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Here you go - the very first paragraph - it's not stated expressis verbis but the mountains considered [and often cited as being] the tallest (by base to summit measure) like Nanga Parbat or Dhaulagiri are roughly 1500 m lower
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'''Rakaposhi''' ('''Räkapoşi''') ([[Urdu]]: راکا پہشئ), is a [[mountain]] in the [[Karakoram]] [[mountain range]] in [[Pakistan]].<ref name="pb"/> It is situated in the [[Nagar Valley]] approximately 100&nbsp;km north of the city of [[Gilgit, Pakistan|Gilgit]] in the [[Gilgit District]] of the [[Gilgit–Baltistan]] province of Pakistan. Rakaposhi means "Snow Covered" in the local language. Rakaposhi is also known as Dumani ("Mother of Mist"). It is ranked [[List of highest mountains|27th highest]] in the world and [[List of mountains in Pakistan|12th highest]] in Pakistan, but it is more popular for its beauty than its rank might suggest. In a colloquial sense, i.e. measured from base to summit, Rakaposhi with its uninterrupted ~6000 m vertical rise, is the tallest mountain on Earth.{{cn|date=September 2013}}
'''Rakaposhi''' ('''Räkapoşi''') ([[Urdu]]: راکا پہشئ), is a [[mountain]] in the [[Karakoram]] [[mountain range]] in [[Pakistan]].<ref name="pb"/> It is situated in the [[Nagar Valley]] approximately 100&nbsp;km north of the city of [[Gilgit, Pakistan|Gilgit]] in the [[Gilgit District]] of the [[Gilgit–Baltistan]] province of Pakistan. Rakaposhi means "Snow Covered" in the local language. Rakaposhi is also known as Dumani ("Mother of Mist"). It is ranked [[List of highest mountains|27th highest]] in the world and [[List of mountains in Pakistan|12th highest]] in Pakistan, but it is more popular for its beauty than its rank might suggest. In a colloquial sense, i.e. measured from base to summit, Rakaposhi with its uninterrupted ~6000 m vertical rise<ref>[http://www.summitpost.org/rakaposhi/173510] according to Rakaposhi's page on summitpost.org</ref>, is '''the tallest mountain on Earth'''.


Rakaposhi was first climbed in 1958 by [[Mike Banks (mountaineer)|Mike Banks]] and [[Tom Patey]], members of a [[United Kingdom|British]]-[[Pakistan]]i expedition, via the Southwest Spur/Ridge route.<ref>[http://www.summitpost.org/rakaposhi/173510 Climbing details on summitpost.org] Retrieved 25 September 2011</ref> Both of them suffered minor [[frostbite]] during the ascent. Another climber slipped and fell on the descent and died during the night.
Rakaposhi was first climbed in 1958 by [[Mike Banks (mountaineer)|Mike Banks]] and [[Tom Patey]], members of a [[United Kingdom|British]]-[[Pakistan]]i expedition, via the Southwest Spur/Ridge route.<ref>[http://www.summitpost.org/rakaposhi/173510 Climbing details on summitpost.org] Retrieved 25 September 2011</ref> Both of them suffered minor [[frostbite]] during the ascent. Another climber slipped and fell on the descent and died during the night.

Revision as of 12:01, 5 September 2013

Rakaposhi
راکا پہشئ
Rakaposhi Peak from Taghafari Base Camp
Highest point
Elevation7,788 m (25,551 ft)[1]
Ranked 27th
Prominence2,818 m (9,245 ft)[2]
Ranked 122nd
ListingUltra
Geography
Rakaposhi is located in Pakistan
Rakaposhi
Rakaposhi
Location in Pakistan
LocationNagar Valley, Gilgit–Baltistan, Pakistan
Parent rangeRakaposhi-Haramosh Mountains, Karakoram
Climbing
First ascent1958 by Mike Banks and Tom Patey
Easiest routeSouthwest Spur - glacier/snow/ice

Rakaposhi (Räkapoşi) (Urdu: راکا پہشئ), is a mountain in the Karakoram mountain range in Pakistan.[1] It is situated in the Nagar Valley approximately 100 km north of the city of Gilgit in the Gilgit District of the Gilgit–Baltistan province of Pakistan. Rakaposhi means "Snow Covered" in the local language. Rakaposhi is also known as Dumani ("Mother of Mist"). It is ranked 27th highest in the world and 12th highest in Pakistan, but it is more popular for its beauty than its rank might suggest. In a colloquial sense, i.e. measured from base to summit, Rakaposhi with its uninterrupted ~6000 m vertical rise[3], is the tallest mountain on Earth.

Rakaposhi was first climbed in 1958 by Mike Banks and Tom Patey, members of a British-Pakistani expedition, via the Southwest Spur/Ridge route.[4] Both of them suffered minor frostbite during the ascent. Another climber slipped and fell on the descent and died during the night.

Park

The people of Nagar have dedicated the Rakaposhi range mountain area as a community park. The Minister for Northern Areas inaugurated the park. The Rakaposhi mountain range is the home of endangered species such as Marco Polo sheep, Snow Leopard, brown bear, wolves and many other species[citation needed].

