Marcus Wareing

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Marcus Wareing
Born 1970 (age 43–44)
Southport, Lancashire
Education City & Guilds in Catering
Culinary career
Cooking style European cuisine
Website
Marcus-Wareing.com

Marcus Wareing is an English celebrity chef, currently Chef Patron of Marcus in Knightsbridge, and formerly Pétrus in the same location. He also oversees The Gilbert Scott at the St. Pancras Renaissance London Hotel and has lent a menu to the Aalto at the Hotel La Tour in Birmingham. Wareing has previously been head chef at L’Oranger and the Grill Room at the Savoy Hotel.

He has had a long-standing partnership and rivalry with Gordon Ramsay; the pair first met at Le Gavroche under Albert Roux. The partnership would dissolve during publicised disagreement in 2008 when the Berkeley Hotel decided to work directly with Wareing rather than through Ramsay's holding company and the following legal arrangement resulted in Ramsay retaining the rights to the Pétrus name while Wareing went on to open his restaurant in the location. Wareing won the dessert course of the 2006 series of the BBC's Great British Menu, and would appear as a judge in later series of the show, although his first television appearance was in the Ramsay based show Boiling Point.

Early life[edit]

Wareing was born in Southport, Merseyside, in 1970.[1] His father was a fruit and potato merchant who had contracts with schools to provide their produce for school dinners.[2][3] At the age of eleven his first food industry related job was with his father,[4] packing potatoes and riding alongside deliveries.[5] He was paid 10p per 5 pounds (2.3 kg) bag of potatoes packed, all of which went straight into his Post Office saving account.[4] At a young age, Marcus was informed by his father that the business was no longer viable as schools moved onto using pre-prepared frozen food instead of fresh produce.[2] He would later credit his father's long hours with inspiring his own work ethic.[3]

At Stanley High School,[6] he found he had a natural talent for cooking although he felt embarrassed that he was the only boy in the home economics class.[2] He went on to attend Southport College, where he took a three-year City & Guilds course in catering.[7]

Career[edit]

He first worked at the Savoy Hotel under chef Anton Edelmann in 1988 at the age of 18 where he was employed as a commis chef,[6][8] before leaving in 1993 to join Albert Roux at Michelin starred Le Gavroche where he first met Gordon Ramsay.[1][9] Stints at other restaurants in New York City, Amsterdam and at Gravetye Manor in Sussex followed.[1] Wareing joined Gordon Ramsay's Aubergine when it opened in 1993, where he became Sous Chef behind Head Chef Ramsay and would go on to work with him over the course of the following fifteen years, which led to Wareing being called Ramsay's protégé.[10][11][12] While he was at Aubergine in 1995, he was awarded the title of Young Chef of the Year by the Restaurant Association.[1]

He would later credit Ramsay with teaching him to cook, describing it as "the most important time in my life".[9] He left Aubergine for a year in 1995 to work with Daniel Boulud in America, and Guy Savoy in France. His return to the UK was also to be his first head chef role, of new restaurant L’Oranger, which was owned by A-Z Restaurants, which had also owned Aubergine, with stakes held by both Wareing and Ramsay.[1] At the age of 25, he earned his first Michelin star as head chef whilst at L’Oranger.[5] He gave Angela Hartnett her first job in a restaurant.[13]

Following a fall out between Ramsay and A-Z Restaurants over Wareing's contract at L'Oranger,[14] which saw Ramsay quit Aubergine to open Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, Wareing followed suit by leaving L'Oranger, forcing the restaurant into temporary closure.[15][16] A-Z Restaurants commenced legal proceedings against the pair, and reopened L’Oranger with Wareing's former sous chef, Kamel Benamar, as the new head chef.[15] The legal case ended in Ramsay and Wareing paying an out of court settlement to the Restaurant group.[17] Ramsay and Wareing worked together to open Pétrus in 1999, with Wareing becoming head chef and operating the restaurant on behalf of Gordon Ramsay Holdings (GRH), at 33 St James's Street, London.[1] The name came from the French wine Pétrus, which was Ramsay's and Wareing's favourite.[18] Wareing promptly regained the Michelin star he had previously held, with Pétrus being named as a one star restaurant seven months after opening.[13]

