Action Directe (climb)
|This article needs additional citations for verification. (March 2010) (Learn how and when to remove this template message)|
|Climbing Area||Krottenseer Forst (crag Waldkopf)|
|Route Type||Sport Climb|
|Rating||9a (French) or XI (UIAA)|
|First free ascent||Wolfgang Güllich, 1991.|
While being generally recognized as the world's first 9a (5.14d), Güllich actually gave the route a UIAA grade of XI. It was the first recognised route of the grade, and is considered by many to be something of a benchmark for the grade. It is also famous for its style, involving long dynamic moves off single-finger pockets. Wolfgang Güllich invented the campus board to train the very specific strength needed for this route.
Milan Sykora bolted this line in the 80's with a start from the neighboring line to the right. The first ascent (FA) was by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991, who climbed the route using a 16 move sequence and a more direct start with a dynamic jump into a two-finger pocket. Dai Koyamada used a different sequence with only 11 moves.
The repeat ascents were by:
- Alexander Adler on 9 September 1995.
- Iker Pou on 7 June 2000.
- Dave Graham on 21 May 2001.
- Christian Bindhammer on 14 May 2003.
- Rich Simpson on 13 October 2005 (his ascent has been questioned by UKC, and many other climbing sites ).
- Dai Koyamada on 15 October 2005.
- Markus Bock on 22 October 2005.
- Kilian Fischhuber on 25 September 2006.
- Adam Ondra on 19 May 2008.
- Patxi Usobiaga on 24 October 2008.
- Gabriele Moroni on 17 April 2010.
- Jan Hojer on 22 May 2010.
- Adam Pustelnik on 10 October 2010.
- Felix Knaub on 22 October 2011.
- Rustam Gelmanov on 26 March 2012
- Alexander Megos on 3 May 2014 
- Felix Neumärker on 16 May 2015 
- Julius Westphal on 25 June 2015 
- UKClimbing Editorial Team (Dec 16, 2010). "Rich Simpson - UKC's Position". Retrieved December 19, 2010.
- Wojciech Słowakiewicz (Oct 10, 2010). "Action Directe by Adam Pustelnik!". Serwis Wspinaczkowy wspinanie.pl. Archived from the original on 15 October 2010. Retrieved October 12, 2010.
- "Felix Knaub hat "Action directe" (11) im Frankenjura geklettert". Retrieved November 23, 2011.
- PlanetMountain (May 6, 2014). "Alexander Megos, the Action Directe Frankenjura interview". Retrieved May 6, 2014.
- ClimbingNews (May 26, 2015). "Felix Neumärker Repeats Two 9a's in Three Days". Retrieved May 26, 2015.
- Toni Lonobile for Wildclimb (June 27, 2015). "Interview of Julius Westphal!". Retrieved June 27, 2015.
- 2nd ascent by Alexander Adler[dead link]
- 3rd ascent by Iker Pou
- 4th ascent by Dave Graham
- 5th ascent by Christhian Bindhammer
- 6th ascent by Rich Simpson
- 7th ascent by Dai Koyamada
- 8th ascent by Markus Bock
- 9th ascent by Kilian Fischhuber
- 10th ascent by Adam Ondra
- 11th ascent by Patxi Usobiaga
- 16th ascent by Rustam Gelmanov