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Chacraraju: Difference between revisions

Coordinates: 8°59′36″S 77°36′54″W / 8.993261°S 77.614975°W / -8.993261; -77.614975
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'''Chacraraju'''<ref name=":0">{{Cite book|title=Alpenvereinskarte 0/3a. Cordillera Blanca Nord (Peru). 1:100 000|publisher=Oesterreichischer Alpenverein|year=2005|isbn=3-928777-57-2}}</ref><ref name=":2">{{Cite book|title=The Andes: A Guide for Climbers and Skiers|last=Biggar|first=John|date=2020|publisher=Andes|isbn=9780953608768|pages=83|language=en}}</ref><ref name=":1">{{Cite book|title=Peru 1:100 000, Corongo (18-h)|publisher=IGN (Instituto Geográfico Nacional - Perú)}}</ref><ref name="mincetur">{{cite web|url=http://www.mincetur.gob.pe/TURISMO/OTROS/inventario%20turistico/Ficha.asp?cod_Ficha=4643|title=Nevado Chacraraju|website=Inventario Turístico del Perú|publisher=MINCETUR|language=es|author=<!--Staff writer(s); no by-line.-->|access-date=June 28, 2016|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160812141107/http://www.mincetur.gob.pe/TURISMO/OTROS/inventario%20turistico/Ficha.asp?cod_Ficha=4643|archive-date=August 12, 2016}}</ref> or '''Chakraraju'''<ref name=":3">{{Cite book|title=Yuraq Janka: A Guide to the Peruvian Andes|last=Ricker|first=John|publisher=The Mountaineers Books|year=1977|isbn=9781933056708|pages=76}}</ref> (possibly from [[Quechua language|Quechua]] ''[[Chakra (Quechua)|chakra]]'' little farm; [[Field (agriculture)|field]], land sown with seed, ''rahu'' snow, ice, mountain with snow)<ref name=laime>Teofilo Laime Ajacopa, Diccionario Bilingüe Iskay simipi yuyayk'ancha, La Paz, 2007 (Quechua-Spanish dictionary)</ref><ref>[http://lema.rae.es/drae/?val=chacra lema.rae.es] Diccionario de la lengua española, retrieved on October 21, 2013</ref><ref>{{Cite web |url=http://traductor.babylon.com/quechua/a-ingles/rahu/ |title=babylon.com |access-date=2013-10-21 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20141229085317/http://traductor.babylon.com/quechua/a-ingles/rahu/ |archive-date=2014-12-29 |url-status=dead }}</ref> is a mountain in the [[Cordillera Blanca]] in the [[Andes]] mountain range of [[Peru]]. The mountain has two distinctive [[Summit|peaks]]: Chacraraju Oeste (west summit; {{convert|6108|m|ft|0}}) and Chacraraju Este (east summit; {{convert|6001|m|ft|0}}).<ref name=":3" /> Chacraraju is located in the [[Ancash Region]], [[Huaylas Province]], [[Caraz District]], and in the [[Yungay Province]], [[Yungay District]].<ref>escale.minedu.gob.pe - UGEL map of the Huaylas Province (Ancash Region)</ref> It lies south and southeast of [[Pirámide (Peru)|Pirámide]]. [[Lake Parón]] and the little Lake Chacra lie northwest of the mountain.<ref name=":0" /> The peak is accessible from the [[Nevado Pisco|Pisco]] base camp at Cebollapampa.<ref name=":2" />
'''Chacraraju'''<ref name=":0">{{Cite book|title=Alpenvereinskarte 0/3a. Cordillera Blanca Nord (Peru). 1:100 000|publisher=Oesterreichischer Alpenverein|year=2005|isbn=3-928777-57-2}}</ref><ref name=":2">{{Cite book|title=The Andes: A Guide for Climbers and Skiers|last=Biggar|first=John|date=2020|publisher=Andes|isbn=9780953608768|pages=83|language=en}}</ref><ref name=":1">{{Cite book|title=Peru 1:100 000, Corongo (18-h)|publisher=IGN (Instituto Geográfico Nacional - Perú)}}</ref><ref name="mincetur">{{cite web|url=http://www.mincetur.gob.pe/TURISMO/OTROS/inventario%20turistico/Ficha.asp?cod_Ficha=4643|title=Nevado Chacraraju|website=Inventario Turístico del Perú|publisher=MINCETUR|language=es|author=<!--Staff writer(s); no by-line.-->|access-date=June 28, 2016|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160812141107/http://www.mincetur.gob.pe/TURISMO/OTROS/inventario%20turistico/Ficha.asp?cod_Ficha=4643|archive-date=August 12, 2016}}</ref> or '''Chakraraju'''<ref name=":3">{{Cite book|title=Yuraq Janka: A Guide to the Peruvian Andes|last=Ricker|first=John|publisher=The Mountaineers Books|year=1977|isbn=9781933056708|pages=76}}</ref> (possibly from [[Quechua language|Quechua]] ''[[Chakra (Quechua)|chakra]]'' little farm; [[Field (agriculture)|field]], land sown with seed, ''rahu'' snow, ice, mountain with snow)<ref name=laime>Teofilo Laime Ajacopa, Diccionario Bilingüe Iskay simipi yuyayk'ancha, La Paz, 2007 (Quechua-Spanish dictionary)</ref><ref>[http://lema.rae.es/drae/?val=chacra lema.rae.es] Diccionario de la lengua española, retrieved on October 21, 2013</ref><ref>{{Cite web |url=http://traductor.babylon.com/quechua/a-ingles/rahu/ |title=babylon.com |access-date=2013-10-21 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20141229085317/http://traductor.babylon.com/quechua/a-ingles/rahu/ |archive-date=2014-12-29 |url-status=dead }}</ref> is a mountain in the [[Cordillera Blanca]] in the [[Andes]] mountain range of [[Peru]]. The mountain has two distinctive [[Summit|peaks]]: Chacraraju Oeste (west summit; {{convert|6108|m|ft|0}}) and Chacraraju Este (east summit; {{convert|6001|m|ft|0}}).<ref name=":3" /> Chacraraju is located in [[Huaylas Province]], [[Department of Ancash|Ancash]].<ref>escale.minedu.gob.pe - UGEL map of the Huaylas Province (Ancash Region)</ref> It is located south and southeast of [[Pirámide (Peru)|Pirámide]] and east of [[Lake Parón]].<ref name=":0" /> The peak is accessible from the [[Nevado Pisco|Pisco]] base camp at Cebollapampa.<ref name=":2" />


