The Chain O'Lakes is a waterway system in northeast Illinois composed of 15 lakes connected by the Fox River and man-made channels. Encompassing more than 7,100 acres (29 km2) of water, 488 miles (785 km) of shoreline and 45 miles (72 km) of river, the Chain is the busiest inland recreational waterway per acre in the United States. Located on the border of Lake County and McHenry County, about an hour's drive from the cities of Chicago, Milwaukee, and Rockford, the lakes are popular with boaters and fishermen drawing weekend crowds of 30,000 and holiday crowds of 100,000 people. Additionally, the Chain O'Lakes includes Chain O'Lakes State Park which borders three lakes at the Northwest corner of the system. The Fox Waterway Agency, a special local governing body, is responsible for oversight of the Chain O'Lakes.
The Chain O'Lakes is composed of ten lakes connected by the Fox River and another five lakes by small canals and channels (with limited access). Of the ten lakes connected by the Fox River, three of the lakes are natural lakes. The three natural lakes are Grass Lake, Lake Marie and Nippersink Lake. The other seven lakes connected by the Fox River are Bluff Lake, Fox Lake, Pistakee Lake, Channel Lake, Petite Lake, Lake Catherine and Redhead Lake. The remaining five lakes of the system are Duck Lake, Long Lake, Spring Lake, Dunns Lake and Brandenburg Lake.
The Chain O'Lakes system begins at the Illinois/ Wisconsin border. The Fox River travels down near the border between McHenry County and Lake County in Illinois as it flows from the state border to the first lake in the Chain, Grass Lake. Grass Lake is the shallowest lake on the Chain with an average depth of 3 feet (0.91 m). Grass Lake is also the third largest lake on the Chain, with an approximate area of 1,360 acres (5.5 km2). Pistakee Lake and Fox Lake are the two largest lakes on the Chain, each with an area of 1,700 acres (6.9 km2). Grass Lake directly connects to Fox Lake and both lakes connect to Pistakee Lake through Nippersink Lake. The Fox River exits the Chain O'Lakes at the southwest corner of Pistakee Lake.
The following table lists the sizes (and depths if given) of nine of the fifteen lakes on the Chain. The information provided is from the Fox Waterway Agency website.
|Lake Name||Area (acres)||Avg. Depth (ft)|
In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Grass Lake was a "stretch of wild rice and lotus," with lotus beds blossoming in this lake that constituted over half of the total in all the lakes. In the early 20th century some boats, due to the shallow water and density of lotuses, had to use a pole ("poling") rather than oars ("rowing"). During the 1950s through the 1970s, much of the lotus disappeared, but there has been a revival in recent years.
There is a historical location in Grass Lake, derived from the tourists who came to see the lotus. At first, this location was known as Rohema, but also known by the name Shorty's, after the owner Shorty Shobin. Shorty, however was not the only entrepreneur on the lake. Jack O' Conner owned a houseboat about 100 yards from Shorty, and one night in a card match they wagered their businesses, O'Conner won. O'Conner moved his business to the island naming it Lotus Lodge Hotel, then Hotel Blarney, and finally, Blarney Island.
Several towns and cities surround the Chain O'Lakes System. Although open to some interpretation, towns bordering the Chain O'Lakes include Fox Lake, Fox Lake Hills, Lake Villa, Antioch, Spring Grove, Pistakee Highlands, Johnsburg, Volo, McHenry and Ingleside. Central to the system is the town of Fox Lake, in between Pistakee Lake and Fox Lake.
Several major highways and state routes cross over and travel around the Chain O'Lakes. The following table lists the major roads in the Chain O'Lakes region and a brief description about the location of the route.
The Chain O'Lakes were formed when the Wisconsin glacier melted, leaving behind many of the lakes now present in the Fox River Valley, including those in the Chain. The Chain O'Lakes region was originally inhabited by various Native American tribes. During the first European visits to the area, the central Algonquian Tribes inhabited the region including the Miami, Mascouten and Potawatomi tribes. The first European explorers to the region were French trappers and traders in the Mid-17th century, including Joliet and Marquette.
In the 19th century, a few European's began to settle the area. Included in these early settlers were the Dunnill family and Converse Marble, both of whom settled near the border between Pistakee Lake and Nippersink Lake. At that time, the only connection between the two lakes was the Fox River (commonly referred to as the "long channel.") In order to benefit both of their properties, the Dunnills and Converse Marble dug by hand a new channel between the two lakes which became known as "the Cut" (most likely meaning "shortcut.") The "Cut" caused a strong current and fresher water along the east shore of Nippersink Lake. Today, the channel has become deep and wide, being heavily traveled by boaters.
Until the 1880s, European settlements remained sparse in the area due to the difficulty of travel resulting from the wet areas surrounding the Chain. Starting in the 1890s, the area started to become a popular retreat destination for Chicagoans, with many visitors traveling to the region to take boat trips to see Fox Lake's "Egyptian Lotus" beds.
Early 20th century
The Chain O'Lakes region saw a boom in development at the start of the 20th century with the introduction of the Milwaukee Road railroad in 1901. The railroad crossed the Chain at its narrowest point between Pistakee Lake and Nippersink Lake, the current location of the US Route 12 crossing. A station was built near the crossing, named Nippersink Point, which would become the center of the Fox Lake community. The railroad provided effective access to the area for Chicago residents, leading to a boom in tourism. This boom in tourism led to the development of several new resorts, which supplemented older resorts such as the famous Mineola.
