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2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup

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2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup
OrganiserIFSC
Edition33rd
Events
11
  • 4 Boulder
    5 Lead
    2 Speed
Locations
8
Dates16 April – 4 September 2021
Lead
MenItaly Stefano Ghisolfi
WomenSlovenia Janja Garnbret
TeamSlovenia Slovenia
Boulder
MenJapan Yoshiyuki Ogata
WomenUnited States Natalia Grossman
TeamJapanJapan
Speed
MenIndonesia Veddriq Leonardo
WomenUnited States Emma Hunt
TeamIndonesia Indonesia
← 2020
2022 →

The 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup was the 33rd edition of the international sport climbing competition series, held in seven locations. There are 11 events: four bouldering, five lead, and two speed events. The season began on 16 April in Meiringen, Switzerland with the first bouldering competition in the season, and concluded on 4 September in Kranj, Slovenia. The International Federation of Sport Climbing had initially scheduled 18 events concluding on 31 October, but COVID-19 travel restrictions resulted in the cancellation of events in Xiamen and Wujiang in China, Jakarta in Indonesia and Seoul in South Korea.

This season was the first completed IFSC Climbing World Cup series since the 2019 edition, as the 2020 IFSC Climbing World Cup was limited to just one event, the Briançon Lead World Cup in August 2020, due to the pandemic. The opening event in Meiringen was the first Boulder World Cup since the 2019 season. The Boulder World Cup and the Boulder and Speed World Cup scheduled for 21–22 May and 28–30 May, respectively, in Salt Lake City, United States, were the first-ever consecutive IFSC World Cups held in the same city.[1]

The top 3 in each competition receive medals, and the overall winners are awarded trophies. At the end of the season an overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.

Season winners

Event First Second Third
Men's Lead Italy Stefano Ghisolfi 319 points United States Sean Bailey 277 points Japan Masahiro Higuchi 263 points
Women's Lead Slovenia Janja Garnbret 300 points United States Natalia Grossman 296 points Italy Laura Rogora 278 points
Men's Bouldering Japan Yoshiyuki Ogata 255 points Japan Kokoro Fujii 255 points Czech Republic Adam Ondra 200 points
Women's Bouldering United States Natalia Grossman 345 points Slovenia Janja Garnbret 280 points France Oriane Bertone 235 points
Men's Speed Indonesia Veddriq Leonardo 200 points Indonesia Kiromal Katibin 145 points Poland Marcin Dzieński 96 points
Women's Speed United States Emma Hunt 131 points Poland Patrycja Chudziak 120 points Poland Aleksandra Mirosław
Russia Ekaterina Barashchuk 		100 points

Scheduling

In December 2020, the IFSC moved the 21–22 May Boulder World Cup from Munich, Germany to Salt Lake City, United States, and rescheduled the already existing Boulder & Speed World Cup in Salt Lake City from 11–13 June to 28–30 May, in order to minimize travel for athletes and staff.[2] In March, the federation also moved the Seoul, South Korea and Wujiang, China World Cups from April and May to October because of ongoing COVID-19 related restrictions in the respective countries.[3] In July, the Lead World Cup in Ljubljana, Slovenia was moved to Kranj, Slovenia, and rescheduled from 4–5 to 3–4 September.[4]

In August, the federation cancelled the World Cups in China: the 15–17 October Lead & Speed World Cup in Xiamen and the 22–24 October Boulder & Speed World Cup in Wujiang.[5][6] In September, the federation also cancelled the 30–31 October Speed World Cup in Jakarta, Indonesia, which had already been postponed from 23 to 24 October.[7][8] The following week, the IFSC also cancelled the Boulder and Speed World Cup in Seoul, originally scheduled for May and pushed back to October, due to rising COVID-19 cases in South Korea. The cancellation of the Jakarta and Seoul World Cups mean the bouldering and speed seasons concluded in June in Innsbruck and Villars in July, respectively.[9]

