User:Art Cooke

Simonstone Hall

Wensleydale

N. Yorkshire

Introduction

Simonstone Hall is a Country House, now a Hotel, built by the Wharncliffe family of Sheffield, as a ‘Shooting Box’ for family and guests, on their Upper Wensleydale Estates.

‘The house nestles into the great shoulder of Stag's Fell, whilst about two hundred yards from it, is the  famous waterfall, Hardraw Scaur, 100 feet high and a magnificent sight after some hours of rain'. Lady Caroline writes to her mother, Lady Erne, on August 19th 1812.

The prospect from the glorious heights of Simonstone is breathtaking; as seen by Dorothy Wordsworth's keen eye and painted with her felicitous pen, it is memorable. She and William had walked and ridden by horse or coach through Wensleydale several times, but of the journey they made in early October 1802, she writes in her Journal:- 'the bright silver stream inlaid the flat and very green meadows, winding like a serpent'... at other times 'it was lost among trees and little hills'. She sees the yellow light of Evening making the 'greenness a thousand times more green'. For her 'the trees form groves and screens and thence little openings upon recesses and concealed retreats', so that the broad dale is divided and half concealed, but always giving fascinating, tantalising glimpses.

But it is of the weather that one is always aware. And Wensleydale is the Dale in particular, because of it's breadth and length, where the weather provides the most tantalising glimpses - now you see, now you don't - here a farm nestling amongst its trees - there a group of sheep and cattle move slowly - now some cleft in the hills becomes a deep ravine and everwhere the green, green fields. Higher up the Dale, the bare hills - bronze, copper and saffron, their grey rocky heads brooding in the clouds, the skyline punctuated here and there by a tiny precarious black tree.

The Early Years

Once this wide panorama of field and fell formed part of the wealthy empire of the Abbots of Jervaulx - on these pastures ranged their renowed breed of stallions and mares. High Abbotside, a well wooded hunting ground; Low Abbotside, the site of the original 'Fors Abbey' and after the removal to lower, more hospitable ground, harbouring a Grange for the better conduct of the Abbey's business in wool and horses. Sheltering under the fell on High Abbotside lies a group of hamlets, Simonstone, High and Low Shaw - the first divided from the other two, only by the main road to Muker, a road which joins Wensleydale and Swaledale (now the ‘Buttertubs‘ Pass). On a piece of land called Abbot's Close, formerly kept for the Abbot's hay, the first small farm, which was to become Simonstone Hall, was built.

After the Dissolution of the Monasteries in 1539 these estates were granted to Mathew Stuart, Earl of Lennox and Margaret, his wife, niece to Henry VIII.

In 1544 it was called th'Abbot Close, 10 acres of meadow let to William Grimston at 23/4d. The Earl grew tired of his tenant's obstinacy - they were prone to litigation, re. their tenancies, so in August 1614, he sold it on. Owner’s in 1616-18 included Sir Thomas Smyther of East India Company fame.

In 1625 the Alleyn family acquired an Interest, through Edward Alleyn, the actor, and founder of Dulwich College. A deed of 1633 mentions ‘a mansion hall, or house, newly builded’ in Simonstone.

Sir John Lowther records that ‘in August 1636, I and my sone purchased Wensleydale, the two Alleyns parcels, which cost £2505. The Sedburgh School Register records John Lowther, on the death of his grandfather in 1675 becoming Viscount Lowther.

‘In July 1723, Henry 3rd Viscount Lonsdale sold the manor of Low Abbotside to Edward Wortley (Montague), the husband of the famous Lady Mary Montague’, according to the diary of Alex Fothergill. (Edward Wortley had been the British Ambassador to the Ottoman Empire in Constantinople, where Mary had witnessed how people were ‘innoculated’ against Smallpox, which method she is then credited with introducing to Britain).

In 1761 all the Wortley the estates in Yorkshire, Wortley, near Sheffield, and Wensleydale were left to his daughter Mary, the wife of John Stuart, the 3rd Earl of Bute (George III’s Prime Minister), before eventually devolving to James Archibald Stuart Wortley Mackenzie in 1797.

