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Bobbin lace

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Bobbin lace in progress at the Musée des Ursulines de Québec

Bobbin lace is a lace textile made by braiding and twisting lengths of thread, which are wound on bobbins to manage them. As the work progresses, the weaving is held in place with pins set in a lace pillow, the placement of the pins usually determined by a pattern or pricking pinned on the pillow.

Bobbin lace is also known as pillow lace, because it was worked on a pillow, and bone lace, because early bobbins were made of bone[1] or ivory.

Bobbin lace is one of the two major categories of handmade laces, the other being needlelace, derived from earlier cutwork and reticella.[2]

Origin

Early bobbin lace in gold and silver thread, c. 1570.

A will of 1493 by the Milanese Sforza family mentions lace created with twelve bobbins.[3]

Bobbin lace evolved from passementerie or braid-making in 16th-century Italy.[2] Genoa was famous for its braids, hence it is not surprising to find bobbin lace developed in the city. It traveled along with the Spanish troops through Europe.[4] Coarse passements of gold and silver-wrapped threads or colored silks gradually became finer, and later bleached linen yarn was used to make both braids and edgings.[5]

The making of bobbin lace was easier to learn than the elaborate cutwork of the 16th century, and the tools and materials for making linen bobbin lace were inexpensive. There was a ready market for bobbin lace of all qualities, and women throughout Europe soon took up the craft which earned a better income than spinning, sewing, weaving or other home-based textile arts. Bobbin lace-making was established in charity schools, almshouses, and convents.[2]

In the 17th century, the textile centers of Flanders and Normandy eclipsed Italy as the premiere sources for fine bobbin lace, but until the coming of mechanization hand-lacemaking continued to be practiced throughout Europe, suffering only in those periods of simplicity when lace itself fell out of fashion.[2]

Structure

Bobbin lace may be made with coarse or fine threads. Traditionally it was made with linen, silk, wool, or, later, cotton threads, or with precious metals. Today it is made with a variety of natural and synthetic fibers and with wire and other filaments.

Elements of bobbin lace may include toile or toilé (clothwork), réseau (the net-like ground of continuous lace), fillings of part laces, tapes, gimp, picots, tallies, ribs and rolls. Not all styles of bobbin lace include all these elements.

  • The close up of the back shows the fillings are sewn onto the ribs and tied off
    The close up of the back shows the fillings are sewn onto the ribs and tied off
  • A single plait can choose a clever path to construct a filling with sewings but without tying off
    A single plait can choose a clever path to construct a filling with sewings but without tying off
  • mesh (or ground) with a solitary gimp
    mesh (or ground) with a solitary gimp
  • Picots. Top: double threaded, bottom single threaded.
    Picots. Top: double threaded, bottom single threaded.
  • Raised work, a rib on top of the left section, a roll on top of the right section
    Raised work, a rib on top of the left section, a roll on top of the right section
  • Rectangular tallies
    Rectangular tallies
  • Another common shape of tallies arranged as flower petals
    Another common shape of tallies arranged as flower petals
  • Mesh ground motif; toilé with a gimp, corner of half stitch, petals of cloth stitch
    Mesh ground motif; toilé with a gimp, corner of half stitch, petals of cloth stitch
  • part lace motifs, before being assembled
    part lace motifs, before being assembled
  • completed part lace
    completed part lace
  • A Tape (or braid) with footside on the left and a headside on the right
    A Tape (or braid) with footside on the left and a headside on the right
  • top headside bottom footside
    top headside bottom footside

Traditional types

Many styles of lace were made in the heyday of lacemaking (approximately the 16th–18th centuries) before machine-made lace became available.

Contemporary laces

Contemporary handmade woollen bobbin lace articles, Wool Expo, Armidale NSW. Pale green lace is made of 2 ply wool.

The advent of machine-made lace at first pushed lace-makers into more complicated designs beyond the capabilities of early machines, then simpler designs so they could compete on price, and finally pushed them out of business almost entirely.

The resurgence of lace-making is a recent phenomenon and is mostly done as a hobby. Lacemaking groups still meet in regions as varied as Devonshire, England and Orange County, California.[7] In the European towns where lace was once a major industry, especially in Belgium, England, Spain (Camariñas and Almagro), northern and centre Portugal, France and Slovenia lacemakers still demonstrate the craft and sell their wares, though their customer base has shifted from the wealthy nobility to the curious tourist.

Still new types of lace are being developed such as the 3D Rosalibre[8] and a colored version of Milanese lace by borrowing rolls from Duchesse lace to store various shades and colors.[9] Other artists are giving grounds a major role by distorting and varying stitches, pin distances and thread sizes or colours. The variations are explored by experimentation[10][11][12] and mathematics and algorithms.[13] The lace maintaining its shape without stiffening is no longer a requirement.[10] Inspiring journals, guilds and foundations show that old techniques with a new twist can challenge young people to create works that can definitely classify as art.[14] A Dutch design graduate in 2006 discovered bobbin lace was a technique to make a fancy fence. The first fences became museum pieces. The fences are now produced in Bangalore by concrete rebar plaiters.[15]

Tools

prickings for various types of lace and a very fine hook
Bobbin lace maker presents bobbin lace made in Myjava (Slovakia)

The major tools to make bobbin lace are a pillow, bobbins, pins and prickings. The part laces also require a crochet hook, very fine types of lace require very fine hooks. There are different types of pillows and bobbins linked to areas, eras and type of lace.