⚫
Chacraraju is considered the steepest and the most difficult-to-climb six-thousander in the Andes.<ref name="CathyJohn2001">{{cite book | author1=Cathy Biggar | author2=John Biggar | title=The Andes: A Trekking Guide | url=https://books.google.com/books?id=-rAnnaEjo8kC&pg=PA61 | access-date=26 January 2013 | date=21 May 2001 | publisher=Andes | isbn=978-0-9536087-1-3 | pages=61 }}</ref> A French expedition led by [[Lionel Terray]] first climbed the mountain on 31 July 1956 (Chakrarahu Oeste) and on 5 August 1962 (Chakrarahu Este) using what have since become the normal routes (northeast face and northeast ridge). [[Greg Mortimer]] was badly injured during a later attempt to climb the mountain.<ref>{{cite web | url = http://www.abc.net.au/tv/talkingheads/txt/s2698247.htm | title = Interview with Greg Mortimer (ABC1 Monday 6:30pm) | publisher = Australian Broadcasting Corporation (ABC) | date = 2009-10-05 | access-date = 2012-01-26 }}</ref>
==Climbing==
Chakrarahu is considered the steepest and the most difficult-to-climb [[six-thousander]] in the Andes.<ref name="CathyJohn2001">{{cite book | author1=Cathy Biggar | author2=John Biggar | title=The Andes: A Trekking Guide | url=https://books.google.com/books?id=-rAnnaEjo8kC&pg=PA61 | access-date=26 January 2013 | date=21 May 2001 | publisher=Andes | isbn=978-0-9536087-1-3 | pages=61 }}</ref> Although by no means worked out, the south face of the mountain has a quite staggering number of steep and difficult lines, enough to bear comparison with areas such as the south face of Mont Blanc du Tacul for maturity.{{Citation needed|date=October 2021}} The north side bore the brunt maturity of early development but still retains the greatest potential.{{Citation needed|date=October 2021}}

⚫
A French expedition led by [[Lionel Terray]] first climbed the mountain on 31 July 1956 (Chakrarahu Oeste) and on 5 August 1962 (Chakrarahu Este) using what have since become the normal routes (northeast face and northeast ridge). [[Greg Mortimer]] was badly injured during a later attempt to climb the mountain.<ref>{{cite web | url = http://www.abc.net.au/tv/talkingheads/txt/s2698247.htm | title = Interview with Greg Mortimer (ABC1 Monday 6:30pm) | publisher = Australian Broadcasting Corporation (ABC) | date = 2009-10-05 | access-date = 2012-01-26 }}</ref>

