Savaiʻi

For the mythical original homeland of the Polynesian peoples (sometimes referred to as Savai'i), see Hawaiki.

Savai'i island

Nickname: Soul of Samoa
Geography
Location	Pacific Ocean
Coordinates	13°35′S 172°25′W
Administration
Samoa
Demographics
Population	43,103

Savaiʻi is the largest island in Samoa and the biggest landmass in Polynesia outside Hawaii and New Zealand. The island of Savai'i is also referred to by Samoans as Salafai, a classical Samoan term used in oratory and prose.

Savai'i is made up of six itūmālō (political districts). Each district is made up of villages with strong traditional ties of kinship, history, land and matai chief titles. There are also some limited ecotourism development which operate mostly within the villages.

The Mau, Samoa's non-violent movement for political independence during colonialism in the early 1900s, had its beginnings on Savai'i with the Mau a Pule movement.

Society & Cutlure

Young women making ava (kava), 1911

Fa'a Samoa, the unique traditional culture and way of life in Samoan society, remains strong in Savai'i where there are fewer signs of modern life and less development than the island of Upolu where the capital Apia is situated. Samoan society is communal and based on extended family relationships and socio-cultural obligations, so that kinship and geneologies are important. These fa'a Samoa values are also associated with concepts of love (alofa), service (tautua) to family and community, respect (fa'aaloalo) and discipline (usita'i).Like the rest of Samoa, Savai'i is made up of villages with most of the land collectively owned by families or 'aiga.' The heads of the family are 'matai,' the Samoan word for chief. An extended family can have a number of chiefs with different chief titles. Matai can be men or women who are bestowed their titles by consensus of the extended family. Traditionally, male and female roles are defined by labours and tasks, chiefly status and age. Women play an important role contributing to family decisions as well as village governance.Elders are revered and respected. Social relationships are dictated by cultural etiquettes of politeness and common greetings. In all villages, the majority of people are largely sustained by plantation work and fishing with financial assistance from relatives working in Apia or overseas. Savai'i is home to approximately 43,000 (2006) people who live by the coast although there are some settlements inland. Behind the villages are cultivated plantations with crops of taro, coconuts, yams, cocoa, ava, fruit and vegetables as well other native planst such as flax for weaving mats. There is a church in every village, mostly Christian denominations.Sunday is sacred and a day of rest as 98% of Samoans are religious. A tar sealed road connects all the villages around the island which are serviced by local buses and local taxis in some areas.

Politics

Samoan meeting house, Lelepa village, Savai'i (2009). Samoan architecture dictates seating positions for chiefs and orators according to rank.

With the country's independence in 1962, Samoa incorporates both traditional political structures alongside a western parliamentary system. The modern national Government of Samoa, based in the capital Apia with the roles of Prime Minister, Members of Parliament and western styled political structure, is referred to as the 'Malo'. Only individuals with chief 'matai' titles are eligible to become Members of Parliament.

Alongside Samoa's national and modern political structure is traditional authority vested in family chiefs (matai).

The term Pule is applied to traditional authority in Savai'i. The word Pule is not the name of an individual, but refers to appointments or authorities conferred on certain clans or individuals, sometime in the political history of Samoa. This traditional Pule authority was centred in certain villages around Savai'i. In the early 20th century, these Pule areas on Savai'i island were Safotulafai, Saleaula, Safotu, Asau, Satupa'itea and Palauli.Safotu, Asau, Satupa'itea and Vailoa (Palauli) gained 'Pule' status at different times in the 19th Century, and together with the two older Pule districts, Safotulafai and Saleaula, became the six Pule centres on Savai'i.The term Tumua is associated with traditional authority on Upolu island.

At the local village level throughout Samoa, traditional authority is vested in a chiefs' village council (Fono) combining the heads of extended families in each village. The Fono carry out 'village law' and socio-political governance based on their traditional authority and fa'a Samoa. The authority of the 'matai' is balanced against central government, the Malo. Most of the matai are males, however, the women in each village also have a voice in domestic affairs through the women's village committees.