The initials C S on the front entrance of the Hall, dated 1733, are likely those of Cuthbert Stuart, who is buried alongside many others of his family at Hardraw. These Stuart’s were tenants for many years before the Wortley-Stuart family connection.

The Wharncliffes

A collection of letters edited by two of the Wharncliffe family published in 1927 as 'The First Lady Wharncliffe and her family' gives us a description, in 1812, of

'Mr. Wortley's beautiful property in Wensleydale. The house then (in 1812), only a farmhouse nestles into the great shoulder of Stag's Fell, whilst about two hundred yards from it, is the  famous waterfall, Hardraw Scaur, 100 feet high and a magnificent sight after some hours of rain'.

Lady Caroline writes to her mother (Lady Erne): Hawes, Tuesday night August 19th 1812.

'When I tell you what I have done to-day dearest Mama you will not be surprised at my being too tired to write a long letter; the boys and I set out this morning soon after nine with the Doge (nickname for her husband): and tho' we left him on the moors, were not home ourselves till 1/2 past two. I wish you had seen the order of march, it was excellent. The great Doge himself on a Piebald beast of this country. I upon another with a long tail & the boys on a third beast. Fancy the joy.! Thomas Hall & his horse, loaded with bags of provisions, powder and shot etc. the other Gamekeeper and his two sons on foot. In this manner we proceeded up a steep stony road till we got near the top of the mountain behind this house; we then turned off the road and enter'd upon the dangers of our expedition, crossing in all directions the wildest moor, thro' bogs and over swamps & holes on the top of the mountain from whence we had a magnificent view of the surrounding mountains & could see as far as the mountains of Westmorland lakes. The Keeper here was our guide & it was wonderful to see the way in which the horses pick'd their way & scrambled thro' the bad places. I was rather alarm'd once or twice, but tho' each of our horses got bogged & tumbled with us once, it served only as subjects of mirth, & I soon found there was no danger to apprehend.

About one o'clock it began to rain, so that the boys & I, after waiting till we were pretty wet, thought it best to come home. I was so wet in my feet & so chilly that I prefer'd the fatigue of walking to riding in such a pickle, accordingly walk I did, three long miles home up & down hill over the same sort of wild ground. I am so stiff this evening I can hardly move, but not otherwise the worse & very proud of myself’.

This letter and the following one, indicate that the Wharncliffes used Simonstone during the August (and September) shooting season. Their main home was Wortley Hall, in which Lady Caroline takes great delight, especially in the garden. They also spent much time in London, politics being a constant pre-occupation, as the many letters indicate. That, with long travels abroad, especially after 1815 filled a large part of their lives.

In a letter dated August 13, 1817 from Simonstone, Lady Caroline writes to her mother,

"We arrived here yesterday, about six o'clock, on the most dismal weather you can imagine, but the rain tho' almost constant for the last four hours was not heavy... After the first delight at the improvement to our chateau (1816) and the air of neatness and comfort in the rooms from painting and whitewashing, and the new dimity furniture, etc. . . fancy my dismay at finding that all the beds were as damp as possible... Luckily we had several hours before us, and by great activity, in which I took my full share, I accomplish'd getting three beds quite dry, one for ourselves, one in which John and Charles(sons) slept, and one which I laid on the floor in our room for Jem (James, the baby)... [Fortunately the room where Boon (Lady Wharncliffe's maid) and the maids slept was over the kitchen and quite warm] and the men slept out. To-day is beautifully fine and warm, we are all ALIVE AND WELL, after a good night, and the Doge and ALL the boys are gone onto the moors, where I trust they will have good sport...'.  