The restaurant was moved into the Berkeley Hotel in 2003 where it replaced Pierre Koffmann's La Tante Claire,[13] in the same year that Wareing became Chef Patron of the Grill Room at the Savoy Hotel,[1] and he was named Chef of the Year by Caterer and Hotelkeeper's Catey Awards.[11] The return to the Savoy meant that he was competing against Anton Edelmann, his former boss from the River Room at the hotel. Rather than serve a menu similar to the French driven Pétrus, Wareing chose to continue to serve the British cuisine that the Grill Room was known for, including his take on previous menu items such as steak and kidney pudding and potted shrimps.[13] Pétrus went on to be awarded two Michelin stars and five AA Rosettes, while the Savoy Grill achieved its first Michelin star in the hotel's history in 2004.[1] He also opened his take on an American diner at The Savoy called Banquette, and converted the previous Pétrus location into La Fleur.[6] He was voted Restaurateur of the Year at the Tatler Restaurant Awards in 2004, and Harden's restaurant guide selected him as the fourth best chef in London,[1] although La Fleur closed due to problems with the lease for the site.[6]

Following several months of rumours regarding the restaurant, the Berkeley Hotel confirmed in May 2008 that it was going to work with Wareing to launch its his only solo restaurant, and he would take on Pétrus' lease from 19 September 2008 onwards.[19] Wareing had previously complained of interference in the kitchen by GRH,[2] and wanted to come out from under Ramsay's shadow,[20] but later admitted that he had engineered the situation so that he could go out on his own.[6] The split with Ramsay and GRH resulted in a public legal battle and feud between the three parties,[20] which when resolved resulted in Wareing stating in an interview for Waitrose Food Illustrated magazine that Ramsay left him bitter and conflicted; "half of me thinks he’s a sad bastard and the other half still adores him."[10] He went on to describe Ramsay as a celebrity chef who wasn't involved in the industry anymore.[10] The legal dispute was resolved with Ramsay gaining the rights to the Pétrus name, and Wareing signing a gag order regarding the situation but continuing to open his restaurant Marcus Wareing at The Berkeley.[2][4] Wareing remarked of the situation, "If I never speak to that guy again for the rest of my life, it wouldn't bother me one bit."[20] Ramsay later responded regarding the feud that he wishes Wareing "all the best".[21] Wareing's self-named restaurant won the Best Restaurant in London Award by Harden's guide in 2008 and 2009,[22] was awarded two Michelin stars in 2009,[6] and was named Time Out's restaurant of the year in 2010.[21] The new Pétrus was opened around the corner from the Berkeley Hotel at 1 Kinnerton Street, Knightsbridge. Ramsay later joked, that with Heston Blumenthal also opening his new restaurant nearby, the three of them could "all have a fight in the street at four in the morning".[21]

In 2009 Wareing was named by magazine GQ as their chef of the year.[8] In 2011 Wareing opened his second restaurant, called The Gilbert Scott, in the St. Pancras Renaissance Hotel. GRH had also made a bid to open a restaurant in the space, but was rejected in favour of Wareing's proposal.[23] The restaurant was named after the architect of the hotel, Sir George Gilbert Scott.[24] Wareing doesn't work in the kitchen itself,[9] with the restaurant being run by head chef Chantelle Nicholson,[2] but he takes an active interest in the proceedings conducting taste tests and dealing with staff.[25] He believes in promoting seasonal British food in his menus, and using small suppliers,[26] and has also said that he is not aiming for Michelin stars with The Gilbert Scott, but intending to create something affordable.[23]

At 10 Downing Street in 2012, Wareing met Ramsay for the first time in five years. The pair simply greeted each other and went on their way.[25] In May 2012, he helped to launch Aalto, a restaurant inside the Hotel La Tour in Birmingham, West Midlands.[27] While it is not his restaurant, the menu is similar to that served at Wareing's Gilbert Scott and the team at the restaurant were trained by Wareing's employees.[25]

In 2013 Wareing's two restaurants failed hygiene inspections.[28] Wareing was instructed to call in pest control experts to control a fly infestation. The restaurant also stored raw fish above cooked crab in the fish fridge and staff were washing their hands without soap. The restaurant was awarded just one out of five for hygiene and became subject to repeat inspections to check compliance.

