Jan Hojer
 Hojer winning the European Championships, 2017 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Personal information | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Nationality | Germany | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Born | February 9, 1992 Köln, Germany | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Occupation | Professional rock climber | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Height | 188 cm (6 ft 2 in) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Weight | 77 kg (170 lb) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Climbing career | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Type of climber | Bouldering | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Highest grade |
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| Known for | Winning one World Cup and two European Championships | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Medal record
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| Updated on November 13, 2017 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Jan Hojer (born February 9, 1992) is a German professional rock climber. He is known for winning one World Cup and two European Championships in bouldering. On May 2010, he climbed Action Directe, still considered to be one of the most difficult routes in the world. From 2013 to 2015, he solved several 8C (V15) boulder problems.
Career
Hojer started participating in German Lead climbing youth competitions in 2004, at the age of 10. In 2008, 2009 and 2010 he participated in the Lead Climbing World Cup.
Since his performances in lead climbing were never outstanding, in 2011 he quit competing in that discipline and started competing in bouldering. Notable results started coming next year, when he ranked fifth in the Climbing World Championships.
In 2014 he won the Climbing World Cup in bouldering.[1]
In 2015 and 2017 he won the Climbing European Championships in the same discipline.[1]
He also obtained otstanding results in outdoor climbing. On May 2010, he climbed Action Directe, still considered to be one of the most difficult routes in the world.[2]
From 2013 to 2015, he solved several outdoor 8C (V15) boulder problems.
Rankings
Climbing World Cup[3]
| Discipline | 2008 | 2009 | 2010 | 2011 | 2012 | 2013 | 2014 | 2015 | 2016 | 2017 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 22 | 22 | 43 | - | - | - | - | 33 | - | 17 |
| Bouldering | - | - | - | 33 | 20 | 8 | 1 | 2 | 9 | 7 |
| Speed | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | 29 |
| Combined | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | 5 | - | 7 |
Climbing World Championships[1]
| Discipline | 2009 | 2011 | 2012 | 2014 | 2016 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 30 | - | - | 30 | - |
| Bouldering | 39 | 46 | 5 | 3 | 27 |
| Speed | - | - | - | 30 | - |
| Combined | - | - | - | 2 | - |
Climbing European Championships[1]
| Discipline | 2010 | 2013 | 2015 | 2017 |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 41 | - | - | 21 |
| Bouldering | - | 20 | 1 | 1 |
| Speed | - | - | - | 23 |
| Combined | - | - | - | 1 |
Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup
Bouldering[1]
| Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2012 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2013 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
| 2014 | 3 | 2 | 5 | |
| 2015 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2016 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2017 | 1 | 1 | ||
| Total | 6 | 4 | 1 | 11 |
Rock climbing
Redpointed routes
9a (5.14d):
- Action Directe - Frankenjura (DEU)- May 22, 2010
8c+ (5.14c):
8C (V15):
- Quoi de Neuf - Fontainebleau (FRA) - November 21, 2017[4]
- From Dirt Grows the Flowers - Chironico (CHE) - March 8, 2015
- The Story of Two Worlds - Cresciano (CHE) - April 11, 2014[5]
- Le Marathon de Boissy - Fontainebleau (FRA) - March 2014 - First ascent.[6]
- Trip Hop - Fontainebleau (FRA) - October 2013
- The Big Island - Fontainebleau (FRA) - January 2013.[7]
8B+ (V14):
- Jour de Chasse - Fontainebleau (FRA) - December 2013 - First ascent. Hojer graded it a soft 8C, possibly because he did not use a heel hook that, according to some repeaters, makes it easier to climb.[8]
- Dreamtime - Cresciano (CHE) - February 18, 2013. Rated 8C by Hojer, who described it as "much harder than any 8B+ i've ever tried.."[9]
References
- ^ a b c d e IFSC, ed. (July 20, 2017). "Hojer's profile and rankings". Retrieved July 20, 2017.
- ^ Jan Hojer climbs Action Directe on climbing.de, Incl. Video. November 4, 2010
- ^ IFSC, ed. (July 20, 2017). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved July 20, 2017.
- ^ [1]
- ^ Hojer sends The Story of Two Worlds V15
- ^ Le Marathon de Boissy 8c Boissy aux Cailles
- ^ Jan Hojer repeating The Big Island (V15) on ukclimbing.com, Incl. Video.
- ^ Comments about Jour de Chasse on 8a.nu
- ^ Hojer's boulders on 8a.nu
External links
