Roseberry Topping
| Roseberry Topping | |
|---|---|
 Roseberry Topping as seen from the north | |
| Highest point | |
| Elevation | 320 m (1,050 ft) |
| Prominence | 81 m (266 ft) |
| Geography | |
| Location | North York Moors, England |
| OS grid | NZ579126 |
| Topo map | OS Landranger 193 |
Roseberry Topping is a distinctive hill on the border between North Yorkshire and the borough of Redcar and Cleveland, England, of which it has long been a symbol. It is situated near Great Ayton and Newton under Roseberry. Its summit has a distinctive half-cone shape with a jagged cliff, which has led to many comparisons with the much higher Matterhorn in Switzerland.[1]
At 1,049 feet (320 m), Roseberry Topping was traditionally thought to be the highest hill on the North York Moors;[2] however, the nearby Urra Moor is higher, at 1,490 feet (450 m).
Geology
The hill is an outlier of the North York Moors uplands. It is formed from sandstone laid down in the Middle and Lower Jurassic periods, between 208 and 165 million years ago, which constitutes the youngest sandstone to be found in any of the National Parks in England and Wales. Its distinctive conical shape is the result of the hill's hard sandstone cap protecting the underlying shales and clays from erosion by the effects of ice, wind and rain.
Until 1914, the summit resembled a sugarloaf until a geological fault and possibly nearby alum and ironstone mining caused its collapse.[1] The area immediately below the summit is still extensively pitted and scarred from the former mineworks. The summit has magnificent views across the Cleveland plain as far as the Pennines on a clear day, some 40 to 50 miles (60 to 80 km) away.
History
The Roseberry area has been inhabited for thousands of years and the hill has long attracted attention for its distinctive shape. A Bronze Age hoard was discovered on the slopes of the hill and is now in the Sheffield City Museum. It was occupied during the Iron Age; walled enclosures and the remains of huts dating from the period are still visible in the hill's vicinity.
The hill was held in special regard by the Vikings who settled in Cleveland in large numbers during the early medieval period and gave the area many of its place names. They gave Roseberry Topping its present name, which is one of only a handful of known pagan names in England. "Roseberry" came from Old Norse Óðins bjarg ("Odin's rock or crag"), after the Norse god Odin.[3] The name changed successively to Othensberg, Ohenseberg, Ounsberry and Ouesberry before finally settling on Roseberry. "Topping" is a corruption of toppen, an Old Norse word for a hill.[4] The naming of the hill followed a well-established pattern in continental Europe of hills and mountains being named after Odin or the Germanic equivalent, Wodan. Ælfric of Eynsham, writing in the 10th century, recorded how "the heathens made him into a celebrated god and made offerings to him at crossroads and brought oblations to high hills for him. This god was honoured among all heathens and he is called ... Oðon in Danish."[5]
In 1736, the explorer James Cook's family moved to Airey Holme Farm at nearby Great Ayton. When he had time off from working on the farm with his father, young James would take himself off up Roseberry Topping, which gave him his first taste for adventure and exploration, which was to stay with him for life.
Roseberry Topping can be seen from many miles away and was long used by sailors and farmers as an indicator of impending bad weather. An old rhyme commemorates this usage:
- When Roseberry Topping wears a cap, let Cleveland then beware of a clap![6]
The hill was private property for many years, formerly being part of a game estate. An old shooting box can still be seen on its southern flank. Roseberry Topping is now managed by the National Trust and is open to the public. It is just within the North York Moors National Park whose border runs along the A173 road below it.
A spur of the Cleveland Way National Trail runs up to the summit. The path has been a popular sight-seeing excursion for centuries due to the spectacular views of the Cleveland area from the summit; as early as 1700, travellers were recommended to visit the peak to see "the most delightful prospect upon the valleys below to the hills above."[7]
The site was notified as a geological Site of Special Scientific Interest in 1954, with a boundary extension in 1986 bringing the designated area to 10.86 hectares. The site is listed as being of national importance in the Geological Conservation Review.[8]
In popular culture
A reference to Roseberry Topping was featured in the folk-rock group America's "Hat Trick" from the Hat Trick album. The exact lyric stanza is:
Newton-Under-Roseberry-Topping
And it's cold and it's wet
And you feel like you're part of all time
References
- ^ a b Howard Peach, Curious Tales of Old North Yorkshire, p. 39 (Sigma Leisure, 2004)
- ^ See e.g. J.J. Sheahan and T. Whellan, History and Topography of the City of York; the Ainsty Wapentake; and the East Riding of Yorkshire, p. 10. 1855.
- ^ Peter Godfrey Foote, Hans Bekker-Nielsen, Olaf Olsen. Proceedings of the Eighth Viking Congress: Århus 24–31 August 1977, p. 135. Odense University Press, 1981. ISBN 8774923390
- ^ John Gascoigne. Captain Cook: Voyager Between Worlds, p. 8. Hambledon Continuum, 2007. ISBN 1847250025
- ^ Ken Dowden, European Paganism: The Realities of Cult from Antiquity to the Middle Ages, p. 80. Routledge, 2000. ISBN 0415120349
- ^ G F Northall, English Folk Rhymes 1892, p. 91
- ^ Brome's Travels, vol. 8. London, 1700
- ^ "SSSI citation sheet for Roseberry Topping" (PDF). English Nature. Retrieved 2007-02-15.
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