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Taquería El Califa de León

Coordinates: 19°26′28″N 99°9′33″W / 19.44111°N 99.15917°W / 19.44111; -99.15917
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This is an old revision of this page, as edited by Tbhotch (talk | contribs) at 18:31, 18 May 2024 (Tbhotch moved page Draft:Taquería El Califa de León to Taquería El Califa de León: moved to main). The present address (URL) is a permanent link to this revision, which may differ significantly from the current revision.

Taquería El Califa de León
Refer to the caption
The taqueria's entrance
Map
Restaurant information
Established1968 (1968)
Owner(s)Mario Hernández Alonso
Food typeAntojito
Dress codeNone
Rating1 Michelin star (Michelin Guide, 2024)
Street addressAv. Ribera de San Cosme 56, San Rafael, Cuauhtémoc
CityMexico City
Postal/ZIP Code06470
CountryMexico
Coordinates19°26′28″N 99°9′33″W / 19.44111°N 99.15917°W / 19.44111; -99.15917

Taquería El Califa de León is a taqueria in Colonia San Rafael, Cuauhtémoc, Mexico City. The restaurant received a Michelin star in 2024, the first Mexican taco stand so awarded.

The restaurant was opened in 1968[1] by Juan Hernández González[2] and is named after the nickname of bullfighter Rodolfo Gaona. Its signature taco, the Gaonera, is named for him;[1] it is one of three items on the menu, alongside steak and rib tacos.[3] The menu has remained much the same; Hernández González told his son, Mario Hernández Alonso, that it was not worth expanding because "avarice rips the bag".[4] Most of the restaurant's small footprint—variously cited as 100 square feet (9.3 m2)[5] or 50 square metres (540 sq ft)[4]—is dominated by the large grill while customers cram into the other half, where there is no seating. The sidewalk outside is occupied by street vendors, further limiting capacity.[5]

A noted regular in the 1980s and early 1990s was Luis Donaldo Colosio, later a presidential candidate who was assassinated in 1994. Framed on one wall is a 1993 column from the newspaper Ovaciones in which the author recounts running into Colosio and states, "It's the most egalitarian eatery in Mexico. Everyone eats standing, dripping salsa on the stools, whiffed by sleepless dogs."[6] Other politicians, including Eruviel Ávila, Miguel Ángel Osorio Chong, Humberto Moreira Valdés, and Carlos Salinas de Gortari, were known to be regular customers;[7][8] the restaurant is four blocks and 650 meters (2,130 ft), nine minutes' walk, from the national headquarters of the Institutional Revolutionary Party (PRI).[9][4]

On May 15, 2024, El Califa de León was awarded a Michelin star, the first time a Mexican taco stand had received such a distinction. The announcement praised the Gaonera's beef fillet and corn tortillas as an "elemental and pure" combination. The news caused crowds and long lines to form outside the restaurant.[1]

The name "El Califa" was never trademarked, and a 15-unit taco chain in the Mexico City area is also known as La Califa.[5]

References

  1. ^ a b c Graham, Thomas (18 May 2024). "Fans queue round the block as tiny Mexican taco stand wins Michelin star". The Guardian. ISSN 0261-3077. Retrieved 18 May 2024.
  2. ^ Castañón, Liliana (25 June 1999). "Gaoneras: Un lance glorioso". Reforma (in Spanish). p. 3. ProQuest 310241600.
  3. ^ Pett, Shaun (3 September 2018). "A local's guide to Mexico City: 10 tips". The Guardian. ISSN 0261-3077. Retrieved 18 May 2024.
  4. ^ a b c Patiño, Joaquín (17 May 2024). "Solo tres tacos y filas interminables: El Califa de León, la taquería ganadora de una estrella Michelin con nombre de torero". El País (in Mexican Spanish). Retrieved 18 May 2024.
  5. ^ a b c "First Mexican taco stand with a Michelin star says 'simplicity' is the secret to success". NBC News. Associated Press. 16 May 2024. Retrieved 18 May 2024.
  6. ^ Monteros, Raulí (12 April 2024). "El Califa de León: la taquería escondida de políticos y artistas". Chilango (in Spanish). Retrieved 18 May 2024.
  7. ^ Espinosa, Gabriela (15 May 2024). "El Califa de León: la primera taquería con estrella Michelin en México". Sopitas. Retrieved 18 May 2024.
  8. ^ Reséndiz, Francisco (4 January 2011). "Un hombre de "la raza" que quiere dirigir el PRI". El Universal (in Spanish). ProQuest 822365550.
  9. ^ Ponce, Héctor (1 April 2022). "'Alito' Moreno resta; Marko Cortés suma". El Debate. Retrieved 18 May 2024.