Types of bobbins

  • Cat tails, the points are convenient for sewing
    Cat tails, the points are convenient for sewing
  • Danish bobbins
    Danish bobbins
  • Spangled bobbins
    Spangled bobbins
  • Hooded bobbins
    Hooded bobbins
  • Large bulbs to throw every now and then, Cogne
    Large bulbs to throw every now and then, Cogne
  • winding schemes with a single hitch
    winding schemes with a single hitch

Types of pillow

The pillows must be firm, or otherwise the pins will wobble. The pillows were traditionally stuffed with straw, but nowadays polystyrene (styrofoam) is generally used.[16]

An early type of pillow can be seen in The Lace-Maker by Caspar Netscher. The pillow has a wooden frame, and is slightly sloping. The lace-maker rests it on her lap.

The bolster or cylindrical pillow was much cheaper to make as it is just a fabric bag stuffed with straw. It was used in Bedfordshire lace. It needs a stand as it does not have a flat bottom.[17] Usually the bolster had the pattern pinned round the cylinder, so by turning the pillow, the lace could be as long as was needed. However, Maltese lacemakers used the pillow the other way. They had a long thin pillow, which they rested against something. Then they worked the lace down the length of the pillow.[18]

This problem (of the lace needing to be longer than the pillow) is solved in a different way by the roller pillow, which has a small roller, for working the lace, set into a larger area, where the bobbins are laid. This means that the pattern can be pinned round the roller, but the pillow has a flat bottom.

The cheapest modern pillow is domed and made of polystyrene (styrofoam). It is often called a cookie pillow, because of its shape. Another modern pillow is a block pillow, with a frame which holds covered polystyrene blocks. The blocks can be moved around as the lace progresses, to keep the lace being worked on at the centre of the pillow.

References

  1. ^ Oxford English Dictionary definition of "bone lace"
  2. ^ a b c d Santina M. Levey (2003). "Lace in the Early Modern Period c. 1500-1780". In D.T. Jenkins (ed.). Cambridge History of Western Textiles. Cambridge University Press. pp. 585–580.
  3. ^ Verhaegen, Pierre (1912). La Dentelle Belge. Brussel: L. Lebègue. p. 10.
  4. ^ Reigate, Emily (1986). An Illustrated Guide to Lace (1988 ed.). Antique Collers' Club Ltd. p. 44. ISBN 1-85149-003-5.
  5. ^ Janine Montupet, Ghislaine Schoeller (1988). Fabuleuses dentelles. Robert Laffont. pp. 16–18. ISBN 9782221057544.
  6. ^ Earnshaw, Pat (1985). The Identification of Lace. De Bilt: Cantecleer. ISBN 9021302179.
  7. ^ "Lacemaking: Associations and Guilds". Fibre Arts Online Web. Archived from the original on February 3, 2012. Retrieved 8 August 2011. {{cite web}}: Unknown parameter |deadurl= ignored (|url-status= suggested) (help)
  8. ^ Belleville, Cathleen (2002). Introducing Rosalibre Bobbin Lacle.
  9. ^ Woods, Sandy (2003). Special Effects in Bobbin Lace. Batsford. ISBN 0713480718.
  10. ^ a b Wanzenried, Esther. "Moderne Gronden". Kantbrief (2014–4): 24–25.
  11. ^ Voelcker-Löhr, Ulrike (2003). Viele Gute Gründe. Bochum.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link)
  12. ^ Ulrich, Uta (2009). Gründe mit System. Gammelby: Fay, Barbara Verlag. ISBN 3925184082.
  13. ^ Irvine, Veronika; Ruskey, Frank (2014). "Developing a Mathematical Model for Bobbin Lace". Journal of Mathematics and the Arts. 8 (3–4): 95–110. arXiv:1406.1532. Bibcode:2014arXiv1406.1532I.
  14. ^ Dings, Marcella. "Schatgraven - Uitdaging (Treasure Hunt - Challenge)". Kantbrief (2014–4): 34.
  15. ^ de Vries-de Graaf, Tonny. "Lace Fence (1)" (PDF). Kantbrief (2011–3): 18–20. Retrieved 26 December 2014.
  16. ^ The Lace Guild. "Bobbin Lace". Retrieved 4 December 2014.
  17. ^ Elizabeth Mincoff. Pillow Lace. Ruth Bean. ISBN 0-903585-10-3.
  18. ^ "Maltese Crafts". VassaloMalta. Retrieved 21 November 2014.
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