Chicken stew cooking
    Chicken stew cooking
  • Chivo stew with white rice and plantain
    Chivo stew with white rice and plantain
  • Guanta stew with red rice, salad and patacones
    Guanta stew with red rice, salad and patacones
  • Chicken stew: As its name indicates, the main ingredient is chicken meat (in the form of quarters), although chicken can also be used,[11] that is roasted in a pot along with tomato, onion, pepper, and spices such as mint or cilantro and the juice of naranjilla. It is considered a unique and festive dish that is served hot. The dried chicken is made in two stages, the first is the preparation of the meat, which is fried in a pot until it reaches goldenla. The chicken can be stir-fried with or without a marinade that is made in lemon juice. In the second phase (which we could say "wet") the golden chicken is cooked in a liquid formed by blending the other ingredients. The sour taste is achieved by adding beer or separately liquefied naranjilla juice, which should be added in the final stages of cooking. Among the Ecuadorian population abroad, naranjilla can be difficult to obtain, which has given rise to variants through substitute sour fruits, such as tamarind[15] or the kiwi.
  • Goat stew:[8][16] It is a dish consumed in the provinces of Loja, Santa Elena and Guayas Province. It is a stew that derives from the northern Peruvian dry kid.[1] The meat is marinated with chicha de jora, although beer is preferably used to soften the strong flavor of the meat .[1] In some cases, goat meat is replaced by lamb meat, although the dish is still called in the same way.
  • Guanta stew: It is a typical dish of the Ecuadorian Amazon.[17] Place the meat of the glove in pieces in a deep bowl mixed with the crushed garlic and cerveza. Separately, it is fried in the oil, with all the chopped ingredients (onion, pepper, coriander, peanuts, etc.) and the seasonings. Blend the kidney tomatoes together with the paiteña onion. Then, the meat is incorporated with the beer liquid, it is allowed to mix everything well and it is cooked over low heat until it is soft. This dish is usually served with rice and patacones fried plantain and yuca.[18]
  • Other stews: Other stews that are usually prepared in Ecuador are duck stew, goat or lamb stew, chicken stew, meat stew, lamb stew and fish stew.[19][20][21][22][23][24]

In Peru

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The Peruvian seco is a typical dish of the north coast and of the capital of the country.[5][25][26] It is usually chicken, meat, kid, lamb, beef, chicken or fish,[12][27] its main ingredient, and the one that gives it its characteristic flavor, is cilantro.

[4][9] It is usually accompanied by beans cooked and white rice.[26][13]

  • Kid stew accompanied by cooked yuccas, white rice, beans and Creole sauce
    Kid stew accompanied by cooked yuccas, white rice, beans and Creole sauce
  • Lamb stew with mote
    Lamb stew with mote
  • Chicken stew with rice and beans
    Chicken stew with rice and beans
  • Meat stew with white rice and beans
    Meat stew with white rice and beans

