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Raymond Jacobs (photographer)

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Raymond Jacobs
Born(1923-04-26)April 26, 1923
Brooklyn, New York
DiedMarch 17, 1993(1993-03-17) (aged 69)
Torrington, Connecticut
NationalityAmerican
Occupation(s)Photographer, Filmmaker, Businessman

Raymond Jacobs (April 26, 1923[1] – March 17, 1993[2]) was an American photographer, filmmaker, and businessman.

Raymond Jacobs is primarily known for his iconic reportage photographs of New York City street scenes from the late 1940s through the mid 1960s, his portraits of celebrities and notable figures of the era such as Louis Armstrong, Salvador Dalí and Robert F. Kennedy,[3] as well as his in-depth photographic studies of subjects like the American circus and female impersonators.[4] Jacobs also had a successful career as a commercial advertising photographer during the 1950s- 1970s.[5]

In the 1970s Jacobs took a pause from his photographic career and, with his wife Eleanor, popularized the countercultural footwear brand Earth Shoes through their New York based “Earth Shoe Company”.[6]

Raymond Jacobs’ photographic archive is represented by The J. Blatt Agency LLC, New York.[7]

Early life

Jacobs began working as a mink-cutter at his father's fur business in Manhattan's Garment District at the age of 12.[8][9] He attended DeWitt Clinton High School in the Bronx, where he photographed the 1939 New York World's Fair with a Brownie box camera for the student newspaper.[8]

Jacobs enlisted in the U.S. Army and served in the Signal Corps in Europe during World War II.[10]

Career

Photographer

With an interest in photography since high school, Jacobs applied to a photography class conducted by Lisette Model at The New School. Model reviewed his portfolio and asked his profession. He replied, "I am a furrier." She told him, "You are not— you are a photographer."[8] After studying with Model, Jacobs joined a class taught by Sid Grossman in 1953. Later in 1960, with an interest in color photography, he studied carbon print color processing with Sy Kattelson and subsequently installed color lab equipment into his own darkroom.[1]

At the age of 30, Jacobs began a career as a freelance commercial photographer.[9] Through his work with a number of prominent advertising agencies, he photographed campaigns for Campbell's Soup, Tareyton Cigarettes, IBM, Pan Am, Johnson & Johnson and many other major companies.[11] Jacobs’ editorial photographs were regularly published in magazines such as Fortune, Esquire, Harper's Bazaar, McCall's, and Eros.[12] Jacobs received over 50 Art Directors' Awards for his advertising work during this time.[13]

Jacobs is most well known however for his personal reportage photographs of New York City street scenes taken from the mid-1940s through early 1960s and for his intimate portraits of notable figures like Louis Armstrong, Gloria Swanson, Douglas Fairbanks Jr., Salvador Dalí, Eartha Kitt, Robert F. Kennedy, Sammy Davis Jr., and Billie Holiday.[13][14]

The seminal Museum of Modern Art photography curator Edward Steichen included Jacobs’ work in the groundbreaking photographic exhibition The Family of Man (January 24 – May 8, 1955) as well as in 70 Photographers Look at New York (November 27, 1957 – April 15, 1958).[15][16] John Swarkowski thereafter acquired a number of Jacobs’ works for MoMA’s permanent photography collection.[17]

Jacobs first solo exhibition was held in 1955 at Roy DeCarava's A Photographer's Gallery on the Upper West Side of New York City. According to New York Times photography critic Jacob Deschin, the exhibition primarily focused on "close-up characterizations of people in varied situations of ordinary living" and noted that Jacobs added "a new element, represented in a group of vacation landscapes and seascapes that reveal a fresh, unsuspected side to this photographer's talents."[18][19]

Jacobs was one of ten photographers featured in Style in Photography in Photography Annual 1963, edited by Bruce Downes. According to Deschin, "Jacobs' portfolio of poster-like effects in manipulated images of unrealistic color provides an excitingly novel example of a successful stylistic device."[20]

Jacobs went on to have solo exhibitions at The Limelight Gallery (1961, Greenwich Village),[21] The Walker Art Center (1963, Minneapolis),[22] The Washington Irving Gallery (1978, New York City),[23] The Oliver Wolcott Library (1990, Litchfield, Connecticut),[24] The National Arts Club (1990, New York City),[25] The Hotchkiss School’s Tremaine Art Gallery (2006, Lakeville, Connecticut),[26] and The Litchfield Historical Society (2016, Litchfield, Connecticut).[27] Jacobs' work was also included in the 2007 exhibition "Lisette Model and Her Successors” at the Aperture Gallery in New York.[28][29]

In 2006, Pointed Leaf Press published My New York, a monograph of Jacobs' New York City street photographs.[8][30]

In 2019, one of Jacobs' iconic 1950s advertising photographs was included in the exhibition "Women on View: Aesthetics of Desire in Advertising" at Galerie 36 in Berlin.[31]

A solo exhibition featuring almost 40 never-before-seen photographs that Jacobs made during a 1954 trip to Gaspésie, Canada opened at Musée de la Gaspésie in October 2019 and will remain on view through the end of 2021.[32]

Filmmaking

In the 1960s, Jacobs branched into filmmaking.[33][34] He co-wrote and co-produced Aroused (1966), directed by Anton Holden. Jacobs directed, co-wrote, and co-produced his second film, The Minx (1969), which starred Jan Sterling and featured an original soundtrack by The Cyrkle.[35]

