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==Reputation==
==Reputation==
Schwa has received positive reviews from the ''[[Chicago Sun-Times]]'', ''[[Chicago Tribune]]'', and ''[[GQ]]'', among others.<ref name="MostWanted" /><ref name="StarPower" /><ref name="GQ" /> In 2006, Phil Vettel of the ''Chicago Tribune'' described the food as four-star quality, while giving the restaurant an overall rating of three stars because of below-average service. Vettel added that nearly every item on the menu is "wonderful."<ref name="StarPower" /> Vettel returned to Schwa after the 2008 relaunch and concluded "Schwa is at least as good as it was in its early days, and probably better."<ref name="Revisit" /> He credited Carlson's increased focus on the dinning room for the improvement, and maintained Schwa's three-star rating.<ref name="Revisit" />
Schwa has received positive reviews from the ''[[Chicago Sun-Times]]'', ''[[Chicago Tribune]]'', and ''[[GQ]]'', among others.<ref name="MostWanted" /><ref name="StarPower" /><ref name="GQ" /> In 2006, Phil Vettel of the ''Chicago Tribune'' described the food as four-star quality, while giving the restaurant an overall rating of three stars (out of four) because of below-average service. Vettel added that nearly every item on the menu is "wonderful."<ref name="StarPower" /> Vettel returned to Schwa after the 2008 relaunch and concluded "Schwa is at least as good as it was in its early days, and probably better."<ref name="Revisit" /> He credited Carlson's increased focus on the dinning room for the improvement, and maintained Schwa's three-star rating.<ref name="Revisit" />


Writing for the ''Daily Hearld'', Jennifer Olvera wrote that Schwa's original menu was "a culinary affair" and that seafood-lovers will leave Schwa "gushing."<ref name="EyeCatching" /> She described dishes as "refreshing and interesting," "visually stunning," and "[begging] to be savored," however she was not completely satisfied.<ref name="EyeCatching" /> She found the portions to be small and pricey, and the service to be rather poor, bordering on rude. "They need to get past the pomp and focus on the issue at hand," she said.<ref name="EyeCatching" />
Writing for the ''Daily Hearld'', Jennifer Olvera wrote that Schwa's original menu was "a culinary affair" and that seafood-lovers will leave Schwa "gushing."<ref name="EyeCatching" /> She described dishes as "refreshing and interesting," "visually stunning," and "[begging] to be savored," however she was not completely satisfied.<ref name="EyeCatching" /> She found the portions to be small and pricey, and the service to be rather poor, bordering on rude. "They need to get past the pomp and focus on the issue at hand," she said.<ref name="EyeCatching" />


Writing about Schwa's post-relaunch menu, [[Metromix]] dining producer Chris LaMorte writes, "It's [even] better now – dishes are more focused, yet still inventive. Presentation is better. Quality is more consistent. Chef-servers are (slightly) more approachable."<ref name="Metromix" /> LaMorte did find some fault during his visit, though, describing the china as "monotonous" and saying the chef-waiters "always dash off too quickly."<ref name="Metromix" /> Martha Bayne of ''[[Chicago Reader]]'', also writing about the post-relaunch menu, agreed saying, "the food is better than ever."<ref name="ChiReader">{{cite web|title=Our Review: Schwa|author=Martha Bayne|url=http://www.chicagoreader.com/chicago/schwa/Location?oid=1023553|accessdate=December 8, 2009}}</ref> Bayne called the food "legendary," but did say the pad Thai made with jellyfish noodles didn't "quite live up to their promise." Her favorite dish of the night was the sweetbreads dessert, which she described as "salty, savory, sweet, and deliriously complex, it shoots for the moon and succeeds by confounding every expectation."<ref name="ChiReader" /> Alan Richman of ''GQ'' writes "I did not taste one bite of food... that was prepared imprecisely... plates are filled with flavors out to the edge of the rim."<ref name="GQ" />
Writing about Schwa's post-relaunch menu, [[Metromix]] dining producer Chris LaMorte writes, "It's [even] better now – dishes are more focused, yet still inventive. Presentation is better. Quality is more consistent. Chef-servers are (slightly) more approachable."<ref name="Metromix" /> LaMorte did find some fault during his visit, though, describing the china as "monotonous" and saying the chef-waiters "always dash off too quickly."<ref name="Metromix" /> Martha Bayne of ''[[Chicago Reader]]'', also writing about the post-relaunch menu, agreed saying, "the food is better than ever."<ref name="ChiReader">{{cite web|title=Our Review: Schwa|author=Martha Bayne|url=http://www.chicagoreader.com/chicago/schwa/Location?oid=1023553|accessdate=December 8, 2009}}</ref> Bayne called the food "legendary," but did say the pad Thai made with jellyfish noodles didn't "quite live up to their promise." Her favorite dish of the night was the sweetbreads dessert, which she described as "salty, savory, sweet, and deliriously complex, it shoots for the moon and succeeds by confounding every expectation."<ref name="ChiReader" />

