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History

Pre-colonial times

Before the colonization of what is now New York State in the 17th century, Pelham Bay Park comprised an archipelago of islands separated by salt marshes and peninsular beaches.[1] Geologically, most of the park's land first formed during the end of the last ice age, the Wisconsin glaciation, which occurred 10,000 to 15,000 years before the first colonists arrived. The melting of the glaciers caused the formation of the current marshes. Sea level rise from the melting glaciers caused sedimentation along the shore, creating sand and mud flats. Gradually, saltwater cordgrass started to retain sediment, causing some of the inland marshes to flood only during high tide.[2]

The Siwanoy (transliterated as "southern people") were the first Native American tribe to inhabit the Long Island Sound's northern shoreline east to Connecticut. They lived a mostly hunter-gatherer existence.[3][4] The Siwanoy used the modern-day park site as a ceremonial and burial site, as evidenced by the wampum belts found in the area,[5] which were used for diplomatic purposes among local Native American tribes.[6] Two glacial erratics in the park, deposited during the end of the last ice age, were used ceremonially by the Siwanoy: the "Gray Mare" on Hunter Island, and Mishow near the Theodore Kazimiroff Nature Trail.[3]

17th and 18th centuries

Aerial view of the park (pictured in the center left)

The Dutch West India Company purchased the land in 1639.[6] They called it Vreedelandt, which roughly translates to "land of freedom",[4][7] and alternatively Oostdorp, meaning "east village".[7] Oostdorp became the area known as Westchester Square, to the southwest of the current park.[8][9]

In 1642, Anne Hutchinson and her family moved from Rhode Island to Split Rock, along the Hutchinson River in what is now Pelham Bay Park. Although the family was English, the land was part of New Netherland under Dutch authority.[10] The exact location of the Hutchinson house is unknown, with one scholar saying that the house was in the modern-day park on the east side of the Hutchinson River,[11]: 231  and another saying that the house was on the west side of the river in now Baychester.[12] The Siwanoy destroyed the Hutchinson settlement and killed the family in August 1643,[11]: 239 [13] in reprisal for the unrelated massacres carried out under Willem Kieft's direction of the Dutch West India Company's New Amsterdam colony.[14][11]: 237 [10]

In 1654 an Englishman named Thomas Pell purchased 50,000 acres (20,000 ha) from the Siwanoy, comprising the land of the current Pelham Bay Park as well as the nearby town of Pelham, New York, and made his estate on 9,188 acres (3,718 ha) of that land.[15][16] The current park consists of the southernmost portion of Pell's estate, excluding Hart Island and City Island.[17] Pell's land became known as Pelham Manor after Charles II's 1666 charter,[16][18] and parts of Pell's land claim were in conflict with that of other nearby settlers.[8] Pell died in 1669, willing his property to his nephew John,[8][19] who sold off City Island in 1685.[8] The land grant was renewed in 1687.[16] The next year, Jacob Leisler bought 6,000 acres (2,400 ha) of the remaining property on behalf of the Huguenots, and with that land, founded the town of New Rochelle for the Huguenots.[8][17] Upon John Pell's death in 1700, he willed the property to his son Joseph, who in turn transferred ownership to his own son, John. Ownership of the manor then went to the Bartow family,[20] who were maternal descendants of the Pell family.[7] The Pell family burial plot faced the Pelham Bay waterfront on the eastern side of the manor.[21][22]

The land was the site of the Battle of Pell's Point during the American Revolutionary War.[23] After the British forces unsuccessfully attempted to trap the main body of the Continental Army on the island of Manhattan, British Army commander-in-chief General Sir William Howe looked for another location along Long Island Sound to disembark his troops.[24]: 246, 255  On October 18, 1776, he landed 4,000 men at Pelham, close to the current park.[25]: 5  A brigade of 750 men under the command of the American Colonel John Glover were already inland, and they attacked the British advance units from behind a series of stone walls.[25]: 14–17  After a series of attacks, the British broke off, and the Americans retreated.[24]: 255 [15][26]

In 1836, Robert Bartow, a descendant of Thomas Pell,[27] bought 30 acres (12 ha) of his ancestor's old estate. By 1842, construction was complete on the Bartow-Pell Mansion, the family's manor.[28] Bartow died in 1868, and his family sold the mansion to the city in 1880.[28] The mansion went maintained until 1914, when the city and International Garden Club assumed joint maintenance of the building.[28][29]