Both films were financially successful, but he left the business to concentrate on Earth Shoes.[34]

Earth Shoes

In 1970, Jacobs and his wife Eleanor founded the Earth Shoe company to sell a negative heel shoe (the heel was lower than the toe) designed by Anna Kalsø they had discovered while traveling in Copenhagen, Denmark the previous year. Officially opening on April 22, 1970, the first Earth Day, the Jacobs' dubbed the footwear Earth Shoes. The shoes quickly became a popular countercultural symbol of the 1970s. The company expanded to 123 stores to sell the shoes, boots, and sandals, all with the negative heel design, across the United States, Canada, and Europe.[13][34][36][9] By 1976 sales had grown to $14 million,[37] but the company dissolved in 1977.[13]

Later life

After the Earth Shoe company closed, Jacobs relocated with his family to Litchfield, Connecticut and taught photography at Litchfield's Forman School.[27]

Jacobs died on March 17, 1993, in Torrington, Connecticut.[13][38]

Personal life

Jacobs married his wife Eleanor ("Ellie") in 1955. They had two daughters, Susan and Laura.[34]

References

  1. ^ a b "Chronology". The Estate of Raymond Jacobs. Retrieved January 11, 2019.
  2. ^ Service, New York Times News. "EARTH SHOE CO. FOUNDER RAYMOND JACOBS, 69". chicagotribune.com. Retrieved 2021-02-10.
  3. ^ "Celebrities". The Estate of. Retrieved 2021-02-10.
  4. ^ "The Estate of". The Estate of. Retrieved 2021-02-10.
  5. ^ "Raymond Jacobs Biography". The Estate of. Retrieved 2021-02-10.
  6. ^ Sandomir, Richard (2020-09-05). "Eleanor Jacobs, 91, Dies; a Force Behind the Earth Shoe Phenomenon". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 2021-02-10.
  7. ^ "The Estate of". The Estate of. Retrieved 2021-02-10.
  8. ^ a b c d "The Restaurant Curse of 63rd Street and the City Through a Lens". The New York Times. April 30, 2006.
  9. ^ a b c "All about why there aren't any heels". The Baltimore Sun. December 9, 1975.
  10. ^ "Photographer Raymond Jacobs' work on view at Litchfield History Museum". The Litchfield County Times. April 28, 2016.
  11. ^ "Raymond Jacobs". The Estate of Raymond Jacobs. Retrieved April 20, 2019.
  12. ^ "Published Work". The Estate of Raymond Jacobs. Retrieved April 20, 2019.
  13. ^ a b c d e "Raymond Jacobs, 69, Co-Founder Of Earth Shoe Company in 1970's". The New York Times. March 20, 1993.
  14. ^ "Celebrities". The Estate of Raymond Jacobs. Retrieved March 16, 2019.
  15. ^ "Raymond Jacobs". Museum of Modern Art. Retrieved January 11, 2019.
  16. ^ "Raymond Jacobs | MoMA". The Museum of Modern Art. Retrieved 2021-02-10.
  17. ^ "Raymond Jacobs | MoMA". The Museum of Modern Art. Retrieved 2021-02-10.
  18. ^ "CAMERA NOTES: Book on Fast Color Filter — Two New Shows". The New York Times. September 11, 1955.
  19. ^ "TWO NEW SHOWS: Silver and Jacobs Have One-Man Exhibits". The New York Times. September 18, 1955.
  20. ^ "STYLE IS THEME: Photography Annual Has 10 Portfolios". The New York Times. September 23, 1962.
  21. ^ "CAMERA NEWS NOTES". The New York Times. June 4, 1961.
  22. ^ "Walker Will Show Photos by New Yorker". Star Tribune. July 7, 1963.
  23. ^ "Arts and Leisure Guide". The New York Times. April 9, 1978.
  24. ^ "Exhibitions". Hartford Courant. February 1, 1990.
  25. ^ "Show from 'Shoe'-man sure clicks". New York Daily News. April 20, 1990.
  26. ^ "Raymond Jacobs Retrospective at The Hotchkiss School Tremaine Gallery". Art Times. May 2006.
  27. ^ a b "Litchfield: Historical society hosts show of late photographer Raymond Jacobs, opening April 15". The Register Citizen. March 30, 2016.
  28. ^ "Art in Review". The New York Times. October 19, 2007.
  29. ^ "Lisette Model and Her Successors". Aperture. Retrieved March 26, 2019.
  30. ^ My New York. Pointed Leaf Press. 2006. ISBN 0977787508.
  31. ^ "Women on View: Aesthetics of Desire in Advertising". Galerie 36. Retrieved March 26, 2019.
  32. ^ "Raymond Jacobs - Gaspésie, 1954 - Exposition". Musée de la Gaspésie. Retrieved 2021-02-10.
  33. ^ "A New Yorker, a Dane and a shoe horn in a monastery". The Boston Globe. December 17, 1972.
  34. ^ a b c d "Shoes That Make You Waddle Like a Duck—And They Sell". The New York Times. February 25, 1974.
  35. ^ "Screen: Espionage Girls". The New York Times. November 22, 1969.
  36. ^ "Shoes With an Earthly Appearance". Newsday. September 9, 1974.
  37. ^ "Down At The Heels, But Fat In The Pocketbook". Forbes. November 15, 1976.
  38. ^ "Deaths". The Washington Post. March 24, 1993.
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