See also

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References

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  1. ^ a b c d "¿De dónde proviene el nombre de seco de chivo?". El Comercio (in Spanish). Retrieved April 13, 2018.
  2. ^ "Historia con sabor: Seco de chivo". The Universe (in Spanish). 2018-10-11. Retrieved 2020-10-02.
  3. ^ Juan, Alvarez Vita (2009). Diccionario de Peruanismos. El habla castellana del Perú (in Spanish). Universidad Alas Peruvian. p. 401. ISBN 9789972210730. Retrieved April 13, 2018.
  4. ^ a b c d Hinostroza, Gloria (July 31, 2007). "El Seco de Lomo". Historia de la Gastronomía Peruana. Retrieved 6 December 2018.
  5. ^ a b "Así prepara Gastón Acurio el estofado más conocido de Perú". La Vanguardia. September 3, 2017. Retrieved 6 December 2018.
  6. ^ Pérez Gálvez, Jesús Claudio; López-Guzmán, Tomás; Buiza, Franklin Cordova; Medina-Viruel, Miguel Jesús (1 December 2017). "Gastronomy as an element of attraction in a tourist destination: the case of Lima, Peru". Journal of Ethnic Foods. 4 (4): 254–261. doi:10.1016/j.jef.2017.11.002. ISSN 2352-6181.
  7. ^ a b Hinostroza 2006, p. 216.
  8. ^ a b ""¿Quién lo inventó? El seco de chivo"". www.larevista.ec (in Spanish). Retrieved 13 April 2018.
  9. ^ a b Coloma Porcari, César (17 May 2004). "Seco que hace agua la boca". Lima: El Comercio. p. e-5. Retrieved 22 September 2018.
  10. ^ Un Limeño mazamorrero (1926). Nuevo manual de la cocina peruana (in Spanish). Lima: E. Rosay. pp. 124–125. Retrieved 13 April 2018.
  11. ^ a b c Fierro, Mariví (October 20, 2007). "Un plato que fue considerado como un alimento 'pobre', pero de gran delicia". www.eluniverso.com. Retrieved February 1, 2019.
  12. ^ a b c Fetzer, Erika (2 April 2004). "Seco de cordero". Sabores del Perú: la cocina peruana desde los incas hasta nuestros días (in Spanish). Viena. pp. 120–121. ISBN 9788483302491. Retrieved 1 February 2019.
  13. ^ a b Acurio 2017, p. 22.
  14. ^ "Un plato que fue considerado como un alimento 'pobre', pero de gran delicia". El Universo. Guayaquil. 2007-10-20. Retrieved 2022-02-10.
  15. ^ "Las recetas de Laylita – Recetas en español" (in Spanish). 2 May 2012. Retrieved 9 February 2018.
  16. ^ "El seco de chivo y otros platos ecuatorianos se presentan en Pekín". El Universo (in Spanish). October 24, 2013. Retrieved March 1, 2019.
  17. ^ "Tsáchilas apuestan al turismo para difundir costumbres". El Universo (in Spanish). 11 July 2017. Retrieved 26 January 2019.
  18. ^ "Seco de guanta (preparación)". Las delicias del Oriente Ecuatoriano. July 19, 2015. Retrieved January 26, 2019.
  19. ^ "Seco de pato – Recetas de Ecuador". www.cocina-ecuatoriana.com (in Spanish). Retrieved 2023-02-25.
  20. ^ "Seco de cabrito o de cordero – Recetas de Ecuador". www.cocina-ecuatoriana.com (in Spanish). Retrieved 2023-02-25.
  21. ^ "Seco de gallina – Recetas de Ecuador". www.cocina-ecuatoriana.com (in Spanish). Retrieved 2023-02-25.
  22. ^ "Seco de carne ecuatoriano – Recetas de Ecuador". www.cocina-ecuatoriana.com (in Spanish). Retrieved 2023-02-25.
  23. ^ "Seco de borrego ecuatoriano – Recetas de Ecuador". www.cocina-ecuatoriana.com (in Spanish). Retrieved 2023-02-25.
  24. ^ "SECO ECUATORIANO DE PESCADO". YouTube (in Spanish). Retrieved 2023-02-25.
  25. ^ "How to eat in Lima". La Estrella de Panamá. September 3, 2017. Retrieved February 1, 2019.
  26. ^ a b Rough Guides UK, ed. (January 1, 2016). Lima (Rough Guides Snapshot Peru). Rough Guides UK. ISBN 9780241255223. Retrieved February 1, 2019.
  27. ^ a b Mail, ed. (2003). Segundos & Guisos. Cooking Collection Easy (in Spanish). DL. 15011522003-0171. Lima. p. 99.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link)
  28. ^ a b "Piura está de fiesta y aquí te dejamos seis platos típicos que te antojarán estar en el norte". Peru21 (in Spanish). 15 August 2018. Retrieved 1 February 2019.
  29. ^ a b Acurio, Gastón (2008). Larousse de la gastronomía peruana: diccionario gatronómico ilustrado (in Spanish). Lima: Q.W. Editores. p. 61. ISBN 9789972589379. Retrieved 13 June 2019.
  30. ^ Hinostroza 2006, p. 119.
  31. ^ Gamonal, Geraldine (16 November 2018). "¿Cómo preparar seco de cabrito?". La República (in Spanish). Retrieved 6 December 2018.
  32. ^ Hocquenghem, Anne-Marie; Monzón, S. (1995). La cocina piurana: ensayo de antropología de la alimentación (in Spanish). CNRS. ISBN 9788489303492. Retrieved 6 December 2018.
  33. ^ "Sabores patrios en "El Señorío de Sulco"". Diario Correo (in Spanish). 28 July 2018. Retrieved 1 February 2019.
  34. ^ "Cabrito a la norteña será la atracción en festival gastronómico en Chimbote". El Comercio (in Spanish). 23 May 2010. Retrieved 1 February 2019.
  35. ^ Qori manka: culinaria peruana en "Olla de Oro" (in Spanish). Consejo Nacional de Ciencia y Tecnología. 1988. p. 198. Retrieved 30 September 2018.
  36. ^ Valderrama, Mariano; Cavanagh, Jonathan (1996). El libro de oro de las comidas peruanas (in Spanish). Peru Reporting. ISBN 9789972639005. Retrieved 28 September 2018.
  37. ^ "Estos son los secos de chabelo más ricos de Piura". El Tiempo (in European Spanish). 10 August 2017. Retrieved 30 September 2018.
  38. ^ "Típico: ¿Cómo cocinar seco de chabelo?". La República (in Spanish). 10 August 2018. Retrieved 28 September 2018.
  39. ^ Acurio 2017, pp. 22–24.

Bibliography

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