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Chogolisa

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Chogolisa
Chogolisa seen from the "shoulder" of K2
Highest point
Elevation7,665 m (25,148 ft)[1]
Ranked 36th
Prominence1,624 m (5,328 ft)[2]
ListingUltra
Geography
Chogolisa is located in Pakistan
Chogolisa
Chogolisa
Pakistan
LocationGilgit–Baltistan, Pakistan[3]
Parent rangeKarakoram
Climbing
First ascentAugust 2, 1975 (Chogolisa I)
1958 (Chogolisa II)
Easiest routerock/snow/ice climb

Chogolisa (or Bride Peak) is a mountain in the Karakoram region of Pakistan. It lies near the Baltoro Glacier in the Concordia region which is home to some of the highest peaks of the world. Chogolisa has several peaks, the highest on the SW face (Chogolisa I) rises to 7,665 metres (25,148 ft). The second highest at 7,654 metres on the NE side (Chogolisa II) is the one named Bride Peak by Martin Conway in 1892.

In 1909, a party led by Duke of the Abruzzi reached 7,498 m (24,600 ft) from a base camp located on the northern side and a high camp on the Chogolisa saddle at 6,335m. Bad weather stopped the party from ascending further, but their climb established a world altitude record.[1]

Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diemberger attempted Chogolisa in 1957 after they had successfully summitted Broad Peak behind Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller a few weeks earlier. On June 25 they left camp I and camped in a saddle at 6,706m on the SE ridge. On June 27 a sudden snow storm forced them to retreat and on the descent, Buhl broke off with a big cornice into the mountain's near vertical north face. His body has never been found.[1]

In 1958, a Japanese expedition from Kyoto University led by Takeo Kuwabara(桑原武夫) made the first ascent of Chogolisa II, placing M. Fujihira and K. Hirai on top.[1]

The first ascent of Chogolisa I was made on August 2, 1975 by Fred Pressl and Gustav Ammerer of an Austrian expedition led by Eduard Koblmueller. Koblmueller almost suffered the same fate as Buhl, as he also fell through a cornice on the ascent; fortunately, he was roped and team members were able to pull him to safety.[1]

See also

References

  1. ^ a b c d e "Chogolisa/Bride Peak". Everest News. Retrieved 2004-01-03.
  2. ^ a b "Karakoram and India/Pakistan Himalayas Ultra-Prominences". peaklist.org. Retrieved 2010-08-05.
  3. ^ This region is disputed and controlled by Pakistan; the whole region is claimed by India. See e.g. The Future of Kashmir on the BBC website.
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