Television and other media[edit]

Wareing was first featured on television in the Channel 4 1998 documentary series Boiling Point, documenting his time as Gordon Ramsay's sous chef, his move to Pétrus and the award of his first Michelin star.[13] He was also selected as one of thirteen chefs chosen to recreate Leonardo da Vinci's The Last Supper in 2003. The work was photographed by John Reardon, and features Wareing throwing a brie across into the air whilst standing in the place of Simon the Zealot from Leonardo's work.[29] In 2006, Marcus Wareing and Simon Rimmer represented the North of England in the BBC television series Great British Menu. Wareing beat the Manchester-based chef to go on to the final round. In the final the public chose for him to cook his dessert of egg custard tart with Garibaldi biscuits for the Queen's 80th birthday banquet which was on 17 June 2006.[1][5]

He has continued to be a judge for later seasons for the Great British Menu, something which has occasionally brought him into conflict with other chefs such as Johnnie Mountain.[30] He has criticized some shows in the past such as MasterChef, saying that it has inspired young chefs to chase fame on television and be lazy in the kitchen,[31] although he has appeared on MasterChef, MasterChef: The Professionals and Celebrity MasterChef in the past.

Personal life[edit]

He has a brother named Brian, who is a catering teacher.[32] Marcus is married to Jane, with whom he has three children, Jake, Archie and Jessie.[33] He met Jane while he worked at Gravetye Manor, where he was second chef and she worked on reception. After moving to London to work with Ramsay at Aubergine, Wareing kept the relationship going by commuting out to Sussex every Sunday.[13] Ramsay was the best man at his wedding in 2000,[10] and is godfather to Wareing's eldest son Jake. Marcus lives with his family near Wandsworth Common,[33] in a property purchased for £1.3 million.[4]

He has raised money for the charity Action Against Hunger, whilst working at the Taste of London festival,[34] and is to compete in a charity boxing competition with other chefs and catering staff for the Hilton In The Community Foundation,[35] having been an amateur boxer in his youth from the age of nine until he was eighteen.[2][13] He has lent his name to the Environmental Justice Foundation campaign to promote sustainable fishing.[36] Wareing has said his favourite cookbook is one by chef Daniel Humm at Eleven Madison Park in New York City.[9]

Published works[edit]

References[edit]