1870s and 1880s: Creation

Mouth of Hutchinson River, in the park

In the 1870s, landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted envisioned a greenbelt across the Bronx, consisting of parks and parkways that would align more with existing geography than a grid system similar to the Commissioners' Plan of 1811 in Manhattan. That grid had given rise to Central Park, a park with mostly artificial features within the bounds of the grid.[30][31] However, in 1877, the city declined to act upon his plan.[32] Around the same time, New York Herald editor John Mullaly pushed for the creation of parks in New York City, particularly lauding the Van Cortlandt and Pell families' properties in the western and eastern Bronx respectively. He formed the New York Park Association in November 1881.[33][34] There were objections to the system, which would apparently be too far from Manhattan, in addition to precluding development on the site.[35][36] However, newspapers and prominent lobbyists, who supported such a park system, were able to petition the bill into the New York State Senate, and later, the New York State Assembly (the legislature's lower house).[37][38]: 117–138  In June 1884, Governor Grover Cleveland signed the New Parks Act into law, authorizing the creation of the park system.[37][39][36][40]

Legal disputes carried on for years. Opponents argued that building a park system would divert funds from more important infrastructure, and that everyone in the city would need to pay taxes to pay for the parks' construction, regardless of whether they lived near the parks. In particular, Pelham Bay Park was located within Westchester County at the time, out of city limits.[41] The city was reluctant to pay to buy the parkland because of the cost and locations.[42] Supporters argued that the parks were for the benefit of all the city's citizens; that the value of properties near the parks would appreciate greatly over time; that the Pelham Bay Park site could easily be converted into a park; and that Pelham Bay Park would soon be annexed to the city. Ultimately, the parks were established, owing to efforts from supporters.[41]

After much litigation, the city acquired the land for the park.[42] Although the residents of Pelham had initially supported the park's creation, they came to oppose it when they found that the park's creation would decrease the town's tax revenue.[43] The 1,700 acres of land for the park were part of the town's 3,000-acre (1,200 ha) area at that time, but could not be taxed, nearly halving the town's tax revenues from land area. One Pelham resident's letter to New York City Mayor Abram Hewitt, asking for financial assistance to supplement the town's growing tax rate, was published in The New York Times in February 1887.[44] A month later, a group of Pelham residents petitioned Hewitt to oppose the park plan.[45][43] The government of New York City also did not want to pay taxes to the town of Pelham if it bought the land for the park, which had been one of the reasons for its initial opposition to acquiring the land.[46] There was a proposal to have New York City pay taxes to Pelham if it acquired the land, which the city's Tax Department called "entirely novel, and of course, wrong".[47]

Despite Pelham residents' opposition to the park, the city acquired the land for Pelham Bay Park in 1887, and it officially became a park in 1888.[48]: 693 [42] Pelham Bay Park became a recreation area under the auspices of the Bronx Parks Department,[49] which bought the land for $2,746,688, equivalent to $93,143,242 in 2023.[4] The park used land from multiple estates spread out over an excess of 1,700 acres (690 ha).[4][42][50] Some of the old estates' mansions were still standing twenty years later.[51] To alleviate the concerns of Westchester property owners who lost land during the park system's acquisition, the New York City Commissioners of Estimate distributed compensation payments.[48]: 694  The Commissioners of Estimate paid a combined $9 million (equivalent to $305,200,000 in 2023), but some land owners sued for more compensation in 1889.[52]

Rock outcropping in Pelham Bay Park

1890s to 1920s: Early years

In 1890, Mullaly proposed using the site for the 1893 World's Fair due to its size;[53] however, the fair was eventually awarded to Chicago instead.[54] The Pell family's burial vault was also marked for preservation that year,[55]: 34 (PDF p.135)  and in July 1891, the descendants of the Pell family were given permission to maintain and restore the plot.[56]: 70 (PDF p.128)  After the park opened, several individuals were allowed to reside in the mansions within the park. In 1892, the New York City Department of Public Parks separately allowed the occupation of the Hunter, Hoyt, and Twin Island houses.[57]: 9 (PDF p.67), 32 (PDF p.89), 109 (PDF p.193)  The next year, two buildings near Pelham Bridge were auctioned off.[58]: 404 (PDF p.471) 