The main government administration offices on Savai'i are located in the village of Tuasivi, 10 minutes north of the ferry terminal and market at Salelologa. There's a district hospital, police station, post office and court houses in Tuasivi.

Savai'i has six political electoral divisions, Fa'asaleleaga, Gaga'emauga, Gaga'ifomauga, Palauli, Satupa'itea and Vaisigano.

Scenery & Landscape

Samoa scenic coastline

Savai'i is mountainous, fertile and surrounded by coral reefs. Lonely Planet describes the Savai'i landscape as 'spectacular tropical terrain'.The island has a gently sloping profile, reaching a maximum altitude of 1,858 metres at Mt Silisili, the highest peak in Samoa. Volcanic craters in the highlands are strung across the central ridges from Tuasivi (literally, backbone) village in the east towards Cape Mulinu'u to the west. The lava fields at Saleaula village on the central north coast are the result of volcanic eruptions from Mt Matavanu (1905 - 1911). Most of the coastline are palm fringed beaches and there are rainforests, waterfalls, caves, freshwater pools, blowholes and coral reefs. There are also numerous archaeological sites, including star mounds, fortifications and pyramids such as the Pulemelei Mound in Palauli district. Archaeology in Samoa has uncovered many pre-historic settlements including sites at Vailoa and Sapapali'i.

An island of myths & legends

Matautu village, north coast Savai'i (1902)

Samoan mythology tell stories of different gods. There were gods of the forest, the seas, rain, harvest, villages and war. There were two types of gods, atua who had non-human origins and aitu who were of human origin. Tagaloa was a supreme god who made the islands and the people. Mafui'e was the god of earthquakes. Rich in Polynesian history and oral tradition, Savai'i is mentioned in myths and legends across the Pacific Islands and has been called the Cradle of Polynesia. There were also a number of war gods. Nafanua, Samoa's warrior goddess hails from the village of Falealupo at the west end of the island, which is also the site of the entry into Pulotu, the spirit world. Nafanua's father Saveasi'uleo was the god of Pulotu.Another well known legend tells of two sisters Tilafaiga and Taema bringing the art of tattooing to Samoa. Tilafaiga is the mother of Nafanua. The sisters swam from Fiti carrying a basket of tattoo tools, stopping near the village of Falealupo to dive for a clam. The Mata o le Alelo 'Eyes of the Demon' freshwater pool from the Polynesian legend Sina and the Eel is situated in the village of Matavai on the north coast in the traditional district of Safune.Another figure of legend is Tui Fiti who resides at Fagamalo village in the traditional district of Matautu on the central north coast.

Savaiʻi is known as the ’soul of Samoa’. "Here the 20th century has put down the shallowest roots, and the faʻa Samoa – the Samoan way – has the most meaning."

Flora & Fauna

young Piper methysticum, dried root used to make ava or kava

Flora

The tropical climate and fertile soil results in a variety of flora. Vegetation types include littoral, wetland and volcanic vegetation. Rainforests include coastal, lowland and montane forests (above 500m elevation). Cloud forests are located in the highest elevations of the island which are often under cloud cover with wet conditions. At Mt Silisili, cloud forest occur above 1200m elevation. The Savai‘i forest is dominated by a 15 to 20 m high canopy of Dysoxylum huntii, Omalanthus acuminatus, Reynoldsia pleiosperma and Weinmannia samoense. Other common trees include Coprosma savaiiense, Psychotria xanthochlora, Spiraeanthemum samoense and Streblus anthropophagorum. There are nearly 500 species of flowering plants and about 200 species of ferns in Samoa, making it richer than that of any tropical Polynesian island other than those in the Hawaiian archipelago.About 25% of the species are endemic to Samoa.

