Starved Rock State Park

Template:Geobox Starved Rock State Park is a 2,630-acre (1,060 ha) Illinois state park located in Deer Park Township, LaSalle County, Illinois in the United States. The park is along the south bank of the Illinois River on Illinois Route 71, just southwest of the village of North Utica. The park is the most visited Illinois state park in Illinois, with over two million visitors in 2009.

The area was once home to Native Americans, particularly the Kaskaskia who lived in the Grand Village of the Illinois across the river. Louis Jolliet and Jacques Marquette were the first Europeans recorded as exploring the region, and by 1682, the French had established Fort St. Louis on a large sandstone butte overlooking the river. The fort was the first major settlement by the French in Illinois.

According to a native legend, a group of Illinois Confederation (Illini) pursued by the Ottawa and Potawatomi fled to the butte in the late 18th century. The Ottawa and Potawatomi besieged the butte until all of the Illini had starved, and the butte became known as Starved Rock. It was designated a U.S. National Historic Landmark in 1960.

The park includes 13 miles (21 km) of hiking trails, numerous waterfalls (ice falls in winter) and other landforms. Starved Rock State Park contains 18 sandstone canyons carved over the last 12,000 years by a combination of surface water runoff and groundwater outflow.

History

Early settlements

This area has been inhabited by humans since 8000 BC. Archeological surveys have located Archaic period (8000 – 2000 BC) settlements along the Illinois River. These prehistoric indigenous peoples thrived by hunting for waterfowl and deer with spears; copper Clovis points from these spears have been unearthed in the park. Havana Hopewell settlers during the Woodland period (1000 BC – 1000 AD) built earthwork mounds. They also made crude pottery and domesticated plants.

The growth of agriculture and maize surpluses supported the development of the complex Mississippian culture. Its peoples established permanent settlements in the Mississippi, Illinois, and Ohio river valleys. They harvested maize, beans, and pumpkins, and were noted for their copper ornaments. The first interaction with other tribes occurred during this period: artifacts from the major regional chiefdom and urban complex of Cahokia, at present-day Collinsville, Illinois, have been recovered at Illinois River sites.

The earliest group of inhabitants recorded at the region were the historical Kaskaskia, whose large settlement on the north side of the Illinois River was known as the Grand Village of the Illinois. The Kaskaskia were members of the Illinois Confederation (Illini), who inhabited the region in the 16th through the 18th centuries. They lived in wigwams made of light-weight material. The natives could easily dismantle these structures when they traveled to hunt bison twice a year. The women gathered tubers from nearby swamps as a secondary source of food. Small bands of aggressive Iroquois settlers arrived in northern Illinois in 1660 in search of new hunting grounds for beaver, stimulating inter-tribal warfare. The Kaskaskia struggled with the Iroquois, who were armed with guns seized from or traded by Europeans in the eastern United States.

In 1673 Louis Jolliet and Father Jacques Marquette were the first Europeans to explore the northern portion of the Mississippi River. On their return, they navigated the Illinois River, which they found to be a convenient route to Lake Michigan. Along the river, they found seventy-three cabins in the Grand Village, whose population rapidly expanded in the next several years. Marquette returned to the village in 1675 to set up the Mission of the Immaculate Conception, the first Christian mission in modern-day Illinois. Marquette was joined by fellow Jesuit priest Claude-Jean Allouez in 1677. By 1680, the Grand Village was home to several hundred native cabins and a population of 6,000-9,000.

In 1680 the Iroquois temporarily drove the Kaskaskia out of the settlement during the Beaver Wars, as they were trying to expand their hunting territory. With an increase in French settlers in the area, the Kaskaskia returned by 1683. The French were able to provide the Kaskaskia with guns in exchange for other goods, which they used for defense against the powerful Iroquois, already armed by the English.

Portrait of René-Robert Cavelier, Sieur de La Salle, who built the first French settlement in northern Illinois

French explorers led by René-Robert Cavelier, Sieur de La Salle built Fort St. Louis on a large butte by the river in the winter of 1682. Called La Roches, the butte provided an advantageous position for the fort above the Illinois River. A wooden palisade was the only form of defenses that La Salle used in securing the site. Inside the fort were a few wooden houses and native shelters. The French intended St. Louis to be the first of several forts to defend against English incursions and keep their settlements confined to the East Coast. Accompanying the French to the region were allied members of several native tribes from eastern areas, who integrated with the Kaskaskia: the Miami, Shawnee, and Mahican. The tribes established a new settlement at the base of the butte known as Hotel Plaza.

During the French and Indian Wars (also known as the Seven Years War and part of the European conflict between Great Britain and France), the French used the fort as a refuge against attacks by Iroquois, who were allied with the British. The Iroquois forced the settlers, then commanded by Henri de Tonti, to abandon the fort in 1691. De Tonti reorganized the settlers at Fort Pimitoui in modern-day Peoria.

