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Vogue Italia

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Vogue Italia
30th Anniversary (October 1994) cover
Head of Editorial ContentFrancesca Ragazzi
CategoriesFashion
FrequencyMonthly
Circulation100,000 (2017)[1]
PublisherCondé Nast
Founded1965; 59 years ago (1965)[2]
CompanyVogue Italia
CountryItaly
Based inMilan
LanguageItalian
Websitevogue.it/en

Vogue Italia is the Italian edition of Vogue magazine owned by Condé Nast International. In publication since 1964, it has been called the top fashion magazine in the world.[3]

Name

Vogue Italia was first published as Novità ("Novelties") in October 1964 until November 1965, when the name was changed to Vogue & Novità; in May 1966 the title was changed to Vogue Italia, its title to the present day.

History

1961–1964: early years

In 1961, Condé Nast contacted the owner of Novità magazine to invest in a new fashion magazine. From October 1964 until November 1965, the magazine was published as Novità.[4]

1965–1988: from Vogue & Novità to Vogue Italia

In 1965, after 73 years since the birth of Vogue, Vogue Italia was launched, as Vogue & Novità, being the first issue for the month of November 1965. Consuelo Crespi (1928–2010) lead the launch until 1966.[5][6]

In 1966, Franco Sartori was appointed as the first editor-in-chief and under his leadership he changed the name from Vogue & Novità to Vogue Italia, being the May 1966 issue the first issue under the new name. He held the position for 22 years until 1988.[7]

1988–2016: Franca Sozzani years

In 1988, Franca Sozzani (1950–2016) became the second editor-in-chief for the publication, with the July/August 1988 issue her first.[6] Before editing Vogue Italia, Sozzani worked as editor for Vogue Bambini, and as editor-in-chief for Lei and subsequently for Per Lui, the men's edition of the former. After seeking new possibilities, the Italian journalist accepted the offer to edit Vogue Italia.[8]

In July 2008, Sozzani released the all-black issue, featuring only black models in the whole issue.[9]

The exclusive pictures of Ethel Granger, the woman with the smallest waist ever. Her fixation for corsets has inspired Vogue Italia's September 2011 Issue.[10]

On 22 December 2016 Franca Sozzani died at the age of 66.[11]

2017–present: Emanuele Farneti years and re-structure

On 20 January 2017, it was officially announced by Jonathan Newhouse, CEO of Condé Nast International, that Emanuele Farneti would be the new editor-in-chief of Vogue Italia and L'Uomo Vogue. Farneti was the director of eight different magazines, being the latest GQ Italia.[12]

In July 2017, it was announced that Condé Nast Italia will fold L'Uomo Vogue, Vogue Accessory, Vogue Bambini and Vogue Sposa, in order to focus on top brands, such as Vogue Italia, GQ, among others.[13]

A year later, Farneti relaunched L'Uomo Vogue as a biannual publication. In July 2021, it was announced that Emanuele will leave the magazine after the September issue of the same year.[14]

On early September 2021, it was confirmed that the magazine will no longer feature an editor-in-chief after Farneti's departure, but will be locally guided by a head of editorial content, a position assigned to former fashion market director Francesca Ragazzi. In her new role, Ragazzi will report to Anna Wintour but also to Vogue European editorial director Edward Enninful.[15]

Content

Vogue Italia and the Italian fashion industry have historically had a symbiotic relationship, with Vogue Italia contributing to Milan's prominence in the fashion world.[citation needed]

Recent influential editorials have included Steven Meisel's September 2006 "State of Emergency", a visual play on the War on Terror,[16] and Meisel's July 2007 "Rehab", addressing recent celebrity visits to rehab clinics.[17][18] and the August 2010 Issue, featuring Kristen McMenamy, shooting on the site of the BP Oil Spill in the Gulf of Mexico.[19]

Remix Contest

Vogue Italia hosts an annual 'Remix Contest', in association with the International Fur Federation, to provide a platform of up-and-coming designers. The contest was first launched in 2014. In 2019, Netherlands-born designer Berivan Cemal [20] won the award, and the judging panel included Vogue Talents Sara Sozzani Maino; Expert of Fur Sustainability Samantha De Reviziis: Italian designer Gabriele Colangelo; and Filipino fashion influencer Bryanboy.

All Black issue

The July 2008 issue featured only black models, photographed by Steven Meisel[21] and the articles pertained to black women in the arts and entertainment.[22] The magazine claimed to showcase black models in response to anger caused by the disinclination of fashion magazines to display black models on their covers. Fashion industry insiders claim black models are featured less often because they are unable to sell. This statement, along with the formation of a protest group in New York City that challenges racism in the industry, convinced Italian Vogue's editor, Franca Sozzani to create this issue.[23] Instead of the issue not selling, it became the highest selling issue of Italian Vogue ever, and had run out of print twice, which marked the first time in Condé Nast history that the magazine reprinted an issue to satisfy demand.[24] The reprinted copies had the tag lines "Most Wanted Issue Ever" and "First Reprint" banded across the front.[25]

However, even though the advertising pages went up 30 percent, there was a "glaring lack of black models" in them. Meisel said: "I've asked my advertising clients so many times, 'Can we use a black girl?' They say no. Advertisers say black models don't sell."[24][25]

VogueEncyclo

VogueEncyclo is a fashion encyclopedia founded by Vogue Italia (Condé Nast Digital).[26][27] It went live on 10 October 2011. It has an archive with topics ranging from A–Z: fashion and costume, designers, photography, cinema, people, mania, bloggers, fabrics and architecture. Anyone is free to participate, all articles have bylines and Vogue staff reviews all submissions.