  1. ^ a b c d e f g h i j "Marcus Wareing". Caterer & Hotelkeeper. 21 September 2006. Retrieved 27 April 2008. 
  2. ^ a b c d e f g Johnston, Jenny (6 May 2011). "Feud glorious feud! Marcus Wareing almost lost it all when he fell out with friend and mentor Gordon Ramsay but now he says he’s having the last laugh...". Daily Mail (London). Retrieved 22 July 2012. 
  3. ^ a b Wareing, Marcus (15 May 2011). "Soul Food: Marcus Wareing on his mother's pork chops". The Daily Telegraph (London). Retrieved 22 July 2012. 
  4. ^ a b c d Anstead, Mark (12 November 2009). "Fame & Fortune: Chef Marcus Wareing". The Daily Telegraph (London). Retrieved 22 July 2012. 
  5. ^ a b c Englehart, Katie (2 September 2011). "FT Foodies: Marcus Wareing". Financial Times. Retrieved 22 July 2012. 
  6. ^ a b c d e f "Caterer and Hotelkeeper 100: Marcus Wareing, Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley, the Gilbert Scott". Caterer and Hotelkeeper. 1 July 2011. Retrieved 22 July 2012. 
  7. ^ "Marcus Wareing". Lifestyle Food. Retrieved 22 July 2012. 
  8. ^ a b "Marcus Wareing". Slow Food UK. Retrieved 22 July 2012. 
  9. ^ a b c d "My Life In Food: Marcus Wareing". The Independent (London). 20 January 2012. Retrieved 22 July 2012. 
  10. ^ a b c d Singh, Anita (28 July 2008). "Gordon Ramsay savaged by fellow chef Marcus Wareing". The Daily Telegraph (London). Retrieved 22 July 2012. 
  11. ^ a b "Marcus Wareing – how to succeed as a chef". Caterer.com. Retrieved 22 July 2012. 
  12. ^ "Gordon Ramsay Biography". bio. Retrieved 22 July 2012. 
  13. ^ a b c d e f g Grigg, Casilda (5 April 2003). "Goodbye, Melba toast". The Daily Telegraph. Retrieved 22 July 2012. 
  14. ^ "A-Z claims £1m from Ramsay and Wareing". Caterer and Hotelkeeper. 21 January 1999. Retrieved 30 July 2012. 
  15. ^ a b Fingleton, David (26 June 1999). "Restaurant: Petrus and L'Oranger". The Spectator. Retrieved 22 July 2012.  (subscription required)
  16. ^ "L'Oranger loses more kitchen staff". Caterer and Hotelkeeper. 1 October 1998. Retrieved 30 July 2012. 
  17. ^ "A-Z and Ramsay settle row". Caterer and Hotelkeeper. 10 May 2000. Retrieved 30 July 2012. 
  18. ^ Hickman, Martin (6 June 2009). "Battle of the chefs as Ramsay opens new Petrus". The Independent. Retrieved 23 June 2012.  (subscription required)
  19. ^ Afiya, Amanda (27 May 2008). "Marcus Wareing leaves Ramsay to work directly with Berkeley hotel". Caterer and Hotelkeeper. Retrieved 27 May 2008. 
  20. ^ a b c Walden, Celia (1 October 2009). "Marcus Wareing: 'wanting to be like Gordon Ramsay would make me a failure'". The Daily Telegraph (London). Retrieved 22 July 2012. 
  21. ^ a b c Garfield, Simon (14 March 2010). "Gordon Ramsay: 'I was a crazy psycho'". The Guardian (London). Retrieved 22 July 2012. 
  22. ^ Fleming, Amy (1 October 2009). "Marcus Wareing may have fallen out with Gordon Ramsay, but he now runs London's best restaurant". The Guardian. Retrieved 22 July 2012. 
  23. ^ a b Moore-Bridger, Benedict (25 February 2011). "Marcus Wareing's joy at beating mentor Ramsay in bid for restaurant". Evening Standard. Retrieved 22 July 2012. 
  24. ^ Kühn, Kerstin (9 March 2011). "Marcus Wareing delays the opening of Gilbert Scott restaurant". Caterer and Hotelkeeper. Retrieved 11 March 2011. 
  25. ^ a b c McComb, Richard (11 May 2012). "Marcus Wareing on his work with Hotel La Tour and Aalto restaurant". Birmingham Post. Retrieved 22 July 2012. 
  26. ^ Wareing, Marcus (23 September 2011). "Marcus Wareing's diary". Evening Standard. Retrieved 22 July 2012. 
  27. ^ Alleyne, Richard (10 May 2012). "Marcus Wareing blasts 'clueless and lazy' young workers". The Daily Telegraph (London). Retrieved 22 July 2012. 
  28. ^ "Kitchen nightmare for celebrity chef Marcus Wareing as hygiene inspectors fail his two Michelin star restaurant after finding flies and E.coli risk". Daily Mail (London). 
  29. ^ "Chefs' Last Supper". National Portrait Gallery. Retrieved 22 July 2012. 
  30. ^ Manzoori-Stamford, Janie (9 May 2012). "Great British Menu 2012: Marcus Wareing vs Johnnie Mountain". Caterer and Hotelkeeper. Retrieved 22 July 2012. 
  31. ^ "Marcus Wareing: Lazy young chefs only want fame". Evening Standard. 11 May 2012. Retrieved 22 July 2012. 
  32. ^ "Tuition". Eating Inn. Retrieved 30 July 2012. 
  33. ^ a b Loader Wilkinson, Tara (11 March 2011). "Chef Marcus Wareing Caters to His Children". Wall Street Journal. Retrieved 30 July 2012. 
  34. ^ "Marcus Wareing". Action Against Hunger. Retrieved 30 July 2012. 
  35. ^ "Rumble in the Kitchen". Rumble in the Kitchen – 20 September 2012. Retrieved 22 July 2012. 
  36. ^ Ruddick, Peter (11 June 2012). "Restauranteurs urged to join chefs including Anna Hansen and Marcus Wareing in 'Save the Sea' campaign". Big Hospitality. Retrieved 22 July 2012. 

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