Pittenweem

Pittenweem from the outer harbour wall.

Pittenweem is a village in Fife on the east coast of Scotland. The name derives from Pictish and Scottish Gaelic. "Pit-" represents Pictish pett 'place, portion of land', and "-enweem" is Gaelic na h-Uaimh, 'of the Cave' in Gaelic, so "The place of the cave". The name is rendered Baile na h-Uaimh in modern Gaelic, with baile, 'town, settlement', substituted for the Pictish prefix.

The cave in question is St Fillan's cave (see below), although there are many indentations along the rocky shore. The village has a population of around 1 500 people.

History

Pittenweem is a Royal Burgh, being awarded the status by King James V (1513-42) in 1541. Founded as a fishing village around a probably early Christian religious settlement, it grew along the shoreline from the west where the sheltered beaches provided safe places for fishermen to draw their boats up out of the water. In due course a breakwater was built extending out from one of the rocky skerries that jut out south-west into the Firth of Forth like fingers. This provided an ability to keep boats afloat rather than being beached, which allowed for larger boats. A new breakwater further to the east has been developed over the years into a deep, safe, harbour with a covered fish market. As the herring disappeared from local waters and the fishing fleet shrank, this harbour and attendant facilities led Pittenweem to become the main harbour for the fishermen of the East Neuk of Fife.

The white houses with red roofs shown in the above picture "Pittenweem from the outer harbour wall" illustrate the classic East Neuk building style, influenced by trade with the Low Countries (Belgium and the Netherlands). The East Neuk offered natural trading ports for Dutch and Belgian captains as they sailed up past the East coast of England. These ships brought red pan-tiles as ballast and the locals soon found them to be excellent roofing material. It is just possible to make out the "crow step gable", where the gable ends rise in steps rather than the more normal smooth angled line - an architectural feature imported from the Low Countries. These and other vernacular features are common throughout the small town, which has one of Scotland's best-preserved and most attractive townscapes, with many historic buildings (some restored by the National Trust for Scotland). The 'organic' layout of the town centre, which grew up piece-meal over several centuries, with numerous winding streets and alleys, is one of its particular charms. Few Scottish towns have so well preserved their ancient character.

At the shore end of the outer harbour wall, some of the paving stones have numbers engraved in them. The numbers are now randomly scattered, but once were vital to the smooth operation of the fish market. Before the pier was re-surfaced, the stones were placed in numerical order at the quayside running outwards from the shore. The first fishing boat to return with its catch placed its haul alongside stone number one, the second boat at stone two and so on. When the market opened, the fish was sold in strict order of landing. If you ever visit the pier, try to find the stones in order.

Industry

Primary industries are fishing, farming, tourism and, recently, art.

Geology / Geography

The village sits astride a raised beach, with the lower part of the village housing the harbour and the older houses, with the upper part having the main shopping area, churches, school and more recent housing.

Education

Pittenweem Primary School is a traditional village school with its own playing fields on the northern side of the older part of the village. It caters for children aged 4/5 to 11/12. Secondary education (up to ages 16, 17 or 18 depending on educational ambitions) is provided at Waid Academy in the neighbouring town of Anstruther.

Religion

In the Middle Ages Pittenweem Priory was a small Augustinian house linked to that on the Isle of May, built over the ancient sacred cave associated with St Fillan (fl. 8th century?). The Cave, recently fitted out as a chapel, is situated in Cove Wynd (leading from the High Street down to the harbour) and is open to the public (key available locally). From this rough dwelling St Fillan is said to have converted the local Pictish population. The Cave was re-discovered around 1900 when a horse ploughing in the Priory garden fell down a hole into it. The Cave has flat rocks that are presumed to be 'beds' and a small spring of "holy water" at the rear.

The present Church of Scotland parish kirk is on the site of the Priory church. Much of the fortified east gatehouse of the priory survives (15th century), as does the 'Great House', one of Scotland's best-preserved late medieval houses, which may have served as accommodation for the Prior and monks.

As befits a village steeped in the dangerous practice of fishing and the uncertain practice of farming, there are many churches in the village. Current denominations with churches include: Church of Scotland, Roman Catholic, Episcopalian and Baptist. Other denominations have had churches or the equivalent, but these have been converted to other purposes. The "Church of Scotland" Church Hall, for example, was once the "Free Church of Scotland" kirk.

Culture

In the late 1960s the fishermen of the area celebrated the re-opening of the re-designed harbour with a Gala Day, where the boats were dressed overall and people could have short trips on the boats. By the early 1980s, however, increasing regulation, higher fuel costs and a shrinking fleet were bringing this event to its knees. In its place sprang up an Arts Festival, which initially incorporated the Gala Day as its finale. The Arts Festival has moved on somewhat, however, becoming one of the best respected in Scotland. Many artists have rediscovered the charms and the light of the area, which was always popular with itinerant and hobby artists, and have moved to the village, creating a vibrant artistic community.

The village is also home to a number of members of the Fence Collective.

Politics

The local (representing Fife North East) Member of the UK Parliament is Sir Menzies Campbell CBE QC MP, leader of the Liberal Democrats.

The local (representing Fife North East) Member of the Scottish Parliament is Iain Smith of the Liberal Democrats.

The local (representing Elie, St Monans and Pittenweem) Fife Councillor is Mike Scott-Hayward of the Conservatives.

Famous Pittenweemers

• John Douglas
• Ian Stewart

External links=

• Pittenweems local webpages
• Map sources for Pittenweem
• Pittenweem Arts Festival
• Pittenweem on FifeDirect
• Mike Scott-Hayward

Gallery

• West Shore, Pittenweem from the West Braes showing skerries in the foreground, the old harbour in the mid-ground and the new harbour in the background. The May Island is on the horizon.
  West Shore, Pittenweem from the West Braes showing skerries in the foreground, the old harbour in the mid-ground and the new harbour in the background. The May Island is on the horizon.
• West Shore, Pittenweem from the West Braes.
  West Shore, Pittenweem from the West Braes.
• Pittenweem swimming pool looking towards St Monans with the Lady's Tower, Elie in the distance.
  Pittenweem swimming pool looking towards St Monans with the Lady's Tower, Elie in the distance.