The variety of tropical plantlife is also a material source for floral adornment, perfumes, tapa cloth, coconut oil as well as herbs and plants for traditional Samoan medicines.Common plants with everyday usage include the smooth reddish purple leaves of the ti (Dracaena terminalis) plant used with coconut oil for traditional massage, fofo, and the dried root stems of Piper methysticum (Piper Latin for "pepper", methysticum Greek for "intoxicating") are mixed with water for the important Ava Ceremony conducted during cultural events and gatherings.

File:Tooth-billed pigeon or Samoan Pigeon.jpg

Manumea Samoan pigeon

Fauna

Animal species include fruit bats such as the Samoa Flying-fox (Pteropus samoensis), land and sea birds, skinks and geckos. The avifauna of Samoa includes a total of 82 species, of which 10 are endemic. There are 5 species of frigatebirds worldwide and 2 species are found in Samoa. The Tooth-billed Pigeon, (Didunculus strigirostris), also known as Samoan Pigeon is confined to undisturbed forests. It is the national bird of Samoa and is called the Manumea. The surrounding Pacific Ocean, coral reefs and lagoons are rich in marine life and some are harvested as an important source of food. Dolphins, whales and porpoises migrate through Samoa's waters. The Palolo Reef Worm (Eunice viridis) is a Samoan cuisine delicacy which appear in the ocean only one day of the year. Palolo has cultural significance and entire villages flock to the sea for harvest.

There are wetlands in the village of Sato'alepai where large sea green turtles (Chelonia mydas) are kept by the locals as an eco-tourism experience for visitors. Surrounded by a variety of tropical fauna, Samoan mythology is rich with stories of animals incorporated into their culture, traditional beliefs and way of life.

Conservation

The Government of Samoa has developed conservation covenants for three natural areas on Savai'i, the Falealupo Rainforest Preserve, Tafua Rainforest Preserve and Aopo Cloud Forest Reserve. The conservation projects are a partnership between the local matai and villages, government, conservation organisations and international funding.

Travel information

Typical fishing canoe (va'a) in Samoa with small outrigger

Savai'i has an excellent tar-seal road circling the island. The scenic drive is mostly along the coastline where most of the locals live in villages. Salelologa is the main port and town, situated on the eastern end of the island where the inter-island ferry terminal is located. A regular passenger and vehicle ferry operates seven days a week between Salelologa and Mulifanua wharf on Upolu. The trip takes about 90-minutes. There's also a wharf at Asau at the north west coast of the island.

Maota Airport is a 10-minute drive south of Salelologa. Flights operate between Maota airstrip and Faleolo International Airport on Upolu. However, the schedule can be sporadic. The inter-island flights take about 10-minutes.Asau Airport is an airstrip at the north west end of the island which mainly services chartered flights.

A local market (open Monday - Saturday) at Salelologa sells fresh produce of fruit, vegetables and local crafts. There are also clothing stores, several small supermarkets, a wholesaler, petrol stations, bakeries, budget hotels and accommodation, buses, taxis, rental car companies as well as public amenities such as internet access, banks and Western Union money transfer outlets. There are small local shops in every village around Savai'i, selling basic groceries.

Eco-Tourism

Falealupo Beach Fales in late afternoon, Savai'i

Like the rest of Samoa, villages and locals all around the island of Savai'i operate beach fale accommodation, like the village of Manase on the north coast, catering to tourists and visitors. These are small local businesses run by families within their villages. Island tours, diving, and other tourism related activities, like swimming with turtles at Sato'alepai, are usually available. Most of the income generated goes directly back to the villages and locals.

The last sunset in the world

The village of Falealupo on the western most point of Savai'i, is just 20 miles from the dateline, and arguably the last place in the world to see the sunset each day. Falealupo was the site of Millenium 2000 celebrations and reported by the BBC as 'the last place on earth to enter the new millenium.' Falealupo also has protected rainforests.

