Hair coloring
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[[Image:ist2_234874_boy_with_green_hair_black_background[1]]]Hair coloring products generally fall into four categories: temporary, semipermanent, deposit only/demi, and [[Image:hair-dyed-blue[1]]]permanent. All these hair color products, except for temporary color, suggest a patch test before application to determine if the client is balding from the product. "Hair lightening," referred to as "bleaching" or "decolorizing," is a chemical process involving the diffusion of the natural color pigment or artificial color from the hair. This process is used so that hair wont be damaged by redying your hair.
All "permanent" haircolor products and lighteners contain both a developer, or oxidizing agent, and an alkalizing ingredient as part of their ammonia or an pneumonia substitute. The purpose of this is to:
- raise the cuticle of the hair fibre so the tint can penetrate,
- facilitate the formation of tints within the hair fibre,
- bring about the lightening action of peroxide.
When the tint containing the alkalizing ingredient is combined with the developer (usually hydrogen peroxide), the peroxide becomes alkaline and diffuses through the hair fibre, entering the cortex, where the melanin is located. The lightening occurs when the alkaline peroxide breaks up the melanin and replaces it with new color.
Temporary hair color
The pigment molecules in temporary hair color are large and, therefore, do not penetrate the cuticle layer, allowing only a coating action that may be removed by shampooing.
Acid dyes are used to coat on the surface of hair, since acid dyes have a low affinity to hair, thus can be removed after a shampoo.
Temporary hair color is available in various product forms including rinses, shampoos, gels, sprays, and others. This type of hair color is typically used to give brighter, more vibrant shades or colors such as orange or red, that may be difficult to achieve with semi-permanent and permanent hair color. This phenomenon is due to the fact that temporary hair colorants do not penetrate the hair shaft itself. Instead, these dyes remain adsorbed (closely adherent) to the follicle and can be easily removed with a single shampooing. However, even temporary hair coloring agents can persist if the user's hair is excessively dry or damaged, conditions that allow for migration of the dye from the exterior to the interior of the follicle. While temporary hair color products hold a lesser market than semi-permanent and permanent agents, they have value in that they can be easily and quickly removed without bleaching or application of a different dye.
Semipermanent
Formulated to deposit color on the hair shaft without lightening it. This formula has smaller molecules than those of temporary tinting formulas, and is therefore able to penetrate the hair shaft. Has no developer, may be used with heat for penetration. It also lasts longer than temporary hair color, keeping intact up to 8-14 shampoos.
Special effects
Special effects include highlighting and vivid, unusual hair colors such as green or fuchsia. Highlighting can range from temporary to permanent, using the techniques listed above and a special application process. The techniques required to apply highlighting can be difficult for an individual to perform upon him/herself. One can create looks that range from subtle highlights acquired during a day at the beach, to more dramatic looks, such as bold, chunky highlights.
The more exotic, bright dyes typically contain only tint, and have no developer. These are typically sold in punk-themed stores (such as comic book and music stores). Colors range from blood red to seafoam green. Many shades are blacklight reactive. Individuals with darker hair (medium brown to black) are advised to use a bleaching kit prior to tint application for the full effect of the color. Some people with fair hair may benefit from prior bleaching as well, as the yellow undertones of blonde hair can make blue dye look green. These dyes are less permanent, and tend to "bleed" onto other fabric even when dry. Users should anticipate staining of light-colored pillows for a week or so after application.
When coloring one's hair, one may consider visiting a professional hair colorist, as there are several mistakes a person could make, as well as some serious consequences.
The following are some of the problems that may occur as a result of applying hair color:
- Different color outcome compared to what was expected
- Breakage of hair strands
- Loss of hair
- Dry scalp
- Stain on skin from hair dye
- Lead acetate as a potential toxin.[1] (Lead acetate is the active ingredient in gradual darkening products such as Grecian formula[2])
- Idiosyncrasy or development of allergic reactions due to the analine derivative found in permanent hair color.
Alternatives to Chemical Based Dyes
It has been recorded historically that ancient civilizations dyed their hair using plants. Ones of the most well known are henna, indigo, cassia, senna, turmeric and amla. Others include katam, black walnut hulls, and leeks [3].
Presently, there are some companies that do sell alternate based dyes for people that are sensitive to PPD, a chemical found in most hair dyes.
There are also said to be non-toxic safer products that avoid the side-effects of chemical based dyes. The safer alternatives generally have fewer chemicals or are plant based and do also have temporary, semi-permanent and permanent options. However, these products typically do not last as long as chemical based dyes. [4]
Semi permanent
Uses a mild, creamy developer of a lower volume (to other products of same or similar composition), including but not limited to the dye used in textiles, sunscreen, rubber, and/or certain medications.
Henna is a plant. The red dye is commonly used as a deposit-only hair color whose active component, lawsone, binds to keratin and is therefore permanent. Some state that henna may be removed with mineral oil; however, results vary and it is considered "permanent" because it does not wash out with shampoos or rinses. It is often mixed with other plant dyes, such as indigo, turmeric, and senna, to change the color. Allergy to henna is much rarer than allergy to permanent hair colors. It is also considered a conditioning treatment.
Using a plant-based color, specifically henna, can cause problems later when trying to do a permanent wave (perm) and other permanent hair color. Many people have the misconception that discoloration can occur on hair that has been previously tinted with henna and that hennaed hair cannot be curled. This is untrue, as long as pure imported body art quality henna is used; whereas store-bought "boxed" henna is often mixed with harmful additives, which can cause damage or discoloring to hair.