Elvira Leonardi Bouyeure

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Jump to navigation Jump to search
Elvira Leonardi Bouyeure
Biki (Elvira Leonardi Bouyeure) ICAR.jpg
Elvira Leonardi Bouyeure, 1950’s
Born(1906-06-01)June 1, 1906
DiedFebruary 24, 1999(1999-02-24) (aged 92)
ResidenceMilan
NationalityItalian
Occupationfashion designer and couturier
Known forLong-term stylist of Maria Callas[1][2][3]
Spouse(s)Robert Bouyeure[4]
ChildrenRoberta Bouyeure[4]
RelativesGiacomo Puccini (step grandfather)

Elvira Leonardi Bouyeure (June 1, 1906 – February 24, 1999),[4][5] known as Biki,[6] the granddaughter of composer Giacomo Puccini,[1] was a notable Italian fashion designer and couturier of the post-war period based in Milan.[6] Her clients were mainly connected to the La Scala opera theatre.[1] Biki is known as the creator of the style for Maria Callas[1][7] who she first met in 1951 at a dinner party organized by Wally Toscanini.[2]

Biography[edit]

Bouyeure was born in Milan on June 1, 1906.[5] She studied at A. Manzoni linguistic school where she also learned music and singing.[4] Bouyeure travelled to Paris many times and decided to learn fashion. After a few years apprenticeship she created a line of French-style underwear named "Domina" (the name was proposed by the poet Gabriele D'Annunzio who was a friend of the Puccini family).[4]

On May 5, 1936, she opened her atelier in Milano in 1936 on via Senato[4][5] catering mostly to La Scala opera theatre actors.[1] Her long-term cooperation with Maria Callas started in 1954.[1]

Biki designed a plain black evening cape in wool crepe for Callas that she wore for the 1970 opening of the Teatro alla Scala season in Milan, a paisley coat in 1971,[8] and also a floor-length dress with silk satin collar which she wore in 1973 for the farewell concert at the Royal Festival Hall in London.[2]

She worked with Italian fashion photographer Johnny Moncada in 1967 and 1968 for the Linea Italiana magazine.[9]

Her atelier was located in Via Monte Napoleone.[10]

Bouyeure died on February 24, 1999.[2][5]

Personal life[edit]

Biki's name was given to her as a child by her step grandfather Puccini who called her Bicchi (Italian "birichina" for naughty girl).[11] She married art expert Robert Bouyeure in 1936.[4] They had a daughter named Roberta, born in 1937.[4]

References[edit]

  1. ^ a b c d e f Gian Luca Bauzano (2017-08-25). "Maria Callas, i segreti dello stile unico della prima diva mediatica" [Maria Callas, the secrets of the unique style of the first media diva]. Corriere della Sera (in Italian). Archived from the original on 2018-02-13. Retrieved 2018-02-13.
  2. ^ a b c d Olsen, Kerry (2017-02-21). "Maria Callas, From Reality to Runway". The New York Times. Archived from the original on 2017-02-21. Retrieved 2018-02-13.
  3. ^ Sally Williams (2007-11-04). "A Problem Mile Maria". The Sunday Telegraph. Retrieved 2018-02-13 – via pressreader.com.
  4. ^ a b c d e f g h Michela Panigo. "Elvira Leonardi Bouyeure (Biki)". enciclopediadelledonne.it (in Italian). Archived from the original on 2018-02-13. Retrieved 2018-02-13.
  5. ^ a b c d Paola Zonca (2004-10-07). "All' asta i gioielli della Biki la signora dell' alta moda" [Jewels of Biki, the lady of high fashion, at an auction]. la Repubblica (in Italian). Archived from the original on 2018-02-13. Retrieved 2018-02-13.
  6. ^ a b Marta Boneschi (2010-10-18). "La donna lombarda, una forza di modernità e di integrazione" [The Lombard woman, a force of modernity and integration]. Corriere della Sera (in Italian). Archived from the original on 2018-02-13. Retrieved 2018-02-13.
  7. ^ Evelin Ojamets (2017-05-22). "Biki - the style creator of diva Callas". nordicfashionistalifestyle.com. Archived from the original on 2018-02-13. Retrieved 2018-02-13.
  8. ^ Rosalind McKever (2014-04-16). "Review: Made in Italy, 'The Glamour of Italian Fashion' at the V&A". Apollo. Archived from the original on 2018-02-13. Retrieved 2018-02-13.
  9. ^ "Made in Italy". johnnymoncada.com. Retrieved 2017-12-27.
  10. ^ Potvin, John, ed. (2013-01-11). "The Places and Spaces of Fashion, 1800-2007". Routledge. p. 149. ISBN 978-1-1360-8610-6. Retrieved 2017-12-27 – via Google Books.
  11. ^ Umberto De Agostino (2017-09-28). "L'amica di Marta Marzotto: "Così le rubai il fidanzato"" [Marta Marzotto's friend: «So I stole her boyfriend»]. La Provincia Pavese (in Italian). Archived from the original on 2018-02-13. Retrieved 2018-02-13.