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Margo Hayes

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Margo Hayes
2019 Sport & Speed Open Nationals
Personal information
NationalityAmerican
Born (1998-02-11) February 11, 1998 (age 26)[1]
Boulder, Colorado, U.S.
OccupationProfessional rock climber
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
Known for
  • First-ever female to climb at 9a+ (5.15a)
  • First-ever female to complete the "9a+ Trilogy"
Medal record
World Youth Championships
Silver medal – second place 2015 Lead
Silver medal – second place 2015 Bouldering
Gold medal – first place 2016 Lead
Gold medal – first place 2016 Boudering
Gold medal – first place 2016 Combined
Bronze medal – third place 2017 Combined
Updated on June 29, 2022

Margo Hayes (born February 11, 1998)[1] is an American professional rock climber from Boulder, Colorado. In 2016, she won both the competition bouldering and the competition lead climbing events at the IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships in Guangzhou (China). In 2017, she became the first woman in history to climb a 9a+ (5.15a) graded route, and in 2019, became the first woman to complete the "9a+ Trilogy".

Early life

Originally a gymnast who trained at CATS Gymnastics in Boulder,[2] Hayes began climbing at age 10.[3] She joined Team ABC, a renowned youth climbing program in Boulder, where she was coached by Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou.[2] Hayes' grandfather, Dr. James Morrissey, led the first successful climb of the Kangshung Face on Mt. Everest and her father spent time climbing in Yosemite Valley.[2]

Climbing career

Competition climbing

As part of the US National Team, Hayes has competed in all three disciplines (lead climbing, speed climbing, and bouldering) of the International Federation of Sport Climbing competitions. In 2015, at the IFSC World Youth Championships in Arco, Italy Hayes won silver both in bouldering and lead, behind Janja Garnbret.[4]

In 2016, at the IFSC World Youth Championships in Guangzhou (China), she competed in the Juniors category, winning both the bouldering and lead events, placing 15th in speed, and placing first in the overall standings.[5]

Hayes was one of four women to earn a spot on the 2019 U.S. Overall National Team as a first step to qualifying for the 2020 Olympics climbing competition.[6]

Sport climbing

In 2016, Hayes won a Golden Piton Award [fr] in the Sport Climbing category from Climbing Magazine for successfully climbing 14 routes graded 5.14.[7]

On February 26, 2017, Hayes became the first-ever woman in history to climb a 9a+ (5.15a) graded route when she ascended La Rambla, in Siurana, Spain).[8] On September 24, 2017, she also completed the third-ever female ascent of a 9a+ (5.15a) when she ascended Realization/Biographie, in Céüse, in France.[9] In March 2019, Hayes completed her third 9a+ (5.15a), climbing Papichulo at Oliana, Spain, and thus completing the trilogy of the "benchmark" and most notable 9a+ (5.15a) graded routes.[10]

Personal life

In 2016 she won a prize in a scholastic art show.[11]

Rankings[12]

  • 2019 - USA Climbing Open Bouldering Championships - Bronze
  • 2018 - IFSC Climbing World Championships Female Boulder - 10th
  • 2017 - IFSC Youth World Championships Female Junior Combined - Bronze
  • 2017 - USA Climbing Sport & Speed Climbing Champions - Silver
  • 2017 - IFSC Pan American Youth Championships Female Junior Boulder - Gold
  • 2017 - IFSC Pan American Youth Championships Female Junior Lead - Silver
  • 2016 - USA Climbing Sport & Speed Climbing Champions - Gold
  • 2016 - IFSC Youth World Championships Female Junior Boulder - Gold
  • 2016 - IFSC Youth World Championships Female Junior Lead - Gold
  • 2015 - USA Climbing Sport & Speed Climbing Champions - Silver
  • 2015 - IFSC Youth World Championships Female Youth A Boulder - Silver
  • 2015 - IFSC Youth World Championships Female Youth A Lead - Silver

Notable ascents

Redpointed routes

9a+ (5.15a):

9a (5.14d):

  • Bad Girls Club – Wicked Cave (Rifle Mountain Park. (USA) – August 2016 – First female ascent.[18]

8c+ (5.14c):

  • The Crew – Rifle Mountain Park (Colorado, (USA) – June 2016.[19]

Filmography

  • Break on Through - 2017 film directed by Matty Hong, documenting Hayes' ascent of La Rambla and Biographie, featured on Reel Rock 12.[2]

See also

References

  1. ^ a b Gates, Zoe (May 17, 2017). "By the Numbers: Margo Hayes and the Road to 5.15". Climbing. On her 18th birthday in February 2016
  2. ^ a b c d Salabert, Shawnte (March 12, 2020). "The Extraordinary Effort of Margo Hayes". Outside Online. Retrieved March 16, 2020.
  3. ^ "Bio". MARGO HAYES. Retrieved June 1, 2017.
  4. ^ "Ashima Shiraishi wins two golds at world climbing championships". San Jose Mercury News. September 5, 2015.
  5. ^ "World Youth Climbing Championships: Bouldering brings second gold for Janja Garnbret, Margo Hayes & Ashima Shiraishi". Planet Mountain. November 14, 2016.
  6. ^ "Meet Team USA". Rock and Ice. Retrieved March 16, 2020.
  7. ^ "2016 Golden Pitons: Sport Climbing". Climbing Magazine | Rock Climbing, Mountaineering, Bouldering, Ice Climbing. Retrieved May 31, 2017.
  8. ^ Haas, Liz (February 27, 2017). "Margo Hayes Climbs La Rambla, Becomes First Woman to Send 5.15a". Climbing.
  9. ^ Rock and Ice (ed.). "Margo Hayes Sends Biographie/Realization (5.15a)". Retrieved July 7, 2019.
  10. ^ a b "Margo Hayes climbs Papichulo at Oliana, her third 9a+". PlanetMountain.com. March 23, 2019. Retrieved January 23, 2022.
  11. ^ "Olympic Hopefuls". Rock and Ice. Retrieved March 16, 2020.
  12. ^ "Athlete Profile: Margo Hayes". IFSC.org. International federation of Sport climbing. Retrieved January 27, 2019.
  13. ^ Rock and Ice (ed.). "Margo Hayes Ticks Another 5.15 with Papichulo!".
  14. ^ Fernandez, Issac (April 4, 2017). "The 9a+ Trilogy, 6 climbers have climbed the 3 most representative routes" [es]. Desnivel (in Spanish). Retrieved July 18, 2023.
  15. ^ Nicolas Mattuzzi (September 25, 2017). "Incroyable! Margo Hayes enchaîne "Biographie" 9a+ et rentre de nouveau dans l'Histoire!". planetgrimpe.com.
  16. ^ Margo Hayes Sends La Rambla (5.15a)! on rockandice.com
  17. ^ Historique! Margo Hayes, 18 ans, enchaîne « La Rambla », 9a+! on planetgrimpe.com
  18. ^ Margo Hayes, 18, Breaks the “Boys Club” of Bad Girls Club (5.14d) Archived 2017-03-01 at the Wayback Machine on rockandice.com
  19. ^ Margo Hayes, 18, Sends The Crew (5.14c) in Rifle on rockandice.com
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