Notable features

Rakaposhi is notable for its exceptional rise over local terrain. On the north, it rises 5,800 metres (19,029 ft) in only an 11.5 km (7.1 mi) horizontal distance from the Hunza River. There are magnificent views of Rakaposhi from the Karakoram Highway on the route through Hunza. A tourist spot in the town of Ghulmat (located in the Nagar Valley) called "Zero Point of Rakaposhi" is the closest convenient view point of the mountain.

Time line

  • 1892 Martin Conway explores the south side of Rakaposhi.
  • 1938 M. Vyvyan and R. Campbell Secord make the first reconnaissance and climb a north-western forepeak (about 5,800m/19,000') via the northwest ridge.
  • 1947 Secord returns with H. W. Tilman and two Swiss climbers, Hans Gyr and Robert Kappeler; they ascend via the Gunti glacier to 5,800m/19,000' on the south-west spur.
  • 1954 Cambridge University team, led by Alfred Tissières, attempts the peak via the south-west spur but only reached 6,340m/20,800'. Also, an Austro-German expedition led by Mathias Rebitsch attempted the same route.
  • 1956 A British-American expedition, led by Mike Banks, reaches 7,163m/23,500' on the Southwest Ridge, above the Gunti glacier.
  • 1958 The first ascent, noted above.
  • 1964 An Irish expedition attempts the long and difficult Northwest Ridge.
  • 1971 Karl Herrligkofer leads an attempt on the elegant but difficult North Spur (or North Ridge).
  • 1973 Herrligkofer returns to the North Spur but is again unsuccessful due to time and weather problems.
  • 1979 A Polish-Pakistani expedition ascends the Northwest Ridge from the Biro Glacier.
  • 1979 A Japanese expedition from Waseda University, led by Eiho Ohtani, succeeds in climbing the North Spur. Summit party: Ohtani and Matsushi Yamashita. This ascent was expedition-style, done over a period of six weeks, with 5000m of fixed rope.
  • 1984 A Canadian team achieves a semi-alpine-style ascent of the North Spur, using much less fixed rope than the Japanese team had. Summit party: Barry Blanchard, David Cheesmond, Kevin Doyle.
  • 1985-1987 Various unsuccessful attempts on the long East Ridge.
  • 1986 A Dutch team climbs a variation of the Northwest Ridge route.
  • 1995 An ascent via the Northwest Ridge.
  • 1997 An ascent via the Southwest Spur/Ridge (possibly the original route).
  • 2000 An attempt from the East side (Bagrot Glacier).
  • 2003 A Mountaineering expedition team of Chiltan Adventures Association Balochistan led by Hayatullah Khan Durrani with coordination Malik Abdul Rahim Baabai & Noor Mohammad Khilji followed by Saad Tariq Saddiqi Manager of the team from Alpine Club of Pakistan (Islamabad) achieves ascent of the Southwest Spur/Ridge (first ascent route. expedition members Abdul Samad Khilji (Late)Mohammad Ali Khan Mandokhail (Late) Syed Taimoor Shah (Late) Nasibullah Khilji (Late) the others were stayed at 6000m,
  • 2005 Nazeem Khan climbs the peak (Mubeen Khan witness).

Climbing routes

The routes with successful summits so far have been (see the timeline as well):

  • Southwest Spur/Ridge (first ascent route). Long, but not exceedingly technical. Some tricky gendarmes (rock pinnacles). Has been repeated.
  • Northwest Ridge. Long, and more technically difficult than the SW Spur/Ridge. Has been repeated.
  • North Spur (a.k.a. North Ridge). Shorter than the above two routes, but much more technically difficult. Has been repeated, including a semi-alpine-style (capsule style) ascent.

Attempts have also been made from the east side (Bagrot Glacier), the East Ridge, and the North Face.

  • Rakaposhi from Base Camp
    Rakaposhi from Base Camp
  • Morning light on Rakaposhi Volker Thewalt
    Morning light on Rakaposhi Volker Thewalt
  • Close up of Rakaposhi. Volker Thewalt
    Close up of Rakaposhi. Volker Thewalt
  • Rakaposhi from the south of Aliabad. Volker Thewalt
    Rakaposhi from the south of Aliabad. Volker Thewalt
  • Panoramic shot of Diran (left, 7,257m) and Rakaposhi (right, 7,788m) from a point before entering Taghafari base camp.
    Panoramic shot of Diran (left, 7,257m) and Rakaposhi (right, 7,788m) from a point before entering Taghafari base camp.
  • Rakaposhi Peak From KKH
    Rakaposhi Peak From KKH

See also

References

  1. ^ a b "Rakaposhi" on Peakbagger Retrieved 25 September 2011
  2. ^ a b Karakoram ultras on Peaklist.org Retrieved 25 September 2011
  3. ^ [1] according to Rakaposhi's page on summitpost.org
  4. ^ Climbing details on summitpost.org Retrieved 25 September 2011

Sources

  • Jill Neate, High Asia: An Illustrated History of the 7000 Metre Peaks, ISBN 0-89886-238-8.
  • Andy Fanshawe and Stephen Venables, Himalaya Alpine-Style, Hodder and Stoughton, 1995 ISBN 0-89886-456-9.
  • Himalayan Index
  • DEM files for the Himalaya/Karakoram (Corrected versions of SRTM data)
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