The other letters written from Simonstone show the dates as August. One in August 1819 describes the journey there. Lady Caroline is making arrangements for her mother to drive from Wharncliffe (about 5 or 6 miles from Sheffield) to Simonstone. 'The Doge insists on your using his horses, which will take you perfectly to Wakefield, as they will eat their corn whilst you are in church and being four will make nothing of the journey... You might reach Borough Bridge by nine o'clock, an excellent inn; but if you do not like going so far, you might stop at Wetherby and still reach us the next day for a late dinner....'  Lady Wharncliffe describes meal times elsewhere.... Breakfast at ten, dinner at three, tea and bread and butter between seven and eight, and supper at ten, though different days seem to have different meal times. In 1803 she describes that day... 'I dine alone at two (upon a neck of venison and a roast partridge) and eat a light supper with him when he comes home at eight, but she says... we now seldom dine before six o'clock so that I make a comfortable meal at the servant's dinner’. Other times are more erratic — sometimes they dine at four, sometimes at five, depending on what the Doge is doing. ‘One wonders about the cook's temper.’

The Wharncliffe Muniment at Sheffield contains documents, which present a picture of rural life at this time:-

from J.S. Stuart Wortley, Wortley Hall, Dec. 18th 1816 - Instructions to Mr. Calton (Coulton?) Under Steward to the Wensleydale property. On his general duties - he is immediately responsible to Mr. Bowns for anything he does not feel able to arrange himself - he is to oversee the Gamekeepers - be responsible for rents and payments for which he shall submit accounts. He is not allowed to engage himself as agent for election purposes to any person without our leave. His specific instructions are to examine the houses occupied by Miss Stuart and Mrs. Harrison and make estimates for complete repair, including the Hind's House (a Hind was a farm-servant, especially one having charge of a pair of horses, with a cottage on the farm) He is instructed to get an estimate for making a decent stable for 5 or 6 horses and two places for a carriage to stand, out of the present stables; to estimate the cost of turning the road going between the two gardens so as to carry it below the garden which is called Miss Stuart's to join the road somewhere by John Fawcetts. (The road was later made to pass behind the house). He is to bear in mind that (Mr. W.) wishes to have 5 master bedrooms and if possible a sitting room, besides Miss Stuart's present one, of nearly the same size.

Mr Coulton’s accounts submitted for 1817 show receipts of £1553.11.7 1/2 - among amounts received, there were Rents from Farms £1213.10.0; £100 from the Colliery,' Old Rents (presumably arrears) £48.4.5 1/2.  Incroachment Rents with Arrears of property Tax £6.13.4; Duty on Slate 1/8th of £45 = £5.12.6d,; Duty on Lead 1/5th of £293.6.6d = £48.17.9d (Earnings from Mines £54.10.3) His payments Total £1458.15.3 1/2, leaving £94.16.4d on Hand. So the year's income was around £850, after paying for the renovation of the Hall.

The Hall Restructured

In the 1880’s the Hall was extensively remodelled and extended.

Dinsdale's contract for building was dated May 19th 1883. On Jan 22nd 1884 a letter from Broderick, the Agent, reports the building is progressing - most of the timber of the roof has been put up. A statement of accounts dated August 13 1884 shows that Dinsdale's expenditure had been £2653.12.6d, with a balance still due of £751.13.10d, Total £3405.6.4d.

The Architects were Carpenter & Ingelow, Carlton Gardens, London, who had been the architects Hardraw Church, built in 1880 by Lord Wharncliffe, on land given by him and their letters paint a complete picture of what was done at this time.

