Adam Ondra

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Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra by PAVEL BLAZEK 2.jpg
Adam Ondra in Norway, the day after climbing Silence, the world's hardest route
Personal information
Nationality Czech Republic
Born (1993-02-05) February 5, 1993 (age 25)
Brno, Czech Republic
Residence Brno
Education student, Masaryk University
Occupation Professional rock climber
Height 185 cm (6 ft 1 in)
Weight 68 kg (150 lb)
Website www.adamondra.com
Climbing career
Type of climber Lead climbing and Bouldering
Highest grade
Known for Being the first person to climb 9b+ and 9c routes and the only person to win both Lead and Bouldering World Cups and Championships
Updated on November 30, 2017.
Ondra climbing Silence, 9c (5.15d), in 2017
Ondra in 2009 at Imst

Adam Ondra (born February 5, 1993) is a Czech professional rock climber, specialising in lead climbing and bouldering. Described in 2013 as a prodigy and the leading climber of his generation,[1] Ondra is the only athlete to date to have won the World Championships in both disciplines, during the 2014 edition. He holds an analogous record in the World Cup, being the sole athlete to have won in both lead (2009) and bouldering (2010).

Ondra started climbing at age 6, and by the time he was 13 years old had already climbed a route rated at 5.14d. Rock and Ice magazine states that by 2011, Ondra was "onsighting 5.14c’s by the handful", and by 2013 had "more or less repeated every hard route in the world—easily".[1] As of February 2018, Ondra is the only climber to have redpointed a route with a proposed grade of 9c (5.15d) (Silence, September 3, 2017),[2]. Ondra climbed 1491 routes between grades 8a (5.13b) and 9c (5.15d), of which 1 was at 9c (5.15d), 3 were at 9b+ (5.15c) and 3 were onsights at 9a (5.14d).[3]

Ondra is also the first climber to have redpointed a route with a proposed grade of 9c (5.15d) (Silence, September 3, 2017) and 9b+ (5.15c) (Change, October 4, 2012),[4], the first to flash a 9a+ (5.15a) route (Supercrackinette, February 10, 2018), and the second to have onsighted a 9a (5.14d) route (Cabane au Canada, July 9, 2013).[5] According to The Economist Ondra is "regarded as possibly the best climber ever to fondle rock".[6]

Biography[edit]

Adam Ondra at the IFSC Lead Worldcup Imst 2009

Ondra started climbing at the age of six; his parents are climbers and they shared their passion with him.

In 1999 (at age six) at Rovinj in Croatia Ondra easily climbed a 6a (5.10a) route with bolts every half meter. But soon he became famous in climbing magazines, as his achievements quickly grew more and more notable:

  • In 2001 (at age eight) he onsighted 7b+ (5.12c) routes.
  • In 2002 (at age nine) he onsighted 7c+ (5.13a) and redpointed 8a (5.13b).
  • In 2003 (at age ten) he onsighted 8a (5.13b).
  • In 2004 (at age eleven) he onsighted 8a+ (5.13c)[7] and redpointed 8c (5.14b).
  • In 2005 (at age twelve) he onsighted 8b (5.13d).
  • In 2006 (at age thirteen) he managed to redpoint his first 9a (5.14d), Martin Krpan at Misja Pec.

In 2007 and 2008 he won the IFSC Youth World Championship, category Youth B.

In 2009, at age sixteen, Ondra competed for the first time in the Lead Climbing World Cup, winning ahead of Spanish Patxi Usobiaga and Japanese Sachi Amma.[8]

In 2010 he also won the Bouldering World Cup, ahead of Austrian Kilian Fischhuber and Japanese Tsukuru Hori, and becoming the first athlete in history to win both the disciplines (lead and bouldering).[9]

On March 2011, during a trip in Spain, Ondra became the second person ever to have onsighted 8c+ (5.14c) after Patxi Usobiaga. In only a few days he onsighted five 8c+ (5.14c) routes (two of which on the same day).[10]

On October 4, 2012, Ondra sent Change, in the Hanshelleren Cave, Flatanger, Norway. It was the first route to receive a proposed grade of 9b+ (5.15c).[4][11]