Competition highlights

Because of the cancellations caused by the COVID-19 pandemic, the opening World Cup event of 2021 Meiringen held 16–17 April 2021, was the first Boulder World Cup in 22 months, since Vail, Colorado in September 2019.,[10] and the first Climbing World Cup of any discipline since August 2020 in Briançon. Adam Ondra won the men's gold, his 20th career World Cup medal, with 3 tops in the final.[11] On the women's side, Slovenia's Janja Garnbret continued her winning run from her unbeaten 2019 bouldering campaign, winning the competition by topping all boulders with just four falls while 16-year-old French climber Oriane Bertone made her senior competition debut with a second-place finish behind Garnbret.[10]

Garnbret did not participate in the first of two World Cups in Salt Lake City held 21–22 May, bringing her streak of seven Boulder World Cup wins to an end. In her absence, Grossman won the gold, followed by Bertone, who again finished second, while Ondra repeated as the men's Boulder winner.[12] Grossman repeated as the winner in the second Salt Lake City event, held 28–30 May, this time becoming the first woman to defeat Garnbret, who finished second, since April 2018.[13] In the men's speed competition, Kiromal Katibin of Indonesia set a world record time of 5.258 seconds in qualifying, a record that was broken the same day by fellow Indonesian, Veddriq Leonardo, who hit the buzzer at 5.20 in the final run against Katibin.[13]

Garnbret won all three Lead World Cups she entered in 2021, winning a record 31st World Cup gold medal in Kranj in September and taking the overall season title.[14] On the men's side, Stefano Ghisolfi took the Lead season title, having won the event in Briançon in addition to two second places at the World Cups in Innsbruck and Chamonix, while Sean Bailey's two wins in Villars and Chamonix earned him second place in the overall Lead season ranking.

Broadcast incident

Austrian broadcaster Osterreichischer Rundfunk (ORF) issued an apology during the Innsbruck World Cup, after showing slow-motion, close-up footage that zoomed on the chalk handprints on Johanna Färber's bottom on the event's live feed on YouTube. IFSC removed the video from its YouTube channel and replaced it a version without the footage. Färber later posted a message on her Instagram, calling the incident "disrespectful and upsetting"[15]