''[[Chicago (magazine)|Chicago]]'' magazine gives Schwa three-and-a-half stars (out of four), saying "Count on OK service but brilliant food."<ref>{{cite web|title=Dining Guide: Schwa|work=[[Chicago (magazine)|Chicago]]|publisher=[[Tribune Company]]|url=http://www.chicagomag.com/Chicago-Magazine/Dining/Dining-Guide/index.php?listing=34011|accessdate=December 12, 2009}}</ref> [[Alan Richman]] of ''GQ'' writes "I did not taste one bite of food... that was prepared imprecisely... plates are filled with flavors out to the edge of the rim."<ref name="GQ" />


In 2006, Schwa was listed as one of Chicago's hottest eating spots by ''[[Nation's Restaurant News]]''.<ref>{{cite news|title=What’s Hot In: Chicago|author=Carolyn Walkup|date=November 13, 2006|work=[[Nation's Restaurant News]]|url=http://www.nrn.com/article.aspx?id=324832|accessdate=December 12, 2009}}</ref> In 2008, ''[[The New York Times]]'' profiled Schwa as one of a handful of restaurants employing an innovative chef-client relationship.<ref name="NYTimes">{{cite news|title=Your Waiter Tonight... Will Be the Chef|first=Julia|last=Moskin|date=March 12, 2008|accessdate=December 2, 2009|newspaper=[[The New York Times]]|url=http://www.nytimes.com/2008/03/12/dining/12waiter.html}}</ref>
In 2006, Schwa was listed as one of Chicago's hottest eating spots by ''[[Nation's Restaurant News]]''.<ref>{{cite news|title=What’s Hot In: Chicago|author=Carolyn Walkup|date=November 13, 2006|work=[[Nation's Restaurant News]]|url=http://www.nrn.com/article.aspx?id=324832|accessdate=December 12, 2009}}</ref> In 2008, ''[[The New York Times]]'' profiled Schwa as one of a handful of restaurants employing an innovative chef-client relationship.<ref name="NYTimes">{{cite news|title=Your Waiter Tonight... Will Be the Chef|first=Julia|last=Moskin|date=March 12, 2008|accessdate=December 2, 2009|newspaper=[[The New York Times]]|url=http://www.nytimes.com/2008/03/12/dining/12waiter.html}}</ref>

Revision as of 01:20, 13 December 2009

Schwa is an acclaimed, upscale restaurant run by chef-owner Michael Carlson in Chicago, USA. Opened in 2005, it features innovative food and an unconventional approach to running a restaurant. Schwa's simple table settings match the building's drab exterior, and the restaurant employs no support staff of any kind. Chefs interact directly with customers and are encouraged to act as silly as they wish, as long as they produce top quality food. Schwa has a storied history, including an abrupt four-month hiatus that began the day after it hosted a gathering of world-famous chefs.

Schwa's food is difficult to classify, or as one critic put it the food is "one of a kind... earnest, innocent, irresistible, and imaginative." Schwa's menu is famous for shocking ingredients and innovative food combinations. Schwa has received positive reviews from both local and national critics.