French troops commanded by Pierre Deliette may have occupied Fort St. Louis from 1714 to 1718; Deliette's jurisdiction over the region ended when the territory was transferred from Canada to Louisiana. Fur trappers and traders used the fort periodically in the early 18th century until it became too dilapidated. No surface remains of the fort are found at the site today. The region was periodically occupied by a variety of native tribes who were forced westward by the expansion of European settlements. These included the Potawatomi, Ottawa, and Ojibwe.

On April 20, 1769, an Illinois Confederation warrior assassinated Chief Pontiac while he was on a diplomatic mission in Cahokia. According to local legend, the Ottawa, along with their allies the Potawatomi, attacked a band of Illini along the Illinois River. The tribe climbed to the butte to seek refuge from the attack. The Ottawa and Potawatomi continued the siege until the Illini tribe starved to death. After hearing the story, Europeans referred to the butte as Starved Rock.

Recreational area

File:Starved Rock Hotel.JPG

Ferdinand Walther constructed the Starved Rock Hotel, seen here circa 1905.

Daniel Hitt purchased the land from the United States Government in 1835 for $85 as compensation for his tenure in the U.S. Army. He sold the land in 1890 to Ferdinand Walther for $15,000. Recognizing the potential for developing the land as a resort, Walther constructed the Starved Rock Hotel and a natural pool near the base of Starved Rock, as well as a concession stand and dance hall. The French and Native American heritage of the region also drew visitors to the site. Walthers set up a variety of walkable trails and harbored small boats near the hotel that made trips along the Illinois River. Visitors could also visit Deer Park (modern-day Matthiessen State Park) a few miles to the south.

With the growth of competitive sites, Walther struggled to keep the complex economically stable. On June 10, 1911, he sold the land to the Illinois State Parks Commission for $146,000. The Commission named Starved Rock the first state park and moved their headquarters there. During its early years, Starved Rock State Park was primarily accessible only by railroad. Visitors next crossed the river by ferry to reach the park. Although other state parks were opened in Illinois in the following years, Starved Rock State Park remained the most-attended state park in Illinois.

Starved Rock (red marker) in Starved Rock State Park (green).

Franklin D. Roosevelt's New Deal legislation in the 1930s called for the creation of the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) to provide jobs for young men. The focus of this group was to preserve natural areas in the rural United States. CCC Camp 614 was deployed to Starved Rock State Park from the Jefferson Barracks Military Post in Missouri. Unlike most CCC groups in the nation, Camp 614 included African Americans. The group, composed of roughly 200 men, constructed trails, shelters, and benches throughout the park. In 1933, the group was joined by Camp 1609 from Fort Sheridan via Readstown, Wisconsin. Camp 1609 constructed the Starved Rock Lodge, several surrounding log cabins, and a large parking lot. The lodge was particularly noted for its elegant fireplaces, constructed from limestone imported from Joliet. Men from camps 614 and 1609 lay more than 25 miles of trails. Camp 614 was reassigned to Illini National Forest in 1934. The men were replaced by those of Camp 2601 from Fort Sheridan, who constructed the Wildcat Canyon bridge, among others.

When Illinois Route 71 was opened in 1942, it allowed easy automotive access from Chicago. Starved Rock was declared a National Historic Landmark in 1960..

The butte has eroded eighteen to forty-eight inches due to foot traffic since the park was developed. To curb this, the Illinois Young Adult Conservation Corps installed a platform and staircase on the landmark in 1981. The CCC-era Starved Rock Lodge and Cabins were added to the National Register of Historic Places on May 8, 1985. The Illinois Bureau of Tourism listed Starved Rock State Park as one of the "Seven Wonders of Illinois" in 2007. The state park is the most popular in Illinois, attracting more than two million visitors in 2009.

Climate

See also: Climate of Illinois

Northern Illinois has a humid continental climate, featuring mild summers and cold winters capable of producing snow storms. The highest recorded temperature at the park was 112 °F (44 °C) in 1936, and the record low was −25 °F (-32 °C) in 1985. January is the coldest month at the park, July the warmest, and June the wettest. Starved Rock State Park averages 35.7 inches (906.8 cm) of precipitation. The highest recorded temperature at the park was 104 °F (40 °C) in 1988, and the record low was −19 °F (−28.3 °C) in 1982.