Overview

No. Location D G Gold Silver Bronze
1 Switzerland Meiringen, Switzerland
April, 16–18 		B M Czech Republic Adam Ondra 3T3z 10 7 Japan Yoshiyuki Ogata 2T4z 7 9 Japan Tomoaki Takata 1T4z 4 12
W Slovenia Janja Garnbret 4T4z 7 6 France Oriane Bertone 2T4z 8 10 United States Natalia Grossman 2T4z 10 10
2 United States Salt Lake City, United States
May, 21-22[Note 1] 		B M Czech Republic Adam Ondra 4T4z 8 7 France Mejdi Schalck 3T4z 4 5 Austria Jakob Schubert 3T3z 4 4
W United States Natalia Grossman 4T4z 15 14 France Oriane Bertone 3T4z 7 7 United States Brooke Raboutou 3T3z 4 3
3 United States Salt Lake City, United States
May, 28–30[Note 2] 		B M United States Sean Bailey 2T4z 9 11 Japan Kokoro Fujii 1T4z 9 12 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 1T3z 1 3
W United States Natalia Grossman 4T4z 4 4 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 4T4z 6 6 United States Brooke Raboutou 3T4z 5 8
S M Indonesia Veddriq Leonardo 5.208 Indonesia Kiromal Katibin fall Poland Marcin Dzieński 5.842
W Poland Aleksandra Mirosław 7.382 United States Emma Hunt 7.539 Japan Miho Nonaka 8.958
4 Austria Innsbruck, Austria
June, 23–26[Note 3] 		B M Japan Yoshiyuki Ogata 2T2z 7 7 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 1T3z 2 11 Japan Kokoro Fujii 1T1z 2 2
W Slovenia Janja Garnbret 3T3z 3 3 United States Natalia Grossman 3T3z 9 9 Serbia Staša Gejo 1T3z 2 6
L M Austria Jakob Schubert 47+ Italy Stefano Ghisolfi 47 Switzerland Sascha Lehman 38+
W Slovenia Janja Garnbret TOP United States Brooke Raboutou 40 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 38
5 Switzerland Villars, Switzerland
July, 1–3 		L M United States Sean Bailey 38 Germany Alexander Megos 35+ United States Colin Duffy 31+
W Slovenia Janja Garnbret TOP Italy Laura Rogora TOP United States Natalia Grossman 42+
S M Indonesia Veddriq Leonardo 5.329 Russia Dmitrii Timofeev 7.35 Indonesia Kiromal Katibin 5.306
W Russia Ekaterina Barashchuk 7.306 Russia Iuliia Kaplina 8.397 Poland Patrycja Chudziak 7.736
6 France Chamonix, France
July, 12–13 		L M United States Sean Bailey 34+ Italy Stefano Ghisolfi 32 Czech Republic Martin Stráník 32
W Italy Laura Rogora TOP United States Natalia Grossman 41+ Bulgaria Aleksandra Totkova 38+
7 France Briançon, France
July, 17–18 		L M Italy Stefano Ghisolfi 42+ Russia Dmitrii Fakirianov 39+ Czech Republic Martin Stráník 37+
W Czech Republic Eliška Adamovská 36 United States Natalia Grossman 35+ Slovenia Vita Lukan 29
8 Slovenia Kranj, Slovenia
September, 3–4[Note 4] 		L M Japan Masahiro Higuchi 37 Slovenia Luka Potočar 31+ Germany Sebastian Halenke 31+
W Slovenia Janja Garnbret 49+ South Korea Chaehyun Seo 46 United States Natalia Grossman 41+
  1. ^ Originally scheduled to be held in Munich, Germany.
  2. ^ Moved from 11–13 June.
  3. ^ Boulder finals suspended after three problems because of rainstorm.
  4. ^ Originally scheduled to be held in Ljubljana, Slovenia. Moved from 4–5 September.

[16]

Bouldering

Main article: Bouldering at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup

The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There were four competitions in the season. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed (in brackets) are not counted.

Men

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2021:[17]

Rank Name Points Meiringen Salt Lake City I Salt Lake City II Innsbruck
1 Japan Yoshiyuki Ogata 255 2. 80 16. 20 4. 55 1. 100
2 Japan Kokoro Fujii 255 4. 55 4. 55 2. 80 3. 65
3 Czech Republic Adam Ondra 200 1. 100 1. 100 ( — ) ( — )
4 United States Sean Bailey 166 13. 26 8. 40 1. 100 47. 0
5 France Mejdi Schalck 157 12. 28 2. 80 9. 37 20. 12
6 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 145 ( — ) ( — ) 3. 65 2. 80
7 United States Nathaniel Coleman 142 5. 51 21. 10 10. 34 6. 47
8 Austria Nicolai Užnik 132 14. 24 11. 31 15. 22 4. 55
9 Germany Alexander Megos 129 8. 40 9. 37 14. 24 12. 28
10 Belgium Simon Lorenzi 123.5 29. 1.5 7. 43 12. 28 5. 51

Women

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2021:[18]

Rank Name Points Meiringen Salt Lake City I Salt Lake City II Innsbruck
1 United States Natalia Grossman 345 3. 65 1. 100 1. 100 2. 80
2 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 280 1. 100 ( — ) 2. 80 1. 100
3 France Oriane Bertone 235 2. 80 2. 80 4. 55 16. 20
4 United States Brooke Raboutou 207 9. 37 3. 65 3. 65 8. 40
5 Japan Miho Nonaka 192 7. 43 4. 55 6. 47 6. 47
6 Serbia Staša Gejo 173 13. 26 11. 31 5. 51 3. 65
7 Slovenia Katja Debevec 158 6. 47 8. 40 7. 43 12. 28
8 Japan Futaba Ito 135 ( — ) 7. 43 9. 37 4. 55
9 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 122 4. 55 ( — ) 18. 16 5. 51
10 Japan Mao Nakamura 92 ( — ) 10. 34 14. 24 10. 34