Pelham Bay Park's ownership was passed to New York City when the part of the Bronx east of the Bronx River was annexed to the city in 1895.[50] Despite the park being for public use, some of the old estates remained standing, with a few occupied by private families. Due to its distance from the city, NYC Parks decided to keep 3,000 acres (1,200 ha) of Pelham Bay and Van Cortlandt Parks in their natural state, unlike some of the other parks closer to Manhattan, which were being extensively landscaped.[59]: PDF pp.442–443  None of the houses were rented in 1899,[60]: 23  but by 1900, thirty-six houses in the park were being used as private residences, comprising 75% of houses rented within parks in the Bronx.[61]: 20  This number dropped to thirty-three the next year.[62]: 65 

In spring 1902, NYC Parks destroyed two houses in the park and used the remaining wood to build free bathhouses, which were used by about 700 bathers per day during that summer.[63]: 116 (PDF p.85)  Around 1903, Hunter Island became a popular summer vacation destination.[64][65] Due to overcrowding on Hunter Island, NYC Parks opened a campsite two years later at Rodman's Neck on the south tip of the island, with 100 bathhouses.[65][42][50][66] Orchard Beach, at the time a tiny recreational area on the northeast tip of Rodman's Neck,[67] was expanded that year.[66] In 1904, an athletic field was opened within Pelham Bay Park.[68]

By 1917, Hunter Island saw half a million seasonal visitors.[65] Orchard Beach also became popular, with an average of 2,000 visitors on summer weekdays and 5,000 visitors on summer weekends in 1912.[42] However, the park's condition started to decline in the 1920s as the surrounding areas were developed. The park facilities were dirty and deteriorating due to overuse, and there was a lot of vandalism.[42][50] Hunter Island was closed and camping was banned, so some park patrons began camping illegally.[69]

1930s-1960s: Moses renovation projects

The current Orchard Beach recreational area and Split Rock golf course was created through the efforts of New York City park commissioner Robert Moses.[70][27][71] Immediately after assuming his position in 1934, Moses ordered engineers to inventory every park in the city to see what needed renovating.[72] He devised plans for a new Orchard Beach recreation area after he saw the popularity of the Hunter Island campsite.[65] On February 11, 1934, Moses announced a plan for the new golf course.[70] Two weeks later, he announced another plan for the upgraded beach, which had been inspired by the design of Jones Beach on Long Island.[73] The beach and existing golf course would be reconstructed through the Works Progress Administration (WPA) under the 1930s New Deal program.[27][74][70][75]

Orchard Beach promenade, built in the 1930s

Moses canceled 625 leases for the project, and after campers unsuccessfully sued the city,[76] the site was cleared of campers in June.[77] Moses decided to connect Hunter Island and the Twin Islands to Rodman's Neck by filling in most of LeRoy's Bay.[67] The deteriorated Hunter Mansion was demolished with the construction of the beach.[78] The golf courses were reopened in June 1935, sixteen months after construction commenced. John van Kleek designed the brand-new Split Rock golf course as part of the city's program to upgrade or build ten golf courses around the city.[79][80]

A final design for the beach was unveiled in July 1935.[81][82][83] The beach project involved filling in approximately 110 acres (45 ha) of LeRoy's and Pelham Bays with landfill,[27] followed by a total of 4,000,000 cubic yards (3,100,000 m3) of sand.[84][85] Moses thought that waste from the New York City Department of Sanitation would be cheaper than sand.[84] In early 1935, workers began placing the garbage fill[86] around Rodman's Neck, Twin Island, and Hunter Island.[86][87] After the garbage began washing onto the beach, the rest of the site was filled-in using sand starting in 1936.[84][88] The beach, designed by Gilmore David Clarke and Aymar Embury II, was dedicated in July 1936[71][87] despite only being partially complete.[89][90] The beach officially opened on June 25, 1937.[91] Soon after Orchard Beach opened, it was expanded, starting with the southern locker room in 1939.[92][93] The water between Hunter and Twin Islands was filled in during 1946 and 1947, with new jetties at each end of the beach. The promenade was extended over the fill and opened in 1947,[94][69][65][95] Further improvements were made to the bathhouse pavilion in 1952 and to the northern jetty in 1955. A new concession stand was added north of the pavilion in 1962,[94] and a privately funded Golf driving range was also added that year.[96] The beach was renovated starting in 1964.[97]