Surfing

Savai'i has excellent surfing off reef breaks all around the island, with the best waves during summer on the north coast and the south coast in winter. The conditions are not for novice surfers and there can be dangerous undercurrents and rips. Satuiatua Beach Fales on the south-west coast is owned by locals and was one of the first tourism accommodations attracting surfers. Other surfing spots around Savai'i include breaks off the villages of Lano, Aganoa, Lelepa, Lefagaoali'i and Fagamalo. Most villages charge a fee of $10 Samoan tala a day.

Tourism Development

In 2008, an American company South Pacific Development Group (SPDG) obtained a 120-year lease for 600 acres of prime oceanfront customary land in Sasina, to build a luxury resort estimated to cost $450 - $500 million US dollars.The announcement raised concern among environmental group O Le Si'osi'omaga Society about the impact of the development.The Samoa Hotel Association also expressed concern at the size of the development and its impact on the island's environment and infrastructure.The development is supported by the Government of Samoa. The lease is unprecedented in Samoa where 80% of the land is under customary ownership, 6% freehold and the rest owned by the government.

Film

A village in Safune, the setting of the film Moana (1926)

Moana (1926), one of the earliest documentaries made in the world, was filmed in Safune on the central north coast. The film was directed by Robert J. Flaherty who lived with his wife and children in Safune for more than a year. A cave with a pool in Safune was converted into a film processing laboratory and two young men from the village were trained to work there. Flaherty cast people from Safune in the film including local boy Ta'avale who played the lead role of 'Moana.' Another boy called Pe'a played the role of Moana's younger brother. Pe'a later became a chief with the title Taulealeausumai from the village of Faletagaloa. Playing the lead female role in the film was Fa'agase, a girl from Lefagaoali'i. The film also showed the young hero 'Moana' receiving a pe'a, a traditional Samoan tattoo.

Geography

Taga Blowholes

Savai'i island is of volcanic origin and the mountainous interiors are covered with dense rain forests. The surrounding landscape consists of fertile plateaux and coastal plains with numerous rivers and streams.

Climate

The climate is oceanic tropical with high temperatures and humidity. The heaviest rainfall occurs between the months of November and April, and cyclones, which are relatively frequent, are most likely to occur during these same months.Two cyclones, Cyclone Ofa (1990) and Cyclone Valerie (1991)caused extensive damage on the north and west coast of Savai'i.

Geology

Savaiʻi is an active volcano, which last erupted in 1911 with lava flows. The island is formed by a massive basaltic shield volcano which rises from the seafloor of the western Pacific Ocean. Pre-historic geological formations have created natural sites such as the Alofa’aga Blowholes and Moso's Footprint. The Pe'ape'a Cave, named after the swallows that inhabit it, is a lava tube one kilometre in length, formed during the Mt Matavanu eruptions.

Volcanic activity

The island consists of a large shield volcano similar in form to the Hawaiian volcanoes. Savai'i remains volcanically active, with recent eruptions from Matavanu between 1905 and 1911. The Matavanu eruptions flowed towards the central north coast and destroyed villages including Saleaula. Other recent volcanic eruptions include Mata Ole Afi in 1902 and Mauga Afi in 1725. The lava field at Saleaula are extensive enough to be visible in high altitude photographs.

exiled orator Lauaki Namulauulu Mamoe

Historical

Notable Places & People

• Archaeology in Samoa has uncovered prehistoric settlements inland in many parts of the island including sites at Sapapali'i village and Vailoa in Palauli district.
• The exiled orator chief Lauaki Namulauulu Mamoe, leader of the Mau a Pule, a resistance group against colonial rule in the early 1900s, was from the traditional sub-district of Safotulafai.
• The missionary John Williams arrived in the village of Sapapali'i in 1830. Sapapali'i was also a base for the Malietoa title on Savai'i. A plaque by the main road in the village commemmorates Williams' landing.
• In pre-history, the village of Safotu was a settlement for Tongans.
• Olaf Frederick Nelson another exiled leader of the Mau movement in the 1920s, was born in Safune.
• The Pulemelei Mound in Palauli is the largest and most ancient structure in Polynesia.