National Teams

The results of the ten most successful countries of the Bouldering World Cup 2021:[19]

Country names as used by the IFSC

Rank Name Points Meiringen Salt Lake City I Salt Lake City II Innsbruck
1 Japan Japan 1235.0 2. 298.0 3. 231.0 2. 308.0 1. 398.0
2  United States 1088.0 3. 209.0 1. 265.0 1. 390.0 2. 224.0
3 Slovenia Slovenia 798.0 1. 312.0 5. 148.0 4. 168.0 3. 170.0
4  France 635.85 4. 156.6 2. 238.75 3. 177.0 8. 63.5
5 Austria Austria 498.25 7. 91.95 4. 204.0 10. 34.8 4. 167.5
6 Germany Germany 403.1 6. 93.5 6. 119.0 5. 108.0 5. 82.6
7 Belgium Belgium 215.55 12. 22.0 8. 69.55 7. 51.0 6. 73.0
8 Czech Republic Czech Republic 200.0 5. 100.0 7. 100.0 ( — ) ( — )
9 Italy Italy 190.6 11. 22.95 9. 66.0 9. 45.7 10. 55.95
10 Serbia Serbia 173.0 10. 26.0 11. 31.0 7. 51.0 7. 65.0

* = Joint place with another athlete

Lead

Further information: Lead climbing at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup

The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There were five competitions in the season. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed in parentheses are not counted.

Men

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2021:[20]

Rank NAME Points Innsbruck Villars Chamonix Briançon Kranj
1 Italy Stefano Ghisolfi 319 2. 80 11. 31 2. 80 1. 100 12. 28
2 United States Sean Bailey 277 ( — ) 1. 100 1. 100 4. 55 15. 22
3 Japan Masahiro Higuchi 263 4. 55 7. 43 9. 37 12. 28 1. 100
4 Slovenia Luka Potočar 212 7. 43 25. 6 7. 43 8. 40 2. 80
5 Switzerland Sascha Lehmann 204 3. 65 12. 28 4. 55 5. 51 26. 5
6 Czech Republic Martin Stráník 192.87 12. 28 32. 0.87 3. 65 3. 65 10. 34
7 Spain Alberto Ginés López 169 5. 51 5. 51 14. 24 7. 43 ( — )
8 Germany Sebastian Halenke 160.0 57. 0 4. 55 15. 22 17. 18 3. 65
9 Slovenia Domen Škofic 135 17. 18 15. 22 25. 6 10. 34 4. 55
10 Germany Alexander Megos 127 6. 47 2. 80 ( — ) ( — ) ( — )

Women

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2021:[21]

Rank NAME Points Innsbruck Villars Chamonix Briançon Kranj
1 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 300 1. 100 1. 100 ( — ) ( — ) 1. 100
2 United States Natalia Grossman 296 25. 6 3. 65 2. 80 2. 80 3. 65
3 Italy Laura Rogora 278 7. 43 2. 80 1. 100 ( — ) 4. 55
4 Slovenia Vita Lukan 269 6. 47 5. 51 4. 55 3. 65 5. 51
5 Slovenia Lucka Rakovec 185 8. 40 7. 43 23. 8 6. 47 6. 47
6 Bulgaria Aleksandra Totkova 168 18. 16 6. 47 3. 65 8. 40 ( — )
7 Czech Republic Eliška Adamovská 162 12. 28 ( — ) 10. 34 1. 100 ( — )
8 Japan Momoko Abe 146 13. 26 4. 55 11. 31 25. 6 12. 28
9 Japan Natsuki Tanii 128 ( — ) ( — ) 5. 51 9. 37 8. 40
9 Slovenia Lana Skusek 128 16. 20 11. 31 43. 0 7. 43 10. 34