Soon, however, the boom in tourism drew the attention of Lake County leaders, who ordered raids on the numerous unlicensed drinking and gambling establishments. To avoid further raids and fines from the county government, several resort leaders united, incorporating the town of Fox Lake in 1907. When it was incorporated, Fox Lake only had a few hundred residents but its summer season population was estimated at 20,000. The new town government placed very few restraints on its resorts with 48 liquor licenses issued just prior to prohibition. Even after the start of prohibition, enforcement was relatively low in the region, helping to draw Chicagoans interested in drinking and gambling.
The region is also famous for its hosting of prohibition gangsters, including the infamous Al Capone. Al Capone owned a summer house on Bluff Lake near Antioch. He was also known for frequenting the famous Mineola Hotel in Fox Lake. Additionally, Al Capone's major rival, George "Bugs" Moran, supplied beer and alcohol throughout the Chain O'Lakes region with stories of him staying at a liquor partner's home on Channel Lake and being arrested at Elizabeth Cassidy's resort on Bluff Lake. The region saw its worst prohibition violence on June 1, 1930 when a mob-related hit was carried out at Manning's Hotel in Fox Lake. Five people were shot with a machine-gun including members of the Druggan gang, of which three people were killed. Occurring a year after the Saint Valentine's Day massacre, the shooting represented the intensity of the battle to control the Chain's lucrative gambling and liquor business. The crime was never solved.
Mid 20th century to present
Following the roaring twenties, the Great Depression hit the area hard. The numerous resorts around the Chain began to disappear signaling the end of the region's heyday as a tourist destination. During this time, many of the summer cottages began being converted to permanent residences, a trend which continued as soldiers returned home from World War II. Following the war, the area began to modernize, transitioning to a middle-class community. In addition to bringing in weekend vacationers, the trains now serve the growing suburban worker population who travel into Chicago. As of the 2000 census, the population of Fox Lake was estimated at over 9,000 people, a major growth from the few hundred permanent residents when the town was incorporated in 1907. The area now reflects a unique blend of year-round residents and summer vacationers.
The Chain O'Lakes allows for a wide range of outdoor recreational activities, including boating, hunting, fishing, birdwatching, swimming and water skiing. To complement these activities are many local businesses (including numerous marinas and restaurants) that serve the needs of weekend and summer vacationers. Many of these businesses sponsor special events throughout the summer, including boat races, fishing tournaments and live musical performances. Boating horsepower is unrestricted on the Chain and there are more than 28,000 registered boats on the Chain (as of 2009).
Recreational opportunities are also provided through Chain O'Lakes State Park and the adjacent conservation area. Established in 1945, Chain O'Lakes State Park includes a free boat launch and a variety of hunting, hiking and fishing areas. The park includes Turner Lake, a small 44-acre (180,000 m2) lake in the park isolated from the Chain itself. Inside the park are four different trail systems, including a quarter-mile trail designed for disabled individuals and an eight mile (13 km) equestrian trail. Chain O'Lakes State Park also offers a number of camp sites and cabins available for a low nightly fee. Horse rentals and boat rentals are provided throughout the summer months.
The Chain O'Lakes is a preferred destination for fishermen as well. Species found in the Chain O'Lakes include walleye, largemouth bass, muskellunge, yellow perch, bluegill, catfish, black crappie, bullhead, white bass, yellow bass, carp, and northern pike. The Illinois Department of Natural Resources report that approximately 10% of their annual muskie samples are over 3 feet (0.91 m), 6 inches long. Northern pikes and muskies in the trophy class are occasionally caught on the Chain. A status of the sport fishery of the lakes regarding these fish from 1954 to 2001 can be seen here.
The Chain O'Lakes also hosts a variety of winter activities, including snow mobiling, ice skating, cross-country skiing and ice fishing.
The Chain O'Lakes is home to hundreds of businesses. Businesses on the Chain include marinas, boat vendors, resorts, campgrounds, restaurants and bars. Among the most famous of these are Blarney Island bar on Grass Lake and the Mineola resort on Fox Lake.
Blarney Island is a large bar on Grass Lake that is only accessible by boat. The bar is built about a mile from shore on a series of pilings embedded in the shallow lake bed of Grass Lake. Although many facts about the establishment have been lost with time, local legend has it that Blarney Island evolved from a poker bet between Jack O'Connor and Shorty Shobin. In the very early 20th century, Jack and Shorty were rival businessmen on the Chain operating lotus bed tours only a hundred yards apart. The competition between the two came to a head one evening during a poker game in which each man bet his business. Ultimately, Shorty Shobin lost the hand and his business, at which point he got up from the table and entered the backroom of the bar where he took his own life. Sometime later, after Jack O'Connor lost his establishment to a fire, he used Shorty's location to form Blarney Island (as it was known by 1923.) The bar began a boat shuttle service to the island in 1972, started hosting live music in 1975 and started its famous boat races in 1978. The bar has continued to grow its business throughout the years and totes the slogan "A Mile Away from Reality" reflecting both its location and its mentality. Blarney Island embodies the overall free party attitude present throughout the Chain and has become a staple of the region.
Another well known business on the Chain is the stately Mineola Resort. The Mineola Hotel was built in 1894 by Chicago businessmen and has 100 rooms. It is the largest wooden structure in Illinois and is on the National Register of Historic Places. The resort was popular with the gangsters of the 1920s and the Chicago Tribune stated that the Mineola was "probably the most vicious resort" in the area. The Mineola still displays Al Capone's hat in a glass case in the lounge of the hotel. Today, the Mineola continues to operate as a restaurant and banquet facility while illuminating the area's past as a resort town.
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