Oct. 22nd 1884, there were to be changes in the road and the entrance gates. This letter also confirms that there were to be alterations to the staircase; it was to be panelled. His letter of Nov. 14 1884 submits designs for balusters like those at Canons Ashby, Sir Henry Dryden's seat. Herbert Carpenter, also, on Nov. 6th 1884 sends sample patterns for the ceilings as the cornices round the walls were not, as he had supposed, in plaster, but in wood, so that it was better for the ceilings to be in wood also, but later on Dec. 2nd 1884 come new estimates for ceilings, all different, in more elaborate patterns than before - the cost being £110 for the four rooms. In Feb 1884 he had submitted new estimates; the extra cost of the panelling being made like that in the Dining Room would be £17.5.6 (the previous estimate had been £295.0.0. Total £312.5.6.) but after deducting for woodwork already allowed, the new cost would be £285.8.6, so the cost of panelling and ceilings for the Ground Floor Rooms would be £395.8.6. He remarks that it is more reasonable than he had expected as there is a good deal more work in it. These estimates suggest that the Dining Room and the cornices in all the four rooms, were the original work put into Mr. Wortley's alterations in 1816. A note dated June 25th 1884 tells us what the staircase alterations were. In dealing with the heating by Mr. Reuben Gibbs of Liverpool, the architect suggests a possible saving; he writes, 'Gibbs proposes a coil in Hall (but) this perhaps hardly necessary as there is a coil already next the stairs, now to be opened into the Hall - so this £20 need not be incurred’. This letter of June 25th 1884 sends designs for Chimney Pieces - one for Lady Wharncliffe's room and one for her bedroom, as well as designs for two Chimney Pieces in Dressing Rooms. A memo from Inkpen (who appears to be another Agent) notes that on 29.12.84 the Plaster cornices in the bedrooms are done - the panelings of the ceilings in hand and the foundations of the stabling are put in. On May 3rd 1884 they are discussing the Insurance needed - Robert Wilmot of Malvern suggests £6000, which the architect thinks is excessive for house alone, as the thick external walls would be but little affected by a fire - so £5000 is decided upon, with £1000 for the Furniture. The previous house, he writes, had been insured for £600 with Liverpool & London Globe Office.

Augusts at Simonstone

From 1865/97 the Gamekeeper's Register lists the Guests whom the Wharncliffe's entertained each August at Simonstone - shooting parties composed of Royalty and High Political figures, as well as persons who received Grouse and other Game;  these being Artists - Sir Edward Poynter, Alma Tadema, Sir Edward Burne-Jones;  Theatrical Figures - George Grossmith, Du Maurier and D'Oyley Carte and Fashionable Figures like Lilly Langtry. They also kept Station Masters sweet - Grouse went to S.M.s at Leeds, Doncaster, Peterboro, Hawes and Hawes Jct. - to see that the Grouse went through promptly! The local Clergy received Grouse as well as the Archbishop of York - a relative. Game went several times to Disraeli, the Duke of Marlboro, Princess Mary and her mother, the Duchess of Teck. The Speaker (of the Commons) received 3 Brace of Grouse for three years - 1887, 1889 & 1890, whilst F. de Rothchild received the same number in 1893 and 1894.

The shooting parties for 1 week in August and 1 week in September included Lord Randolph Churchill, Viscount Castlereagh, several Lascelles, Army Captains, e.g. Alfred Duncombe (of the Feversham family), Viscount Barrington, Lord Windsor and many M.P.s and Ministers. After the Hall extensions, in 1885, the Guests lists were larger, e.g. In August 12/14 1885 there were the Earl of Euston (many times a guest, with a seat in Suffolk and Racing Stables in Norfolk), Viscount Newport, Lord Wenlock, Mr. E. Denison, Lord Elcho,, Hon. Sidney Herbert, John M.D. Scott, Earl of Yarborough, H. Stuart Wortley and the Host, Lord Wharncliffe.

One day in August - 15th 1877 seems to have been Ladies' Day; they went fishing, Lady Castlereagh, Countess of Wharncliffe and the Hon. Mrs. Talbot, a relative. Between them they caught 56 Crayfish and the Gamekeeper's comment alongside is ‘ooray'. The weather is recorded too - 1891, August 24th, - The Gale and rain increased considerably on Monday night, all the Valley was inundated and Hawes unapproachable on foot - the storm raged incessantly the 25th and abated somewhat on the 26th, but no driving could be thought of. Thursday, the 27th was a calm day - first rate for driving. In 1889 and again in 1892 Prince (and Duke) of Teck, father of Queen Mary, was a guest at Simonstone, with Major Hon. M. Curzon of the party - another occasion when there was fearful weather - August 13th 1892 was too wet and stormy to shoot.