Description

Schwa is a tiny, 825 square feet (76.6 m2) restaurant located in the Wicker Park neighborhood of Chicago, Illinois.[1] It features what chef Michael Carlson describes as a "pared-down" approach to food and has been described as being on the forefront of a new "molecular gastronomy" style of cooking. The menu is short and constantly changing.[2] Writing for the Chicago Sun Times, Allecia Vemillion calls dinner at Schwa "a window into Carlson's own brain – laser-focused on food with little time for anything else."[3] Unlike typical upscale restaurants, Schwa does not have a wine list, a liquor license, or even stemware.[4]

The pared-down approach can also been seen in the way the business is run. Carlson maintains a staff of only four people to run his restaurant – himself and three other chefs. Schwa has no receptionist, waiters, or other support staff.[3] Schwa's chefs do every job in the restaurant ranging from taking orders to busing tables.[3] Tables are simple and have none of the usual restaurant amenities – no flowers, candles, salt, or pepper.[1] The decor is minimalist, and the kitchen is viewable by patrons in the dinning room.[2] Even the building is minimalistic. One observer described it as "so understated that [it] is easy to miss even when one is looking for it,"[4] while another said "Pass by and you might think it's the home of a batty husband and wife who rarely go outside."[1] Schwa is surrounded by dingy buildings and a tire store, complete with plastic palm trees.[5][1]

Schwa's trademark dish – Quail Egg Ravioli

In line with in minimalistic tendencies, Schwa serves a maximum of 32 customers a night (often leaving the dining room half empty), with staggered timing so that only one table is ordering at any time.[6][5] Arriving guests are typically greeted with Carlson's trademark "How you cats doing tonight?" salutation.[6] He enjoys casual interaction with his customers, using adjectives like "awesome" and "badass" to describe his dishes.[3] Instead of the soft background music typical of an upscale restaurant, guests are treated to loud hip-hop or heavy metal music.[5] Most customers appreciate the personal attention and unusual atmosphere, calling it a "a nice change from all the corporate restaurants."[6]

The only complaint customers seem to have with Schwa is that it is virtually impossible to get a reservation. GQ magazine describes a typical customer as having spent weeks trying to get past the always full answering machine that serves as Schwa's main reservation system.[1] One couple got so frustrated with the system that they drove down to the restaurant to make a reservation in person. Upon arrival, they were told they had to call it in. Despite their frustration, the couple kept trying and when they finally got in they remarked, "You know what? It was worth it."[1] According to Carlson, most customers' first comment when they arrive at Schwa is either to complain about how difficult it was to get a reservation or to ask for another one.[1]

The work environment at Schwa's is also relaxed. Carlson allows his employees to act goofy and talk however they like, as long as they produce high-quality food.[1] There is no dress code; one reporter remarked that the staff looked like a bunch of ecoterrorists.[1] Carlson and his all-male staff work long hours (16–18 hour workdays) for below-average pay.[1]

According to Carlson, Schwa struggles to break even most weeks. Salaries at Schwa are modest, but food costs make up an astronomical 60% of the take-in.[1] Carlson has said he would rather cook and run his restaurant the way he wants than make money.[5]

Schwa is open for dinner only Tuesday–Saturday, and is closed on Sunday and Monday.[7] It does not offer carryout.[2]

History

See also: Charlie Trotter's Anniversary celebration

In the fall of 2005, chef Michael Carlson was approached by a friend who owned a small restaurant named Lovitt.[8] The friend was moving out of state and offered to Carlson his location and equipment for a bargain price.[9] With financial support from his father, Carlson took over Lovitt and renamed the restaurant after the neutral, unstressed vowel schwa (ə), a name he says reflects his "pared-down" approach to food.[3]

Schwa opened September 10, 2005, with Carlson promising unstressed food and a laidback attitude.[10] Carlson said his aim with Schwa was to "push the culinary envelope,"[10] while using seasonal, organic ingredients.[2] The Chicago Tribune noted Schwa's initial menu did just, featuring "a soft-boiled organic egg coated in brioche, served with potato puree and Illinois sturgeon caviar."[10] Schwa quickly attracted national press attention and earned a reputation for great food and an innovative chef-customer relationship, resulting in a three-month waiting list for reservations.[3][7] One critic said Schwa was "all about casual sophistication"[2], while described it as "Alinea's punk-rock little brother."[7]

A Schwa original dish, combing oysters with oatmeal and raisins

On October 5, 2007, Carlson hosted an all-star gathering of world-famous chefs at Schwa as part of Charlie Trotter's 20th anniversary celebration. The evening was a success, but the next morning Carlson abruptly closed Schwa "indefinitely" and left town.[3][11] Carlson later explained that he had burned out from working too hard and needed a break.[5] Schwa was also low on cash and struggling to keep the bills paid. [1]

