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U cumbitu

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U cumbitu 'i San Giuseppi (lit. 'Saint Joseph's banquet'), also known as u mmitu 'e San Giuseppe,[1][2] or u banquettu around Catanzaro,[3] is a custom in the Calabria region, southern Italy, in which lagane e ceci,[4][5] a pasta dish containing chickpeas,[6][7] is shared among families and neighbours on Saint Joseph's Day (19 March).[6]

History

[edit]
Zeppole are a dessert associated with Saint Joseph's Day across southern Italy.

U cumbitu may have emerged in the 20th century,[6] or have origins in Calabria's medieval feudal society.[2][7] On Saint Joseph's Day, rich families invited poorer people from their neighbourhood for a feast at their house.[3] Some of the guests would dress as the Holy Family,[3][4] sometimes extended to include Joachim and Anne, Mary's parents.[3] The hostess would kiss guests' hands in an act of reverence.[8] Lagane e ceci was served as the first dish,[6] followed by pan-fried cod and zeppole,[3] the dessert typically associated with Saint Joseph in Calabria.[9] The meal would take place in silence.[8] After the meal, guests would be given leftovers to take home to their relatives.[3][8]

Alternatively, beggars would walk the streets with a pan in their hands, clinking their spoons against the pan to warn almsgivers that they were arriving.[6] Reaching the house of someone reasonably well-off, they would hide their faces and receive a vuccata 'i San Giuseppi (transl. Saint Joseph's morsel),[3] consisting of the pasta, cod,[3][4] and sometimes dried figs.[3] Around Crotone, it was also common to donate loaves of bread to passers-by.[10]

U cumbitu notably suspended class structures in Calabria, which was particularly afflicted by poverty and hunger,[3] and was a symbol of social solidarity and fraternity.[4][10]

Contemporary celebrations

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Today,[when?] parishes and neighbourhoods in Calabria organise u cumbitu get-togethers, in which families exchange food that is blessed by the parish priest.[1][6] Elsewhere, families bring the dish to their neighbours, friends, and relatives. The custom is popular among Calabrian emigrant communities,[6] such as in Cinisello Balsamo, Lombardy,[6][11] where a Calabrian cultural association has organised an annual u cumbitu since the 2010s.[6] While the pasta was traditionally cooked in terracotta pignatta pots by a fireplace,[8] or prepared in pots in village alleys and squares,[2][9] from which anyone could help themselves to a portion,[2][10] the pasta is now typically cooked on gas stoves.[8]

Preparation

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A plate of lagane e ceci typical of Cosenza

Before u cumbitu, figs, zucchini, and peppers are sun-dried. Closer to Saint Joseph's Day, bread is prepared in a wood-fired oven, and chicory and fennel are harvested, while scarola and cabbages are picked.[8] Cod and dried chickpeas are soaked together overnight before the feast.[8][7]

The pasta traditionally used for the meal is lagane e ceci.[4][5] On the day of the meal,[7] the pasta is rolled out, dried,[2] then rolled up on itself and cut into strips.[2][7] The pasta is cooked for two to three minutes, then mixed with the chickpeas.[7] The meal is served with bread and wine.[8] Other dishes associated with u cumbitu include bean, lentil, chickpea, or Indian pea soup.[8]

References

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  1. ^ a b Ierardi, Filomena (19 March 2024). "U mmitu e San Giuseppe tra i quartieri petilini" [U mmitu and Saint Joseph's among the Petilini neighbourhoods]. Il Petilino (in Italian). Retrieved 10 April 2024.
  2. ^ a b c d e f "U 'mmitu 'e San Giuseppe, il gusto della tradizione calabrese" [U 'mmitu 'e San Giuseppe: The taste of Calabrian tradition]. Calabria Magnifica (in Italian). 11 March 2024. Retrieved 10 April 2024.
  3. ^ a b c d e f g h i j di Stilo, Umberto (16 March 2008). "'U Cumbitu 'i San Giuseppi". Galatro Terme News. Retrieved 9 April 2024.
  4. ^ a b c d e Gnisci, Annamaria (19 March 2023). "U Cumbitu: un antico e nobile gesto solidale" [U Cumbitu: An ancient and noble gesture of solidarity]. Calabria Magnifica (in Italian). Retrieved 9 April 2024.
  5. ^ a b "Pasta lagane e ceci: ricetta calabrese | Bottega di Calabria". Bottega di Calabria (in Italian). Retrieved 10 April 2024.
  6. ^ a b c d e f g h i ""U cumbitu", tradizione calabrese per San Giuseppe Storia di un gesto solidale esportato anche al Nord" ["U cumbitu", the Calabrian tradition for Saint Joseph's: Story of a gesture of solidarity also exported to the North]. Il Quotidiano del Sud (in Italian). 19 March 2019. Retrieved 8 April 2024.
  7. ^ a b c d e f Campana, Gino (18 March 2023). "I signori medievali, San Giuseppe e la magia de "U'mmitu"" [The medieval lords, Saint Joseph, and the magic of "U'mmitu"]. EcoDelloJonio.it (in Italian). Retrieved 10 April 2024.
  8. ^ a b c d e f g h i "The Saint Joseph Invitation (U Mmito): a time-honored tradition of Orsomarso". orsomarso.info. 10 June 2023. Retrieved 9 April 2024.
  9. ^ a b Bisciglia, Valeria (19 March 2021). "Food and wine in Calabria for the San Giuseppe's Day". Le Vie della Perla. Retrieved 9 April 2024.
  10. ^ a b c "Festa di San Giuseppe in Calabria: Il Ritratto di Un'antica Tradizione" [Feast of San Giuseppe in Calabria: The ancient tradition]. Turismo Calabria (in Italian). 6 March 2020. Retrieved 10 April 2024.
  11. ^ ""U cumbitu" (pasta e ceci) di San Giuseppe" [Saint Joseph's "U cumbitu" (pasta and chickpeas)]. BCC Milano (in Italian). 16 March 2024. Retrieved 9 April 2024.
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