On October 29, 2012, Ondra flashed one of the Red River Gorge's hardest routes, Southern Smoke Direct 9a+ (5.15a), suggesting the grade of 9a (5.14d).[12][13] On November 1, he onsighted Pure Imagination and The Golden Ticket, both 9a, suggesting the grade of 8c+.[14]

On February 7, 2013, Ondra sent La Dura Dura, in Oliana, Catalonia, Spain, his second 9b+ (5.15c) after Change. He worked on this project with Chris Sharma and the first ascent took Ondra nine weeks of work.[15]

On February 9, 2013, just two days after La Dura Dura, Ondra succeeded in the second ascent of the 9b (5.15b) Fight or flight, first climbed by Sharma in 2011.[16]

On July 9, 2013, Ondra realized the second 9a (5.14d) onsight in history after Alexander Megos, with the ascent of Cabane au Canada in Rawyl, Switzerland.[5]

On November 21, 2016, Ondra completed the second free ascent of The Dawn Wall, a 5.14d (9a) multi-pitch route at El Capitan in Yosemite Valley, California. The route is widely regarded as the hardest big wall in the world. Ondra was also the first person to lead every pitch.[17] The first free ascent was completed by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson in January 2015.

On April 23, 2017, he set a new highpoint of the Black Diamond Project in Stockholm, Sweden. Believed to be the hardest indoor sport route in the world.

On September 3, 2017, after about 4 years of trials,[2] Ondra climbed Silence, in the Hanshelleren Cave (Flatanger, Norway). At that point, the route was unclimbed and widely considered to be the most difficult project in the world, together with Le blond, a route which is still unclimbed, bolted by Chris Sharma in Oliana (ESP). Silence was the first route to receive a proposed grade of 9c (5.15d). The route was previously known as Project Hard.

On February 10, 2018, Ondra realized the first flash of a confirmed 9a+ route with his ascent of Super Crackinette in Saint-Léger du Ventoux, France. The route was first climbed by Alexander Megos after 3 days of work in 2016.[18]

Adam Ondra at the IFSC Boulder Worldcup Vienna 2010

Rankings[edit]

Climbing World Cup[19][edit]

Discipline 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017
Lead 1 3 57 - 11 3 1 23 27
Bouldering 15 1 - - - 24 3 - -
Speed - - - - - - - - -
Combined 1 1 - - - 2 1 - 65

Climbing World Championships[edit]

Youth[20]

Discipline 2007
Youth B
2008
Youth B
2009
Youth A
Lead 1 1 1

Adult[20]

Discipline 2009 2011 2012 2014 2016
Lead 2 3 3 1 1
Bouldering - 2 - 1 2
Speed - 70 - - -

Climbing European Championships[20][edit]

Discipline 2010 2013 2015 2017
Lead 2 - 2 2
Bouldering 2 - 2 -

Rock Master[edit]

Discipline 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016
Lead 3 3 5 -
Duel 1 2 - 1 1
KO Boulder - - - - - - - 1

Number of medals in the Climbing European Youth Cup[edit]

Lead[20][edit]

Season Category Gold Silver Bronze Total
2007 Youth B 5 5
2008 Youth B 5 5
Total 10 0 0 10

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup[edit]

Lead[20][edit]

Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
2009 4 4
2010 1 1 1 3
2013 1 1 2
2014 3 3
2015 2 2 4
2016 0
2017 1 1
Total 11 5 1 17

Bouldering[20][edit]

Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
2009 1 1
2010 3 2 5
2014 1 1
2015 2 2
Total 3 3 3 9

Single-pitch routes[edit]

The table below shows the impressively large number of routes graded 8a (5.13b) or more ascended by Adam Ondra in about 16 years, from August 2, 2002 (when he redpointed his first 8a) to February 28, 2018.[3] The total number is 1491, of which 1 was at 9c (5.15d) and 699 were onsights, including 3 onsights at 9a (5.14d).[3]

Number of ascended routes
Grade Redpoint Flash On-sight Total
9c (5.15d) 1 1
9b+ (5.15c) 3 3
9b (5.15b) 19 19
9a+ (5.15a) 36 1 37
9a (5.14d) 95 2 3 100
8c+ (5.14c) 119 1 18 138
8c (5.14b) 105 1 59 165
8b+ (5.14a) 93 3 78 174
8b (5.13d) 106 18 138 262
8a+ (5.13c) 77 15 203 295
8a (5.13b) 64 35 201 300
Total 718 76 699 1494