In 1959, after the Rodman's Neck section of the park had been used for various purposes, the New York City Police Department used land from the park to create the Rodman's Neck Firing Range at the southern tip of the peninsula. Previously, the parkland at Rodman's Neck had been underused, with the NYPD and United States Army using the land at various times.[98][99]

1960s-present: Cleanup and restoration

The City began landfill operations on Tallapoosa Point in Pelham Bay Park in 1963.[100] Plans to expand the landfills in Pelham Bay Park in 1966, which would have created the City’s second-largest refuse disposal site next to Fresh Kills in Staten Island, were met with widespread community opposition.[100] The landfill expansion was seen as a way to alleviate the city's accumulations of waste, and Tallapoosa was seen as the only suitable location to put the landfill.[101] The preservation effort was headed by Dr. Theodore Kazimiroff, a Bronx historian and head of the Bronx Historical Society. It suffered setbacks in August 1967 when the New York City Board of Estimate voted against an initial effort to create to protected area in the proposed landfill expansion site.[102][103] However, the state and federal governments did not favor the landfill being located at Tallapoosa.[104] On October 11, 1967, Mayor John Lindsay signed a law authorizing in the creation of two wildlife refuges, the Thomas Pell Wildlife Sanctuary and the Hunter Island Marine Zoology and Geology Sanctuary, on the site where the landfill was planned to be expanded.[100] Tallapoosa West continued to be used as a landfill until May 1968, when the landfill permit was revoked.[101] In November of that year, Tallapoosa West was made a part of the Pell refuge.[105] The dump still existed as late as 1975, when the garbage there was described as being ten stories high.[106]

In 1983, the Theodore Kazimiroff Environmental Center was proposed for the park, alongside a nature trail that would wind through the park's terrain.[107] It would be named out of respect to the late historian,[107] who had died in 1980.[108] The Kazimiroff Nature Trail and the Pelham Bay Park Environmental Center opened in June 1986.[109][108][69] A $1 million renovation of the Orchard Beach pavilions (equivalent to $2,780,000 in 2023) was completed by 1986.[110] By the end of the decade, large numbers of human and animal remains were being dumped in Pelham Bay Park, including 65 human bodies that were dumped in the park from 1986 to 1995. Pelham Bay Park was also very dirty, and discarded trash from several decades prior was still visible.[111] NYPD officers on these cases theorized that the frequency of body dumpings might be attributable to two things: the park's remote location near highways, as well as a belief that the parkland is haunted by the remains of the Siwanoy buried there.[112]

In 1990, NYC Parks received a $6.3 million gift for improvements to Pelham Bay Park and twenty other parks around the city. NYC Parks used the money to renovate trails and clean up weeds.[113] A renovation of Orchard Beach started in 1995.[114] A water park for the beach was proposed, but ultimately canceled in 1999.[115] A few years later, as part of the city's ultimately unsuccessful bid for the 2012 Summer Olympics, several facilities in Pelham Bay Park were proposed for upgrades. The new facilities would have included a shooting center at Rodman's Neck; a 350-meter (1,150 ft) horseback riding track; and a fencing, swimming, and water polo facility in the Orchard Beach pavilion.[116] The bid ultimately was awarded to London instead.[117]

In 2010, construction began on extending the jetty at Orchard Beach at a cost of $13 million.[118][119] Soon after, work started on a $2.9 million project to restore Pelham Bay Park's shoreline, which entailed renovating the seawall, adding a dog run, and creating a new walking trail.[120] In 2012, Native American shell middens were found at Tallapoosa Point, prompting an archaeological investigation.[121] Further digs at the site uncovered more than a hundred artifacts, some of which dated to the third century CE. Work on the restoration project was paused in June 2015 as a result of the finds.[120][122] The restoration project was restarted in September 2015.[123]

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  91. ^ "TWO CITY BEACHES OPEN FOR SEASON; Jacob Riis Park, on the Ocean, Attracts 2,500--Few Bathers Brave the Chilly Water 3,000 AT ORCHARD BEACH At Least 1,000 Try Swimming in Long Island Sound--Joint Capacity of 500,000 NEW YORK OPENS TWO NEW RECREATIONAL AREAS TO PUBLIC". The New York Times. June 26, 1937. Retrieved September 4, 2017.
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  120. ^ a b Calder, Rich (2015-07-20). "Waterfront construction unearths more than 100 ancient artifacts". New York Post. Retrieved 2017-10-09.
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