Action Directe (climb)

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Action Directe
Action Directe (Waldkopf).JPG
The route follows five bolts which are visible on the photo (quickdraws are clipped to the fourth and fifth bolt) and ends with the belay anchor (not visible). The next bolted route to the right, Feiste Fäuste, follows the overhanging crack and is much easier (grade IX).
LocationFrankenjura, Germany
Coordinates49°38′04″N 11°36′09″E / 49.63444°N 11.60250°E / 49.63444; 11.60250Coordinates: 49°38′04″N 11°36′09″E / 49.63444°N 11.60250°E / 49.63444; 11.60250
Climbing AreaKrottenseer Forst (crag Waldkopf)
Route TypeSport Climb
Vertical Gain15m
Rating9a (French) or XI (UIAA)
Route SetterMilan Sykora
First free ascentWolfgang Güllich, 1991.

Action Directe is a famously difficult sport climb in the Frankenjura, Germany.

While being generally recognized as the world's first 9a (5.14d), Güllich actually gave the route a UIAA grade of XI, which converts to a grade between 8c+ and 9a. It was the first recognised route of the grade, and is considered by many to be something of a benchmark for the grade. It is also famous for its style, involving long dynamic moves off single-finger pockets, and a dynamic start into a two finger pocket.[1] Wolfgang Güllich invented the campus board to train the very specific strength needed for the Frankenjura area.[2]

History[edit]

Milan Sykora bolted this line in the 80's with a start from the neighboring line to the right. The first ascent (FA) was by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991, who climbed the route using a 16 move sequence and a more direct start with a dynamic jump into a two-finger pocket. It took him 11 days of working the problem to redpoint it. Dai Koyamada used a different sequence with only 11 moves.

The climb has yet to see a first female ascent.[2]

Ascents[edit]

The repeat ascents were by:

Gallery[edit]

See also[edit]

Notable first free ascents

References[edit]

  1. ^ David Firnenburg. "Ascending "Action Directe" in the past and today". The Circuit Climbing. Archived from the original on March 15, 2018. Retrieved March 15, 2018.
  2. ^ a b Nicholas Hobley. "Action Directe, Wolfgang Güllich's 25-year-old Frankenjura masterpiece". Planet Mountain. Retrieved March 15, 2018.
  3. ^ UKClimbing Editorial Team (Dec 16, 2010). "Rich Simpson - UKC's Position". Retrieved December 19, 2010.
  4. ^ Dougald MacDonald. "Action Directe: It's a Trade Route". Climbing.com. Retrieved March 15, 2018.
  5. ^ "Adam Ondra repeats Action Directe, Frankenjura". Planet Mountain. Retrieved March 15, 2018.
  6. ^ "Rock Climbing Classics: Episode 2 – Jan Hojer Climbs Action Directe (5.14d)". Rock and Ice. Retrieved March 15, 2018.
  7. ^ Wojciech Słowakiewicz (10 October 2010). "Action Directe by Adam Pustelnik!". Serwis Wspinaczkowy wspinanie.pl. Archived from the original on 15 October 2010. Retrieved 12 October 2010.
  8. ^ "Felix Knaub hat "Action directe" (11) im Frankenjura geklettert". Archived from the original on November 12, 2011. Retrieved November 23, 2011.
  9. ^ PlanetMountain (May 6, 2014). "Alexander Megos, the Action Directe Frankenjura interview". Retrieved May 6, 2014.
  10. ^ ClimbingNews (May 26, 2015). "Felix Neumärker Repeats Two 9a's in Three Days". Archived from the original on September 11, 2015. Retrieved May 26, 2015.
  11. ^ Toni Lonobile for Wildclimb (June 27, 2015). "Interview of Julius Westphal!". Archived from the original on January 7, 2016. Retrieved June 27, 2015.
  12. ^ Artikel bei Rock and Ice, abgerufen am 15. Juni 2016
  13. ^ David Firnenburg wiederholt „Action Directe“ (9a), retrieved 6th November 2016
  14. ^ Stephan Vogt bezwingt »Action Directe«, retrieved 6th April 2017
  15. ^ Quentin Coster. "Simon Lorenzi enchaîne "Action Directe", son premier 9a !" (in French). Retrieved 2017-05-15.
  16. ^ "Action directe 9a pour Said Belhaj – Action directe 9a by Said Belhaj" (in French and English). Retrieved 2018-10-31.
  17. ^ https://rockandice.com/videos/climbing/action-directe-5-14d-by-stefan-scarperi/

External links[edit]

INTERVIEWS