After Schwa closed, about ten different Chicago restaurant owners offered to help Carlson get back on his feet. Carlson declined their help, but reopened Schwa four months later in mid-February 2008, thanks in part to a cash infusion from his father.[1] Carlson hired an additional chef, allowing him to focus more of his attention on the dining room.[12] Customers quickly returned, and by May it was routine for the restaurant's voice mail to reach capacity because of the large number of people trying to get reservations (and the restaurant's lack of a receptionist).[3] Shortly after its relaunch, one food critic described Schwa as even better than before, saying it was an "Oscar-worthy redemption story."[7]

Later in 2008, Michelle Obama ate at the restaurant. Carlson joked that it was good thing that Barack didn't join her because "I don't think the twenty extra Secret Service agents needed would have fit."[1]

Schwa nine course menu, circa 2007

Schwa offers a three-course dinner for $55 and a eight- to ten-course "degustation" (taster) menu for $110.[1] Approximately 85% of customers prefer the nine-course options, as it is officially called.[12] Add-ons are also available. The latter option could be described as "chef's choice" – on any given night, Carlson prepares eight to ten courses of his choosing which make up the degustation menu for that evening.[4] Portions are said to be "small and intentionally artful.[2] Dishes available change frequently, as Carlson becomes bored and moves on to something new. "If he's bored with something, no matter how many people love it and demand it, he's done with it," notes Carlson's girlfriend.[1]

The menu at Schwa's is hard to classify. Schwa chef Jonathan Ory describes it as "modern American", but sous-chef Gaetano Nardulli disagrees: "I don't think it's contemporary American, not at all."[1] Food critic Alan Richman describes it as "one of a kind... earnest, innocent, irresistible, and imaginative."[1] The menu is famous for using sophisticated ingredients to create, as one critic put it, "poetic courses."[3] Shocking ingredients such as jellyfish, roe, tongue, and offal are found in a large number of dishes, as are unusual combinations such as oysters and oatmeal.[1] However, Schwa is perhaps best known for Carlson's simple, modern interpretation of Italian classics. Among the most popular dishes is the quail egg ravioli.[3] Considered the restaurant's signature dish, it consists of a single ravioli stuffed with quail egg yolk and laced with truffle butter.[1] Most dishes are served with purées.[1]

Also among Schwa's best known dishes is the sweetbread dessert.[1] Combining caramelized sweetbreads with vanilla bean-parsnip custard, the dish has been described as "unequivocally adored."[1] Other notable dishes include pad Thai made with jellyfish instead of noodles, "pine cones" (sea urchin ice cream served in pine-flavored cones), and something Carlson calls "onion glue."[7][12] Innovative drinks, such as beet juice flavored with bacon, are also available.[12] However, Schwa doesn't serve bread or wine.[5] Customers wishing wine are required to bring their own, although Carlson will offer suggestions of what to bring upon request.[7]

The casual environment at Schwa attracts a diverse clientele, including many local chefs.[1] Carlson says he doesn't care about etiquette or attire, but will not tolerate rudeness. "If anybody acts as though they expect to be catered to, they’re in the wrong place," he says.[1] Carlson adds that he's not afraid to tell a customer off if they deserve it. One reporter observed that Schwa couldn't possibly "do less to preselect customers or filter out undesirable ones."[1] Schwa does not cater to families, offering no highchairs and few tables capable of seating more than two people.[2]

Reputation

Schwa has received positive reviews from the Chicago Sun-Times, Chicago Tribune, and GQ, among others.[3][4][1] In 2006, Phil Vettel of the Chicago Tribune described the food as four-star quality, while giving the restaurant an overall rating of three stars (out of four) because of below-average service. Vettel added that nearly every item on the menu is "wonderful."[4] Vettel returned to Schwa after the 2008 relaunch and concluded "Schwa is at least as good as it was in its early days, and probably better."[12] He credited Carlson's increased focus on the dinning room for the improvement, and maintained Schwa's three-star rating.[12]