World War II

During World War II, Savai'i came under the Allies 'Samoa Defense Group' which included Upolu, Tutuila and Wallis Island and later extended in 1944 to cover bases in other islands such as Bora Bora and the Cook Islands. A military governor of the Samoa Defense Group was Brigadier General Henry L. Larsen who had secret orders mandating a defensive position of the islands from east to west. The code name for the entire group of islands was 'Straw' and the code name for Savai'i was 'Strawman.' The code for Upolu was 'Strawhat,' Tutuila 'Strawstack' while Wallis Island was 'Strawboard.' A small base was set up on the central north coast village of Fagamalo, which had a wharf and achorage. Fagamalo was the main village for the colonial administration at the time on Savai'i, situated where the small post office is today.

In its present unprotected state, Western Samoa is a hazard of first magnitude for the defense of American Samoa. The conclusion is inescapable that if we don't occupy it the Japanese will and there may not be a great deal of time left.

8 February, 1943 Report on Western Samoa defence by 2nd Marine Brigade's intelligence officer, Lieutenant Colonel William L. Bales.

On 18 May, 1942 the 3rd Marine Brigade with 4,853 officers and men were on Upolu and Savai'i under the command of Brigadier General Charles D. Barrett.

1839 Wilkes Expedition

Charles Wilkes

In October 1839, Savai'i and the Samoa Islands were surveyed by the famous United States Exploring Expedition led by Charles Wilkes. The survey of Savai'i was performed by Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold aboard the U.S. Brig Porpoise. Wilkes and other ships in the expedition were surveying Upolu and Tutuila at the same time. The Porpoise first touched down at the village of Sapapali'i. Some of the team, Dr Pickering and Lieutenant Maury were dropped off while the brig surveyed the island's coastline and tides. Dr Pickering and the lieutenant were hosted by the resident missionary at Sapapali'i, the Reverend Mr. Hardie. The Porpoise examined the bay of Palauli where there was a missionary station under the supervision of a Mr M'Donald. Wilkes' report also described Saleaula, Asau village at the west end of the island, and 'the beautiful village of Falealupo' which was under the charge of a Tongan missionary. At the 'north point' of the island, the brig found 'good anchorage' in the bay of Matautu (where the village of Fagamalo is situated). The brig was anchored and the harbour surveyed. Wilkes' wrote that this was the habour on the island where a vessel could anchor in safety. In these villages (Matautu enclave), the explorers noticed a difference with other parts of Savaii.

A great difference in form, physiognomy and manners...was observed here, as well as a change in the character of many articles of manufacture. The warclubs and spears were of uncommon form, and neatly made.

On the 24th of October, Wilkes writes, that the Porpoise arrived back at Sapapali'i village, having been gone nine days. The team met paramount chief Malietoa and his son at the village. With local guides Dr Pickering had travelled some way into the interior of the island, and had reached one side of a volcanic crater, about one thousand feet above the sea and some seven miles inland.

One the 10th November, 1839, the Wilkes Expedition weighed anchor at Apia and sailed westward, and on the 11th of November, had lost sight of Savaii.

See also

• Archaeology in Samoa for archaeology on Savai'i
• Architecture of Samoa
• Districts of Samoa (political districts)
• Culture of Samoa
• Samoan language
• Maota (Japanese language)

External links

• "Savai'i". Global Volcanism Program. Smithsonian Institution.

• Official Samoa Visitors Bureau website
• Sydney Morning Herald travel article June 2009
• Surfing Samoa on Youtube
• The Samoan Historical Calendar 1606 - 2007 by Stan Sorensen, Historian, Office of the Governor, American Samoa & Joseph Theroux