Redpoint[edit]

9c (5.15d):

9b+ (5.15c):

  • Vasil Vasil - Sloup (CZE) - December 4, 2013 - First ascent
  • La Dura Dura - Oliana (ESP) - February 7, 2013 - First ascent[15]
  • Change - Flatanger (NOR) - October 4, 2012 - First ascent and world's first 9b+[4] (The grade has to be confirmed)

9b (5.15b):

  • Disbelief - Acephale (CAN) - July 20, 2018 - First ascent [28]
  • Eagle-4 - St. Léger (FRA) - February 13, 2018 - First ascent
  • One Slap - Arco (ITA) - November 13, 2017 - First ascent
  • Move Hard - Flatanger (NOR) - July 10, 2017 - First ascent (link-up of two neighboring routes; through first crux of Move into second crux of Silence, at the time known as Project Hard)
  • Lapsus - Andonno (ITA) - April 20, 2017 - Second ascent [29]
  • Queen Line - Laghel (Arco, Trentino, ITA) - April 19, 2017 - First ascent [30]
  • Mamichula - Oliana (ESP) - February 8, 2017 - First ascent [31]
  • Robin Ud - Alternativna stena (SVK) - October 5, 2016 - First ascent[32]
  • C.R.S. - Mollans sur Ouvèze (FRA) - November 2, 2015 - First ascent
  • First Round First Minute - Margalef (ESP) - February 3, 2014 - Second ascent of Chris Sharma's route
  • Move - Flatanger (NOR) - August 20, 2013 - First ascent, Ondra graded the route 9b/+
  • Iron Curtain - Flatanger (NOR) - August 3, 2013 - First ascent
  • Fight or flight - Oliana (ESP) - February 9, 2013 - Second ascent of Chris Sharma's route (2011)[16]
  • La planta de Shiva - Villanueva del Rosario (ESP) - April 22, 2011 - First ascent[33]
  • Chilam Balam - Villanueva del Rosario (ESP) - April 13, 2011 - Second ascent (however Bernabe Fernandez's first ascent is not confirmed)[34]
  • Chaxi Raxi - Oliana (ESP) - March 27, 2011 - First ascent of Chaxi direct start[35]
  • La Capella - Siurana (ESP) - February 16, 2011 - First ascent[36]
  • Golpe de Estado - Siurana (ESP) - March 13, 2010 - Second ascent of Chris Sharma's route (2008)[37]

9a+ (5.15a):

  • Sacrifice - Echo Canyon (CAN) - July 23, 2018 - First ascent
  • Stone Butterfly - Herculane (ROM) - May 15, 2018 - First ascent
  • Underground Dreaming - Arco (ITA) - February 24, 2018 - First ascent
  • Naturalmente - Camaiore (ITA) - April 21, 2017 - First ascent[38]
  • Ultimatum - Massone (Arco, Trentino, (ITA) - April 19, 2017 - 3rd ascent [30]
  • Predator - Czech karst (CZE) - November 19, 2015 - First ascent, the hardest route in Bohemia[39]
  • Three Degrees of Separation - Céüse (FRA) - July 27, 2015 - Second ascent of Chris Sharma's route (2007)
  • Realization - Céüse (FRA) - July 22, 2014 - Tenth ascent
  • Ini Ameriketan - Baltzola (ESP) - May 9,, 2014
  • Hell Racer - Hell (NOR) - September 22, 2013 - First ascent
  • Kangaroo's Limb - Flatanger (NOR) - September 21, 2013 - First ascent
  • Torture Physique Integrale - Gastlosen (CHE) - July 7, 2013 - First ascent
  • Power Inverter - Oliana (ESP) - January 25, 2013 - Second ascent of Chris Sharma's route (2010)
  • Thor's Hammer - Flatanger (NOR) - July 8, 2012 - First ascent (now downgraded to 9a)
  • Jungle Boogie - Céüse (FRA) - June 7, 2012 - First ascent[40]
  • Perlorodka - Holstejn (Moravsky Kras, CZE) - September 6, 2011 - First ascent
  • Overshadow - Malham Cove (GBR) - May 16, 2011 - Second ascent of Steve McClure's route[41]
  • Chaxi - Oliana (ESP) - March 21, 2011 - First ascent of Chris Sharma's project
  • Obrint el sistema - Santa Ana (ESP) - March 14, 2011 - First ascent of Daniel Andrada's project[42]
  • L'étrange ivresse des lenteurs - Céüse (FRA) - September 4, 2010 - First ascent[43]
  • Goldrake - Cornalba (ITA) - April 6, 2010 - First ascent[44]
  • Marina Superstar - Domusnovas (ITA) - October 20, 2009 - First ascent[45]
  • Corona - Frankenjura (DEU) - June 7, 2009 - Second ascent of Markus Bock's route (2006)[46]
  • Papichulo - Oliana (ESP) - February 24, 2009 - Second ascent of Chris Sharma's route (2008)[47]
  • Open Air - Schleierwasserfall (AUT) - November 17, 2008 - Second ascent of Alexander Huber's route (1996)[48]
  • La Rambla - Siurana (ESP) - February 10, 2008 - Sixth ascent[49]