In the Wharncliffe Archives are letters from George Grossmith, the comedian, and Lillie Langtry, the actress, writing thanks for Grouse. On August 19th 1878 he had received 6 Brace of Grouse from Simonstone, - he writes from 12, St. Augustine's Road N.W., August 22nd. 1878:-

    'Dear Lord Wharncliffe, I hope you will forgive me for not having acknowledged the receipt of your kind note. Believe me I am much obliged to Lady Wharncliffe and your self reflecting the Polka. It is in the hands of the publisher. I am also so pleased in anticipation of Grouse that I am not at all certain that I shall not change by name to Grousesmith. If there is not sufficient for my cousins, sisters, aunts, I am sure there will be enough for Mrs. Grossmith, who with myself will thoroughly appreciate the gift'.

                 Believe me my dear Lord Wharncliffe

                      Yours faithfully,

                       Geo. Grossmith.

There are several letters from Lillie Langtry, ‘Jersey Lily’, also known for her relationships with noblemen, including the Prince of Wales, the Earl of Shrewsbury, and Prince Louis of Battenberg.

She wrote to Lord Warncliffe from Portalet, St. Aubins, Jersey - dated 1880 -

'Dear Lord Wharncliffe,

Your letter was only forwarded to me yesterday with a quantity of other letters which have been lying in Norfolk St. since I left - I had been wondering so much why you had never written a line - I was very sorry not to see you before I left town - I am enjoying a quiet country life with my brother and his wife in the latter's cottage. It is far in the country and perched right over the sea, which is certainly bluer than any sea I ever saw and the surrounding hills are red with the most brilliant heather. It is dreadfully hot and I am writing this in a hammock on the verandah in a bewitching blue and red bathing costume with nice Greek sandals. Alice and I have an assortment of them and have abandoned petticoats entirely. Don't be shocked as there isn't a soul to see us and as we row swim and fish all day long we find t infinitely more comfortable. We have all sorts of fishing appliances and get every sort of fish and shell fish but great red mullets are the most plentiful & lobster - Have you been at Simonstone this year... Ld. Manners sent us grouse once or twice so if you are shooting do likewise. I am going to write to Prince Louis also today about Mr. Frank Wortley and will say a word to the P of W if you like. Write to me - and with love to Lady W.

Yours. very truly

Lillie Langtry (signed)

P.S. Encourage people to believe that Mr. L - is here (Mr. Langtry?)

Mr. Frank Wortley must be Francis John - the first Earl's nephew, who became the 2nd Earl. It would appear that Prince Louis (of Battenburg) was to be asked to provide some place for him - possibly a naval appointment.

Lillie Langtry received 6 Brace ofGrouse in 1881 - the next year and the Gamekeeper’s note for that year reads ‘biggest bag since 1872'.

There had been no Guests in 1873 and only two or three in 1874. The notes for 1884 explain:- Aug 17th Very few birds indeed - Aug 12/15th More birds than I expected - most on Cotter Drive from Coal Sike. He continues ‘This was a very good breeding season which helped the birds to recover from the disease. There were more than we expected on this end of the moor considering that the disease almost exterminated them the year before. No signs of disease and some prospects for 1875 if there is a good breeding season’.

There is another 6 Brace of Grouse for her in 1883 and her letter of thanks has no address -

Saturday, 1883

'Dear Ld. Wharncliffe,

I am delighted to taste Grouse (Simonstone Grouse) once more no need to say how superior to any other.  I am off to Glasgow to-night at one thirty after two performances. 134 Albermarle St. Is a permanent address. Is Miss Chamberlain still the Tum Tum’s favourite? The American idea is that the Princess is to be divorced in order that Miss C. may eventually 'reign' over us 'legitimately'. Isn’t that American? His American Title is 'Wicked Prince Albert'.

Adieu in haste of course

Yours very truly

Lillie Langtry.

(Tum Tum was one of the nicknames for the Prince of Wales and Albert was one of his numerous names).

References:

’Under Stag’s Fell’ by Hilda M. Snowden, Pub. 1989

A look at Simonstone and it’s Owners.

’The First Lady Wharncliffe and her Family’, Pub. 1927.

Letters edited by Caroline Grosvenor & Charles Beilby.

The Wharncliffe Archive, Sheffield