National Teams

The results of the ten most successful countries of the Lead World Cup 2021:[22]

Country names as used by the IFSC

Rank Nation Points Innsbruck Villars Chamonix Briançon Kranj
1 Slovenia Slovenia 1244.0 2. 274.0 2. 229.0 5. 135.0 1. 230.0 1. 376.0
2 Japan Japan 1041.0 1. 279.0 3. 193.0 4. 158.0 5. 134.0 2. 277.0
3  United States 905.95 5. 110.55 1. 269.0 2. 237.0 2. 200.5 5. 88.9
4 Italy Italy 796.8 3. 149.75 6. 132.85 1. 244.5 4. 164.0 4. 105.7
5  France 593.95 8. 80.75 5. 147.2 3. 192.0 7. 87.0 6. 87.0
6 Germany Germany 547.2 10. 57.2 4. 159.0 7. 91.35 6. 95.85 3. 143.8
7 Czech Republic Czech Republic 396.55 7. 96.0 19. 0.9 6. 99.85 3. 165.8 13. 34.0
8 Austria Austria 364.25 4. 117.65 7. 71.75 13. 35.5 9. 77.75 8. 61.6
9 Switzerland Switzerland 340.15 6. 96.3 9. 50.4 8. 86.8 10. 70.95 12. 35.7
10 Russia Russia 262.55 9. 57.75 11. 41.8 12. 40.0 8. 80.0 11. 43.0

Speed

Main article: Speed climbing at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup

The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There were two competitions in the season. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed (in brackets) are not counted.

Men

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Speed World Cup 2021:[23]

Rank Name Points Salt Lake City Villars
1 Indonesia Veddriq Leonardo 200 1. 100 1. 100
2 Indonesia Kiromal Katibin 145 2. 80 3. 65
3 Poland Marcin Dzieński 96 3. 65 11. 31
4 United States John Brosler 81 4. 55 13. 26
5 Russia Dmitrii Timofeev 80 — 2. 80
6 France Pierre Rebreyend 59 7. 43 18. 16
7 Russia Vladislav Deulin 55 — 4. 55
8 United States Merritt Ernsberger 51 5. 51 —
8 Iran Mehdi Alipour 51 — 5. 51
10 Ukraine Yaroslav Tkach 50 8. 40 21. 10

Women

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Speed World Cup 2021:[24]

Rank Name Points Salt Lake City Villars
1 United States Emma Hunt 131 2. 80 5. 51
2 Poland Patrycja Chudziak 120 4. 55 3. 65
3 Poland Aleksandra Mirosław 100* 1. 100 —
3 Russia Ekaterina Barashchuk 100* — 1. 100
5 France Anouck Jaubert 94* 5. 51 7. 43
5 Poland Natalia Kalucka 94* 6. 47 6. 47
7 Russia Iuliia Kaplina 85 — 2. 80
8 France Capucine Viglione 74 8. 40 10. 34
9 Japan Miho Nonaka 65 3. 65 —
10 Indonesia Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi 55 — 4. 55

National Teams

The results of the ten most successful countries of the Speed World Cup 2021:[25]

Country names as used by the IFSC

Rank Nation Points Salt Lake City Villars
1 Indonesia Indonesia 503 4. 180.0 2. 323.0
2 Poland Poland 447 2. 267.0 3. 180.0
3  United States 396.8 1. 276.0 5. 120.8
4 Russia Russia 384 — 1. 384.0
5  France 340 3. 207.0 4. 133.0
6 Japan 140.55 5. 139.55 15. 1.0
7 Italy Italy 132.5 7. 75.0 7. 57.5
8 Ukraine Ukraine 130 6. 95.0 10. 35.0
9 Austria Austria 101.8 8. 63.9 9. 37.9
10 Germany 85.85 9. 63.0 12. 22.85