Writing for the Daily Hearld, Jennifer Olvera wrote that Schwa's original menu was "a culinary affair" and that seafood-lovers will leave Schwa "gushing."[2] She described dishes as "refreshing and interesting," "visually stunning," and "[begging] to be savored," however she was not completely satisfied.[2] She found the portions to be small and pricey, and the service to be rather poor, bordering on rude. "They need to get past the pomp and focus on the issue at hand," she said.[2]

Writing about Schwa's post-relaunch menu, Metromix dining producer Chris LaMorte writes, "It's [even] better now – dishes are more focused, yet still inventive. Presentation is better. Quality is more consistent. Chef-servers are (slightly) more approachable."[7] LaMorte did find some fault during his visit, though, describing the china as "monotonous" and saying the chef-waiters "always dash off too quickly."[7] Martha Bayne of Chicago Reader, also writing about the post-relaunch menu, agreed saying, "the food is better than ever."[13] Bayne called the food "legendary," but did say the pad Thai made with jellyfish noodles didn't "quite live up to their promise." Her favorite dish of the night was the sweetbreads dessert, which she described as "salty, savory, sweet, and deliriously complex, it shoots for the moon and succeeds by confounding every expectation."[13]

Chicago magazine gives Schwa three-and-a-half stars (out of four), saying "Count on OK service but brilliant food."[14] Alan Richman of GQ writes "I did not taste one bite of food... that was prepared imprecisely... plates are filled with flavors out to the edge of the rim."[1]

In 2006, Schwa was listed as one of Chicago's hottest eating spots by Nation's Restaurant News.[15] In 2008, The New York Times profiled Schwa as one of a handful of restaurants employing an innovative chef-client relationship.[6]

References

  1. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t u v w x y z aa ab Alan Richman (February 2009). "Kitchen Savant". GQ. Retrieved December 4, 2009.
  2. ^ a b c d e f g h i j Jennifer Olvera (November 18, 2005). "Dishes eye-catching, but prices a bit steep at Schwa". Daily Herald. p. 25, TIME OUT! section. Retrieved December 12, 2009.
  3. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k Vermillion, Allecia (May 14, 2008). "Chicago's Most Wanted: SCHWA | Be flexible about mealtime, and you, too, can get into this hot spot". Chicago Sun-Times. Retrieved December 1, 2009.
  4. ^ a b c d e Vettel, Phil (April 6, 2006). "Schwa's star power: It's a foodie's dream; just don't expect stellar service". Chicago Tribune. Retrieved December 2, 2009.
  5. ^ a b c d e f Phil Vettel; Monica Eng (February 13, 2008). "Big night. Big mystery". Chicago Tribune. Retrieved December 4, 2009.
  6. ^ a b c d Moskin, Julia (March 12, 2008). "Your Waiter Tonight... Will Be the Chef". The New York Times. Retrieved December 2, 2009.
  7. ^ a b c d e f g h Chris LaMorte (February 17, 2008). "Another Look: Schwa - The city's best BYOB is reborn". Metromix. Tribune Co. and Gannett. Retrieved December 7, 2009.
  8. ^ "Being Schwa". Art Culinaire. Thomson Gale. June 22, 2007. Retrieved December 8, 2009. {{cite news}}: Italic or bold markup not allowed in: |work= (help)
  9. ^ "Interview with Best New Chef Michael Carlson". Food & Wine. July 2006. Retrieved December 6, 2009.
  10. ^ a b c Chris LaMorte; Terri Mooney (August 31, 2005). "Ready to pop!; Cork gets set to open, plus more new spots". Chicago Tribune. Retrieved December 9, 2009.
  11. ^ Eng, Monica (October 9, 2007). "Schwa serves what may be its last meal". Chicago Tribune. Retrieved December 4, 2009.
  12. ^ a b c d e f Phil Vettel (May 15, 2008). "Schwa, Green Zebra: 3 stars". Metromix Chicago. Tribune Co. and Gannett. Retrieved December 12, 2009. {{cite web}}: Cite has empty unknown parameter: |1= (help)
  13. ^ a b Martha Bayne. "Our Review: Schwa". Retrieved December 8, 2009.
  14. ^ "Dining Guide: Schwa". Chicago. Tribune Company. Retrieved December 12, 2009.
  15. ^ Carolyn Walkup (November 13, 2006). "What's Hot In: Chicago". Nation's Restaurant News. Retrieved December 12, 2009.

Further reading

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