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Toby Roberts

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Toby Roberts
Toby Roberts suspended by a rope at the 2022 European Championships
Toby Roberts in 2022
Personal information
NationalityBritish
Born (2005-03-15) 15 March 2005 (age 19)[1]
EducationEdgeborough School,[2] Surrey
King Edward's School,[3] Surrey
Height177 cm (5 ft 10 in)
Websitetobyroberts.co.uk Edit this at Wikidata
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
Known for
  • Youngest Briton to redpoint grade 8a, 8b, 9a
Medal record
Men's competition climbing
Representing  Great Britain
Olympics
Gold medal – first place Paris 2024 Combined
World Cup
Gold medal – first place Wujiang 2024 Lead
Gold medal – first place Laval 2023 Combined
Gold medal – first place Chamonix 2023 Lead
Gold medal – first place Brixen 2023 Boulder
Bronze medal – third place Chamonix 2024 Lead
Bronze medal – third place Innsbruck 2024 Lead
Bronze medal – third place Salt Lake City 2023 Boulder
Bronze medal – third place Edinburgh 2022 Lead

Toby Roberts (born 15 March 2005) is an English rock climber who specializes in competition climbing and in outdoor sport climbing. He is the youngest British climber to redpoint a 9a (5.14d)-graded sport climbing route, and in 2023 became the first British male climber to qualify for the Olympics. He became an Olympic gold medalist at the Paris 2024 games.

Early life and education

Roberts comes from Elstead, Surrey, the son of Tristian and Marina Roberts.[4]

Roberts attended Edgeborough School, an independent coeducational day preparatory school in Frensham (a village near Farnham) in Surrey, where he was introduced to climbing in 2013,[2] followed by King Edward's School, an independent boarding and day school in Wormley (a village near Witley), also in Surrey.[3]

Rock climbing

In 2015, at only ten years of age, he redpointed the historic 8a (5.13b) graded British sport climbing route, Raindogs, at Malham Cove in North Yorkshire.[5] In 2020, aged 15, Roberts became the youngest British climber to climb a 9a (5.14d) graded sport route when he redpointed Steve McClure's Rainshadow, also at Malham Cove.[5] In 2021, Roberts became the 12th climber to redpoint Ben Moon's historic sport route, Hubble, at Raven Tor (the world's first 8c+-graded route).[6][7]

Competition climbing

In June 2023, Roberts won his first gold medal in the competition bouldering discipline at the senior level.[8] In October 2023, aged 18, he became the first male British climber–and the second British climber after Shauna Coxsey–to earn a place in the Olympics for climbing by winning at the European Olympic Qualifier in Laval, France for the 2024 Olympics.[9][10] Roberts won gold for Great Britain in the sport climbing at the Paris Olympics in the Combined Boulder and Lead final.[11][12]

Rankings

Olympics

Combined

Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
2024 1 1
Total 1 1

IFSC World Cup[13]

Lead

Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
2022 1 1
2023 1 1
2024 1 3 4
Total 2 4 6

Boulder

Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
2023 1 1 2
Total 1 1 2

IFSC Climbing Youth World Championships[13]

Discipline 2022

Youth A

Boulder 2
Lead 2

Notable ascents

Redpointed routes

9a (5.14d):

  • Batman – Malham Cove (UK) – 2021. Became the youngest British climber to redpoint a 9a/+-graded route at age 16.[6]
  • Rainshadow – Malham Cove (UK) – 2020. Became the youngest British climber to redpoint a 9a-graded route at age 15.[6]

8c+ (5.14c):

Other:

  • Revelations 8b (5.13d) – Raven Tor (UK) – October 2016. Became the youngest British climber to redpoint an 8b-graded route at age 11 by repeating Jerry Moffatt's historic sport climbing route.[14]
  • Raindogs 8a (5.13b) – Malham Cove (UK) – October 2015. Became the youngest British climber to redpoint an 8a-graded route at age 10 by repeating the historic sport climbing route.[5][15]

See also

Wikimedia Commons has media related to Toby Roberts.
  • Will Bosi, British rock and competition climber

References

  1. ^ "Sport Climbing ROBERTS Toby". European Championships Munich 2022. Retrieved 2023-11-03.
  2. ^ a b "Toby climbs his way to the top". Farnham Herald. 27 July 2016. Retrieved 30 October 2023.
  3. ^ a b "Climbing Feat". King Edward's School, Witley. 17 December 2020. Retrieved 29 April 2024.
  4. ^ Peddy, Chris (3 April 2024). "Paris 2024: Team GB's first male Olympic sport climber Toby Roberts has sights on gold". BBC Sport. Retrieved 7 April 2024.
  5. ^ a b c Sterling, Sarah (9 December 2020). "Toby Roberts becomes youngest Brit to climb 9a". BMC. Retrieved 30 October 2023.
  6. ^ a b c d "Toby Roberts repeats Hubble at Raven Tor in England". PlanetMountain.com. 28 October 2021. Retrieved 31 December 2021.
  7. ^ a b "Toby Roberts is Strongest Brit You Probably Haven't Heard Of". Gripped.com. 28 October 2021. Retrieved 31 December 2021.
  8. ^ "Britain's teenage sensation Toby Roberts". Retrieved 1 November 2023.
  9. ^ "British teenager Roberts seals historic Olympic place". BBC Sport. 29 September 2023. Retrieved 30 October 2023.
  10. ^ Berry, Nathalie (29 October 2023). "Toby Roberts Qualifies for Paris 2024 Olympic Games in Laval". UK Climbing Magazine. Retrieved 30 October 2023.
  11. ^ "Teenager Roberts wins climbing gold for Team GB". BBC Sport. Retrieved 9 August 2024.
  12. ^ "Team GB teenager Toby Roberts secures climbing gold at Paris Olympics". Sky News. Retrieved 9 August 2024.
  13. ^ a b "Toby Roberts". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Retrieved 2024-07-02.
  14. ^ Berry, Nathalie (1 November 2016). "Revelations 8b by 11 year-old Toby Roberts". UK Climbing Magazine. Retrieved 30 October 2023.
  15. ^ Berry, Nathalie (27 October 2015). "Youngest Ascent of Raindogs 8a for 10 year-old Toby Roberts". UK Climbing Magazine. Retrieved 30 October 2023.
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