* = Joint place with another athlete

Medal table

RankNationGoldSilverBronzeTotal
1 United States (USA)55616
2 Slovenia (SLO)5218
3 Czech Republic (CZE)3025
4 Japan (JPN)23510
5 Italy (ITA)2305
6 Indonesia (INA)2114
7 Russia (RUS)1304
8 Poland (POL)1023
9 Austria (AUT)1012
10 France (FRA)0303
11 Germany (GER)0112
12 South Korea (KOR)0101
13 Bulgaria (BUL)0011
 Serbia (SER)0011
 Switzerland (SUI)0011
Totals (15 entries)22222266

See also

References

  1. ^ "BOTH IFSC WORLD CUP STAGES IN SALT LAKE CITY CONFIRMED" (Press release). IFSC. March 26, 2021.
  2. ^ Houston, Michael (29 December 2020). "Salt Lake City to host two IFSC World Cups in 2021". insidethegames.biz.
  3. ^ Houston, Michael (5 March 2021). "IFSC World Cups in China and South Korea postponed to October". insidethegames.biz.
  4. ^ "IFSC WORLD CUP SERIES SET TO RETURN TO KRANJ, SLOVENIA". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-12.
  5. ^ "Sport climbing World Cup events in China cancelled because of COVID-19". www.insidethegames.biz. 20 August 2021. Archived from the original on 2021-08-20. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  6. ^ "IFSC WORLD CUPS IN CHINA CANCELLED". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  7. ^ "IFSC SPEED WORLD CUP IN JAKARTA CANCELLED". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-12.
  8. ^ "IFSC Speed World Cup in Jakarta cancelled due to COVID-19". www.insidethegames.biz. 11 September 2021. Archived from the original on 2021-09-11. Retrieved 2021-09-12.
  9. ^ Burke, Patrick (20 September 2021). "IFSC World Cup in Seoul cancelled less than two weeks before event". inside the games. Retrieved 20 September 2021.
  10. ^ a b Berry, Natalie (19 April 2021). "IFSC Boulder World Cup Meiringen 2021: Report". UKC.
  11. ^ "Janja Garnbret, Adam Ondra win Bouldering World Cup opener in Meiringen". Planet Mountain. 19 April 2021.
  12. ^ Berry, Natalie (24 May 2021). "IFSC Boulder World Cup Salt Lake City 2021: Report". UKC. Retrieved 26 May 2021.
  13. ^ a b Berry, Natalie (31 May 2021). "IFSC Boulder and Speed World Cup Salt Lake City 2021 (Round 2): Report". UKC. Retrieved 1 June 2021.
  14. ^ Walker, Noah (6 September 2021). "Garnbret Becomes the Greatest Of All Time". Gripped. Retrieved 23 September 2021.
  15. ^ Rowbottom, Mike. ""Inappropriate" coverage row and rainstorms mar IFSC World Cup at Innsbruck". InsideTheGames. No. 26 June 2021. Retrieved 23 September 2021.
  16. ^ "The IFSC Presents Its 2021 Competition Calendar". GymClimber. 3 September 2020.
  17. ^ "IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2021 Men OVERALL Ranking".
  18. ^ "IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2021 Women OVERALL Ranking".
  19. ^ "IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2021: BOULDERING NATIONAL TEAM RANKING". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original on 2021-09-25. Retrieved 2021-09-25.
  20. ^ "IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2021: LEAD MEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original on 2021-07-09. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  21. ^ "IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2021: LEAD WOMEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original on 2021-09-05. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  22. ^ "IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2021: LEAD NATIONAL TEAM RANKING". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  23. ^ "IFSC Speed World Cup 2021 Men OVERALL Ranking".
  24. ^ "IFSC Speed World Cup 2021 Women OVERALL Ranking".
  25. ^ "IFSC SPEED WORLD CUP 2021: NATIONAL TEAM RANKING". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-07-04.
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