Sfoglina
Sfoglina, Sfoglino is someone who makes sfoglia, a form of Italian fresh pasta resembling a sheet made only with flour and eggs.[1] A sfoglina is historically seen as a middle-aged woman who rolls and stretches out the dough with a rolling pin called a mattarello, on a large wooden pastry board called a taglieri. Their typical handmade creations are tagliatelle, tortellini and other egg-pasta, also many times stuffed pasta like tortelloni or cappeletti.[2] These are usually served with mortadella in Bologna and often with ragu sauce.
Definition
[edit]The Sfoglina tradition comes from the Emilia-Romagna region, where sfoglina is also called “azdora” or “zdoura” in both Emilian and Bolognese dialects. Bologna is the city where this figure and the art of sfoglia (pastry) was born. Its housewives used to say, “You will know when you did a good sfoglia because if you lift it in the direction of light, you will be able to see the Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca”.[3]
Sfoglina is centuries old and was present in every Emilian family. The tradition of home-made fresh pasta is still very widespread. Sfoglinas also work in restaurants and trattorias, although less often. Nevertheless, she still represents the cookery art of Emilia-Romagna, as made by its artisans.[3]
Practices
[edit]Fresh pasta is usually produced by sfoglinas in a small laboratory that is simply furnished. While they are working, they usually wear a white uniform with an apron and listen to Italian songs.[4]
The sense of community is strong in the laboratories. They create an environment redolent of Italian domestic culture. These conditions are important in order to guarantee the authenticity of the product.[4] Sfoglina is associated with festivities and Sunday celebrations where women together prepare the meal for the family. This convention can be seen at the amateur level as well from the name of the fresh pasta competitions, the most famous is “Miss Tagliatella”.[4]
Professionalization
[edit]The practice of sfoglina is not regulated, either nationally or regionally. Supporters of professionalization claim that the lack of regulation stems from the fact that it is considered a typically female job and as such does not qualify.[5]
The idea of professionalisation dates from 2004 when Franco Grillini, a Parliamentarian from Emilia-Romagna, submitted a two-part bill, one involving the creation of a committee for the protection of the Emilia-Romagnan sfoglia and another to regulate the profession of “sfoglina” and “sfoglino”.[6]
Moreover, to Grillini it was important to free sfoglia from its traditional stereotypes: opening the profession to men. Therefore, according to Grillini's vision, such a law should have enhanced the dignity and prestige of the “sfoglinas” craft. The proposal was ultimately dismissed.[7]
Another attempt at regulation was made in 2017 by then democratic senator Sergio Lo Giudice. He proposed training courses and the accreditation of sfoglinas and sfoglinos at a regional level. Lo Giudice's bill was also rejected.[8]
Promotion
[edit]Cultural intermediaries and producers have allied to promote consumption of local, traditional and sustainable produce.[9] Initiatives to promote sfoglinas’ work, the inauguration of VSB (acronym of “Vecchia Scuola Bolognese”)[10] represents an attempt to restore dignity and visibility to the craft. VSB is a space in Bologna, dedicated to food culture. It is considered the house of sfoglinas, under the guide of sfoglina Alessandra Spinsi. The school offers many courses for beginners and professionals to learn traditional cooking.[9]
The school features the activities of its graduates, referrered to as "sfoglini", in 17 countries on its website.[11]
In United States Washington, DC there is a restaurant, Sfoglina Pasta, by Fabio Trabocchi which is Bib Gourmand.[12] This restaurant Sfloglina has goat cheese ravioli di Marche not only pasta from Emilia-Romagna.[13] It is named Sfloglina for the matriarchs who traditionally hand-made fresh pasta.[12]
See also
[edit]References
[edit]- ^ Monica (24 September 2020). "Basic recipe for Bolognese fresh egg pasta dough". Tortellini&CO. Retrieved 17 October 2024.
- ^ "La sfoglina - dall'Azdora ai giorni nostri". La pasta di Bologna (in Italian). 23 November 2017. Retrieved 2 March 2020.
- ^ a b "Le sfogline". www.sfogline.it. Retrieved 2 March 2020.
- ^ a b c Arfini, Elisa A.G. (August 2019). "The making of authentic tortellini: Aestheticization of artisanal labor and elite univorism in the case of local food". European Journal of Cultural Studies. 22 (4): 433–451. doi:10.1177/1367549419861637. hdl:2434/773000. ISSN 1367-5494. S2CID 201392829.
- ^ "Le sfogline "fuorilegge" fanno scuola: anzi, start up". Il Sole 24 ORE (in Italian). Retrieved 2 March 2020.
- ^ "PROPOSTA DI LEGGE". camera.it. Retrieved 2 March 2020.
- ^ "L'antico mestiere della "sfoglina" Una proposta di legge per tutelarlo". Italia a Tavola (in Italian). Retrieved 2 March 2020.
- ^ "La legge della sfoglina in parlamento" (in Italian). Corriere di Bologna. 5 December 2017. Archived from the original on 25 March 2023. Retrieved 20 June 2023 – via PressReader.
- ^ a b Sassatelli, Roberta (2007). Consumer culture: History, Theory and Politics. London: SAGE Publications. ISBN 978-1-4129-1181-8.
- ^ "VSB Bologna | Scuola di Sfoglia Cucina Tradizionale Bolognese | Spisni Alessandra". VSB Bologna | Scuola di Sfoglia Cucina Tradizionale Bolognese | Spisni Alessandra (in Italian). Retrieved 10 March 2020.
- ^ "Sfoglini in the world". VSB Bologna | School of Sfoglia Bolognese Traditional Cuisine | Spisni Alessandra. 4 July 2024. Retrieved 17 October 2024.
- ^ a b "Sfoglina – Washington - a MICHELIN Guide Restaurant". MICHELIN Guide. Retrieved 16 October 2024.
- ^ "Sfoglina Opening in Rosslyn This Weekend | ARLnow.com". www.arlnow.com. 2 October 2019. Retrieved 16 October 2024.
External links
[edit]The Standard: Pasta A-Z https://a.co/d/b1a3cYC