Climate data for Starved Rock State Park
Month	Jan	Feb	Mar	Apr	May	Jun	Jul	Aug	Sep	Oct	Nov	Dec	Year
Mean daily maximum °F (°C)	30 (−1)	37 (3)	49 (9)	62 (17)	73 (23)	82 (28)	85 (29)	83 (28)	77 (25)	65 (18)	49 (9)	36 (2)	61 (16)
Mean daily minimum °F (°C)	12 (−11)	18 (−8)	29 (−2)	39 (4)	50 (10)	59 (15)	63 (17)	61 (16)	53 (12)	41 (5)	30 (−1)	18 (−8)	39 (4)
Average precipitation inches (mm)	1.45 (37)	1.32 (34)	2.60 (66)	3.44 (87)	4.00 (102)	4.13 (105)	3.64 (92)	3.78 (96)	3.50 (89)	2.59 (66)	2.95 (75)	2.27 (58)	35.67 (907)
Source: The Weather Channel

Recreation

Wildcat Canyon Waterfall

Trails

There are over 13 miles (21 km) of hiking trails in Starved Rock State Park.

• To Aurora Canyon is a 0.3-mile (0.48 km) trail from the Starved Rock Lodge. A waterfall can form in the canyon after heavy rains.
• To Illinois Canyon is a 4.7-mile (7.6 km) trail and is the only one that doesn't include man-made walkways. The canyon is a long distance from the visitor center, but has its own parking lot on Route 71 for a much shorter hike. Depending on recent rainfall, there can be as many as six waterfalls along the trail
• To Kaskaskia Canyon is a 4-mile (6.4 km) trial from the visitor center. It is notable for its Water Horsetails, which were previously used by natives as medicine straws. The trail has its own parking lot.
• To LaSalle Canyon is a 2-mile (3.2 km) trail from the visitor center. A waterfall is active for most of the year.
• To Lover's Leap Overlook is a 0.7-mile (1.1 km) trail that offers a view of the river. The name comes from a legend where a young native fell in love with a woman in another tribe. The two tribes were rivals, and the two natives decided to leap off the ledge in an embrace rather than spend their lives apart. This trail is noted for its birdwatching, particularly for eagles and pelicans.
• To Ottawa Canyon is a 3.9-mile (6.3 km) trail featuring an active waterfall. The trail has its own parking lot.
• To St. Louis Canyon is a 1.5-mile (2.4 km) trail featuring active waterfalls that form icefalls in the winter. It is one of the park's most popular trails and has its own parking lot.
• To Starved Rock is a 0.3-mile (0.48 km) trail to the titular sandstone butte. Visitors can climb onto a deck on the butte to view the Illinois River. Lover's Leap overlook is also visible from the butte.
• To Tonty Canyon is a 1.9-mile (3.1 km) trail that offers a double waterfall after heavy rains. The trail is slippery and is not recommended for children
• To Wildcat Canyon is a 1.0-mile (1.6 km) trail that leads to three viewing points to a waterfall. There are viewing points on the east and west, or one can descend into the canyon itself. It is also notable for its ice falls in winter.

Other activities

Camping, boating and fishing are popular activities in the park. On the property is the Starved Rock Lodge and Conference Center, a 1930s lodge built of full timbers by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC), one of numerous public works projects commissioned by the Federal government during the Great Depression. It is in National Park Service Rustic style. Overnight accommodations and restaurant are available at the park and in nearby communities of LaSalle, Oglesby, Ottawa, Peru and Utica.

Starved Rock State Park is one of the busiest State Parks in Illinois, with yearly attendance over 1 million visitors each year. While the natural areas show definite signs of great use (erosion is one of the biggest problems the park faces), a great deal of botanical diversity is found there. As an example, 18 species of ferns have been identified in the forest, wetland, and canyon habitats.

Visitors are advised to stay on the trail for their safety. There were four deaths from falls between 1999 and 2006.[1] No venomous or dangerous animals have been identified within the park. Nearby Matthiessen State Park had a very rare sighting of a timber rattlesnake in the 1980s.

Recent history

Sandstone cliff

On March 14, 1960, three women were murdered in St. Louis Canyon. A lodge employee named Chester Weger confessed to robbing and killing the three victims, but later recanted, alleging that his confession had been coerced. He was convicted, based chiefly on his confession. He is serving a life sentence.

Due to controversy over his confession and alleged police mishandling of evidence, some activists have tried to have the case retried. Weger's case and confession took place before the US Supreme Court ruling (known as the Miranda v. Arizona case) that established the right of prisoners to remain silent when being questioned by police.

The top of Starved Rock was the site of an archeological excavation by the University of Illinois during the summer of 1974.

See also

• Matthiessen State Park

References

• Steve Stout, The Starved Rock Murders

Location

Starved Rock is in close proximity to both I-39 (Exit 54) and I-80 (Exit 81). Both Illinois Routes 71 and 178 run through the park.

External links

• Starved Rock State Park
• Ottawa Visitors Center Ottawa, Illinois - Gateway to Starved Rock