Pittenweem
Pittenweem is a village in Fife on the east coast of Scotland. The name derives from Pictish and Scottish Gaelic. "Pit-" represents Pictish pett 'place, portion of land', and "-enweem" is Gaelic na h-Uaimh, 'of the Cave' in Gaelic, so "The place of the cave". The name is rendered Baile na h-Uaimh in modern Gaelic, with baile, 'town, settlement', substituted for the Pictish prefix.
The cave in question is St Fillan's cave (see below), although there are many indentations along the rocky shore. The village has a population of around 1,500 people.
History
Until 1975 Pittenweem was a royal burgh, being awarded the status by King James V (1513-42) in 1541. Founded as a fishing village around a probably early Christian religious settlement, it grew along the shoreline from the west where the sheltered beaches provided safe places for fishermen to draw their boats up out of the water. In due course a breakwater was built extending out from one of the rocky skerries that jut out south-west into the Firth of Forth like fingers. This provided an ability to keep boats afloat rather than being beached, which allowed for larger boats. A new breakwater further to the east has been developed over the years into a deep, safe, harbour with a covered fish market. As the herring disappeared from local waters and the fishing fleet shrank, this harbour and attendant facilities led Pittenweem to become the main harbour for the fishermen of the East Neuk of Fife.
The white houses with red roofs shown in the above picture "Pittenweem from the outer harbour wall" illustrate the classic East Neuk building style, influenced by trade with the Low Countries (Belgium and the Netherlands). The East Neuk offered natural trading ports for Dutch and Belgian captains as they sailed up past the East coast of England. These ships brought red pan-tiles as ballast and the locals soon found them to be excellent roofing material. It is just possible to make out the "crow step gable", where the gable ends rise in steps rather than the more normal smooth angled line - an architectural feature imported from the Low Countries. These and other vernacular features are common throughout the small town, which has one of Scotland's best-preserved and most attractive townscapes, with many historic buildings (some restored by the National Trust for Scotland). The 'organic' layout of the town centre, which grew up piece-meal over several centuries, with numerous winding streets and alleys, is one of its particular charms. Few Scottish towns have so well preserved their ancient character.
At the shore end of the outer harbour wall, some of the paving stones have numbers engraved in them. The numbers are now randomly scattered, but once were vital to the smooth operation of the fish market. Before the pier was re-surfaced, the stones were placed in numerical order at the quayside running outwards from the shore. The first fishing boat to return with its catch placed its haul alongside stone number one, the second boat at stone two and so on. When the market opened, the fish was sold in strict order of landing. If you ever visit the pier, try to find the stones in order.
In 1779 the "Pirate" John Paul Jones (otherwise known as the founder of the American Navy) anchored half-a-mile off Pittenweem in the USS Bonhomme Richard. Despite bombarding Anstruther, Jones did not attack Pittenweem, but did make off with the towm's Pilot who had sailed out to meet Jones' squadron.
Industry
Primary industries are fishing, farming, tourism and, recently, art.
In former times, Pittenweem had two coal mines, one inland at Easter Grangemuir, the other at Pathhead, on the coast between Pittenweem and St Monans. A spin-off from the Pathhead mine was salt production. Receptacles below the tideline collected water that could be pumped up to salt-pans, the pans then being heated by coal fires fed from the mine to extract the salt. Evidence of the ash produced can still be seen on the coast.
Geology / Geography
The village sits astride a raised beach, with the lower part of the village housing the harbour and the older houses, with the upper part having the main shopping area, churches, school and more recent housing.
Education
Pittenweem Primary School is a traditional village school with its own playing fields on the northern side of the older part of the village. It caters for children aged 4/5 to 11/12. Secondary education (up to ages 16, 17 or 18 depending on educational ambitions) is provided at Waid Academy in the neighbouring town of Anstruther.