The whole of the content is accessible in either English or Italian.[28]

See also

References

  1. ^ Friedman, Vanessa (September 20, 2017). "At Italian Vogue, a New Beginning". The New York Times – via NYTimes.com.
  2. ^ "Vogue Italia". Condé Nast International.
  3. ^ Press, Debbie (2004). Your Modeling Career: You Don't Have to Be a Superstar to Succeed. New York: Allworth Press. ISBN 978-1-58115-359-0.
  4. ^ "Fashion's A-List Fetes Vogue Italia Archive Milan". NOWFASHION. 22 September 2014. Retrieved 9 January 2017.
  5. ^ "Condé Nast International | Italy | Vogue". www.condenastinternational.com. Retrieved 9 January 2017.
  6. ^ a b "Look through and comment the first issue of Vogue Italia out in November 1965 and the July 1988 issue, the very first I was editor-in-chief of - Vogue.it". Retrieved 9 January 2017.
  7. ^ "The legend of Vogue Italia". Lombardia Secrets. April 6, 2021.
  8. ^ Horwell, Veronica (28 December 2016). "Franca Sozzani obituary". The Guardian. ISSN 0261-3077. Retrieved 9 January 2017.
  9. ^ "Vogue: all white now?". The Guardian. 31 July 2008. ISSN 0261-3077. Retrieved 23 January 2017.
  10. ^ vogue.it: Ethel Granger 1 September 2011
  11. ^ "Vogue Italia director Franca Sozzani dies aged 66". ABC. 22 December 2016. Retrieved 16 February 2017.
  12. ^ "Emanuele Farneti is the new Editor in Chief of Vogue Italia". Vogue.it (in Italian). 20 January 2017. Retrieved 23 January 2017.
  13. ^ "Condé Nast Italia to Focus on 'Top Brands' as L'Uomo Vogue Closes". The Business of Fashion. 2017-07-31. Retrieved 2018-01-12.
  14. ^ "Vogue Italia Editor Emanuele Farneti Exits Amid Consolidation". The Business of Fashion. 2021-07-22. Retrieved 2021-09-07.
  15. ^ "Condé Nast Names Vogue Italia Head of Editorial Content". finance.yahoo.com. Retrieved 2021-09-07.
  16. ^ Joanna Bourke (12 September 2006). "A taste for torture?". The Guardian. Retrieved 26 November 2011.
  17. ^ Huntington, Patty (17 August 2007). "Rapid detox: Meisel's Girls, Interrupted push rehab chic". Blogs. Archived from the original on 11 February 2012. Retrieved 26 November 2011.
  18. ^ "'A fun take on rehab chic' – brave or sick?". The Times. 16 August 2007. Retrieved 26 November 2011.
  19. ^ "Health | Yahoo Lifestyle". www.yahoo.com. Archived from the original on September 4, 2010.
  20. ^ Carrera, Martino (2019-02-25). "International Fur Federation Toasts Winners of Remix Fur Contest". WWD. Retrieved 2020-11-10.
  21. ^ (in Italian)The Black Issue The July 2008 «Vogue Italia» special issue. Retrieved 24 July 2010.
  22. ^ Horyn, Cathy (18 June 2008). "Beauty and Soul". NY Times. Archived from the original on 20 July 2012. Retrieved 1 July 2008.
  23. ^ Lucy Cockcroft (20 June 2008). "Italian Vogue shows black models only". Telegraph. Retrieved 1 July 2008.
  24. ^ a b "Italian Vogue's "Black Issue" Goes Into Reprints". Glossed Over. 23 July 2008. Archived from the original on 13 January 2012. Retrieved 26 November 2011.
  25. ^ a b Stableford, Dylan (21 July 2008). "'All-Black' Italian Vogue White Hot at the Newsstand". Foliomag. Retrieved 26 November 2011.
  26. ^ Oliver, Simone S. (November 2, 2011). "Vogue Encyclo Is Looking for Contributors". The New York Times. Retrieved 22 March 2013.
  27. ^ Martens, Cynthia (October 17, 2011). "Franca Sozzani's Vogue Encyclo Launches". Women's Wear Daily. Retrieved 22 March 2013.
  28. ^ Martens, Cynthia (17 October 2011). "Franca Sozzani's Vogue Encyclo Launches". WWD. Retrieved 22 March 2013.
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