Carmel Snow

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Carmel Snow
BornCarmel White
Ireland
Died1961
OccupationMagazine editor
EmployerVogue, Harper's Bazaar

Carmel Snow, born Carmel White (1887 – 1961), named after Our Lady of Mount Carmel. Was the editor-in-chief of the American edition of Harper's Bazaar from 1934 to 1958; she also served as the chair of that magazine's editorial board.[1][2][3] She was famously quoted as saying, "Elegance is good taste, plus a dash of daring".[4]

History[edit]

Early life[edit]

She was born in Dublin, but she and her mother Annie moved to America when Carmel was a child.[1] Her father Peter White caught pneumonia and died on April 7, 1893, before the move.[1] Her mother eventually became a noted dressmaker for rich New York socialites.[1]

In 1903 Carmel attended school at a convent in Brussels; the Soeurs de Sainte-Marie is where she mastered her understanding of French.[4]

Career[edit]

In 1921 she was offered the job of assistant fashion editor at Vogue by Condé Nast.[1] In 1926 she was appointed as fashion editor at Vogue.[1][5] In 1926, she also married George Palen Snow; wearing a gown of cream white satin trimmed with seed pearls and old Burano lace that had been in her family for many years.[6][1] She later had three daughters; it was rumored that one of them suffered from schizophrenia, but this diagnosis has not been confirmed.[7][1]

In 1929 her brother Tom White became general manager of the Hearst publishing organization.[1] Though Carmel had promised Condé Nast she would not take a job there, she did take a job at Harper's Bazaar.[1] She famously described her goal at Harper's Bazaar as creating a magazine for "well-dressed women with well-dressed minds".[4]

She discovered Martin Munkacsi, and in 1933 and persuaded him to photograph the Harper’s Bazaar December edition’s ‘Palm Beach’ bathing suit editorial.[1] For this editorial, he had the model Lucille Brokaw run toward the camera while he photographed, which was the first instance of a fashion model being photographed in motion.[1][4]

Snow[clarification needed]became editor-in-chief of Harper's Bazaar in 1934.[1]

She hired her art director Alexey Brodovitch on the basis of a 1934 exhibition of his work in graphic design at the Art Directors Club of New York.[4] She described his exhibit as a revelation, mentioning "pages that bled beautifully, cropped photographs, typography and design that were bold and interesting".[4] She found her fashion editor, Diana Vreeland, after noticing her dancing across a crowded room.[8][4]

In 1947 she exclaimed, "It's such a new look!", thus coining that phrase in regard to Christian Dior's 1947 collection.[9][10]

Snow died in 1961, while she was working with her long-time collaborator Mary Louis Aswell on her memoir, The World of Carmel Snow,.[11][1] The book was published posthumously.[4]

As to why Carmel's reputation faded, while Vreeland's did not, photographer Richard Avedon (quoted in a 2005 biography[12] of Carmel by Penelope Rowlands) said: "She was older, right? and she died before stardom was the thing."[4]

Further reading[edit]

  • A Dash of Daring: Carmel Snow and Her Life in Fashion, Art, and Letters (2005), by Penelope Rowlands
  • The World of Carmel Snow (1962), by Carmel Snow and Mary Louis Aswell

References[edit]

  1. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n "Women's Museum of Ireland | Articles | Carmel Snow". Womensmuseumofireland.ie. 2017-07-14. Retrieved 2018-06-11.
  2. ^ "CARMEL SNOW: TEN INFLUENTIALS - 10 Magazine10 Magazine". 10magazine.com. Retrieved 2018-06-11.
  3. ^ John Giacobello (2003). Careers in the Fashion Industry. The Rosen Publishing Group. pp. 106–. ISBN 978-0-8239-4082-0.
  4. ^ a b c d e f g h i Penelope Rowlands (2005). A Dash of Daring: Carmel Snow and Her Life in Fashion, Art, and Letters. Atria Books, Simon & Schuster. pp. FM–. ISBN 0743480457.
  5. ^ "Meet The Irish Woman Who Ruled New York Fashion".
  6. ^ "MISS WHIBRIDE OF GEOR6Ii P, 5NOW: Daughier of Mrs., Edward Vc:l Pelt Douglas Married at tho Home of Her Mother. ELIZABi'H SINGER WEDS Bishop $tlres Officiates at Her Marriage to H, de R. Lancaster In St.' Thomas's -- Other Nuptials.' :".
  7. ^ "Before There Was Vreeland: A biography of Carmel Snow, who brought quality fiction and photography into fashion magazines".
  8. ^ Vreeland, Diana (1985) [1984]. D. V. New York: Vintage. pp. 116–117. ISBN 0-394-73161-1.
  9. ^ Company History at Dior's website Archived 7 November 2008 at the Wayback Machine.
  10. ^ "History of Christian Dior S.A." fundinguniverse.com.
  11. ^ "Carmel Snow, Editor, Dies at 73; Headed Harper's Bazaar Board: Leader in Fashion World on Both Sides of Atlantic Had Started With Vogue".
  12. ^ "A Dash of Daring". The New Yorker. Retrieved 2018-06-13.