Some of the routes are amongst the most desperate of the Cordillera Blanca and probably of the entire Andes.{{Citation needed|date=October 2021}} All the routes take several days and involve hanging bivouacs.{{Citation needed|date=October 2021}} First ascents to the ridge linking the east and west summits are recorded.{{Citation needed|date=October 2021}} Not all the parties are able to reach the true summits of Chakrarahu Este and Oeste, because this requires traversing below the cornices and obviously increases the seriousness of the climbs.{{Citation needed|date=October 2021}}


== See also ==
== See also ==

Revision as of 16:58, 17 November 2021

Chacraraju
Highest point
Elevation6,108 m (20,039 ft)[1]
Prominence2,855 m (9,367 ft)[2]
Parent peakHuandoy
Coordinates8°59′36″S 77°36′54″W / 8.993261°S 77.614975°W / -8.993261; -77.614975
Geography
Chacraraju is located in Peru
Chacraraju
Chacraraju
Location in Peru
Parent rangeCordillera Blanca, Andes
Climbing
First ascentChakrarahu Oeste: Lionel Terray et al (31 July 1956) - Chakrarahu Este: Lionel Terray et al. 5 August 1962[3][4]

Chacraraju[5][1][6][7] or Chakraraju[8] (possibly from Quechua chakra little farm; field, land sown with seed, rahu snow, ice, mountain with snow)[9][10][11] is a mountain in the Cordillera Blanca in the Andes mountain range of Peru. The mountain has two distinctive peaks: Chacraraju Oeste (west summit; 6,108 metres (20,039 ft)) and Chacraraju Este (east summit; 6,001 metres (19,688 ft)).[8] Chacraraju is located in Huaylas Province, Ancash.[12] It is located south and southeast of Pirámide and east of Lake Parón.[5] The peak is accessible from the Pisco base camp at Cebollapampa.[1]

Chacraraju is considered the steepest and the most difficult-to-climb six-thousander in the Andes.[13] A French expedition led by Lionel Terray first climbed the mountain on 31 July 1956 (Chakrarahu Oeste) and on 5 August 1962 (Chakrarahu Este) using what have since become the normal routes (northeast face and northeast ridge). Greg Mortimer was badly injured during a later attempt to climb the mountain.[14]

See also

References

  1. ^ a b c Biggar, John (2020). The Andes: A Guide for Climbers and Skiers. Andes. p. 83. ISBN 9780953608768.
  2. ^ "Chacraraju". Andes Specialists. Retrieved 2020-04-12.
  3. ^ "AAJ (American Alpine Journal)". AAJ (American Alpine Journal): 25. 1960.
  4. ^ Hung. "Montañas Peruanas". Montañas Peruanas.
  5. ^ a b Alpenvereinskarte 0/3a. Cordillera Blanca Nord (Peru). 1:100 000. Oesterreichischer Alpenverein. 2005. ISBN 3-928777-57-2.
  6. ^ Peru 1:100 000, Corongo (18-h). IGN (Instituto Geográfico Nacional - Perú).
  7. ^ "Nevado Chacraraju". Inventario Turístico del Perú (in Spanish). MINCETUR. Archived from the original on August 12, 2016. Retrieved June 28, 2016.
  8. ^ a b Ricker, John (1977). Yuraq Janka: A Guide to the Peruvian Andes. The Mountaineers Books. p. 76. ISBN 9781933056708.
  9. ^ Teofilo Laime Ajacopa, Diccionario Bilingüe Iskay simipi yuyayk'ancha, La Paz, 2007 (Quechua-Spanish dictionary)
  10. ^ lema.rae.es Diccionario de la lengua española, retrieved on October 21, 2013
  11. ^ "babylon.com". Archived from the original on 2014-12-29. Retrieved 2013-10-21.
  12. ^ escale.minedu.gob.pe - UGEL map of the Huaylas Province (Ancash Region)
  13. ^ Cathy Biggar; John Biggar (21 May 2001). The Andes: A Trekking Guide. Andes. p. 61. ISBN 978-0-9536087-1-3. Retrieved 26 January 2013.
  14. ^ "Interview with Greg Mortimer (ABC1 Monday 6:30pm)". Australian Broadcasting Corporation (ABC). 2009-10-05. Retrieved 2012-01-26.
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