Siula Grande: Difference between revisions
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It was made famous by [[Joe Simpson (mountaineer)|Joe Simpson]]'s book ''[[Touching the Void]]'', about an ascent and subsequent harrowing descent of the mountain by him and [[Simon Yates (mountaineer)|Simon Yates]] in 1985. The book was made into a [[Touching the Void (film)|film of the same title]] in 2003. Although they ascended the West face, and thereby became the first to reach the summit by that route, they chose the North Ridge (first descended in 1936 by a German team) for their descent, which was made almost impossible by horrible weather. All subsequent climbers have avoided the ridge and [[rappel]]led back down the face. As of 2009 the south face has not been climbed. |
It was made famous by [[Joe Simpson (mountaineer)|Joe Simpson]]'s book ''[[Touching the Void]]'', about an ascent and subsequent harrowing descent of the mountain by him and [[Simon Yates (mountaineer)|Simon Yates]] in 1985. The book was made into a [[Touching the Void (film)|film of the same title]] in 2003. Although they ascended the West face, and thereby became the first to reach the summit by that route, they chose the North Ridge (first descended in 1936 by a German team) for their descent, which was made almost impossible by horrible weather. All subsequent climbers have avoided the ridge and [[rappel]]led back down the face. As of 2009 the south face has not been climbed. |
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==First ascents list== |
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This is a partial list of first ascents by new routes made. |
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* 1936 July 28 ''North Ridge'' by Arnold Awerzger and Erwin Schneider from [[Germany]].<ref>Sturm page 322</ref><ref name="aaj2">American Alpine Journal 2002 page 305</ref> |
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* 1966 June 21 fourth ascent by Obster, Schulz and M. Sturm via the North ridge en route to Siula Chico<ref>Sturm page 325</ref> |
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* 1985 ''West Face'' by Joe Simpson and Simon Yates<ref name="aaj2"/> |
* 1985 ''West Face'' by Joe Simpson and Simon Yates<ref name="aaj2"/> |
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* 1999 ''Peru West Face Touching The Void'' (new route) by Carlos Buhler.<ref name="aaj2"/> (Buhler's route followed the Yates/Simpson route for much of the ascent, and Buhler christened it "Avoiding The Touch") |
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* 2001 July 17 ''Noches de "Juerga"'', west face<ref name="aaj2"/> |
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* 2002 July 3 ''Northeast Face, Los Rapidos'' by [[Slovenes]] Marjan Kovač and [[Pavle Kozjek]]<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP01/climbing-note-kojzek |title=Siula Grande |author=Pavle Kojzek |publisher=alpinist.com |date=2002-12-01 |accessdate=2007-12-01}}</ref><ref name="vertimania">{{cite web |url=http://www.vertimania.com.mx/noticias/nueva_ruta_en_la_pared_noreste_del_Siula.htm |title=Nueva ruta en la pared noreste del Siula Grande |publisher=Vertimania |year=2002 |language=Spanish |accessdate=2007-12-01}}</ref> |
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* 2002 August ''Mammut Tracks'', west face, by [[Rogier van Rijn]] and Eva Oomen |
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__NOTOC__ |
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==Siula Chico== |
==Siula Chico== |
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Revision as of 22:46, 7 July 2011
| Siula Grande | |
|---|---|
| Siulá Grande | |
 Carnicero, Siula Grande, Yerupaya Grande and Rasac (from right to left) as seen from Paso San Antonio (looking north). | |
| Highest point | |
| Elevation | 6,344 m (20,814 ft) |
| Listing | List of mountains in Peru |
| Geography | |
  Siula Grande | |
| Region | PE |
| Parent range | Cordillera Huayhuash |
| Climbing | |
| First ascent | 1936 |
| Easiest route | glacier/snow/ice climb |
Siula Grande is a mountain in the Cordillera Huayhuash, in the Peruvian Andes. It is 6344 m high and has a subpeak, Siula Chico, 6260 m high.[1]
Touching the Void ascent
It was made famous by Joe Simpson's book Touching the Void, about an ascent and subsequent harrowing descent of the mountain by him and Simon Yates in 1985. The book was made into a film of the same title in 2003. Although they ascended the West face, and thereby became the first to reach the summit by that route, they chose the North Ridge (first descended in 1936 by a German team) for their descent, which was made almost impossible by horrible weather. All subsequent climbers have avoided the ridge and rappelled back down the face. As of 2009 the south face has not been climbed.
- 1985 West Face by Joe Simpson and Simon Yates[2]
Siula Chico
Siula Chico is a subpeak about 6260 metre high separated from Siula Grande by an approximately 6000 metre col. Mountaineers considered the easiest route to its summit was via Siula Grande's summit and it was so conquered by Manfred Sturm's 1966 expedition.[3] Spanish alpinists Jordi Corominas and Oriol Baro made the first ascent of Chico's west face, and second ascent of the peak, in 2007 May.[1]
Notes
References
- Manfred Sturm. The Road to Siula Chico (PDF). Deutscher Alpenverein. Retrieved 2007-12-01.
{{cite book}}: Unknown parameter|coauthor=ignored (|author=suggested) (help) - "Peru" (PDF). American Alpine Journal. 2002. Retrieved 2007-12-01. [dead link]
- Erik Lambert (2007-07-11). "FIRST ASCENT OF SIULA CHICO'S WEST FACE". alpinist.com. Retrieved 2007-12-01.
External links
- "Information about Siula Grande". andes.org.uk. Retrieved 2007-12-01. - photos
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