On-sight[edit]

9a (5.14d):

  • TCT - Gravere (ITA) - July 11, 2014
  • Il Domani - Baltzola (ESP) - May 3, 2014
  • Cabane au Canada - Rawyl (CHE) - July 9, 2013 - Second 9a onsight in history[5]

8c+ (5.14c):

  • C'est la vie - Alternativna stena (SVK) - October 5, 2016[50]
  • Super Plafond - Volx (FRA) - July 6, 2014
  • Chambao - Baltzola (ESP) - May 7, 2013[51]
  • Pure Imagination - Red River Gorge (USA) - November 1, 2012
  • Golden Ticket - Red River Gorge (USA) - November 1, 2012
  • Muy Verdes - Flatanger (NOR) - July 11, 2012
  • Eye of Odin - Flatanger (NOR) - July 8, 2012
  • Deltaplane Man Direct - Entraygues (FRA) - May 31, 2012
  • Bella Regis - Bus De Vela (ITA) - April 7, 2012[52]
  • L'Avaro - Tetto di Sarre (ITA) - July 13, 2011[53]
  • La Rubia - Villanueva del Rosario (ESP) - April 13, 2011
  • Blanquita - Oliana (ESP) - March 27, 2011[54]
  • Mind Control - Oliana (ESP) - March 20, 2011[55]
  • Powerade - Vadiello (ESP) - March 9, 2011[56]
  • Bizi Euskaraz - Etxauri (ESP) - March 7, 2011[57]
  • Kidetasunaren balio erantsia - Etxauri (ESP) - March 6, 2011 - Second 8c+ onsight in history after route by Patxi Usobiaga in 2007[58]

8c (5.14b):

  • Aktion Talon - Höllental (AUT) - June 29, 2013
  • Into the Wild - Jaén (ESP) - March 16, 2013
  • Terapia de Grito - Cuenca (ESP) - February 13, 2013
  • El Calvario del Sicario - Cuenca (ESP) - February 10, 2013
  • Nordic Flower - Flatanger (NOR) - July 9, 2012
  • Scoglio de Capri - Bus De Vela (ITA) - April 7, 2012
  • Iluzija - Kotecnik (SLO) - April 5, 2012
  • 5 Uve - Arco (ITA) - June 27, 2011
  • Bat Route - Malham Cove (GBR) - May 16, 2011
  • Carbunco - Archidona (ESP) - April 23, 2011
  • Kalliste - Archidona (ESP) - April 23, 2011
  • Fuck the police - Etxauri (ESP) - March 6, 2011
  • Dures Limites - Céüse (FRA) - August 10, 2010[59]
  • Smoke - Pierrot beach (FRA) - August 5, 2010
  • Home Sweet Home - Pierrot beach (FRA) - August 5, 2010
  • Guère d'usure - Claret (FRA) - January 29, 2010[60]
  • Super Samson - Claret (FRA) - January 29, 2010[60]
  • Gora Guta Gutarak - Kalymnos (GRC) - May 22, 2009[61]
  • Una Vida Nomada - Covolo (ITA) - April 21, 2009[62]
  • Nagay - Covolo (ITA) - April 21, 2009[62]
  • L'espiadimondis - Margalef (ESP) - March 2, 2009
  • Los Humildes Pa Casa - Oliana (ESP) - February 24, 2009
  • Métaphysique Des Tubes - Seynes (FRA) - February 21, 2009
  • Absinth - Sparchen (AUT) - August 16, 2008
  • Rollito Sharma Extension - Santa Linya (ESP) - February 7, 2008
  • Digital System - Santa Linya (ESP) - February 5, 2008

