Andy Pollitt
| Personal information | |
|---|---|
| Born | 26 October 1963[1] Prestatyn, Wales.[1] |
| Died | 13 November 2019 (aged 56)[1] Melbourne, Australia.[1] |
| Education | Prestatyn High School[1] |
| Climbing career | |
| Type of climber | Traditional climbing, Sport climbing, Free solo climbing |
| Highest grade | |
| Known for | Pioneer professional British rock climber[1] |
| First ascents |
|
Robert Andrew Pollitt (26 October 1963 – 13 November 2019) was a British rock climber who was one of the most prominent traditional climbers of the late 1980s and early 1990s. In 1993, Pollitt emigrated to Australia, where he successfully climbed Punks in the Gym, one of the world's hardest-ever sport climbing routes, after which he quit climbing. In 2016, Pollitt published an autobiography, titled Punk in the Gym. He died from a cerebral aneurysm on 13 November 2019.[1]
Early life
Andy Pollitt was born in Prestatyn, North Wales on 26 October 1963.[3] His father was an actor who had small parts in Z-Cars, Coronation Street, and Doctor Who before eventually leaving the family.[1] Pollitt attended Prestatyn High School, which unusually for the time had an indoor climbing wall that Pollitt took to with enthusiasm, including school trips to nearby crags organised by his climbing teacher-mentor, Andy Boorman.[4]
Climbing career
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In the 1980s and early 1990s, Pollitt rose to prominence in Britain as a leading traditional climber, completing over 350 climbs, with important first ascents such as The Hollow Man (E8 6b), and Knockin' on Heaven's Door (E9 6c).[2] Pollitt also repeated some of the most feared routes of the time including onsighting the second ascent of John Redhead's The Bells The Bells!, Britain's first-ever E7-graded climb.[4][2]
Pollitt was renowned for the boldness of his routes and also for his distinctive fashion; he wore his hair long and sported bright, tight lycra.[3][2]
In 1993, Pollitt moved to Australia where he worked as a rope access technician in Melbourne while working on the sport climbing route, Punks in the Gym, which was the first-ever 8b+ (5.14a) graded route when Wolfgang Güllich made the first free ascent in 1985.[5] He eventually succeeded, in what would be his final climb.[2]
Later life and death
Pollitt sold his climbing gear on the same day he climbed Punks in the Gym, and gave up climbing for good.[3][4] In the years before his death, Pollitt returned to his climbing past, publishing an autobiography under the title Punk in the Gym in 2016.[6] In the book, Pollitt revealed that he suffered from bipolar disorder.[4][7]
Pollitt died on 13 November 2019. He had suffered a cerebral aneurysm whilst standing in a bar and never regained consciousness.[4]
Bibliography
- Punk in the Gym, 2016, Vertebrate Publishing. ISBN 978-1910240694.
Notable ascents
- 1984: Skinhead Moonstomp (E6 6b), Gogarth North Stack. First free ascent. One of the classics of Welsh climbing,[2][8] and Pollitt's favourite FFA.[7]
- 1986: The Bells, The Bells! (E7 6c), Gogarth North Stack. Second ascent, and first onsight ascent, of John Redhead's legendary chop route.[2][9]
- 1986: The Hollow Man (E8 6b), Gogarth North Stack. First free ascent and the first-ever E8 in Wales; seconded by Johnny Dawes.[2]
- 1987: Boot Boys (8a+), Raven Tor, Dovedale. First free ascent of a route that had only been aid climbed just two days earlier.[3]
- 1988: Knockin' on Heaven's Door (E9 6c), Curbar Edge. First free ascent and the first-ever E9 on gritstone; considered "a last great problem".[2][1][9]
- 1988: Thormen's Moth (8a), Thor's Cave, Peak District. First free ascent of an aid climbing roof route; Pollitt considered it one of his best lines.[3][7]
- 1992 (5 May): Punks in the Gym (8b+), Mount Arapiles. Sixth ascent of the world's first-ever 8b+ (5.14a); Pollitt retired from climbing that day.[2][9]
See also
References
- ^ a b c d e f g h i j Obituaries (27 December 2019). "Maverick mountaineer tackled toughest climb". Sydney Morning Herald. Retrieved 27 March 2023.
- ^ a b c d e f g h i j Barns, Dave (14 November 2019). "Goodbye to British rock climbing icon Andy Pollitt". PlanetMountain. Retrieved 26 March 2023.
- ^ a b c d e Berry, Natalie (13 November 2019). "Andy Pollitt dies aged 56". UKClimbing. Retrieved 17 March 2023.
{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link) - ^ a b c d e Obituary (24 December 2019). "Andy Pollitt: the mountaineer who put rock'n'roll into climbing". The Telegraph. Retrieved 19 March 2023.
{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link) - ^ "Punks in the Gym, the world's first 5.14a". Gripped. 28 November 2014. Retrieved 19 March 2023.
{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link) - ^ Greenwood, Robert (17 May 2016). "Punk in the Gym by Andy Pollitt Review". UK Climbing. Retrieved 19 March 2023.
{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link) - ^ a b c Creese, Charlie (4 March 2020). "Remembering Andy Pollitt - Cars, Stars, Bars, Guitars". UK Climbing. Retrieved 19 March 2023.
{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link) Cite error: The named reference "UKC3" was defined multiple times with different content (see the help page). - ^ "British Climber Andy Pollitt's Autobiography to be Published in 2016". Climber. 21 July 2016. Retrieved 23 March 2023.
- ^ a b c Sterling, Sarah (19 November 2019). "Remembering Andy Pollitt". British Mountaineering Council. Retrieved 23 March 2023.
External links
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