Religion
In the Middle Ages Pittenweem Priory was a small Augustinian house linked to that on the Isle of May, built over the ancient sacred cave associated with St Fillan (fl. 8th century?). The Cave, recently fitted out as a chapel, is situated in Cove Wynd (leading from the High Street down to the harbour) and is open to the public (key available locally). From this rough dwelling St Fillan is said to have converted the local Pictish population. The Cave was re-discovered around 1900 when a horse ploughing in the Priory garden fell down a hole into it. The Cave has flat rocks that are presumed to be 'beds' and a small spring of "holy water" at the rear. St Fillans cave was also used as prison for witches during the witch hunts of the 17-18 centuries (see below).
St Adrian (born in Pannonia in Modern Hungary) retired to the Monastery in Pittenweem but was killed along with his fellows in a Danish "viking" raid in 872AD, apparently shortly after his arrival. The raid may, in fact, have been made on the settlement on the Isle of May, rather than Pittenweem itself. St Adrian was adopted as Pittenweem's Patron Saint and an image of him being rowed ashore from the Isle of May is represented on the Burgh coat-of-arms and seal (see image above). A shrine was dedicated to St Adrian on the Isle of May. It is said that St Adrian's men undertook the first harbour improvements, laying the foundation for the fishing industry, but no evidence for this currently exists.
The present Church of Scotland parish kirk is on the site of the Priory church. Much of the fortified east gatehouse of the priory survives (15th century), as does the 'Great House', one of Scotland's best-preserved late medieval houses, which may have served as accommodation for the Prior and monks.
As befits a village steeped in the dangerous and uncertain practices of fishing and farming, there are many churches in the village. Current denominations with churches include: Church of Scotland, Roman Catholic, Episcopalian and Baptist. Other denominations have had churches or the equivalent, but these have been converted to other purposes. The "Church of Scotland" Church Hall, for example, was once the "Free Church of Scotland" kirk.
The late 17th to early 18th centuries saw a number of notorious witch hunts by the local minster. The town at this time had become bogged down in debt and this was used as an excuse to seize the assets of some local women in order to alleviate money problems. The Church of scotland building at the top of the High Street was used as the jail for the poor females and the door to the cells can still be seen. It is the studded door at the bottom of the tower.
Culture
In the late 1960s the fishermen of the area celebrated the re-opening of the re-designed harbour with a Gala Day, where the boats were dressed overall and people could have short trips on the boats. By the early 1980s, however, increasing regulation, higher fuel costs and a shrinking fleet were bringing this event to its knees. In its place sprang up an Arts Festival, which initially incorporated the Gala Day as its finale. The Arts Festival has moved on somewhat, however, becoming one of the best respected in Scotland. Many artists have rediscovered the charms and the light of the area, which was always popular with itinerant and hobby artists, and have moved to the village, creating a vibrant artistic community.
The village is also home to a number of members of the Fence Collective.
Pittenweem had the first newspaper in the area - the Pittenweem Register (1844-1852?). It caused a great stir in the town when the London dailies contained extracts from the Register's eighth edition!
Politics
The local (representing Fife North East) Member of the UK Parliament is Sir Menzies Campbell CBE QC MP, leader of the Liberal Democrats.
The local (representing Fife North East) Member of the Scottish Parliament is Iain Smith of the Liberal Democrats.
The local (representing Elie, St Monans and Pittenweem) Fife Councillor is Mike Scott-Hayward of the Conservatives.
From 1885 - 1983, Pittenweem was part of the East Fife Parliamentary Constituency, its most famous MP being Prime Minister Herbert Henry Asquith (Liberal) from 1886 - 1918.
Sport
At one time, Pittenweem had a 5-hole golf course!
Football - The local team is Pittenweem Rovers AFC
Rugby - The local team is Waid Academy FP RFC
Famous Pittenweemers
- John Douglas
- John Smith (Clockmaker)
- Ian Stewart
- Frederick Stewart, Lord Pittenweem
External links
Gallery
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West Shore, Pittenweem from the West Braes showing skerries in the foreground, the old harbour in the mid-ground and the new harbour in the background. The Isle of May (or May Island) is on the horizon.
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West Shore, Pittenweem from the West Braes.
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Pittenweem swimming pool looking towards St Monans with the Lady's Tower, Elie in the distance.
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