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Pit Schubert

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Pit Schubert
Born (1935-12-02) December 2, 1935 (age 88)
Wrocław
OccupationAuthor, climber and mountaineer
NationalityGerman
GenreNon-fiction
Notable worksModern Felstechnik

Pit Schubert (born December 2, 1935 in Wrocław) is a German non-fiction author, climber and mountaineer. He is the founder and former head of the safety commission of the German Alpine Club (DAV).[1]

Life

Schubert started climbing and mountaineering at the age of 17. He became known for both his first ascents and his adherence to alpine doctrines.

He is a qualified engineer, and worked for approximately 15 years in the aerospace industry. In 1968, he was a founding member of the DAV Safety Group, which he chaired until retiring in 2000. He was also president of the UIAA Safety Commission.[2] He worked to standardize climbing equipment, prevented innumerable accidents,[3] and he stated that "At that time man was making the first flight to the moon a reality, but we were still using ice axes with wooden shafts – which could break on the first use on the ice – so a lot of things were waiting to be done.” .

First ascents

  • 1967: Piz Ciavazes, South Wall, Via Schubert ( VI + , 220 m), Sellagruppe, Dolomites
  • 1968: Guglia di Brenta, SW-edge, Schubert / Werner ( VI, 380 m), Brenta group, Dolomites
  • 1969: First ascent of the Roc Noir (Khangsar Kang, 7485 m), Karakorum
  • 1975: Fleischbank, Neue Ostwand, Pohlke / Schubert (VIII, 360 m), Kaisergebirge
  • 1976: First ascent of the south flank of Annapurna IV (7525 m), Annapurna Massif [4]

Books

  • Modern Felstechnik, Bergverlag Rother, 1975
  • The application of the rope in ice and rock, Bergverlag Rother, 1998, ISBN 3-7633-6082-4
  • Alpine rope technique for beginners and advanced, Bergverlag Rother, 2000, ISBN 3-7633-6083-2
  • (Alpine club leader extreme) Kaisergebirge, Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 2000. ISBN 3-7633-1272-2
  • Via ferrata, Bergverlag Rother, 2003, ISBN 3-7633-6019-0
  • Safety and Risk in Rock and Ice, Bergverlag Rother, Volume 1, 7th Edition, 2004, ISBN 3-7633-6016-6 ; Volume 2, 2002, ISBN 3-7633-6018-2 ; Volume 3, 2006, ISBN 3-7633-6031-X
  • Alpine Curriculum, Vol. 5: Safety at the Mountain, BLV Verlagsgesellschaft, 2003, ISBN 3-405-16632-2
  • Anecdotes from the mountain: Amusing stories of mountaineering, climbing and skiing, Bergverlag Rother, 2010, ISBN 3-7633-7039-0 [5][6]

References

  1. ^ http://www.theuiaa.org/members-area/pit-schubert-honoured-for-lifetime-contributions-to-safety/
  2. ^ http://www.theuiaa.org/members-area/honorary-members/pit-schubert/
  3. ^ http://www.king-albert.ch/award-winners/36-pit-schubert
  4. ^ https://www.stadler-markus.de/alpinklettern/wilder-kaiser/kletterrouten/fleischbank/routeninfos/beschreibung/neue-ostwand-schubert.html
  5. ^ . German National Library https://portal.dnb.de/opac.htm?method=simpleSearch&query=115612394. {{cite web}}: Missing or empty |title= (help)
  6. ^ "Pit Schubert". Databazeknih.cz.
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