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Lisa Rands

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Lisa Rands
Personal information
NationalityAmerican
Born (1975-10-21) October 21, 1975 (age 49)
California
Climbing career
Type of climberBouldering
Highest grade
Known forFirst American female to climb V11 and V12
Updated on 25 April 2016

Lisa Rands is an American rock climber born in 1975. She is known for her bouldering, competition wins, and ascents of gritstone routes.

Biography

She was first introduced to climbing while studying for her geology degree.[1] In her early climbing years she aspired to every kind of climbing from bouldering to big walls, and even aid lines. The first American to rank 1st in an international bouldering World Cup (see competition), she has won many competitions indoors and out, and also excelled in outdoor bouldering. Lisa is the first American woman to climb the elite level bouldering grades V11(8A) and V12(8A+). Rands is known for having climbed Midnight Lightning (v8) and Plain High Drifter (V11) (both considered elite level boulder problems) between 2000 and 2002, and was the first woman to succeed on the problem The Mandala (v12) in January 2008.[2]

Rands has also had successes in traditional climbing, being the first woman to achieve the grade of E8, with ascents of The End of the Affair at Curbar Edge in October 2004, and Gaia at Black Rocks in April 2006, both in England's Peak District; these routes are notorious as being both extremely hard and extremely dangerous, with a fall carrying the most disastrous consequences for the climber. She also made a fast all-free ascent of Saint Exupery Spire in Patagonia and has sport climbed 5.13d/5.14a in China.


She lived in Bishop, California for many years with her husband, Wills, who is her coach.[3] They now live in Chattanooga, TN where she continues to coach and climb outdoors.[4]

Competition

Lisa Rands became the first American Female to win a Bouldering World Cup in June 2002 when she placed first at Lecco, Italy. To some surprise but without a doubt deservedly the American climbed a near perfect Final to beat Corine Theroux, second and Sandrine Levet, third.[5]

In 2014 Rands won the Triple Crown outdoor bouldering competition which is a rigorous outdoor bouldering competition on the Southeast.[6]

Notable Ascents

  • V12(8A+)
    • The Mandala - Bishop (USA) - 18 January 2008 - First Female Ascent of the iconic and difficult boulder problem first climbed by Chris Sharma in 2000. At the time it was one of the most difficult female ascents in the world.

References

  1. ^ Lisa Rands biography at The North Face
  2. ^ "Buttermilks Mandala boulder climbed by Lisa Rands". planetmountain.com.
  3. ^ Lisa Rands Interview, Southeastern Climbers Coalition
  4. ^ https://rootsrated.com/stories/pro-climber-humble-coach-and-triple-crown-athlete-lisa-rands
  5. ^ http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/competitions/lisa-rands-wins-bouldering-world-cup-at-lecco.html
  6. ^ https://rootsrated.com/stories/pro-climber-humble-coach-and-triple-crown-athlete-lisa-rands
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