Boulder problems[edit]

Ondra won the bouldering gathering Melloblocco in 2008,[63] 2009[64] 2010[65] and 2011.[66]

He climbed 291 boulder problems between 8A (V11) and 8C+ (V16).[67] Namely:

  • 2 8C+/V16
  • 10 8C/V15
  • 31 8B+/V14
  • 57 8B/V13
  • 76 8A+/V12
  • 115 8A/V11

8C+ (V16):

8C (V15):

  • Cháron - Petrohrad (Mlýnský vrch, (CZE) - October 15, 2011 - First ascent[70]
  • Practice of the Wild - Magic Wood (CHE) - October 1, 2011 - Chris Sharma's boulder (2004)
  • Pata ledovce - Holstejn (Moravsky Kras, CZE) - September 6, 2011 - First ascent[71]
  • Monkey Wedding - Rocklands (Cederberg mountains, ZAF) - August 14, 2011 - Third ascent of Fred Nicole's boulder (2002)
  • From The Dirt Grows the Flowers - Chironico (CHE) - November 30, 2010 - Dave Graham's boulder (2005)[72]
  • Big Paw - Chironico (CHE) - November 29, 2010 - Third ascent of Dave Graham's boulder (2008)[73]

Multi-pitch routes[edit]

Karambony East Face - Tough Enough route runs in the middle
  • The Dawn Wall - El Capitan (USA) - 3,000 feet (915 meters) tall - 32 pitches, at least two of which graded 9a (5.14d). Described as the hardest big wall in the world.
January 14, 2015 - Redpointed by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson in 19 days, after 7 years of practicing.[74][75]
November 21, 2016 - Redpointed by Adam Ondra in only 8 days, after a few weeks of practicing.[76]
  • Mora Mora - Tsaranoro Atsimo (MDG) - October 10, 2010 - First free ascent
  • Bravo Les Filles - Tsaranoro Kelly (MDG) - October 7, 2010
  • Tough Enough Original - Karambony (MDG) - October 4, 2010 - First free ascent[77]
  • Tough Enough - Karambony (MDG) - September 30, 2010 - First free ascent[78]
  • Hotel Supramonte - Gole di Gorroppu (ITA) - October 18, 2008 - First onsight ascent[79]
  • Ali Baba - Paroi Derobée (Aiglun, FRA) - 2008 - Second ascent[80]
  • WoGü - Rätikon (CHE) - July 26, 2008 - First free ascent of Beat Kammerlander's route (1997)[81]
  • Zub za zub - Rätikon (CHE) - July 29, 2007 - First free ascent[82]
  • Silbergeier - Rätikon (CHE) - July 27, 2007[83]

Filmography[edit]

  • The Wizard's Apprentice - 2012 - Directed by Petr Pavlíček - Produced by Bernartwood - 110'[84]
  • La Dura Complete: The Hardest Rock Climb In The World - 2014 - Part of Reel Rock 7 by Big Up Productions[85]
  • Change - 2014 - Directed by Petr Pavlíček - Produced by Bernartwood - [86]

Awards[edit]

See also[edit]

References[edit]

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  2. ^ a b c "Adam Ondra climbs world's first 9c at Flatanger in Norway". 
  3. ^ a b c Ondra, Adam. "List of climbed routes". 8a.nu. Retrieved November 27, 2017. 
  4. ^ a b c Dougald MacDonald (4 October 2012). "Adam Ondra Climbs 5.15c in Norway". Climbing. Retrieved 7 October 2012. 
  5. ^ a b c Björn Pohl (9 July 2013). "La cabane au Canada, 9a, onsight by Ondra". ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 10 July 2013. 
  6. ^ "Climbing without ropes: A series of remarkable feats increases the appeal of a niche sport". The Economist. June 8, 2017. Retrieved June 9, 2017. 
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  38. ^ "Instagram post by Adam Ondra • Apr 22, 2017 at 4:23am UTC". Instagram. Retrieved 2017-04-22. 
  39. ^ Lezec.cz: Adam - Predator 9a+
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External links[edit]